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Thank you for your comment! 😊 You’re absolutely right-the tap method isn’t reliable for modern taps with non-return valves, and there are definitely concerns about water regulations. I often resort to using an outside tap with a pressure gauge, but these taps often have leaks themselves. Clearly, turning off the main stopcock by the front door is a better approach, but it’s rarely accessible, especially in older properties or shared mains systems. A Question for You: Do you have a better method for a quick and reliable test? I’m always open to learning new techniques, and sharing best practices benefits everyone dealing with damp issues! 🚿💧 For those who might not know, you can learn more about water-related issues and detecting leaks here: 👉 damp.ai/ Let’s keep the discussion going! 💡

Thank you for your thoughtful comment! 😊 I agree to some extent. It's always better for walls to "breathe," so avoiding paint or coverings altogether is ideal-unless there's insulation, which comes with its own set of risks and requires annual checks and maintenance. If You Do Use Paint: 1️⃣ Regular Checks Painted surfaces should be inspected annually for cracks or damage to prevent moisture ingress. 2️⃣ Match Permeability It’s crucial to use paint that’s at least as impermeable as the layers beneath it. Many people mistakenly apply a permeable or semi-permeable paint over a damaged impermeable base layer. This creates a situation where water can be absorbed through the permeable layer but gets trapped behind the impermeable one covering absorbent bricks, causing damp, salt crystallisation and peeling. 3️⃣ Removing Non-Permeable Paint Stripping non-permeable paint, as you suggest, is a good idea if you’re looking for a long-term solution. A professional team like Thermo Tech can be a great choice for this. 4️⃣ Lime-Based Mortar and Coping Stones Repointing with lime-based mortar and ensuring coping stones are in good condition will improve both breathability and weather resistance, although there is limited benefit to lime mortar between bricks, especially if hidden behind a covering like paint. Related Videos: 👉 Damp from Trapped Moisture and Paint Layers: th-cam.com/video/QiAOjRe0NMw/w-d-xo.html 👉 Penetrating Damp - Three Victorian Flats: th-cam.com/video/50nyNTdIwT0/w-d-xo.html 👉 Hidden Damp Behind Painted Walls: th-cam.com/video/7XRKExtlUAQ/w-d-xo.html For more advice, check out damp.ai! Let me know how it goes-your approach sounds like a thorough solution! 🌟

Thank you for your comment! 😊 You're absolutely right-venting warm, humid air into a cold loft space is a recipe for trouble! 🌬️💧 Here’s why it’s such a problem: Risks of Venting Into Loft Space: 1️⃣ Condensation on Timbers Warm, humid air cools rapidly in the loft, often reaching the dew point. This causes condensation to form on cold surfaces, including timber, which can lead to rot, mould, and structural damage over time. 2️⃣ Increased Humidity A poorly ventilated loft can trap this moisture, creating an environment ideal for fungal growth and wood decay. 3️⃣ Heat Loss Pumping warm air into the loft is also an inefficient use of energy, leading to higher heating bills. Additional Problems with Venting Into the Loft: 📉 Ineffective Moisture Removal By venting into the loft, the vapour doesn’t leave the property. Instead, it recirculates and contributes to mould and condensation issues in the rooms below. This defeats the whole purpose of having an extractor fan in the first place! 🌫️ Increased Humidity Levels Indoors Without proper extraction, humid air lingers, raising the indoor dew point and increasing the risk of condensation on cold surfaces like windows, walls, and corners. Proper Ventilation Solutions: Direct Venting to the Outside Bathroom extractor fans should always be ducted to the exterior through proper channels like tile vents, wall vents, or soffit vents. Check Ducting Ensure ducting is straight, solid, and insulated to prevent condensation forming within the duct itself. Inspection Regularly check loft spaces for signs of dampness or mould, especially in colder months. Related Videos: 👉 Mould from Ventilation into Loft Blocked: th-cam.com/video/dAY9rBMEsX8/w-d-xo.html 👉 Damp Rear Extension Column Condensation: th-cam.com/video/KM6mJpHkFg0/w-d-xo.html 👉 Penetrating Damp from Overflowing Gutter: th-cam.com/video/kUQkGpfyP0s/w-d-xo.html For more tips and advice, check out damp.ai! Your experiences as an electrician clearly align with good building practices-thanks for sharing! 🔧

Thank you for the thoughtful comment! 😊 Recommended Damp Data Loggers: For tracking humidity, temperature, and dew point, I recommend the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer, Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Temperature Humidity Sensor. It's affordable and reliable for DIY use. You can find details and links to my recommended loggers here: 👉 damp.ai/detect/ Disused Chimney & Vermiculite Filler: I'm not entirely familiar with vermiculite as a filler for chimneys, but based on its properties (lightweight, insulating, and often vapour-permeable), it seems like a reasonable option. Here’s my general advice for insulating disused chimneys: 1️⃣ Vapour Permeability Ensure the filler material allows for some vapour permeability to prevent trapping moisture. This is critical to avoid condensation or dampness within the structure. 2️⃣ Avoid Completely Blocking Airflow While stopping excess airflow is fine, it’s usually best to allow for a small amount of ventilation at the top of the chimney. A vented cap can help reduce the risk of damp. 3️⃣ Inspect the Structure Before sealing or insulating, check for signs of existing damp within the chimney. These should be addressed beforehand to avoid future problems. Related Videos: 👉 Damp in the Fireplace - An Unwelcome Guest: th-cam.com/video/u-_xeMfUI0I/w-d-xo.html 👉 Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain Part 1: th-cam.com/video/HJR7MqbnRZ4/w-d-xo.html 👉 Hidden Damp - Water Stains Behind a Kitchen Cupboard: th-cam.com/video/QGz5GA5MCVQ/w-d-xo.html Feel free to share updates-I’d love to hear how your project goes! 🌟

Thank you for your thoughtful question! 😊 First up, focus on lowering the dew point by: 1️⃣ Targeted Ventilation: Ensure proper airflow in high-moisture areas like bathrooms and kitchens, and address drying clothes indoors effectively. 2️⃣ Dehumidification: Use a good-capacity dehumidifier to further lower the internal dew point. Aim to follow Dew's Law-keeping the internal dew point below the external temperature as much as possible. Learn more at damp.ai/dews-law. 🌡️💧 Once you've tackled the dew point, consider targeted insulation for solid walls. Here are some practical steps: For Solid Walls: 🧱 Targeted Insulation: Insulate corners and cold spots with vapour-active materials to avoid creating zones of trapped moisture. ✅ Materials like wood fibre or SpaceTherm are excellent choices, particularly for lower sections of walls (up to 600mm), as they allow moisture to dissipate naturally, reducing the risk of rot. 💡 For upper sections, you can use more cost-effective rigid insulation like Celotex, ensuring a hybrid approach that balances breathability and cost. For Suspended Timber Floors: 🌬️ Underfloor Insulation: Choose breathable solutions like wood fibre where timber is present to prevent moisture buildup and timber decay. 🔍 Monitoring Equipment: Use data loggers to measure humidity and temperature to ensure conditions remain stable in inaccessible voids such as the sub-floor and roof voids. Ceiling Insulation: ⬆️ Hybrid Solutions: Combine breathable materials near timber with standard insulation for cost efficiency, especially in loft spaces or ceilings adjacent to solid walls. I recently implemented a hybrid insulation approach in a similar project and plan to release a video on it once the property is complete-stay tuned! 🎥 For now, check out these related videos for inspiration: 👉 "Dew’s Law: Managing Internal Vapour": th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 👉 "Hybrid Insulation for Damp Zones": [coming soon!] If you try these methods, let me know how it works out-teamwork and shared knowledge are the best ways to tackle these issues! 🙌

