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It certainly will make this area stronger. However increasing max gross weight also relies on stronger lift struts, landing gear, stronger wing spars, and possibly other areas as well. It really comes down to what weight the system is tested to during phase 1 testing (thinking of G loading).

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks Brian, I appreciate it!

Awesome! Sounds like we're on the same journey. I'm stoked about my MKIV, but you've got a great bird there with the Magnum!

Hi, it definitely could be scratch built. In fact quite a few are. You can get a kit like this anywhere from $6k-$20k used for an Avid or Kitfox.

@@letsbuildthis ok thanks, i will do some researching!

Ciao, thank! I sent you an email. Please let me know if you didn’t get it.

@letsbuildthis not at the moment pls resent and tnx

Thanks Mark! Follow along! I’m happy to help any way I can.

Thanks! PLA (I haven't tried PETG). I think I was at .16, and I use PVA that I brush on.

Hey Richard, it's a 912 mount. I've thought about pulling a jig off of it. Did you see my message about the pedals? If you send me a message here I can get your contact info and we can chat some more. forms.gle/iSfzs7RegWmvR3q26

Yeah, just whatever was built into the Ego battery itself. So I charge like any other power tool batteries.

Thanks! Yeah, that makes sense, probably why this was set collecting dust.

Woohoo!! Thank you 🙏🏼🎆🛫

In previous designs, yes it had a piston like effect compressing the parts, but with this one I stuffed both sides and squished together. I did this so that I could have the part line in a good spot for easy de-molding. Admittedly it required more attention to the layup and squish, but overall wasn't too bad to do.

@@letsbuildthis ok, thanks for the info. Yeah, the idea I have in mind is potentially going to be tricky to demould. I am actually wonder if it might just be easier in my case to just sacrifice the moulds. I need to make 4 parts, but I think trying to make them reusable is going to add a significant amount of complexity.

@@matthamilton4053 Yeah it definitely get more complex in the design. Since they're 3D prints it's easy enough to throw them away.

Thanks Richard! Can you fill out this form here so I can get your email and contact you? forms.gle/iSfzs7RegWmvR3q26

If only I knew someone like that… haha! Careful what you wish for, you might just open Pandora’s box with that offer 😉

Thanks!

Thanks! You know what they say; less is more, right?!

Thanks Vince, yeah I'll be happy to share that once I finalize plans there.

Ps did you digitise the plans? I'd be very interested in them.

Thanks, not currently digitized. If I ever get that done, I'll post it.

@letsbuildthis awesome thanks mate and good luck with the build

Brian, thanks for the feedback!

Hi James, It's the Genmitsu PROverXL 6050 plus with a Hercules router from harbor freight. I got a good deal on it through my local classifieds because the 300w spindle didn't work...which I upgraded anyway. It's a pretty good machine for doing lighter projects. What you saw there was 5052 .080 thickness. I plan to test this out with some 6061 here in a bit to see if I can do more.

@@letsbuildthis Thanks for the info, I'll look into that machine. I'm looking for something that can cut at least 3/16ths aluminum sheet.

Glad to hear it! Definitely more than one way to do. Thanks!

Hi there, I'm not planning on sharing the fusion files. I might offer the 3d print files in the future for the molds. What are you looking to do with them?

I want to little modify the handle to fits my Rans. If you can share the 3D print file also that would be ok. I can print the sample and check the fitment on Rans.

Yeah 100%, Since they're throw away I'm just burning through what I have. In the future I'll switch to a brighter color. Thanks for the tip!

Awesome, thank you!

That's a good idea! I'm printing pins I can press in on the next ones so I have the diameter I need, but I'll take a look at steel pins. Thanks

@@letsbuildthis borrow the tolerance!

This is really good advice, I just adapted this to some molds I’m printing now. Thank you!

if it breaks you can try different mold releases and bigger draft angles! or more mold pieces.

@@kingkasma4660 doesn't work that way. If you have a hole in the design, pretty much 99% guaranteed mold will break. Bigger draft angle just means more epoxy will fill the void, and lock up the release. You probably didn't do much of these molds to understand this issue. So as far as it goes - it's an expendable tool, and I use as little plastic as possible to keep the contour of the part I'm compositing, and then just throw away broken molds

@@yuriy77 is the mold for the hole also 3d printed? I use steel pins with a lot of mold release and hammer them out after the cure

@@kingkasma4660 yes, I have a complex, one-piece design, that's even with pin holes for bolts to hammer out still and up breaking something. I used a 9 piece mold the last time I tried it, due to complexity, plastic parts still not strong enough to separate without breaking at the weak points. Again, reiterating that unless it's a simple shape design, plastic 3dprinted mold is a one time use. At least for the complex shape part. I was able to reuse some mold pieces, but I don't design to reuse, I design to waste as little plastic as possible.

