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They're dorman lines, where are yours failing at? Edit, I'll try to post links in a bit

@ each one I have replace have a pin hole in them. The rubber hose and plastic housing are good.

The aluminum hose is where the pin hole is.

That sucks, I'll post some links for you in about an hour. Maybe the ones I used will work better for you

@ please send information on them.

Before

I think this one was a 98 so that generation

I tried to make it simple and quick lol.

I'm not sure where it came from, a customer dropped it off with his tractor.

@ ah okay I search it

That was one of my first thoughts as well when the customer explained what it was doing.

Thanks for watching, and thanks for the tip. I'm sure it'll help others doing this repair. I may try it next time, I don't remember right off hand I think I had enough room but it was hard to get everything on camera

Engineers and adaptations for newer system designs. When Dodge first started doing this, they got me pretty good. I was backing out a charger with the door slightly open and the car put it's self into park (while it was moving in reverse) I freaked out trying to figure out what I backed into 😅😅😅 i knew I had checked behind the vehicle before hand but dodge had me second guessing myself, then I realized it had shifted itself into park as a safety function.

@@diy_automotiveonly does this because Anton yelchin was hit and crushed by his jeep.

Learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing the info

Until you open the door

As destruct said, the vehicle will not stay in neutral if you open the door or let off of the brake pedal. You have to put it in "neutral hold" if you want to be able to get out and roll the car, or basically do anything you typically put a vehicle in neutral to do.

No shit bud it's a neutral hold wake TF up

@@iceman4531 I'm not a fan of it either.

Nissan 🤷‍♂️ they're all coming up with their on electric shifters and their own way to put vehicles in neutral these days.

@ so odd to fix an issue that was never there😭

I agree, they are always "improving " things that would be better left alone 😅

I don't have a clue. What i do know is that if you put it in neutral and not "neutral hold" it will automatically switch to park if you let off the brake or open the door. That kind of defeats having neutral in the first place.

"Eco mode" 😉

Either the cable was broke or I cut them. On the back side of the regulator there should be a steel cable if you cut that it will allow you to move the window by hand. Only do this on the bad regulator you're trying to remove.

With the belt off and bolts out it should. I would try to triple check and make sure there isn't another bolt somewhere holding it. Also if you live up north you make have some corrosion holding it. I can't remember if these trucks have dial pins helping center the compressor, but I don't think they do.

Doesn't seem like it's been 5 years 😅😅 thanks for watching. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family as well!

Eso es genial, lo intenté todo y este no. Tal vez el suyo tiene la ubicación de atornillado fuera de set. Tienen 3 opciones para estos camiones. cada vez que alguien puede hacerlo más fácil Yo soy bueno jaja.

Hopefully you can read that, translation helped some, entiendo poco español

I'm glad it could help! Thanks for watching

@diy_automotive with me being a Texan, your southern accent also meant that I didn't need a translator, lol!

@1991DesertVet 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 i feel that, my accent makes it difficult to have a coversation with people at times. You can tell them understanding what I'm saying is delayed at times

I highly doubt it's a 2000lb stand. It's better built than most you can get from local stores but I definitely wouldn't put a 6bt on it 😅😅. I got the stand from a yard sale or an estate sell years ago and it definitely has some age so there are no identifiers on it.

You are correct. I wasn't thinking when I started pulling the pulley off with the pump on the vehicle, haha. It becomes almost a habit when the last few you've replaced require pulley to be removed to remove the pump. You do have a good point on buying the pump with pulley. People watching this video can do that and save some time as well.

Is possible, you're on the right track. I'd swap them as well to see if it moves. Are you reading live data or just pulling codes? If pulling codes be sure to clear after swapping components. While you have the plug out it woukd be a good time to check compression. Most parts stores have a loaner compression tool

@ I’m deleting old code swapping coil to see if the coil is bad to see if the suspected bad code on another cylinder would give me a new code to indicate that it is the coil, but yea I’ll get back with u when I check compression

It's a stuck lifter. #1,4,6 and #7 are the DOD lifters. And they will get stuck. You'll throw a p300 or in your case 301, telling you it's #1 cylinder. #1 and #6 are usually the worst ones to stick.

Since it is a #6 intake which is an AFM/DOD lifter. The reason it collapsed is the keepers slipped past after the VLOM collapsed it on purpose, and the reason is would run rough on the highway is when it switches from V8 to V4, but one isn't pumping back up. Before anybody tears the engine apart, try to get that lifter unstuck. It's possible. I've done it. And then send the ECM out immediately and get the AFM/DOD deleted. Or take it to a local guy with a tuner. I've been though 3 GMC Sierras with 5.3l in them. I usually run full synthetic Valvoline and never had a problem. Last couple oil changes I bought Centech Walmart cheap full synthetic, and within a few months had the lifter start sticking. Same one as you... #6 is usually the first to go. And if you stop driving immediately, it can be fixed, in the truck, with little work. And save $1000 if you can do it yourself. I posted a video with links on my channel.

How do you know it's the lifter? Don't take my question as being rude, you've provided some great information, and I'm sure others will benefit from it. While I agree there is a very good chance, it could be a lifter. My goal is to educate people on how to properly diagnose a problem. There are a lot of people (including some shops) that jump to conclusions and replace a part only to find out the problem isn't fixed and now they need to spend more money to hopefully fix it. In this person's case, it would be a shame for him to go through all of the trouble replacing the lifter only to have the same problem and find out later it's a bad injector that has a weak coil that's over heating and failing after extended use. To be honest, you seem very educated on this system and I would guess you're one that does your research before jumping on a project so this post isn't for you as much as others that may read it in the future, nothing wrong with suspecting you have the same problem that countless others have had. But let's verify that before throwing parts, money, and time at it.