Thank you for your comment! 😊 Instant grab adhesive should work well, but I’d recommend choosing a water-based adhesive to maintain the vapour permeability of the wood fibre insulation. This ensures the wall can still "breathe" and helps prevent condensation issues. 🌬️ Always test a small section first to ensure compatibility with both the wall surface and the insulation material. A good bond without compromising permeability is key! For more tips and advice on insulation and damp-proofing, check out damp.ai. Stay tuned for videos covering these topics in more detail! 🎥

Great idea! 🌟 Proper extraction makes a world of difference, especially over moisture-heavy areas like showers. Your inline fan setup sounds fantastic-ensuring proper airflow and preventing the window from steaming up is a game-changer. Possibly the worst case of mould and condensation I ever came across was caused by a hidden cannabis operation-a warm, humid tent with ultraviolet lights running 24/7. 🌿💡 The results were catastrophic for the property. I’ll publish the video on it one day-it’s a real cautionary tale! 👉 Stay tuned for more videos, and check out damp.ai for tips and tools on tackling damp and mould. 📽️

​@@dampsurveys Haha you're joking! I wouldn't have thought that there was an intersection between people who grow weed and people who are concerned about mildew forming in the corners of rooms!

The mould was😅 You're absolutely right-it’s hard to imagine someone cultivating their personal jungle while worrying about mildew in the corners of rooms. The irony is delicious, isn’t it? 🌿💧 But no, this wasn’t their flat-it was another bedsit in the same building! And yes, I’ve been to two properties affected by cannabis farms. The second one? Oh, just your average day: the building caught fire 🔥 (UV lights, you know-turns out they’re not just for vitamin D). The fire brigade arrived in style, water hoses blazing 🚒💦, and the poor neighbours were left with a few cubic meters of water in their basement. So now, instead of inspecting a lush green forest 🌳, I was up to my ankles in... let’s call it "moisture." A different kind of damp altogether! 😂 Fancy some detective work of your own? Explore more cases: 👉 "Damp from Neighbour's Cracked Render": th-cam.com/video/QvGHFtkXgNY/w-d-xo.html 👉 "Penetrating Damp Through Render Cracks": th-cam.com/video/-bgtJWxp4Fc/w-d-xo.html 👉 "Mould Growing Behind a Sofa": th-cam.com/video/sU_hzg1MLw8/w-d-xo.html 📖 Don’t forget to visit damp.ai for free resources and advice. Stay dry, stay sharp, and always suspect the unexpected! 🕵️‍♂️

@ Sounds like a great story and I think that would make an entertaining video!

Thank you-that’s very kind of you! 😊 When it comes to tackling humidity, condensation, and temperature, I like to keep it structured: 1️⃣ Ventilation 🌬️ - Targeted ventilation in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms is key. 2️⃣ Dehumidification 💧 - A 20L/day dehumidifier is essential, especially in high-moisture areas. 3️⃣ Heating 🔥 - Consistent and even heating reduces the risk of cold spots. 4️⃣ Insulation 🧱 - Insulate effectively, particularly around cold bridges and external walls. 5️⃣ Airflow 🌪️ - Keep furniture away from walls, open curtains, and ensure good circulation. 6️⃣ Data (Dew’s Law) 📊 - Always keep the internal dew point below the outside temperature. 👉 For more insights, check out **damp.ai**-it’s packed with free advice and resources. If you’re a surveyor, do sign up to help spread the right knowledge! 🚀 🎥 Suggested Videos: "Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law" → th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html "Mould in a Top Floor Flat-Why Ventilation Wasn't Enough" → th-cam.com/video/ecALpqwkMaw/w-d-xo.html "All Insulation, No Ventilation-The Condensation Catastrophe" → th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you'd like to dive deeper into any of these topics! 🌟

Insulation is not required to remove moisture from the atmosphere and improve Relative Humidity (RH). Only heating and ventilation improves RH. Insulation only improves the efficiency of heating and pushes the envelope for potential condensation further outward in a building away from occupants (which is irrelevant if RH is low anyway).

It was 22c in that bathroom… luxury!

@Mr_Sh1tcoin I understand what you're saying. I didn't mean that you can reduce humidity and moisture by increasing the insulation. To combat a condensation problem is a case of looking at the three elements of ventilation, heating and insulation, and mainly in that order. By improving the insulation you increase,as you say, the efficiency of the heating and you also increase the surface temperature of any internal surface but being mindful of possibility of interstitial condensation.

Thank you for the thought-provoking discussion! 😊 You're all touching on critical points, and it’s great to see the interplay between ventilation, heating, and insulation being debated. Let’s break it down: Insulation Risks and Limitations 🧱❄️ While insulation is vital for increasing surface temperatures and improving heating efficiency, it’s not without challenges: 1️⃣ Thermal Bridges - Even with insulation, certain areas like chimneys, eaves, sub-floors, reveals, corners, and edges can remain vulnerable to cold bridging. These areas tend to attract condensation and mould if overlooked. 2️⃣ Utilities - Cold water pipes, cisterns, cables, and ducting are common culprits for condensation if not insulated or managed properly. 3️⃣ Airflow - Insulation without sufficient airflow creates stagnant zones where condensation can form, such as behind tightly placed furniture like sofas or beds against external walls. The Role of Heat and Airflow 🔥🌬️ Insulation alone cannot solve damp and condensation issues. It needs to work in harmony with heat and airflow: When Away: If a property is left unheated with no airflow, even well-insulated areas can develop damp problems due to lack of ventilation. Insufficient Heat: Cold surfaces remain a risk without consistent heating, especially during colder months. Poor Airflow: Lack of circulation can lead to hidden damp spots, particularly in areas like behind furniture, curtains, or in corners. Why Dehumidification is Key 💧🌍 Dehumidifiers are often overlooked but can be the most cost-effective and eco-friendly solution: Cost and Efficiency: Dehumidifiers are cheaper to run compared to heating and ventilation systems, with no energy wasted. Bonus from Entropy: Dehumidifiers warm the air slightly as they operate, providing an effective boost to room temperature. Comfort and Warmth: A dry house feels warmer because dry air is easier to heat and maintain at a comfortable level. Placement is Critical: Position dehumidifiers near sources of moisture (e.g., drying clothes, bathrooms, or kitchens) or in problem areas prone to mould and condensation. Final Thoughts 🌟 A holistic approach works best-ventilation, heating, insulation, dehumidification, and airflow should complement each other. Monitor your home with tools like hygrometers and data loggers to ensure the internal vapour (dew point) stays below the outside temperature (Dew’s Law). 📽️ Suggested Videos: "Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law" → th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html "All Insulation, No Ventilation-The Condensation Catastrophe" → th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html "Damp from Sub-Floor and Poor Ventilation" → th-cam.com/video/vS8VkyB5sCU/w-d-xo.html 👉 For more, check out damp.ai for tips, tools, and videos to help manage damp and condensation effectively.