Snapmaker A350, and standard PLA for this one. Because there is a chance of destroying the mold, I just use the standard stuff. If I get something refined where it's reusable I'll consider a better material.

@@letsbuildthis Thank you

Thanks! Yeah, that's a good suggestion. I'll take a look for the next set of molds.

Awesome, thank you on all fronts!

Good eye, lol. Yeah total design flaw. I split the mould down the middle as the back up in case I couldn’t get the part out. Welp it was all moot because the boss held it all together. No big deal though because they’re low res prints and they broke in many places anyway. Next design will have the boss on one side.

Wow, thanks! Yeah I'm definitely planning to do a more in depth, so stayed tuned on that one!

you must have not seen the easy composites video on mold design and actual making of it...

@@yuriy77 I've tried to watch all their videos. I don't remember seeing one that left a huge impression on me as far as how the mold was designed. Link?

@@letsbuildthis Awesome. I can't wait to watch it. I've got a Rans S7S I'd like to make some CF parts for.

@@BellyUpFishGarage can't add links here but look up video called: Forged carbon revisited Mould design & strength optimization

Martin, thanks for the advice here, that's a great point. I hadn't thought about the rudder cable looping over the handle. So definitely something to consider. One reason I designed this way is so that if you need to get out in a hurry, it'd be a quick push of the wide part forward. I even thought to add the words" Push to exit" or something to that effect. My concern with the middle of the door is the complexity to the latching mechanism, this can create other areas that can be bent or bind in a tough situation, then your handle may not be effective at all. In either case I appreciate it and will take it into consideration.

That's a great idea! I've done that in the past, and clearly forgot about it, haha. Thanks for the tip!

@@letsbuildthis no problem, I can't take credit for it, just something I picked up watching Slant 3D! He's got a great channel with a lot of helpful advice!

Good question... not a term I came up with, just the universally used term around a newer composite process for carbon fiber. However the best analogy I can think of is a cast piston vs a forged piston. One is only pored, the other has had forces applied to it. So, I generally agree that the term "forged" carbon is not way far off in the fact that it's put under pressure as well.

The marketing team at Lamborghini is why it's "forged" :P

i think it makes some sense to call it forged, if it is put under strong pressure. I clamp my mold with several C-clamps all around the area of the mold. but my designs are about 10in square.

Thanks Glenn! Just using the standard PLA for now. If I throw them away, then the cost is low. If I Improve the mould, and can reuse I will definitely consider some better materials. I just picked up a PC-CF filament, but without an enclosure on my printer I don't think it'll work very well. I had the chance last week to print some parts on a X1 and I'm super impressed with the quality and even more so with the speed. Needless to say, the Bambu is likely in my near future. Thanks for the dialog and encouragement!

@@letsbuildthis very nice. i've just done this with some bicycle frame dropouts and I was dissapointed how hard they were to demould. but I had not used a draft angle and did not split the mould like you've done so I guess thats the main reason. BTW for low stress applications like the handle, I'd use PC-CF. I've used it on bikes in certain applications and its very strong. if you enable many wall layers then the outer surface of the object is very strong as you ensure the (shortish) CF fibres are aligned to the surface and so perfect for resisting bending. good luck.

Awesome, glad to hear it! No shop tour video yet. TBH, the shop is a bit a mess and it drives me crazy, but perhaps I can do a shop video in the near future. Cheers!

​@@letsbuildthisI know how that is. Mine has been so discombobulated this summer that it is unusable for some projects

No worries!

Tf is your problem?

I could be wrong, but as I understand it, the forged aspect of a metal part has more to do with the pressure being applied. Example being cast pistons vs forged pistons (pored vs pressed). So it seems accurate to me that the industry borrows this term here because of the pressure applied.

What's OSB?

Yeah, I hadn’t thought of that, but yeah I really is isn’t it. OSB is leftover wood chips glued together into sheets. So similar process here.

Hey chiparooo, not yet, but will include in a future forged carbon video. I can’t even bend or break with my hands (not very scientific I know, haha), it seems very strong though.