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@@stevenmorgan8085 the h5151 it comes in a 3pack of sensors.

My guess is that it’s a combination of where the sensors are located (inside the case) the materials the sensors are attached to and surrounded by and the limited air flow through the case. Until the materials around the sensors acclimate to the ambient air temperature they will be influencing the readings.

The dealer also could not successfully keep a connection to the old computer in the Jeep in this video. Since the other devices are working it seems like it could be the connection at the computer. Those are known to develop corrosion and what I ultimately think the issue was with the old computer I had. There are a few TH-camrs that have videos on diagnosing and fixing those connections. The bigger issue is getting the potting compound off so you can reflow the solder joints . If you’re not getting voltage at the sensors it could also be the voltage regulator ( also in the pcm if I remember correctly correctly) I’d still recommend checking though everything especially the grounds. Bad grounds cause really odd symptoms

Well, mark here, one ask forum said check the crank position sensor. It took a while to get the small cover on the trans tunnel by the foot duct.. then try to unplug the cps lead and it was dam near impossible but the connection was restored and the problem was solved. Key light gone. Engine started and stayd running.

@@Mark-xo9sn that’s great news!! Glad it’s working now and thank you for adding your knowledge to the posts.

@@igliumagallanes7238 thats frustrating that it’s still not starting. As long as your skim was was never plugged into the new computer then I would think that you would be fine as far as the computer goes. Perhaps give a computer resource a call and confirm the skim delete. Check the basics fuel spark air ground straps.

@@randyabbonizio6216 Thanks! Yes I used a 10mm on the battery terminals

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Thx sir!

@@justinpeterson9734 thanks for the feedback I’ll be getting into ash trees in the not to distant future. I’d like to find a Husky 395 or maybe a clone but if I get another clone say the g888 looks interesting. Not sure that will be this year though.

I appreciate the comment I may just do that. from what I can find online this is from the saw getting too hot and running to lean or air leaks. Thankfully pats for these saws are abundant and inexpensive.

Parts are abundant. Buy from reputable after market sources. The cheapest parts are junk ie ebay, amazon from no name suppliers but there is a lot suppliers in the middle of the after market that are good. Get a IPL for the saw so you can find part # numbers. Helps you find the right parts. Group your parts to save on shipping as it really adds up on these projects.

@@FiddleMaker63 ive been watching a lot of @tinmanssaws seems like highway and meteor are decent. I’m think of putting the blue saw back together with the husky top end and perhaps ordering one of the 52mm top ends for the spare. Looks like I will need to buy case splitting tool though. I’m still iffy on the carbs though. May have to do some more learning on those.

@@PoeLemic thanks! Glad the were helpful.

It was around 300$ if I recall correctly

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm I just figured out my problem .. it's my crankshaft sensor is shorted out and causing a short in my 5 volt circuit, so I haft to replace that . But thanks for the video and info

@@chuckrogers2581 Glad to hear you found a straight forward solution.

Hi Erin, The gateway is a separate device. I use the Govee H515 gateway. This device connects to your homes WIFI and to the sensors via blue tooth then relays the sensor data to the Govee cloud so that you can see the data in the Govee app when your out of blue tooth range but have data service on your phone.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm thanks for replying. Guess I didnt realize I had to buy a 2nd device to make this hygrometer work...crap!

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Will Govee 5040 work as gateway?

@@avadhuttube I don’t have the h5040 kit but it looks like this kit comes with a gateway and Water sensors. The Govee site implies that the gateway in this kit will work like the other h5151 gateway.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm thank you for replying.

Thanks you may also want to look at the ink bird sensors they make a Bluetooth unit similar that’s rated for freezers. I’ve not played with the Inkbird stuff yet but it looks comparable in price and functionality

Potentially. The door locks and window regulators are controlled by a computer that shares a communication bus(wires) with the other computers in the vehicle if the bus gets shorted it could block the other computers from being able to communicate.