Thank you! 😊 I really appreciate the kind words. If you're looking for more advice or resources, check out **damp.ai**-it's built to share this knowledge and offer free guidance. Let me know if there's anything specific you'd like to discuss or learn about! 🚀

Thank you for your thoughtful question! 😊 My Take on Heated PIV Systems While I understand the appeal of heated PIV systems like the Nuaire model with filter bags, I’m not personally a fan. Here’s why: Why I Prefer Other Solutions Over PIV 1️⃣ Cost and Energy Efficiency 💸: Heated PIVs can be expensive to install and run due to heat loss, especially in colder months. The running costs are often higher compared to dehumidifiers, which return all their energy as heat with an additional 50% bonus from enthalpy. 2️⃣ Bungalows Are Unique 🏠: Bungalows have more external surface area relative to their habitable area, meaning they lose heat more quickly. This makes proper insulation critical. 3️⃣ Targeted Alternatives 🎯: I would use the funds you’re considering for a PIV system to focus on targeted insulation improvements, such as: Double-ply loft insulation 🪵 Cold water pipe insulation Wallrock thermal lining paper for cold external walls. Thermal Imaging: Invest in a thermal imaging camera (~£200) to identify cold spots effectively. Heat the house to about 10°C above the outside temperature for the clearest results. Steps to Improve Moisture Control in Your Bungalow 🛠️ Ventilation: Install a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan (with a 30-minute overrun). It works like a PIV but is more targeted and effective. Also, ensure your kitchen extractor fan is used during cooking. 💧 Dehumidifiers: Keep a 20-litre dehumidifier running 24/7, especially in problem areas like the bedroom. Drain it into a sink or similar when you’re away. 🌡️ Insulation: Start with the loft and walls. Consider External Wall Insulation (EWI) but research the installer thoroughly. Visit properties they insulated years ago and talk privately to the owners about their experience. 📊 Monitor Dew Points: Use data loggers to track indoor dew points and ensure they stay below the external temperature. This prevents condensation and mould. Related Videos You’ll Find Useful 🎥 "Mould and Condensation Near a PIV Fan": th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Dew’s Law Explained - The Science of Vapour": th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Thermal Imaging and Insulation Tips": th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Rising Damp Treatment: A Cover-Up, Not a Cure": th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html Let me know how you get on, or if you'd like more advice tailored to your setup. Stay tuned for more videos-I publish new content regularly! 📽️😊

Thank you for your comment! 😊 You’re absolutely right-modern living habits like drying clothes indoors and keeping heating low due to rising bills can ramp up damp levels and lead to condensation on windows and walls. The Solution? Follow Dew’s Law 🌡️💧 Dew’s Law helps manage moisture by keeping the internal dew point (the temperature at which air becomes saturated and condenses) below the external temperature. Here’s how: Steps to Follow Dew’s Law 1️⃣ Targeted Ventilation 🌬️: Use extractors in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms-these are the biggest sources of indoor vapour. Make sure fans are ducted out and functioning properly. 2️⃣ Dehumidifiers 💧: A 20L capacity dehumidifier placed near drying clothes or in problem areas can remove excess moisture. Plus, all the energy they use is released as heat, making them cost-efficient. 3️⃣ Insulation 🧱: Keep surfaces warm with double glazing, thermal curtains, or insulation to prevent condensation on cold spots like windows and walls. 4️⃣ Airflow 🌪️: Open curtains, avoid blocking walls with furniture, and ensure air circulates well in every room. 5️⃣ Monitor and Adjust 📊: Use a hygrometer or data logger to track humidity and dew point levels. Aim for 50%-60%RH to prevent condensation and mould. Useful Videos on Managing Damp 🎥 "Dew’s Law Explained - The Science of Vapour": th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "High Occupancy with Windows Closed": th-cam.com/video/duGIbKdeOok/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Vapour in the Night - A Case Most Curious": th-cam.com/video/ypXKyePX8SQ/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Mould and Condensation Near a PIV Fan": th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html Why This Matters By following Dew’s Law, you can manage moisture even with modern habits. It’s a balance of ventilation, dehumidification, airflow, insulation, and monitoring. This combination not only prevents damp but also reduces heating bills and improves your home’s air quality. Thank you for your comment! 😊 You’re absolutely right-modern living habits like drying clothes indoors and keeping heating low due to rising bills can ramp up damp levels and lead to condensation on windows and walls. The Solution? Follow Dew’s Law 🌡️💧 Dew’s Law helps manage moisture by keeping the internal dew point (the temperature at which air becomes saturated and condenses) below the external temperature. Here’s how: Steps to Follow Dew’s Law 1️⃣ Targeted Ventilation 🌬️: Use extractors in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms-these are the biggest sources of indoor vapour. Make sure fans are ducted out and functioning properly. 2️⃣ Dehumidifiers 💧: A 20L capacity dehumidifier placed near drying clothes or in problem areas can remove excess moisture. Plus, all the energy they use is released as heat, making them cost-efficient. 3️⃣ Insulation 🧱: Keep surfaces warm with double glazing, thermal curtains, or insulation to prevent condensation on cold spots like windows and walls. 4️⃣ Airflow 🌪️: Open curtains, avoid blocking walls with furniture, and ensure air circulates well in every room. 5️⃣ Monitor and Adjust 📊: Use a hygrometer or data logger to track humidity and dew point levels. Aim for 50%-60%RH to prevent condensation and mould. Useful Videos on Managing Damp 🎥 "Dew’s Law Explained - The Science of Vapour": th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "High Occupancy with Windows Closed": th-cam.com/video/duGIbKdeOok/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Vapour in the Night - A Case Most Curious": th-cam.com/video/ypXKyePX8SQ/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Mould and Condensation Near a PIV Fan": th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html Why This Matters By following Dew’s Law, you can manage moisture even with modern habits. It’s a balance of ventilation, dehumidification, airflow, insulation, and monitoring. This combination not only prevents damp but also reduces heating bills and improves your home’s air quality. Let me know if you have questions or want more tailored advice! 😊

Thank you for the comment! 😊 A dehumidifier is indeed a fantastic tool for managing moisture and improving air quality, but here are some important considerations to ensure you're getting the most out of it: Why Use a Dehumidifier? 1️⃣ Energy Efficient: All the energy used by a dehumidifier is released as heat, with a bonus of around 50% from enthalpy-similar to how a heat pump works. This means it warms the air as it removes moisture. 🔥💧 2️⃣ HEPA Filters: Many dehumidifiers include HEPA filters, which not only remove moisture but also filter out allergens, doing the job of a PIV fan without losing heated air to the environment. 🌬️✨ 3️⃣ Cost Savings: When used correctly, a dehumidifier can reduce the need for heating. For example, if you’re away, set the dehumidifier to drain into a sink and only heat the property to about 3°C to prevent frost. Saving money + saving the planet = win-win 🌍💸. 4️⃣ Targeted Use: Place the dehumidifier where it’s most effective: Near moisture sources like drying clothes. In areas prone to mould or condensation. Why Choose a 20L Capacity or More? A smaller capacity dehumidifier (10L or less) won’t keep up with the moisture load in most properties, especially larger homes or during winter. A 20L capacity is ideal for effective moisture control. Larger properties or areas with persistent mould might even benefit from multiple dehumidifiers. Pro Tips for Maximum Effectiveness 🛠️ Daily Routine: Make it a habit to empty the water tank daily. If you’re away, ensure it’s draining into a sink. 🌡️ Placement: Place it in problem zones-near drying clothes, in damp corners, or close to the source of mould. 📉 Monitor Humidity: Use a hygrometer to track the relative humidity (aim for 50%-60%). 🔄 Run Regularly: For vacant properties, set the dehumidifier to 70%RH to maintain moisture balance and prevent mould. Why It’s Better Than a PIV Fan PIV fans work by introducing fresh air into a property, but this can result in heat loss. Dehumidifiers, in contrast, retain heat and provide targeted moisture control without creating drafts. No installation hassle, and with HEPA filters, they also purify the air-bonus! 🏡✅ Useful Resources 👉 Learn more about dehumidifiers and damp management at damp.ai. 🎥 Check out these videos for related insights: 1️⃣ "Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan - What Could Go Wrong?": th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 2️⃣ "High Occupancy with Windows Closed": th-cam.com/video/duGIbKdeOok/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ "Vapour in the Night - A Case Most Curious": th-cam.com/video/ypXKyePX8SQ/w-d-xo.html By using a good dehumidifier, you’re not only protecting your home but also reducing your carbon footprint-and that’s something to feel good about when you sleep at night! 🌟💤 Let me know if you need help choosing the right one or setting it up. 😊

