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Diy_Automotive
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2019
I'm committed to providing high-quality information to assist you in repairing your vehicles independently. Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or a seasoned mechanic, I aim to offer valuable insights and ideas that everyone can benefit from. Don't hesitate to reach out-I'm here to lend a helping hand whenever you need it!
DIY Guide: Replace Serpentine & AC Belts on Silverado/Sierra (1999-2012 Full-Size GM Trucks)
Learn how to easily replace the serpentine belt and AC belt on a 2005 Sierra 1500 in this step-by-step DIY guide! This procedure also works for most full-size GM vehicles from 1999 to 2012 (and more), including Chevrolet and GMC trucks and SUVs like the Tahoe, Suburban, Sierra, and Yukon.
With clear instructions and tips, you'll save money and gain the confidence to tackle your own maintenance. Whether you’re a beginner or experienced DIYer, this video breaks down everything you need to know. Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more handy vehicle repair tutorials!
With clear instructions and tips, you'll save money and gain the confidence to tackle your own maintenance. Whether you’re a beginner or experienced DIYer, this video breaks down everything you need to know. Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more handy vehicle repair tutorials!
มุมมอง: 100
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How to Replace a Fuel Pump on Escalade (Works for GM Trucks: Tahoe, Suburban, Silverado, Sierra)
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Welcome to our step-by-step guide on replacing the fuel pump in a Cadillac Escalade! This tutorial is perfect for anyone looking to tackle this repair on their GM truck or SUV, as it covers models like the Chevy Tahoe, Suburban, Silverado, GMC Sierra, and more. In this video, we’ll walk you through each part of the process with clear, easy-to-follow instructions. Whether you're a DIY enthusiast...
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Join me as I walk you through the step-by-step process of replacing the starter on a John Deere Gator. Whether you're a seasoned mechanic or a DIY enthusiast, this detailed guide will make the job easy and straightforward. From tools needed to troubleshooting tips, we've got you covered. Get your Gator back up and running in no time! Parts Used: amzn.to/3WQIYrK
How to Replace Honda CRV window regulator - 2002-2006
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In this video, we'll walk you through the process of replacing the window regulator in a 2004 Honda CRV. Whether your window is stuck, moving slowly, or not functioning at all, this tutorial will help you get it back in working order. This guide is applicable to all second-generation Honda CRV models, from 2002 to 2006. Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more DIY automotive tutori...
DIY: Replace Front Struts on Your 2003-2009 Toyota Prius - Step-by-Step Guide!
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Is your 2008 Toyota Prius riding a bit rough? It might be time to replace those front struts! In this video, we’ll walk you through the entire process, step-by-step, so you can do it yourself and save some serious cash. 🛠️💰 From the tools you'll need to the final touches, we’ve got you covered. Whether you're a seasoned DIYer or a beginner, you'll find this guide super helpful. So grab your too...
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5 years later thanks man merry Christmas and happy new year
Doesn't seem like it's been 5 years 😅😅 thanks for watching. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family as well!
Yo lo remplazar pero .yo.no.quite.el.AC.comprezor.yo lo moví todo asta el tope y lo voltie.poquito y saque el tornillo 😅
Eso es genial, lo intenté todo y este no. Tal vez el suyo tiene la ubicación de atornillado fuera de set. Tienen 3 opciones para estos camiones. cada vez que alguien puede hacerlo más fácil Yo soy bueno jaja.
Hopefully you can read that, translation helped some, entiendo poco español
I was gonna replace one of my lower control arms today before going Christmas shopping and decided to refresh my memory before getting started. I'm glad I found your video. After being reminded of how much work it is, I decided to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for the great detailed video. Gotta keep my 320,000 plus mile '99 F-150 going.
I'm glad it could help! Thanks for watching
@diy_automotive with me being a Texan, your southern accent also meant that I didn't need a translator, lol!
@1991DesertVet 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 i feel that, my accent makes it difficult to have a coversation with people at times. You can tell them understanding what I'm saying is delayed at times
Is that a 2000 LBS engine stand. And where did you got it?
I highly doubt it's a 2000lb stand. It's better built than most you can get from local stores but I definitely wouldn't put a 6bt on it 😅😅. I got the stand from a yard sale or an estate sell years ago and it definitely has some age so there are no identifiers on it.
You could have ordered a new pump with the pulley, which would have saved you some time. Secondly, if you buy a pimp without the pulley, the easy way to install it is simply to remove the pump and then pull the old pulley off and install it on the new pump while it is out of the vehicle.