😊i think also the key fob or security system might be a reason and possibly a short in the relay box

😊i think also the key fob or security system might be a reason and possibly a short in the relay box

😊i think also the key fob or security system might be a reason and possibly a short in the relay box

Almost correct. You must leave the skim module out. If the new computer detects the skim module it will enable the feature. If this happens then you may need to take the Jeep to the dealer and have the keys programmed assuming the old skim module is working correctly.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm I had to pull my dash to do hvac work. Upon reassembly jeep won’t start. Won’t crank or click or anything. I have no dome lights or headlights, the blinkers won’t work or the horn. Gauge lights come on but gauges are not working. Blower motor works. I’ve tried to manually jump the starter and it just cranks and cranks. I’m having almost the same issues you are but mine just doesn’t even try to start.

@@davidcampbell4218 hard to tell without being there. Start with the basics make sure all the connections are tight/ connectors are fully plugged that you may have unplugged or pulled on and no pins backed out of the sockets. Then check for any wires that may have become pinched or damaged. Ground wires are a perennial problem. the Jeep is made up of various computers that all talk on the same. It’s so if there is a short that can disrupt all of the communication and none of the computers can talk. Three is a connector near the bottom of the plastic on the steering column where the plastic in the steering column ends and the dash board goes across the steering That disconnects the bunch of the auxiliary components on that buss. You could also use that connection to test if the buss is shorted using a multi meter. If I was a betting man I’d look for loose connectors or pinched wires. If absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key then look at the plug on the key switch. I wish you all the luck and hopefully it’s something straight forward. On mine there was an after market remote starter that also tied into the blinkers if that was unplugged the blinkers also may not have worked. Check the column switch connections and the BCM plug I believe it’s driver side behind the odb2 port.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm man I really appreciate you responding. I tackled the job again today after work. I pulled the dash and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. But I took a wire brush to the grounds by the air bag module. Put it back together and it started right up

What do you think of that dealer? I've not interacted with them no local Kubota dealer so I usually order my parts and supplies from Messicks.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm not as big as messicks but I have had great service from them. We bought an L3301 about 5 years ago now after we traded our L3400 into them. Really great people. If you want a tractor the salesman’s name is Shawn

I've had to do something similar on occasion. I've found that when I drop the loader with the tractor turned off but before I disconnect the lines, If I move the loader valve though all the positions, they generally hook back up much easier.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Thanks I'll try to remember to move lever in all directions before disconnect, hopefully with fingers crossed it will be never again.........

Your welcome. Glad it was helpful.

What is the model of the gateway you use to connect the H5075 thermometer y el h5100 please i need to know please ?

what is the better option for poultry?

inkbird is a good opcion?

@@ecuadorecuatoriano1347 I use the h5151 Govee gateway

@@ecuadorecuatoriano1347 if All you want is to view the temp remotely then the h5100 if you would like a display in the coop and or be able to trigger other Govee devices (lights or heaters). Then go with the 5075

Thank you for asking this, I completely missed this aspect of the devices when I was going over them. I've been testing this off and on over the past day or so and oddly the H5074 will only pair with the "distributed" gateway created by created by the smart plugs, it will not pair with the wifi gateways that the H5100 comes with. It also does not update in the app unless its connected via blue tooth on my phone. It really looks like the H5074 will only give you data when its connected via blue tooth to the phone, It seems the gateway pairing is only for the automation features. The H5075 and the H5100s both update to the cloud though so I can get temp and humidity data when I'm away from home, this does not seem to be the case with the H5074, Given the slow update cycle, the watch cell battery and now the apparent lack of ability to update data to the cloud via the gateway I would not recommend the H5074 to anyone. I would recommend going with the H5100, or the H5075 if you want a display and need automation.

I’ve used the h5100 in freezers and for the most part they worked fine. They are not sealed in any way and Govee officially does it support them for use in freezers further the alarms can’t be set lower than -4 f so the alarm functions are problematic. Inkbird makes two similar units that are advertised for freezers I’ve not had time to test them yet but they look promising

Yes

I used a couple of spudgers. if I remember correctly there are clips on the edges and large sticky pads inside. use the spudgers to apply gentle pressure while the sticky pads release. It was kind of a pain but doable with patience.

