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This is the crank sensor, are you looking for the cam sensors?

@ i have code P0017, and it says “crankshaft position - camshaft postion correlation bank 1 sensor b? Notnsure which sensor I’m looking for honestly

@tretre1692 i look it up this evening. Basically, that's saying the crank sensor doesn't agree with what that sensor is saying. If it's only showing one corelation code, it's most likely a cam sensor or timing.n

@ i kept reading timing issue, but I wanted to try replacing the sensor first before getting into a timing mess since the sensor is only like 30$

Very carefully 😅😅

😅😅😅 I guess all is well

Brake booster is most common, hard brake pedal, hissing noise when pressing the brake pedal, brake pedal going from stiff to super sensitive without warning, if you have a high idle or codes for "lean conditions" and you brakes feel odd the booster could have a leak. Master cylinder - most common problem i see are the seals leaking as shown in video

I believe it will be different. What engine size? I'll look at it in the morning if I have time and let you know

@@diy_automotive I appreciate it. It’s a 2.5.

@Skipp4TIMEZ it's not, repair data doesn't give a procedure to replace the pump on that car. From looking st diagrams it appears it's going to be on the driver side of engine under the area of the power steering fluid container.

😅 it happens

Awesome! I really appreciate the feedback. I'm sure future viewers will also find your info useful as well. I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching.

With your situation, I would think you're probably right about the wires, I wouldn't worry too much over it.

@@diy_automotive *UPDATE turns out when I installed the new manifolds I must have hit the very last spark plug by accident and cracked the porcelain, new plug and its running great 👍🏼

@mtnbkr265 good deal! I'm glad you got it figured out

The rack and pinion for steering

😬 uh oh

Good looking, it was actually stuck closed due to a collapsed lifter.

Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped

@@betogonzalez617 you're welcome, thanks for watching! If you run into anything or have questions post them and I'll reply as i can

@edent6805 it gets "better" every year 😅 i can't remember if it's the newer chevy or ford that the oil pump is ran off a belt, in the rear of the engine. So to service it you have to pull trans and fly wheel.

@@diy_automotive I remember hearing something about that. It makes me sick!

The 7.3 engine was pretty good! 😅 (if you get it, you get it)

Tell me about it, on the chevy ls truck engines you can change a pump out in 30 minutes. This one is about a 12 hr job 😅

Wrangler?

Just don't forget the new seals 😅

@unclejun4328 I do the same thing, it's always good to see if you can learn a new trick from watching others.

As soon as the pump hits air. Every system is different. the best practice is to keep the fluid level above the minimum line. Looking st your fluid can usually tell you, if you see q bunch of bubbles in it, or see some air bubbles pop up while turning the wheels it probably has some air in the system that needs to be bled out.

Ok, well i guess it makes sense to keep it above the minimum line. Thanks

You're welcome. If you have any questions or run into anything, just let me know, and I'll help however I can.

🤣🤣 I'm glad it worked for you

I have another video on the fix, short version: it had a bad ground going to the fuse box. Customer didn't want to pay to diag the entire problem to locate and repair it so we ran a new ground into the affected areas of the fuse box

It depends on where you get the part from 95% of the ones I install do not come with a pulley.

That's awesome! I'm glad it helped

Most pumps have several applications, some applications will require a different seal. As long as you match it up and use the same one that yours had you'll be fine.

@@diy_automotive ok I had swap my pump for warranty cause of leaking issues I can't pinpoint what the leak was coming from . Got it swapped and it appears to still be leaking so I was wondering if I messed up not finding a spot for that bigger seal. I got the o ring seal around the high pressure hose fine but tossed out that bigger one wondering if maybe it was needed but I couldn't seem to figure out where .

@natiivejay07 how bad is the leak? It's not the return hose is it? Where did you buy your pump from?

@@diy_automotive it's a trugrade from AutoZone and it maybe the return hose is the low-pressure hose correct? I noticed the clamp on it from factory doesn't prevent it from being able to be pulled by hand even when placed properly on the hosen

@natiivejay07 Yes, the return hose is the low pressure. You might be able to get a better view with a mirror or by sticking your phone down there while recording. Hopefully you can visually see the leak with one of those options. Sounds like the return hose clamp could be your problem

Where the pump bolts up? That's the only place I can think of that would have dowel pins. I don't recall any, but there may have been some that stayed on the engine and didn't come off with the pump.

@@diy_automotive yes sir! I found one above the bottom left bolt. I was making sure I didn’t over look anything! Thanks for your reply!

Yes, that would be a sign that the master cylinder is leaking and needs replaced. If you were my customer, I would recommend replacing both, especially if it's leaked a good amount of brake fluid into the booster. If it hasn't leaked much into the booster and your budget is tight, you can possibly get by with just replacing the master cylinder for the time being.