Thank you for sharing your story! I completely understand your frustration-tenant cooperation is crucial, but sometimes, they simply don’t have the knowledge or tools to manage damp and condensation effectively. While I agree in principle with what you’re saying, I’m a strong believer in data. Data loggers and AI analysis (see: damp.ai/detect) can help bridge this understanding gap between landlords and tenants. For tenants, cleaning vents or filters might seem daunting, especially if they’ve never done it before. It’s also worth questioning if it’s even legal for tenants to handle vent cleaning in wet zones, given the potential electrical risks. That’s why I advocate for a teamwork approach, where landlords and tenants work together: Landlord Responsibilities: ✅ Annual checks: Ensure vents and fans are clean, test airflow speeds, confirm a 30-minute overrun, and check external rainwater goods, tiles and render or paintwork for defects, check internal surfaces, for mould and condensation - spray anti-mould such as HG if applicable and show tenants how to do it themselves going forward. ✅ Dehumidifiers: Provide a 20-litre dehumidifier, ensure it’s working properly, and show tenants how to use it effectively. ✅ Sealant and grout cracks: Inspect shower and sink sealants and grouting for gaps or wear. ✅ Monitoring: Install data loggers (preferably Wi-Fi enabled) to remotely monitor RH, dew point, and temperature. Tenant Responsibilities: 💨 Always use the kitchen extractor while cooking. 🚪 Keep the bathroom door closed and run the fan for 30 minutes after a shower. 👕 Never dry clothes indoors without running a 20 litre per day capacity dehumidifier near the clothes. 🏠 If leaving the property vacant, set the dehumidifier to 70%RH and ensure it drains into a sink. 📈 Use the data logger provided to monitor and understand internal conditions. Recent examples from my surveys: I’ve seen so many cases where misunderstandings could have been avoided - here are some recent cases: 1️⃣ A military veteran from Afghanistan working for UK forces-unfamiliar with our damp climate-kept using the bathroom isolator to switch the extractor on and off. 2️⃣ A tenant from Belfast convinced the kitchen extractor wasn’t working but had never tested it - so never used it. 3️⃣ An Italian couple with two fridges next to cold water pipes, creating ideal conditions for condensation-how would they have known? Teamwork and cooperation between landlords and tenants are essential. Knowledge is power, and tools like data loggers make it easier to address issues collaboratively. AST tenancy contract Consider adding tenant responsibilities to the AST (Assured Shorthold Tenancy Agreement). Taking the time to clearly explain these responsibilities to every new tenant and conducting an annual review in the autumn ensures they not only understand what they need to do but it also provides you with documented evidence. Without this, tasks often go undone, and it’s much harder to succeed if disputes arise, especially in court. Tenant Responsibilities to Include in the AST: 1️⃣ Ventilation: Use kitchen and bathroom extractor fans whenever cooking or showering, and keep them running for 30 minutes after. 2️⃣ Clothes Drying: Never dry clothes indoors without using a dehumidifier. 3️⃣ Dehumidifier Use: When the property is vacant, set the dehumidifier to 70%RH and ensure it drains into a sink. 4️⃣ Airflow: Avoid blocking vents or placing furniture directly against cold walls. 5️⃣ Mould Cleaning: Wipe away any mould promptly using suitable products like mould sprays such as HG. 6️⃣ Reporting Issues: Inform the landlord immediately if extractor fans, dehumidifiers, or other moisture-related equipment stops working. It’s essential to document these discussions and have tenants sign an acknowledgment to demonstrate they were properly informed. A Cautionary Tale: I once represented a landlord whose tenant reported mould issues to the council. The property was a bedsit, part of a shared floor with three other bedsits connected by a common corridor. Investigations revealed that one of the neighbouring bedsits had a full-blown cannabis factory, complete with a large tent, hot ultraviolet lights, and constant water feeds. 🌿💡 This created extreme humidity, affecting the entire floor and causing widespread damp problems in the other units. Situations like this highlight the importance of regular inspections and staying proactive in addressing potential issues before they escalate. It’s not always the obvious source causing problems! For more resources and examples, visit damp.ai. 📚 And check out these related videos: 1️⃣ "High Occupancy with Windows Closed": th-cam.com/video/duGIbKdeOok/w-d-xo.html 2️⃣ "Condensation Across Property - Blocked Extractors": th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ "Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan - What Could Go Wrong?": th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html Let me know how it goes or if you’d like more advice! And stay tuned for this month’s videos covering similar cases-you’ll see how understanding and communication can make a huge difference. 🚀 Please tell everyone you know who could benefit, to come visit this channel: @dampsurveys on TH-cam: www.youtube.com/@dampsurveys

Wow, that's a classic case of missed basics! 😔 Before installing a PIV unit, the first step should always be to check whether the bathroom extractor fan is working properly and ducted to an external vent-not just into the loft. Unfortunately, your setup not only traps moisture in the loft but also recirculates it into the living space via the PIV. A double whammy for condensation and mould risk. 😩 Check out these videos for similar issues: 1️⃣ "Mould from Ventilation into Loft Blocked 🚫" 👉 th-cam.com/video/dAY9rBMEsX8/w-d-xo.html 2️⃣ "Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan - What Could Go Wrong?" 👉 th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ "Avoid Rising Damp Treatment and Heat Recovery Units" 👉 th-cam.com/video/buvTAunFh-c/w-d-xo.html 4️⃣ "Damp Proofing Increases Risk of Damp" 👉 th-cam.com/video/iuSq3T6hTvs/w-d-xo.html And Yes, use a roof tile is you can, or duct straight out of the wall. Let me know if you need tips on fixing this setup-I’ve seen plenty of cases like this and can offer practical advice. 💡 For more guidance, check out damp.ai! 🚀

🎄 Thanks for the comment-love the “icing on a Christmas cake” analogy! 😂 Yes, you’re absolutely right-it’s some sort of coating, and I genuinely think these are some of the worst offenders when it comes to causing damp issues. Slapdash indeed! Minor, often invisible cracks trap moisture, prevent evaporation, and create perfect conditions for condensation. Basically, they turn walls into a soggy sandwich. 🥪💦 For more examples of how coatings and renders can go wrong, check out these videos: "Gaps Filled in Rendered Wall Damp Continues": th-cam.com/video/nSb6nmDsgZI/w-d-xo.html "Damp Proofing Against Penetrating Damp": th-cam.com/video/GrjmlOwQIrI/w-d-xo.html 👉 For practical advice on damp, visit damp.ai and stay tuned-there’s a new video every working day this year! 🎥