Thanks I appreciate the comment.I was thinking of putting soldering in a loose lighting cable but I’m not sure the pin outs. I’m curious what you figure out.

yes, i'm definitely interested in the port replacement as well. its a really shotty design for the port connection - which square seems to keep using on every stand design. there has to be another way!!

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm So i have found the 90 degree lighting ports on amazon. I dissasembled the sqaure port assembly. Today I will breaking out the multimeter to document the readings coming from the square connector. The wiring is not based on standard color codes for usb type A to lighting or usb-c to lighting so I will need to do a bit of testing to figure out how each line from the square cable correlates with the new lighting connector. It does look like they are using brown and blue for positive and negative. Ill follow up once I get some results on this! I wont give up!

@@MM-ko5gc fantastic I look forward to learning about what you find

@@MM-ko5gc Oh God yes, please do let us know what the pinouts are when you sort them. I just disassembled our own stand and need to get it back into use as soon as possible.

Inkbird has similar sensors rated for freezers and also units with temp sensors on cords that seem like good options for freezers and compost and soil. I’ve not played with them yet but I did buy a few.

You could use any thermometer you trust is accurate as the reference. I suspect the mercury or alcohol thermometers used for checking for body temperature would work, the digital ones (at least the ones I have) don’t start working until the temperature is in the mid 90’s so they may not be the best. Choice.

I’ve no personal experience with the h5104 but from the spec sheet it 2x as heavy and has a longer blue tooth range. The h5104 also has a white face on the display.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Thank you the reply back! Good catch on the bluetooth distance! I ended up ordering one of each to compare. The 5104 is noticeably heavier. It also has a battery status on the screen. However what I like about the H5075 is that the screen is a little bit receded into the shell and in my mind is better protected. While the H5104 screen is flat with the shell. I also prefer the lighter weight of the H5075 and don't have to worry about it if it shakes around the tupperdor. Both devices worked effortlessly with the mobile app and both show their battery status in the app. They're for the most part identical.

Thank you for the info! Have you noticed any difference with the bluetooth range or connection reliability?

Weber scientific traceable t shaped thermometer item# 3516-11

That’s a good question I have not looked into finding a nist calibrated humidity sensor yet. So I can’t answer that question

Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful

I just tested this I was successfully able to have the 5080 turn on and off based on temperature triggers from the 5075 using Govee automation.

I’ve not personally played payed with them much but from my understanding yes boost, buck, and boost + buck converters all work by converting voltage in a range to a fixed output. As long as the input is within the range ( and can support the current) the output will be constant. This makes sense when considering that boost converters hooked up to a battery will maintain a set output voltage even while the battery drops in voltage as it discharges, once the battery voltage is to low a good converter that’s made for the battery type will cut off / shut down to protect the battery though not all do so if your using battery technologies that take damage when they are over discharged make sure you get a converter with battery protection.

lol that’s awesome thanks!!

That does not sound normal to me I’d be curious what the sine wave looks Like in both conditions. Seems like there is a frequency or amplitude that’s not playing well with the converter

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm It the gyvrm A121203 I got from Amazon. Tested it today with an 18W 12V LED light, it stayed bright and steady from idle to Full throttle.

⁠@@jkucukovinteresting so with no load but high throttle the dc output voltage was 2-3 colts but with an led load it appears to be putting out the required voltage? That does seem quite odd though I’ve very limited experience with rectifying ac from generators.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm I ran the whole setup today again, this time I had 2 18W LEDs hoked up to tame Buck AC/DC converter, it surprised me that it works and the lights were steady from idle to full throttle. However if at full throttle and you decide to turn the lights off, the lights will not restart again due to reduced voltage as mentioned before, the only way the lights will come back on is if the throttle is reduced allowing the buck converter to catch up and power the lights on again. So as long as I decide not to turn the lights off at full throttle this Amazon Buck Converter (A121203) works. I wonder if this phenomenon has to do with the size of the capacitor inside the buck converter or the protection logic for above 12V AC input.

​@@jkucukov perhaps the no load voltage at full throttle is to high, this would typically cause component failure but if the buck converter has protection that may be whats happening. It could be a resettable fuse, per google they work for voltage as well as current.