You are correct. I wasn't thinking when I started pulling the pulley off with the pump on the vehicle, haha. It becomes almost a habit when the last few you've replaced require pulley to be removed to remove the pump. You do have a good point on buying the pump with pulley. People watching this video can do that and save some time as well.
i got a 2012 gmc sierra 5.3 and just recently got a quite consistent rough idle when coming back from bout a hour drive, worse when idling in drive, and not so bad once idling in park, got a p0301 code, cylinder 1 misfire, i swapped coils to see if it would give me another code but still cylinder 1 misfire, you think the plug or plug wire is the problem?
Is possible, you're on the right track. I'd swap them as well to see if it moves. Are you reading live data or just pulling codes? If pulling codes be sure to clear after swapping components. While you have the plug out it woukd be a good time to check compression. Most parts stores have a loaner compression tool
@ I’m deleting old code swapping coil to see if the coil is bad to see if the suspected bad code on another cylinder would give me a new code to indicate that it is the coil, but yea I’ll get back with u when I check compression
Same engine I’m working on right now but man the engine sounds so rough , it’s saying mis fire and map sensor , replaced the sparks and coils and still mis firing , cleaned the injectors still could be a problem with the injector but I’m gonna try map sensor next 😢😢😢
What cylinders are misfiring? What code is it throwing for map?
😂😂😂😂😂
What causes a bad lifter?
Poor design, service interval neglect, on the afm lifters failing control valves/solenoids can also cause the lifter to collapse
What is time to r n r rt frt drive axle 08 Prius?
I believe it's around 2hrs
Great thorough video. What size of clear hose did you use to fit inside the black low pressure return hose?
Thank you, I'm not sure to be honest, it's just what I had laying around. I believe the return hose is 3/8. So maybe 1/4" or 5/16
Did you have a p0300 code? My live data shows cylinder 2 misfire. I wish i would have known to do this when i had my rocker cover off yesterday. I changed all gasket on both sides, even the valley cover gasket, but not once did i think to start the vehicle with them off.. Smh
@Notime2waste_tito it may have had a p0300. If I remember correctly that's random engine misfire? It's picking up the cyl 2 miss but it's not pronounced enough yet to set a hard code for it
I got a misfire on cylinder 7 and my truck sat for a very long time specifically 5 years and it’s a Chevy 2006 Silverado and when I jump past 3000 rpm’s you can’t tell just when moving slower and when I’m in idle it’ll bounce pretty noticeably
I missed this comment earlier, the higher rpms help balance the engine out. Misfire is most likely still there just not as noticeable. Have you attempted to check anything yet?
@ I really don’t know where to start when it comes to checking anything and Im broke as shit so I try and keep it relatively cheap but I did change my spark plug and also when I’m stopped and I just let the truck walk without pressing the gas it bounces pretty heavy which I just assume is also part of the misfire
So without spending money, we can swap some parts around to rule out possible causes. You will need a way to read codes or, preferably, watch live data. Swap ONLY one part at a time so we will know which part is bad. If you've installed new plugs then we can start with the plug wires. Swap cyl7 plug wire with cyl 5. When you Swap parts inspect them for any signs of damage then clear all codes (you can disconnect battery if you don't have a scanner) then you want to go drive it, get it scanned again. If your misfire stayed on cyl 7 then the part you swapped isn't the problem, move to the next part. When your misfire does move then you've found your problem. You can Swap the plugs, coils, and plug wires to rule them out. I would also inspect the wiring around the injectors and coils for any damage from mice etc
Is there a difference of AC compressor placement on a 4.0 and a 2.7?
I'm not sure, I can look friday when I'm back in the shop
What were the original symptoms?
@@harlowecustommicrogreens crank, no start condition
Is it hard to replace a ignition sensor on a 2014 traverse ? I just watched one of your videos at 812
Are you talking about an ignition coil?
I just watched your video on the crankshaft sensor and I’m getting codes p0018 and p0019 would that be a sensor issue or more of a timing chain? It’s a 2012 Chevy traverse with 150,000 miles
With it setting correlation codes for both cams on a single bank (not other codes?) My guess would be that the bank 2 chain has stretched. If you had codes for the other bank, I would look towards something else, crank sensor, etc. But if it's only one bank with both cam codes, I would place my money on that banks chain has stretched, causing it to be out of time. Especially with the known timing issues these vehicles have. But to be sure 100%, you'd need to go in and verify.
Thank ya
No problem
Thank you so much for posting this video. The others i watched were for a 4.6L engine, but the sensor laid on the outside of the block, and were no help at all. You have saved me quite a bit of money and headache. Thanks again. Take care and stay safe Brother.I really appreciate your knowledge and expertise.