Bodge over bodge

Thank you for your question! 😊 I use the FLIR One, which attaches easily to a phone and provides good results for its price. I’ve tried many of the cheaper models, and while some work well, they can be hit or miss. 🔍 Thermal Imaging Use Cases: Explaining why dampness is occurring by identifying thermal bridges. Detecting underfloor heating or pipework. Highlighting areas of potential heat loss. However, it’s important to note that a thermal imaging camera can’t easily tell if a wall is damp on its own. Its real strength is showing temperature differences that can help pinpoint moisture-related issues, like hygroscopic salts. These salts, because they’re in dynamic equilibrium with humidity, can appear as cold spots relative to the surrounding wall. 👉 Visit damp.ai for more resources on detecting and managing damp effectively. 🎥 Related Videos: "Dampness Caused by Fridge in Corner" th-cam.com/video/VcUVi_J1Yt0/w-d-xo.html "Damp Rear Extension Column Condensation" th-cam.com/video/KM6mJpHkFg0/w-d-xo.html "Comparing 3 Different Damp Types in a Victorian Flat" th-cam.com/video/00QsRBNBKM8/w-d-xo.html "Rising Damp Treatment: A Cover-Up, Not a Cure" th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html "Condensation Across Property Blocked Extractors" th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you need further advice on using thermal cameras! 🚀

Thanks for the comment! 😂 I totally get where you’re coming from-what I do could easily be called “the science of the bleeding obvious.” Measuring damp walls? Shocking revelation, right? 😅 But here’s the twist: common sense isn’t so common. If it were, there wouldn’t be a billion-pound industry convincing people to inject their walls with silicone or slap on slurry to “fix rising damp” in places like London-where rising damp is as real as unicorns 🦄. So yeah, my “obvious” approach is basically a public service announcement: Stop. Overthinking. Damp. Appreciate the laugh though! Got any better ideas? Let me know-I’ll make a video about it. 🎥✨ 👉 Check out damp.ai for more “obvious” solutions, and stay tuned for more videos-one every working day this year. 🎬

I think you're being deliberately cruel. So people dont have common sense, or just don't think a certain way. Just because something is obvious to you doesn't make it so for everyone.

Hence, this is NOT interstitial condensation.

Thanks for your thoughtful points! 😊 You’re absolutely right to highlight the potential issues with roof vents sitting below roof tiles-they can sometimes allow water ingress if improperly installed or damaged. In this case, I stayed in touch with the client to monitor the situation and learned that the damp occurred only in winter, not after summer storms. This led me to conclude that the damage to the vent was superficial and unlikely to cause a rainwater leak. These tile vent outlets are generally effective, in my opinion, when properly installed and maintained. Regarding the use of damp meters: I see them more as "dry meters." They help determine if a damp stain is actually dry and are invaluable for pinpointing the centre of dampness to trace it back to the root cause. While they aren't perfect and can give false positives (e.g., due to salts), they’re a helpful tool when used with other diagnostic methods. For more insights into tracing damp issues, check out these related videos: "Interstitial Condensation or Rainwater Ingress?" th-cam.com/video/7XRKExtlUAQ/w-d-xo.html "Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law" th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html "Penetrating Damp Through Render Cracks" th-cam.com/video/-bgtJWxp4Fc/w-d-xo.html Visit damp.ai for more tips and tricks! 📖

Thanks for your comment-you're absolutely right to question the accuracy and interpretation of readings like "999" on damp meters. These meters don’t measure actual moisture content but instead operate on an imaginary scale, with each manufacturer using their own calibration. I think of them more as dry meters-their real value lies in comparing relative readings across similar materials. For example: Relative Readings: I compare damp areas to known dry sections of the same wall, looking for significant differences. Mapping Dampness: The meters help me identify patterns and pinpoint areas of higher moisture to trace potential sources. As you rightly point out, a "999" reading doesn’t mean literal saturation (like dripping water or crumbling plaster). Instead, it could be influenced by factors like salts or the material's conductivity. Regarding carbide speedy moisture tests or gravimetric analysis, I don’t typically conduct these tests on site-they’re more suited to lab-based analysis. My focus is on diagnosing root causes with practical tools and methods that help homeowners address damp issues efficiently. For more on how I use damp meters and interpret their readings, check out: "Understanding Hygroscopic Salts and False Damp Positives" th-cam.com/video/me5-Dz910mI/w-d-xo.html "Tracing Damp to Its Root Cause" th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html Visit damp.ai for more resources! 🚀

@dampsurveys thank you for a vert reasoned reply. I agree with you that the meters are good for measuring where damp is low and is not a problem and then alerting to to areas where there could be dampness and a thorough analysis is needed - as you seem to do!! Do you know the Joint Statement on Damp in Traditional Buildings by RICS/PCA/ Historic England?

Thank you for your thoughtful response! 😊 I know the Joint Statement on Damp in Traditional Buildings by RICS/PCA/Historic England well and often refer to it: 👉 www.rics.org/profession-standards/rics-standards-and-guidance/sector-standards/building-surveying-standards/investigation-of-moisture-and-its-effect-on-traditional-building Unfortunately, despite its good intentions, it has been co-opted by the damp-proofing industry and is often used as a fig leaf to justify unnecessary and damaging treatments. Many of the original contributors have distanced themselves from it due to these misuses. I’ve spent years trying to change the practices of the damp industry, but the reality is that many companies still derive most of their profits from needless and misleading treatments, particularly rising damp proofing, which causes more harm than good. This is why I’ve taken a different approach: Transparency: Publishing my findings online and sharing them in videos. Empowerment: Building tools like damp.ai to help homeowners, landlords, and surveyors identify root causes without falling for industry traps. Proof by Example: Demonstrating through case studies and surveys that so-called "rising damp treatments" are in big cities, like London, always unnecessary and a scam. We can make progress together by raising awareness and amplifying the conversation. It’s a long road, but with more discussion and education, we can help prevent wasted billions and avoid turning lives upside-down with destructive misdiagnoses. Please feel free to share this and keep the discussion going-together, we can bring real change. 💪

Thanks for the comment! 😊 I completely agree-it’s shocking when ventilation is vented straight into the loft instead of outside. Sadly, I see this all too often, especially in tenanted properties where short-term fixes are prioritised over proper solutions. Blowing moist air into a loft is like setting up a mould farm-it traps vapour in a cold, enclosed space, leading to condensation, mould growth, and even structural damage. 🚫💧 For more examples of how improper ventilation causes major issues, check out: "Mould from Ventilation into Loft Blocked" th-cam.com/video/dAY9rBMEsX8/w-d-xo.html "Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan-What Could Go Wrong?" th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html "Multiple Damp Issues in Kensington Flat" th-cam.com/video/LjZgR5849HY/w-d-xo.html It’s vital that extractor fans are properly ducted out to the external air and checked regularly for blockages or leaks. A poorly vented fan not only fails to remove moisture but also creates new problems elsewhere. For practical advice on managing damp and mould, visit damp.ai. I’ve got more videos on the way-stay tuned! 🎥✨

I can.

