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I believe any of those empty slots can work with any fuse value, within a reasonable range. There is a max limit to the amperage that the fuse panel, the wiring supporting the fuse panel and the wiring for your added item can handle. I would be cautious adding too many high draw items 20A+ (and don't ever try to run something like a subwoofer directly off that panel) but a couple of lower draw items of 3A - 10A are ok. I'm sure if there is information on the specs for the panel and the wiring used to feed the panel from the manufacturer, so you could calculate if higher draw items would be supported and how many you could add but for just a couple of small draw items it isn't really necessary to do that deep of a dive.

@@jakesdiy197 thanks for the info, to tell u the truth, i was looking for the opposite: low draw items like led lights. I just didn’t want to blow a fuse by accidentally putting it in an unsuitable port. If u cant tell, i am beginner at this and perhaps do not have the best understanding how this works.

The slot away from the prongs is for your new circuit. The slot closer to the prongs is for the existing circuit. For this example, the slot closer is empty since it was an empty slot in the fuse box.

Thank!

I used a wire fish tape / cable snake. Pretty sure this is the one I used. www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-EFT-15-Electrical-Fishing/dp/B074B3ZWMH?th=1

@@jakesdiy197 Thanks so much for the reply!

Car manufacturers don't always populate all the fuse slots in a panel. So it's not unexpected that you might not get any power to some empty fuse slots. I think things like different trim packages can effect if they wire up all the slots or not since it saves them a couple of pennies in wire for each one they don't have to wire. With those add-a-fuse taps you can just piggyback on one of the existing working fuses, I just found an empty working slot in this specific car (2022 Subaru Outback Limited) that I could use instead of piggybacking an existing fuse.

That can happen, lots of manufacturers won't populate the unused fuse slots. It saves them a few cents to not wire anything on the back side of the panel if their design doesn't require the extra fuse slots. Have done several vehicles like that, when I do those I will use an Add-a-circuit fuse tap on one of the populated slots for something like a cigarette lighter (cig) or power (pwr) accessory. I have also done accessory installs where I added a secondary fuse block (www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-12-Circuit/dp/B01BV1MS1K?th=1) that comes directly off the battery.

Cigarette lighter adapter is also called a 12 volt socket. They run at 12 volts, 50 or 20 amps regardless. Your battery is also 12 volts. Your question does not make sense as asked, I believe you meant amperage?

How’s the vantrue camera is the app working okay

I was just gifted a vantrue pro4 for my 2020 outback xt. Where in your outback did you mount your front facing camera? Thanks in advance.

"cold" ??

The constant power (when the car is off with 12.2 volts) slots I only use for things that I always want to have powered, like if you wanted to add a USB charger that you don't have to start the car to power. I typically use switched power (only shows voltage when the car is ON) for most accessory installs as it avoids problems with drawing down the battery while the car is off. When the car is on, the alternator will recharge the battery so you don't have to worry about parasitic draws on the battery that might draw down the voltage of the battery if you use the constant power slots. Hopefully that makes sense.

You basically said the same thing two different ways. If you tested a fuse with the car off and it showed 12.2 volts, that is standard where your battery should be without the load of your engine. 14.3 volts is a regular reading with the engine on. If you turned the engine off that reading would drop to 12.X volts. So, your question cannot be answered the way you phrased it. There is no problem with the details you gave, nor is there a difference in the operation of either scenario.

The engine fuse box probably won't have empty slots like I used in this video, but you can use the same fuse taps to piggy-back on an already populated fuse. If there are empty slots, a lot of the time the manufacturer doesn't put leads (wires) to the empty slots so they aren't actually hooked up. I would look for a lower amp fused slot, like 5 - 10 amps as those are typically more accessory type things and not critical stuff that will prevent the car from working right if you have a bad fuse tap or something that effects the already populated fuse.

