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Yes, the foam closures at the base and the eaves were installed.

Hi Michael - But not totally useless :) Full Depth Systems are definitely more efficient. But this building is a cold storage building rather than a conditioned space. Customer just wanted a decent vapor barrier.

Hello Bob, While it's not necessary - it wouldn't hurt and I've seen a lot of people to it. However, normally the building panels are installed 1.25" lower than the edge of concrete with the closure strip and trim. So water would have to come up above floor level on the outside of the building to get in the building - all of the sealant and construction adhesive in the world isn't going to stop the water in that situation... But it is fine to do it. I have seen in some situations where a wall panel has to sit flush with the floor level - usually due to an oversight during concrete pouring like a concrete apron around the building or at an open lean-to/porch type thing. In this case action would be necessary but construction adhesive or sealant under the Base Angle/Channel is not the correct fix - we'd recommend Butyl sealant to applied on the inside of the panel (Difficult but doable) and on the outside. Butyl holds up better and doesn't turn rigid. Thanks

Sure. What’s your email address?

Holy Smokes - I'm just catching this - He is literally destroying us on line. I'm kind of impressed. To answer your question tho... We shipped an eave strut that was 10" short - the replacement shows up on Monday. We also had a back order on some clips that were shipped to him today but the mail takes a couple of days. This is such a bummer - I've contributed to him personally and my 3 young girls love his channel - they literally wait for every upload and we watch them together. He's not the goof that he comes off as in his videos - he's really intelligent and knows business very well. At the end of the day it's a construction project - we only found out about the nonconforming piece this afternoon and have already taken steps to resolve as quickly as we can. This is the only response I am going to give to the litany of comments/reviews we've taken in the last 15 minutes. I appreciate the tone of your question and thought it deserved an answer. Thank you

@@ericbeavers4769 if you are just catching wind of this then i would guess thats part of the problem 🤔

@@McGheeOH It literally just happened - I don't mean the missfabbed part. I mean the spam reviews and youtube comments. Ben just posted his video less than a half hour ago. I found out minutes before I responded to your comment. I knew about the part issue this afternoon and we've addressed it. Man, this sucks - I am such a huge fan of Ben and the Ranch :(

@@ericbeavers4769 Lmao bud, you're scamming him hard and not following on what was supposed to happen, now you're back peddling and saying non sens to try and not lose face. funny thing is your company's page is filled with customers whom you're lying too on delivery dates, the google reviews as well, filled with customers that are being toyed with. Hope this reality check hits you hard in the face!

@@ericbeavers4769 hey as long as your a man of your word there shouldnt be an issue

Hi Derek, do you mean the rake angle under the purlin extension to catch the end wall panel? It has to be installed so that one leg (usually the longer one) extends directly towards the ground in the same plane as the outside flange of the end wall girts and base angle. The top leg usually points away from the building to give something to attach the soffit panel onto. Of course I’m discussing GWB detailing but most building systems are similar. You’ll have to cut your end wall panels to slope prior to installing them. I hope this helps. Edit: I just reread your question. It is possible to put the rake angle on top of the purlins. This is good practice I’d your roof is insulated and you do not want to insulate the overhangs, or if you do not have soffit panels (like on an inset bay). Keep the bottom leg in line with the girt line as I mentioned above, use a square drive pan head to attach the angle to the purlins and cut out the bottom leg of the angle where the purlin interferes with it. This will also require you to do a similar cut on your wall panels to get past the purlin and up to the rake angels. Cheers

@@ericbeavers4769 Yes. That's what I mean. Unfortunately I went with Kodiak buildings and it showed to notch it and still run it on top of the perlins with the 4" leg hanging down between them.. I've seen it below the perlins as well and I have enough extra to run it there if needed. I'm the middle of building it now. I didn't find Great Western until after the purchase. You're videos have been extremely helpful!

I guess I shouldn't have said "unfortunately" it's a good building, but there are some improvements that could be made for people erecting their own building. It looks like there are several companies out there including Great Western that dona better job with drawings and instruction.

@@derykbigelow320 Hi Deryk, so notching the angle is not unusual per say... if we have an inset bay without a soffit/liner panel in the open bay we design it just like that. It's because the wall sheet needs to run to the roof - then of course there's a lot of trim work to actually seal the wall. I'm not familiar with Kodiak but I looked at their website - seems like they know what they're doing but of course a website is just advertising. If they have not been able to help you we are happy to look over the plans and give some advice. You're welcome to reach out to me directly and we can discuss on the phone. I won't put my email or phone number here because of bot spam you but can reach me by calling into GWB, get the receptionist and she will give you my email address - I will then reach back out to you. Cheers

@Deryk Bigelow I just saw that I was replying from the GWB channel and not my personal one. I also checked your profile - I'm wearing a Steven Crowder shirt as I write this and you're subscribed to his channel. Ha. Let me know if I can help out in any way.

That's exactly right. The crazy thing is that either the cable itself of the eye-bolt assembly will fail before the endgrip comes off. Physics or something I guess.

I don’t remember anymore. The panels hold it on permanently so the cheap stuff

Hi. What is the pink striping? You mentioned you get it from Home Depot. I’m not able to find it there or Lowe’s. Thanks

Hi Harley Guy, silicon is spec’d out but the bead shouldn’t need to be grotesque. We do sell these and they ship vendor direct. Contact our office and ask for component sales. I’d recommend Ryan Traver. Mention that you conversed with me on TH-cam and he’ll understand. He can answer questions about the window install too. Cheers

@@ericbeavers4769 so these windows aren’t meant to be “trimmed out” like with J trim and all that?

No, we can send these for retrofit installation directly to the panel. No special trims required. Assuming you can give us a thourough description of the wall panels you have.

No, it's just fiberglass with a vinyl vapor barrier that's laminated on the side that faces to the inside the building.

It just won’t be as easy to make it look good. It still works though.

He says he's going to silicone the edges. Classic, comment without listening to the video, TH-cam user😜

Hi Aaron, I'm glad the videos are helpful! If you haven't been over to the Great Western Buildings channel you should check it out. We have a lot more information over there. In April we will be doing a step-by-step process of a building going up. We should start releasing those videos by May I hope. Maybe we can do something with you too. Cheers

Where can I get this kind of window. ​@@ericbeavers4769

In the USA it's okay

Eric Beavers, you are not correct.

You don’t like metal roofs or insulation?

Hello Chad, yes we sell these windows. They are made by wintech. Here is a link. www.wintechinc.com/metal-modular-basement/metal/slider/C225 Thanks

@@ericbeavers4769 Bad link :(

We have an entire new video series getting to room out over the next month or two. First video hits late next week. We’ll be sure to show it all. Thanks for the comment! Follow Great Western Building Systems and you’ll get a notification for each video.

Hi Mark, The roof insulation is held in place with double sided tape provided with the insulation. It's only there to hold it in place while it's being installed. Once the closure strip and roof panel is installed the insulation is held secure by that system.

Hi, I've never installed a window into a shipping container. The window being installed in this video is designed to install onto a 1.25" R profile panel so it would not work on a shipping container as its designed to work on a steel building.

Yes. The window is pretty much water proof as installed. However silicone is recommended along the top and at the side fins prior to installing the snap on jamb trims.

could you please show the outside finished product? This video feels like step 2 of 3..being 1 and 3 are missing. Thx