What cylinders are misfiring? What code is it throwing for map?

Poor design, service interval neglect, on the afm lifters failing control valves/solenoids can also cause the lifter to collapse

The biggest contributing factor is people not keeping their oil clean. The age-old golden rule of thumb is religiously changing it at 3k for conventional, 4k for a blend, and 5k for full synthetic. You shouldn't go longer, on anything, ever.

@@johnny0454 what about the amsoil or mobile 1 oils that say 10k or their 15k mile oil?

@brandonnguyen1486 the operating conditions vary so much I wouldn't rely on what the brand says, they all want to sound better than the rest. The most trusted thing you could do is send oil samples off. This will give you a pretty good idea how well that oil holds up to your climate and driving conditions.

@@diy_automotive that would be a company called Blackstone or something close?

I believe it's around 2hrs

Thank you, I'm not sure to be honest, it's just what I had laying around. I believe the return hose is 3/8. So maybe 1/4" or 5/16

@Notime2waste_tito it may have had a p0300. If I remember correctly that's random engine misfire? It's picking up the cyl 2 miss but it's not pronounced enough yet to set a hard code for it

I missed this comment earlier, the higher rpms help balance the engine out. Misfire is most likely still there just not as noticeable. Have you attempted to check anything yet?

@ I really don’t know where to start when it comes to checking anything and Im broke as shit so I try and keep it relatively cheap but I did change my spark plug and also when I’m stopped and I just let the truck walk without pressing the gas it bounces pretty heavy which I just assume is also part of the misfire

So without spending money, we can swap some parts around to rule out possible causes. You will need a way to read codes or, preferably, watch live data. Swap ONLY one part at a time so we will know which part is bad. If you've installed new plugs then we can start with the plug wires. Swap cyl7 plug wire with cyl 5. When you Swap parts inspect them for any signs of damage then clear all codes (you can disconnect battery if you don't have a scanner) then you want to go drive it, get it scanned again. If your misfire stayed on cyl 7 then the part you swapped isn't the problem, move to the next part. When your misfire does move then you've found your problem. You can Swap the plugs, coils, and plug wires to rule them out. I would also inspect the wiring around the injectors and coils for any damage from mice etc

I'm not sure, I can look friday when I'm back in the shop

@@harlowecustommicrogreens crank, no start condition

Are you talking about an ignition coil?

With it setting correlation codes for both cams on a single bank (not other codes?) My guess would be that the bank 2 chain has stretched. If you had codes for the other bank, I would look towards something else, crank sensor, etc. But if it's only one bank with both cam codes, I would place my money on that banks chain has stretched, causing it to be out of time. Especially with the known timing issues these vehicles have. But to be sure 100%, you'd need to go in and verify.

No problem

I really appreciate your comment, I'm glad it helped!

@@diy_automotive Yes, Sir. Youew welcome. I havent tried starting it yet and still need to replace the crank sensor, but when I replaced the fuel pump, filter, coils, plugs, and fuel rail sensor, it wouldnt start. Im at my wit1s end with end.. All fuses are good, as are the relays. Any ideas would be greatly apprewciated. Its a 2005 Ford Explorer 4.6L by the way.

@@angelcintron2122 throwing any codes? Can you describe what was going on when it messed up?

@@diy_automotive It initially just quit and i found out the fuel pump was only putting out about 12 to 15 psi. Then I ewplaced all rgose other things, and it srill wont start. It did throw codes for oxygen sensors and crank sensor, bith of which I have now ewplaced, but still wont start. The battery is also brand new, and in the 12.8 range.

@angelcintron2122 if I have time after work tomorrow I'll post a video on a few things to check

I agree, it was difficult for me to get a good angle on this one.

😅😅😅 I'm honestly not sure, i haven't messed with an awd. If others are saying you can remove the air box and get to it in, would try it. Air box shouldn't be too big of a deal to remove. If you have a 1/4" ratchet, I would try to use that so you'll have more room. If that doesn't seem to be working, you can always put it on jack stands and see what you can do. May require you to do both to complete the job. Sorry I'm not more help, if you run into anything or have more questions I'm happy to help however I can

@96200sxser the rubber mount bushings? If you can get them i think there would be a good chance. If i recall correctly, one side is a clamp style, so that'll be easy. The other is an actual bushings. I think you can take the mounting bolts out and have enough room to work. The drill bit to remove bushing trick would probably get it out, if not just drill the old bushing out. Putting the new bushing in, you could probably rig up a c clamp to press it in

@diy_automotive appreciate the quick response and advice. Have a good one buddy

@96200sxser you're welcome, good luck!

This is the crank sensor, are you looking for the cam sensors?

@ i have code P0017, and it says “crankshaft position - camshaft postion correlation bank 1 sensor b? Notnsure which sensor I’m looking for honestly

@tretre1692 i look it up this evening. Basically, that's saying the crank sensor doesn't agree with what that sensor is saying. If it's only showing one corelation code, it's most likely a cam sensor or timing.n

@ i kept reading timing issue, but I wanted to try replacing the sensor first before getting into a timing mess since the sensor is only like 30$

@tretre1692 whats your year and engine size?