Thank you for your question! 😊 Yes, it’s a Testo 417 anemometer, but the older version. I also use it with the optional funnels, although I rarely need them. Instead, I’ve modified it by gluing a rubber plunger to the back. This allows me to carry it easily, use it for most fans and in tight spaces, where the funnels simply wouldn't work. I reverse the anemometer when using it with funnels - then rely on the max function to see what the reading is - I've have the past lifted it to a 3rd story building using a monopole, but now do this with a lighter anemometer, the BTMETER BT-100 Digital Anemometer Handheld. Here’s a link to the Testo 417 anemometer model I use (here without the funnel): 👉 www.amazon.co.uk/Testo-0560-4170-Anemometer-large/dp/B00NG2ZHUC/ I would say, of all the tools I carry, the anemometer is the most important. While you can use paper to test for airflow, it’s often impossible to be sure without an anemometer. For example, I had a case today (which I’ll publish in a few weeks) where literally no air was coming out of the vent. The issue? A 2M flexible vent duct was crammed into a roughly 400mm gap between the inside and outside. These kinds of problems are invisible without proper testing. Let me know if you need further advice on using it or adapting it! 🚀

Thank you for sharing your experience! 😊 I’m with you on thermal lining paper-it can be a fantastic solution for certain damp and mould issues, especially those related to condensation. In fact, I recommended it to most of my clients today! However, I would advise using it in specific circumstances, as it’s not always the best solution for every property. While the claims of rapid warm-up and mould resistance are accurate in many cases, there can be increased wear and tear, particularly in homes with young children or high-traffic areas. It's worth weighing the benefits against the long-term maintenance required. Dropping the dew point below the outside temperature is crucial to reducing condensation and mould risk. This can be achieved with targeted ventilation (which might include PIV systems-though, as I’ve mentioned in other comments, there are notable downsides compared to other methods) or dehumidification. These approaches are at least as critical as insulation in addressing the root cause of dampness. Here are some videos that highlight PIV failures and insulation strategies: "Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan - What Could Go Wrong" th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html "All Insulation, No Ventilation - The Condensation Catastrophe" th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html "Condensation Across Property Blocked Extractors" th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html "Avoid Rising Damp Treatment and Heat Recovery Units" th-cam.com/video/buvTAunFh-c/w-d-xo.html "Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law" th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html I’ll be detailing the pros, cons, and best use cases for thermal liners in upcoming videos, based on real damp surveys. Stay tuned! 🎥 If you’re curious about other solutions or want to know more, check out damp.ai for additional resources and updates! For more tips and tools to manage damp and humidity effectively, visit damp.ai. 😊

Thank you for your comment! 😊 Do report back on your success-I’d love to hear how it works for you. Replastering alone indeed often fails to address hygroscopic salts effectively without the use of a proper salt inhibitor or separation, such as dry lining. Using damp-proofers' slurry, as many still do, can compromise the breathability of a wall. This means the wall loses its ability to absorb and release vapour, potentially leading to increased mould and condensation risks. As an analogy, compare breathing into a plastic bag versus a paper bag: 🌬️ A plastic bag can't absorb moisture, leading to visible condensation on the cold surface. 🌬️ A paper bag absorbs some vapour, reducing the buildup of moisture on the sides. Before applying the primer, make sure there’s no source of water, including: 🔍 Condensation 🔍 Penetrating damp 🔍 Leaks 🔍 Other triggers for hygroscopic salts release, such as recent replastering. Groundwater is very rarely the trigger, despite what some might claim (sorry, PCA and rising-damp proofers, but rising damp is exceptionally rare, if ever genuinely the root cause of hygroscopic salts being released into walls). It's generally better to apply the primer when you’re confident the wall is dry-ideally in the summer. Use two coats of Zinsser Cover Stain, ensuring a 300 mm overlap beyond the visible damp. The visible signs are often just the tip of the iceberg, with more salts beneath the surface. The trick is to cover enough to prevent visible signs of dampness without fully sealing the wall, as oil-based primers can inhibit breathability in the treated zone. This is especially true above ground level, where such treatment is typically necessary. 🎥 Suggested Videos on Hygroscopic Salts: 1️⃣ "Hygroscopic Salts by Victorian Shop": th-cam.com/video/me5-Dz910mI/w-d-xo.html 2️⃣ "Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain - Part 1": th-cam.com/video/HJR7MqbnRZ4/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ "Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain - Part 2": th-cam.com/video/cRVhGlNmT3I/w-d-xo.html 4️⃣ "Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain - Part 3": th-cam.com/video/KykkQ4u_siE/w-d-xo.html 5️⃣ "Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain - Part 4": th-cam.com/video/Ma9QP0RBvgI/w-d-xo.html For more guidance and advice on managing damp and salts, visit **damp.ai**-your resource for demystifying damp! 🏠✨

Thank you for your comment! 😊 Testing for a mains water leak is surprisingly simple and very important when dealing with dampness at the base of walls, spread across solid floors, or high relative humidity in the sub-floor (which may be causing condensation to form above the damp proof course and risks rot and woodworm). It's shocking that mainswater testing isn’t taught to PCA (Property Care Association) Damp Surveyors as part of their exam syllabus. Here’s how I approach it - firstly make sure everyone knows before hand that you are testing for a leak - it takes about 20 - 30 minutes and may need repeating, so fill kettles, use toilets etc in advance. Methods to Test for Mains Water Leaks: 1️⃣ Water Pressure Gauge: Turn off the stopcock and monitor for a drop in pressure. If the pressure drops, there’s likely a leak. 2️⃣ Tap Submersion Test: Place the end of a tap into a vessel of water. Turn the stopcock off and watch to see if water is sucked back into the tap. This is a quick and simple test that can be shown to clients, allowing them to replicate it easily. Shoutout to Mike Parrett for this technique-one I learned many years ago in one of this series of videos: "Diagnosing Damp: Water Leaks" th-cam.com/video/J8jiAj_my7I/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ Check the Water Meter: * If you have an analogue water meter, observe the dial-it’s highly sensitive to changes and can detect small leaks. * With digital water meters, monitor for usage over a long weekend when no water is being used. Additional Considerations: * Sub-floor Void Access: Finding the exact location of a leak may require entering the sub-floor and isolating sections by turning off a series of stopcocks. * Impact of a Water Tank: A tank can continue dripping when the water is turned off, which may complicate the diagnosis. * There may be multiple properties connected to the same stopcock, which can complicate diagnostics. * I often start testing at the roadside stopcock, as this accounts for the entire pipe running under the property and helps isolate any issues. * When testing for mains water leaks, it's essential to consider innocent reasons for a pressure loss that don’t necessarily indicate a leak. These might include: 🔍 Innocent Causes of Pressure Loss: 1️⃣ A running cistern (e.g., toilet cistern constantly flowing). 2️⃣ A dripping tap (indoors or outside). 3️⃣ A leaking shower head. 4️⃣ A flowing header tank. 5️⃣ Loss through cold or hot water systems. These considerations are part of a thorough diagnostic process to pinpoint the root cause of damp or pressure loss effectively. If you're interested in seeing this in practice, check out this video: 🎥 "Rising Damp Treatment - A Cover-Up, Not a Cure": th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html For more resources and techniques, visit damp.ai! 💧 Let me know if you’d like further clarification or additional resources! 🙌

Thank you for your question! 😊 The issue in this case was interstitial condensation. This happens when warm, moist air penetrates into a structure and cools as it travels, causing moisture to condense within walls, floors, or ceilings rather than on visible surfaces. Examples of Interstitial Condensation: 1️⃣ Insulated walls: Moisture can get trapped behind impermeable insulation layers, leading to dampness within the wall structure. 2️⃣ Flat roofs: Warm air inside a building rises, and if there is no proper ventilation or vapour barrier, condensation can form within the roof structure. 3️⃣ Cavity walls: Moisture-laden air can infiltrate a cavity and condense on the cooler inner wall surface. Key Indicators: 🔍 Damp patches that appear similar to rain but don’t necessarily align with rainfall timing. Humidity and the risk of interstitial condensation will increase in winter, especially after rainy periods, when humidity builds up, followed by cold snaps. 🔍 No visible water ingress, yet persistent dampness. 🔍 Insulated areas or impermeable layers: Occurs in areas insulated from the house's heat (or in unheated properties) or where modern renders, membranes, or old bitumen sarking are present. 👉 For more details on interstitial condensation, its causes, and how to manage it, check out damp.ai/. Suggested Videos: 🎥 "Hygroscopic Salts by Victorian Shop": th-cam.com/video/me5-Dz910mI/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Damp Proofing Efficacy - Rainwater": th-cam.com/video/8FxVqwZYtwo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Dampness Caused by Fridge in Corner": th-cam.com/video/VcUVi_J1Yt0/w-d-xo.html 🎥 "Damp Rear Extension Column Condensation": th-cam.com/video/KM6mJpHkFg0/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you'd like more information! 🙌