@@diy_automotive 😂 ok So I just got home and suctioned out what brake fluid was in the booster....🤦🏼‍♂️ I filled a whole a** 20oz soda bottle! So I am on a budget like real bad Just spent a lot on this truck already plus $600 vet visit for the dog... Some are telling me junkyard but wouldn't that put me at risk of the same exact problem? And I heard you need to get ACDelco remanufactured That's the cheapest option anything else will not work right out the box?

@slammedb18a1 that's a lot 😅😅 I've had decent luck with the local parts store boosters, I would definitely use them before a junkyard one (you just never know what you'll get from the junk yard)

It could be, did the old rack have the same issue?

Check your fluid after turning the wheel a few times and see if it has a bunch of bubbles in it. If it does you most likely have air in the system. Let the vehicle sit for about 20 minutes without running, lift the front tires off the ground and slowly turn the wheel full lock to lock 20 or so times and see if that helps

I'm not sure what year exactly, but yes, they had an improved design on the built-in pcv to help with that issue.

I'm not sure how I missed that when i editing 😅😅. Thank you! And yes, cutting the bolt is an option for those who wish to go that route. I appreciate the feed back!

Oh and all the rockers moved up and down.

Do you have a bi directional scanner? I would be curious if a fuel injector isn't functioning properly. You could try lightly tapping on cyl injector with it running and see if that does anything. Next step is an led test light to see if injectors and coils are getting signal pulses

@@diy_automotive I don't have any scanner unfortunately that would probably help me diagnose it better

@thegman4759 it would definitely help, you can check to see if the injector is pulsing with a cheap led test light, I'll try to upload a video explaining it when I get home this evening

@@diy_automotive is that the screwdriver looking thing with the alligator clamp I've got one of them

In the older trucks I have. There is a guy that makes a tool to try and free stuck lifters. You remove the push rod, put the tool in and hit it 😅. Some people swear by it, you could google that and see if it's a route you're interested in. What type of warranty came on the engine it's self?

@unclejun4328 the pump was making noise. You can try flushing the powersteering system and see if that will fix your noise issue. Small chance, but it would only cost a few dollars to do.

@paulamckinney7941 thank you for watching, hard starts I would also check the throttle body blade. I've seen them dirty and not allow enough air flow through for idle. If you get it and have questions, feel free to post them, and I'll try my best to help.

@@diy_automotive that's right didn't think of the throttle body. Had a trailblazer I had to clean the throttle body on. Boy you could tell a difference after it was cleaned. Thanks for that. Simple things seem to be the common things overlooked.

That's correct, the ground circuit was either broke or high resistance. Customer didn't want to pay diagnostics to find the exact location and repair it. So I provided a new ground to the relay circuit. I'm not a huge fan of this because there could be other components on that ground circuit that aren't working due to the same issue. Sometimes, one repair can fix several problems, unfortunately on this one they just wanted it to run again.

@@diy_automotive ill let you know what I come up with if I go ahead and buy this vue from my friend. Thanks so much man. I appreciate you. I was a technician in my younger years but I went with a different career. But I do miss it. Learned a lot but it's been since 2007 since I was in the automotive industry.

@paulamckinney7941 I understand that completely, I appreciate you taking the time to watch my videos.

Thank you

This one was a dead cylinder all the time. At higher rpms, a dead cylinder isn't as noticeable, though.

Looking at part #s they are the same, as long as it's same engine size as well.

facebook.com/DIYAutomotivefix I have problems getting notifications sometimes but you're welcome to message me there. I'd like to mention, I don't mess with many side by sides but I'm happy to help how I can.

@@diy_automotivethank you! Just sent you a message

You're not the first one to ask this 🤦🏻‍♂️ I should have included that in the video, lol. I have an o ring assortment that I just grabbed one out of, so I'm not exactly sure of the size. I wish I could be of more help. You can take the old o ring to any parts house, and they can match it up. I know this will probably be an additional trip. Hopefully, someone else who does this job will post the size they used. If I get another power steering pump job in, I'll be sure to post it. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the feedback! If you have any questions during the process, post them up, ill.be happy to help how I can.

Thanks for the feed back!

Have you pulled any codes? And do you have access tona scanner with live data?

@diy_automotive Its cammed so the misfire codes were deleted during the tuning process

I haven't messed with many modified engines. I'm guessing the misfire started later after modifications? Do you have an idea which cylinder it is? Not sure what all tools you have available, I would try to isolate the specific cylinder. Not sure how aggressive the cam is. You could possibly unplug one coil at a time and see if you can find it that way. A compression test would be great, if possible, a leak down test. Other ideas would be to check pulses on injectors/coils to see if they're getting proper signal to fire.

​@diy_automotive Compression test was 180 on all 8 cylinders, after more digging it was pushrod links

@fh4dragster740 I'm glad you found it, and I appreciate you coming back to let me know what you found

I couldn't agree more. I've noticed that the majority of failures I see are on #6, I wonder why that is, or if that's just something odd that's happened with me.

I know the feeling. 2015 sierra #4 went out

I got a 4.3 ...I have a mis on 4..it's screwy.every body got this issue.if I get it rebuilt I will make sure i do afm delete. For sure.