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I was here in hope of the same answer :(

so if your temperature isn’t mixing properly ( either too hot or too cold ) then that would be the case. mistakes can happen, but that is very old school. i think every fitter has done that at least once

yes, i do agree. usually we always put something on both surfaces even if one is just a butter but in some cases when the floor is really good and flat ( very rare 😂 ) , tried and tested a good wet mix of adhesive makes good contact on a reasonably deep trowel and it keeps the height of the floor as low as possibly. we all know these materials raise the floor heights considerably.

good question, I’m not a fan because when sticking directly to the XPS board, the stick isn’t very good. However it is an approved method. How much prefer to pay the extra for the cement based because if you do your own trial, you will see that the tile will stick to the cement face 100% strong. sticking directly to the XPS board does not prove to be stuck very strong However, you are walking on it and in reality, there should be no pressure.

He did a 3 minute video on how to fit the mixer now how to seal a bathroom!

MUPPET

I use a silicone gun to push back the piston, simple and everyone has one!

that is a good addition of protection against water . i’m still fitting these weekly and sometimes if the tile cut out is big the water can wind it’s way into the fitting and then through the hole

I have researched it in the past and done quite a few installations in recent years and I have put a 10 mm bed of levelling compound on top of the board and then applied the lvt/ vinyl flooring. That was on top of the insulation board ( The one with the polystyrene in the middle ) however the solid cement tile backer board or the Jamie hardy backer board is a solid/dense cement board therefor they are okay to install

Good point. by applying too much pressure on the nut then that will put sideways pressure on the screws and may cause the tiles too crack. The key is to apply ptfe tape around the olive, therefore you will not need to apply a lot of pressure when crushing the olive. ' do not strangle the olive ' it is unnecessary.

If you cut the copper pipe too short you'll be in big trouble. No way to lengthen it without getting the tiles out and solder new elbow with longer pipe.

On this system it’s approximately 10mm which I line up then I eye line it and tweak it into position so the score wheel hits the mark and clamp it in place.

This tray is from ‘ on the level ‘ who you can find at www.On the level.co.uk. For trade discount you will need to use my account at Tile-pro uk .

No ditra on this floor, the reason is because the subfloor is 100mm + solid screed with no heating so there is no subfloor contraction or movement. The heating on this is electric underfloor heating and the insulation boards absorbs minor move. If you use ditra on any floor any building build up needs to be before the ditra is laid so it is just under the surface of the tile.

Thank you mate.

@@tilepro-uk do you ever use 20mm porcelain or are you more internal work ? If you do just wanted to know what you use to cut them if so that’s all cheers mate

@@gilesj2215 all machine cut Im afraid. A bridge saw which cuts from the top and pumps water will give a crisp cut. General table tile cutters which cut from the bottom will chip the cut a little. I use vitrex Brutus. There’s a couple of clips on my Instagram #tilepro2020 might be helpful to you. 20mm porcelain is great to fit, they can be sizey so a good size grout joint hides the difference.

@@tilepro-uk thanks for that response much appreciated! I’m a landscaper you see and porcelain is obviously all the rage now and was considered getting a rubi wet saw dc250 1200 to get them cut as the old sthil saw just chips the hell out of them and have a job coming up with no265 900x900 to lay and thought I absolutely have got to invest in something ! Any recommendations other than the rubi ! 👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻

@@gilesj2215 yes I do plenty of exterior work. 20 mil porcelain are very common these days. So in general we cut from the top for a crisp cut and are use a local company with a jet cutting Machine for my bullnose edges or we often use timber sleepers around the perimeter. Check out my Instagram there is plenty of exterior videos which you might find helpful

It can get tough if the tiles aren’t calibrated for herringbone but you can make it work. It’s always good to think about what colour grout you are going to have with it because if your grout is going to blend/match the tile colour then you know you have a little bit of tolerance. If it’s floor tiling just freehand them and if it’s wall tiling use wedges because every gap isn’t going to be exactly the same.Unfortunately Tile manufacturers Don’t always keep the calibration in mind for herringbone. Good luck my friend

@@tilepro-uk Alright sounds good ill freehand it there not that much off i was hoping to get it perfect lining up it still looks good , thanks for the quick reply ive subscribed to your channel good work thanks again !

So there may still be some water in the valve and if the water supply is coming down from the ceiling there will be a leg of water still to come through but a towel should soak it up if you remove the whole valve the PTFE tape will seal any leaks. Good luck 🤞

Round or square is fine however some showers come with quite wide/thick covers and they will not work with the fast fixings so you need the narrow ones which are about 15 mm in depth which you can purchase them with the fittings on eBay. I would recommend purchasing them together as a Pack because often they are too thick so when you tighten up your valve nut it will Run out of thread and tighten against the cover.

​​@@tilepro-uk thank you can you please advise which to get or send a link please. I like the round covers. Thank you