Thank you for your comment! 😊 I would say most dehumidifiers work well, especially those from reputable brands. I’ve personally tested 5-8 different types and found that many perform similarly in their capacity ranges. I plan to create a comparison video soon to break down the pros and cons of various models, so stay tuned! 🎥 For a 20L dehumidifier, it’s best to look for one with adjustable humidity settings and a continuous drain option if you plan to run it often. Setting it to 50-60% RH is ideal for most homes. A setting of 70% RH can work for general air circulation but won’t tackle persistent damp or mould as effectively. If you’re looking for a damp meter, I use the Dr. Meter 2-in-1 Moisture Meter, which is budget-friendly and effective for mapping out dry vs. damp areas. As for data loggers, I recommend the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer (around £20). It’s reliable for measuring temperature and humidity, and it syncs via Bluetooth for easy monitoring. You can find more at damp.ai/detect. Thanks again for the kind words and your support-more content is on the way! 📽️ 🙌

@dampsurveys thanks! Looking forward for the comparison video and keep up the good work 👌

Grazie mille! 😊 È il mio piacere! 🇮🇹✨ Sono molto orgoglioso di presentarti damp.ai, un sito web alimentato dall'intelligenza artificiale per rispondere alle domande nelle lingue più comunemente parlate nel Regno Unito. Sarebbe fantastico se potessi provarlo! 😊 Seleziona la bandiera italiana in alto a destra per chattare in italiano. Mi farebbe piacere sapere quanto bene funziona anche in altre lingue. Grazie mille! 🇮🇹✨

Thank you for such a detailed and thoughtful comment! 🙌 You’re absolutely correct that ventilation grills for timber sub-floors play a critical role in preventing timber decay through cross-ventilation. Blocking or removing them indiscriminately can indeed be risky, and as you pointed out, it’s essential to think holistically about how the building was originally designed versus how modern living conditions have altered its thermal and moisture map. Here’s my take on some of your key points: 1️⃣ Ventilation Grills for Sub-Floors: Cross-ventilation is critical for timber sub-floors, especially to manage stagnant air and moisture that could lead to timber decay. However, if there’s no measurable moisture source (e.g., no leaks or signs of condensation), temporary adjustments-such as reducing airflow during extreme cold-can be considered, provided it’s monitored regularly with a hygrometer or data logger. But I completely agree that this isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach and must be handled cautiously. 2️⃣ Modern Changes and Thermal Maps: You’re spot on about how modern adaptations, such as rendering, painting brickwork, central heating, and gypsum plaster, have significantly altered the original thermal and moisture dynamics of Victorian and post-Victorian buildings. These changes often lead to unintended consequences like sub-ground moisture accumulation or condensation risks. 3️⃣ Bathroom Extractor Fans and Ducting: Bathroom fans must meet the building's specific needs, especially regarding duct length and positioning. Many standard fans can’t effectively push moisture-laden air through long, complex runs, particularly vertical ducts like chimneys. Solid ducting with minimal bends is essential, and, as you said, flexi-ducting is even less efficient over distance. Building control officers increasingly expect solid ducting for this reason. 4️⃣ Mould Growth and Management: Mould requires the right conditions-moisture, stagnant air, and a suitable substrate-to grow. The best defence includes: Reducing moisture with targeted ventilation, heating, and dehumidification. Regularly wiping down prone surfaces (e.g., plaster, paint, and paper). Preventing stagnant air by maintaining airflow in problem areas (e.g., behind furniture or in corners). 5️⃣ The Bigger Picture: Your advice to view a building holistically and consider all modern changes (gardens, drainage, heating, etc.) alongside its original design is crucial. Every intervention needs to align with the specific building's needs, and understanding its history is essential for managing damp and mould effectively. 📽️ Suggested Videos: Here are some videos that touch on these themes: Respect Awaab's Law with Dew’s Law: th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html Mould and Ventilation: When Fans Fail: th-cam.com/video/_8Oek4DSC2k/w-d-xo.html Damp from Blocked External Ventilation: th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html Damp from Chimney Extraction Failures: th-cam.com/video/u-_xeMfUI0I/w-d-xo.html Why Mould Grows Behind Sofas: th-cam.com/video/uR60wceZLLY/w-d-xo.html For more resources and insights, check out **damp.ai**-and stay tuned for my upcoming book this summer! 📚 Let’s keep the discussion going-your insights are invaluable! 😊

@dampsurveys 👍🏼. There are points of discussion that i could elaborate on, but I'll save them for another post. It's all interesting. In terms of modern changes, whilst I'm not a fan of a gung ho approach with modern creams and retro damp proofing fixes, i have found positive input ventilation is a useful addition in some circumstances where there is high humidity providing there are higher efficiency extract fans also installed. So long as the positive input ventilation introduces warm air by heating it, especially in winter. A blast of cold air isn't the total solution many want. Useful bits of kit but only good for air coming 'in' if there is air going 'out'. Keeps the relative humidity at a controllable level.

I’ve Seen Many Failures with Both PIVs and Dehumidifiers 🌬️ PIV systems (Positive Input Ventilation) often fail because they don't target the source of vapour. I've encountered properties with mould and condensation issues despite having PIVs installed. On the other hand, dehumidifiers are only as effective as their placement and use, and the same applies to extractor fans (especially if doors are left open). Building Regulations and Common Issues 🏠 Whether or not a PIV or dehumidifier is installed, Building Regulations (Approved Document F) require: 1️⃣ Bathrooms (without an openable window): A mechanical extractor fan with an extraction rate of 15 litres per second (54 m³/h). 2️⃣ Kitchens: A cooker hood extractor fan with a minimum extraction rate of 30 litres per second (108 m³/h). Alternatively, an adjacent extractor fan with a minimum rate of 60 litres per second (216 m³/h) if no cooker hood is present. 3️⃣ Continuous Extract Fans (alternative to intermittent fans): Must achieve an airflow of 5 litres per second (18 m³/h) in bathrooms and 13 litres per second (47 m³/h) in kitchens, increasing airflow when humidity rises. Common Failures by Contractors Unfortunately, many contractors do not test the airflow rates of bathroom and kitchen extractors during installation or as part of a PIV system. This oversight often results in: Insufficient ventilation, leading to retained humidity and mould issues. Non-compliance with Building Regulations, despite seemingly adequate equipment. Ineffective performance, as PIVs only work well when paired with high-efficiency extractors. 💧The biggest problems are often related to: 💧Bathrooms 💧Drying clothes indoors 💧Open-plan kitchens My Preferred Approach I recommend continuous flow bathroom extractor fans combined with dehumidifiers. 🔧 To ensure consistent use, I prefer light switch-operated extractor fans in bathrooms and kitchens. These fans are quiet and include a 30-minute overrun, supplementing a standard kitchen hood extractor for better ventilation. 🛑 The main challenge is often not the equipment itself but how it’s used. Many occupiers fail to run extractor fans or dehumidifiers effectively, and this is where PIV systems-which run constantly-have some advantage. However, PIVs are expensive to operate, particularly with the loss of warmed air during winter. Follow Dew’s Law 🌡️ To manage internal vapour effectively: 1️⃣ Keep the internal vapour level (measured as dew point in °C) below the external temperature. 2️⃣ Achieve this with adequate ventilation and dehumidifiers. 📊 Monitoring Tools Use tools like: Habotest Hygrometer/Dew Point Meter HT607 SensorBlue app with ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer These accurately measure humidity levels and ensure optimal conditions. For more details, visit damp.ai/detect. Effective Mould Reduction Strategies 🛠️ Combine the following solutions for the best results: 1️⃣ Ventilation 2️⃣ Dehumidification 3️⃣ Airflow 4️⃣ Consistent Insulation 5️⃣ Consistent Heat ⚡ Monitoring is essential. While insulation reduces heat loss, some elements (e.g., cold water pipes, structural thermal bridges) will still pose risks. Heat should be consistent throughout the day, including when the property is unoccupied, for the best results. Suggested Videos 🎥 Here are some relevant videos to learn more: Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law: th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan: th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html Why Mould Grows Behind Sofas: th-cam.com/video/uR60wceZLLY/w-d-xo.html Dehumidifiers vs. PIV: Pros and Cons: th-cam.com/video/buvTAunFh-c/w-d-xo.html Condensation Across Property: Blocked Extractors: th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html Mould in a Top Floor Flat: th-cam.com/video/ecALpqwkMaw/w-d-xo.html Visit damp.ai for more tips and insights, and stay tuned for new content every weekday! 😊