I really appreciate your comment, I'm glad it helped!
@@diy_automotive Yes, Sir. Youew welcome. I havent tried starting it yet and still need to replace the crank sensor, but when I replaced the fuel pump, filter, coils, plugs, and fuel rail sensor, it wouldnt start. Im at my wit1s end with end.. All fuses are good, as are the relays. Any ideas would be greatly apprewciated. Its a 2005 Ford Explorer 4.6L by the way.
@@angelcintron2122 throwing any codes? Can you describe what was going on when it messed up?
@@diy_automotive It initially just quit and i found out the fuel pump was only putting out about 12 to 15 psi. Then I ewplaced all rgose other things, and it srill wont start. It did throw codes for oxygen sensors and crank sensor, bith of which I have now ewplaced, but still wont start. The battery is also brand new, and in the 12.8 range.
@angelcintron2122 if I have time after work tomorrow I'll post a video on a few things to check
Simple and easy to watch. Going to replace one this afternoon using these steps. Thank you
Angle ruined your video
I agree, it was difficult for me to get a good angle on this one.
DIY automotive what's up man nice video yours is the first one I've seen that doesn't have AWD it looks like you've got a lot more room in there then I'm going to have and I don't have a lift I have seen a few videos where I can get at it from the top by removing my air filter housing and what I was wondering is do you think I'm going to be able to get a regular size ratchet in there with that AWD in the way and what your thoughts are about getting at it from underneath without a lift but I do have jack stands or getting at it from the top through removing the air filter housing anyway let me know if you get a chance if not don't worry I'm not going to unsubscribe or nothing lol, oh yeah I like how you set that dumb ass straight that made a fool out of himself saying you were changing a knock sensor what a jackass
😅😅😅 I'm honestly not sure, i haven't messed with an awd. If others are saying you can remove the air box and get to it in, would try it. Air box shouldn't be too big of a deal to remove. If you have a 1/4" ratchet, I would try to use that so you'll have more room. If that doesn't seem to be working, you can always put it on jack stands and see what you can do. May require you to do both to complete the job. Sorry I'm not more help, if you run into anything or have more questions I'm happy to help however I can
@diy_automotive do you think it's possible to replace the rack and pinion bushings without total removal? Maybe one at a time? About to dive into this job, rack itself is good, bushings are shot
@96200sxser the rubber mount bushings? If you can get them i think there would be a good chance. If i recall correctly, one side is a clamp style, so that'll be easy. The other is an actual bushings. I think you can take the mounting bolts out and have enough room to work. The drill bit to remove bushing trick would probably get it out, if not just drill the old bushing out. Putting the new bushing in, you could probably rig up a c clamp to press it in
@diy_automotive appreciate the quick response and advice. Have a good one buddy
@96200sxser you're welcome, good luck!
which sensor is this? (bank 1 sensor B?)
This is the crank sensor, are you looking for the cam sensors?
@ i have code P0017, and it says “crankshaft position - camshaft postion correlation bank 1 sensor b? Notnsure which sensor I’m looking for honestly
@tretre1692 i look it up this evening. Basically, that's saying the crank sensor doesn't agree with what that sensor is saying. If it's only showing one corelation code, it's most likely a cam sensor or timing.n
@ i kept reading timing issue, but I wanted to try replacing the sensor first before getting into a timing mess since the sensor is only like 30$
@tretre1692 whats your year and engine size?
How the fuck you get the cover off lol
Very carefully 😅😅
Wish i seen this few weeks ago lol cars already together haha 😄 😄
😅😅😅 I guess all is well
Sweet, thanks!
What are other symptoms?
Brake booster is most common, hard brake pedal, hissing noise when pressing the brake pedal, brake pedal going from stiff to super sensitive without warning, if you have a high idle or codes for "lean conditions" and you brakes feel odd the booster could have a leak. Master cylinder - most common problem i see are the seals leaking as shown in video
Do you know if this should be the same process for a 2010 Ford Fusion SE?
I believe it will be different. What engine size? I'll look at it in the morning if I have time and let you know
@@diy_automotive I appreciate it. It’s a 2.5.
@Skipp4TIMEZ it's not, repair data doesn't give a procedure to replace the pump on that car. From looking st diagrams it appears it's going to be on the driver side of engine under the area of the power steering fluid container.
“Don’t lose your socket.” Cracked me up.