I chose the Viofo cam based on a previous one that I had bought several years ago that was still working well. When I bought that first dash cam I researched a lot on forums and came up with a good idea of what was a good value for performance cam. I'm not really tied to any specific brand. I've installed several of the A119/A129 duo cameras and all of them work without any problems so far. I would suggest looking at wiki on r/dashcam on reddit (www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/wiki/index/) which will have up to date recommendations on cameras.

Yep, for those fuse slots that are originally empty you only use 1 fuse in the fuse tap.

@@jakesdiy197 thanks I got it installed.. the only thing the camera turns off saying it reached the low voltage cut off which I have it set at the lowest possible 11.8 V. When I test the fuse, I get 12.2 V.. do you have any idea why it’s turning off ?

​​@@alive2990because you left your car on in the accessory position without starting the engine for too long, and your battery discharged below your cutoff limit. It showed you 12 volts when you tested it because either you started or jumped the car since then.

Awesome, I tried the bottom of the door sill route on the next install I did but the wires ran a little short (like 6 inches short) so I had to pull them out and install in the headliner like I did on this one. I do like the bottom door sill install better, since it doesn't mess with getting in the way of airbags.

This is my Outback. No issues with camera placement affecting eyesight.

Not in my experience (which isn't really worth much). The car's computer managed to keep all the settings through the battery disconnect. Once I hooked the battery back up everything was as we had setup on that car. It probably has a smaller backup battery for the radio/computer or stores the settings in non-volatile memory.

Sorry it took so long to reply... The brake light does not cause any problems with the picture in the day and night videos on this install.

@@jakesdiy197 Thanks, it works for me.....

I used a multi-meter (DC voltage setting) to detect if the empty fuse slots were constant power or switched with the ignition. With the car off, I put the meter's black probe on a grounding location and then just probed both sides of each empty fuse slot with the red probe to see if it registered ~12 volts. Then I did the same with the ignition on. That should allow you to note which of those slots show no voltage when the car is off and which are constant. I'll have another video pretty soon that just focuses on checking those fuses with a multi-meter.

@@jakesdiy197 Awesome, thanks!

I did a quick walkthrough of how I checked for ACC (ignition switched) and Battery+ (constant power). You can find that here th-cam.com/video/h5O0yf9y00U/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps

That location in the center seems to be pretty good. The camera is mostly out of the way, I don't notice it when looking in the rearview mirror. I suppose I could mount it down low on the rear window, but then I think I'd notice it.

I just looked at some night time footage from the rear camera and there wasn't any interference or problems with the exposure or contrast when the brake light was on. There is some red light that is cast on the street and a little reflection of red light on some of the car body that is in the frame, but I think that is a good thing since it shows that your brake light was working if someone rear ends you.

I've added a parts list to the video description. I had a kit with various size fuse taps, but for this Outback I needed the low profile mini fuses (LP-Mini).

I'll check on this and make a better video of just removing the eyesight cover. I'll link that here once it is available.

@@jakesdiy197 Have you been able to do this video? Thanks!

If you don’t require the always on of connecting to fuse box just mount it and run the wire in the headliner and under the weatherstripping on the passenger side down to glovebox. My 2023 has a cigarette plug in the box so I just use that and you literally can’t see any of the power wire except for the short distance to the headliner from the camera. I leave it plugged in and the camera turns on as soon as I start the car.

In this car I could not slip the cables between the eyesight housing and the windshield above the sensor, the housing was too tight to the glass. Maybe other cars will have more room depending on the fit of the plastics and windshield from the factory. I think you could run the cable without removing that eyesight housing by taping the cables to the windshield as high as possible in front of the sensor, it looks like that might avoid the sensor. The housing was pretty easy to take down once I figured out where all the screws and plastic tabs were. The hardest part was getting over the fear of taking apart a new car and screwing something up. Hopefully I showed where those screws and tabs are so you don't have to pry and poke around like I did to find them.

I just slipped it behind the plastics without pulling the Eye Sight covers.