😅 it happens
Easily the best video I've seen on this repair. Others say you need to remove the tire (unnecessary) and/or say that you need to go in through the top to get to the belt tensioner (unnecessary). I took off the inner wheel well liner when I started but ended up removing the battery connection and plug from underneath while I was down there. I would disconnect the breather hose immediately upon starting as it's constantly in the way and you have to remove it anyway to get the alternator out; I used a pair of small vice grips to press the tabs of the connections after struggling to push them and pull the connection at the same time. With the vice grips it took 5 seconds. My car has the steel shield under the engine and it is HEAVY and held in place by probably a dozen 15MM bolts. Getting it back in place requires a helper or stacking something under the car to rest it on to get some bolts started; it is too big and unwieldy to try to hold in place while fitting the bolts. My shop quoted $2k to do the repair; I spent $300 on a new alternator and a Saturday morning to get it done. Score!
Awesome! I really appreciate the feedback. I'm sure future viewers will also find your info useful as well. I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching.
My truck was running beautifully but always had a cel for bad cats, drove it right before installing new cats because it was really leaking bad at this point as well so I put in new manifolds, new cats, 4 new o2 sensors and (did plugs and wires a year ago)..popped a p0300, now I did use shittier brand plug wires and they felt like they snapped inside when removing them to get manifolds off so im hoping thats the cause but I also suspect my coilpacks and those+ wires will arrive today so hopefully thats it..
With your situation, I would think you're probably right about the wires, I wouldn't worry too much over it.
@@diy_automotive *UPDATE turns out when I installed the new manifolds I must have hit the very last spark plug by accident and cracked the porcelain, new plug and its running great 👍🏼
@mtnbkr265 good deal! I'm glad you got it figured out
Are you removing a rack?
The rack and pinion for steering
That's the exact same rocker that ain't moving on an LH6 Trailblazer in my back yard.
😬 uh oh
❤
Intake valve is stuck open. Bad air to fuel mixture. Recommendation is to replace the valve spring, rod, valve itself. Check others for any play or hard lash.
Good looking, it was actually stuck closed due to a collapsed lifter.
Good video. I just got fault PO345 on a 2008 Xterra. It helped that you matched the different fault codes for bank 01 and bank 02. Thanks
Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped
Thanks man for sharing your knowledge helps me a lot god bless you,
@@betogonzalez617 you're welcome, thanks for watching! If you run into anything or have questions post them and I'll reply as i can
I’m so tired of being a tech because of this bs…
@edent6805 it gets "better" every year 😅 i can't remember if it's the newer chevy or ford that the oil pump is ran off a belt, in the rear of the engine. So to service it you have to pull trans and fly wheel.
@@diy_automotive I remember hearing something about that. It makes me sick!
Insanity
Ford Has Built The MOST Garbage Allowed
The 7.3 engine was pretty good! 😅 (if you get it, you get it)
Dude that's horrendous
Tell me about it, on the chevy ls truck engines you can change a pump out in 30 minutes. This one is about a 12 hr job 😅
Nope, I'm a 2020, and this is not what the shifter looks like.
Wrangler?
That actually dosent look to bad of a job….guess I’m doing this sat😂
Just don't forget the new seals 😅
I definitely appreciate your video i like to see if someone has a better idea than i do sometimes i learn and I’ve been wrenching for over 25 years lol anyway i found it better to deal with the pulley with pump off the off the motor faster in my opinion ..
@unclejun4328 I do the same thing, it's always good to see if you can learn a new trick from watching others.
How low is too low before air gets into the system?
As soon as the pump hits air. Every system is different. the best practice is to keep the fluid level above the minimum line. Looking st your fluid can usually tell you, if you see q bunch of bubbles in it, or see some air bubbles pop up while turning the wheels it probably has some air in the system that needs to be bled out.
Ok, well i guess it makes sense to keep it above the minimum line. Thanks
You're welcome. If you have any questions or run into anything, just let me know, and I'll help however I can.
tensioner trick is sketchy but now my car drives again so hell yeah
🤣🤣 I'm glad it worked for you
What was the fix for the problem?
I have another video on the fix, short version: it had a bad ground going to the fuse box. Customer didn't want to pay to diag the entire problem to locate and repair it so we ran a new ground into the affected areas of the fuse box
Why remove the ps pump pulley? The new part contains a new pulley?
It depends on where you get the part from 95% of the ones I install do not come with a pulley.
Thanks, it worked. My hose didn’t drain water and my floor boards were wet. I used a can of compressed air used to clean dust from keyboards and corners in the hose and discharged a generous spray and out came close up a gallon of water. Steaming scratchy sounds when turning gone. Draining on floorboards gone. Thanks!
That's awesome! I'm glad it helped