@dampsurveys my point exactly. As I said PIVs can work but only if the extractor fans are efficient. Avoid Kitchen recirculators and always check the duct length. I refer to my over simplification of air in and air out for humidity removal to work or negative pressure occurs and nothing gets extracted. PIVs as standalone won't work. I am reiterating what I said earlier. But I also mention PiVs should be operated with warmed air. There are models that introduce warm air on thermostatic sensors. Having overseen the installation of these and measuring internal air humidity and inproving surface temperature of walls, they do work. But there is a process to making them effective. Dehumidifiers are a different story

Your point about PIVs requiring a process to work effectively is spot on. They can be a valuable tool when paired with efficient extractors, proper ducting, and thermostatic warming. For many homes, though, targeted ventilation and dehumidification remain more cost-effective and reliable solutions. For more on managing damp and humidity, visit damp.ai for resources and related videos. 📽️ Don’t forget, a video covering this very topic will be out soon! 🎥 I’ll be drawing video ideas from comments, so please share if there’s anything you’d particularly like discussed. Remember, I often see the failures-there may well be many successes that go unnoticed. Let’s keep the conversation going! 💬

Thank you for your comment and for pointing that out! 😊 You’re absolutely right that older buildings were often originally built with lime mortar, and in an ideal world, repointing would match this. However: 🧱 Paint Layers Matter: In cases where the walls are painted, they already create an impermeable layer. Consistency between the paint and mortar can sometimes be more beneficial than introducing lime mortar beneath a sealed surface. 🔨 Skilled Labour Challenge: Lime mortar specialists are increasingly rare. On one of my own projects involving a stone building, I negotiated with the builder to use a mix of lime and a small amount of cement for added strength. This compromise has worked wonderfully. 🌧️ Brick vs. Stone: While stone buildings require lime mortar to allow proper breathability and manage water flow, bricks have the advantage of being able to absorb and redistribute water more evenly. Plus, individual bricks can often be replaced discreetly and affordably, unlike stone. Thanks again for sharing your observation-it’s always great to discuss the best practices for maintaining older buildings! Feel free to check out damp.ai for more on topics like this and stay tuned for more videos! 🎥✨

Thank you so much for your kind words! 😊 It’s comments like yours that make all the effort worth it! 🙌 My mission is to help people understand and tackle the root causes of damp without falling into costly and unnecessary treatments. 💷❌ Knowledge is power, and the more we share accurate, evidence-based advice, the more we can protect people and their homes. If you ever have questions or want to share your experiences, I’m here to help! 🌟 Don’t forget to check out damp.ai for more tips and resources-I’ve got videos coming every working day this year, so stay tuned! 🎥✨

Thank you for your request! 😊 It would be an absolute honour to assist you! 🙌 Please note that we’re currently very busy, but I’d be delighted to help if I can. 🔗 You can find all the details and book an appointment here: dampsurveys.com/book/ A few things to keep in mind: 🕒 Availability: Due to high demand, appointments may have a bit of a lead time, so book early to secure your slot. 💷 Fees: We do charge a fee for surveys, reflecting the time and effort involved in providing detailed, root-cause-focused advice. If you have any specific concerns or questions before booking, feel free to drop a message-I’ll do my best to guide you! Let’s demystify damp together. 🌟

Thank you for your comment! 😊 I've tried around 40 different data loggers, but my preference is the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer, Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Temperature Humidity Sensor. You can find more details here: 👉 damp.ai/detect/ Direct link to purchase: ORIA Data Logger on Amazon (3 for £19.99). 🔍 Important Note: Like all data loggers, there’s a chance of receiving a dud unit. Calibration is essential-use saturated salt and water to achieve a controlled 75%RH environment. 💡 How I Use Them: 1️⃣ I ask clients to install the data loggers a week before the survey. 2️⃣ During the survey, I make adjustments based on the results. 3️⃣ I monitor changes over time to identify improvements and confirm the root cause of damp. If you're a RICS surveyor or a damp surveyor committed to finding the root cause of damp (rather than relying on chemical or slurry damp proofing), I’d encourage you to sign up for collaboration at damp.ai. Let’s improve the industry together! 🙌 I’d also love to hear about your findings-share your experiences! 🛠️ 👉 damp.ai

Same as mine; damp, old, Victorian end terrace! Great fun! I have learned a great deal along the way though, especially from youtube videos, such as this one. Just about got ours under control, I think.... Good luck with yours.

Thanks for your comment! 😊 I’m all about helping people solve the root causes of damp rather than covering it up with treatments like "rising damp" solutions or inappropriate cavity membranes. Here’s what I’d recommend as you prepare to tackle your Victorian end-terrace - a quick off the top of my head guide: Step-by-Step Damp Investigation Guide 🕵️‍♂️ 1️⃣ Buy a "Dry Meter" (Damp Meter) I recommend the Dr. Meter 2-in-1 Radio Damp Meter (around £23 on Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z1MS56X). Use it extensively in known properties to get a feel for how it works. Treat it as a relative meter, comparing numbers from dry sections of the wall. High readings (60%+ or 30 on the scale) might indicate damp, but watch out for false positives (e.g., dense materials like metal). Use the meter to mentally map the damp: Horizontal profiles suggest rising damp, floods, or condensation from solid floors. Centred damp usually points to leaks, heating issues, or condensation from specific sources. 2️⃣ Look for Clues 🕵️‍♀️ Brown stains: Water passing through materials. Mould: Usually points to poor ventilation. Hygroscopic salts: Often from historic coal burning or animal waste. Look for isolated patches about 1m up from the floor or around chimneys. Damp-proofing marks: Small dots at the base of walls and ridges in plaster at 1-1.3m suggest past treatments but may signal unresolved sources of damp. Watch related videos: Rising Damp Myths: th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html Identifying Hygroscopic Salts: th-cam.com/video/McrWJgu9mMc/w-d-xo.html 3️⃣ Avoid Rising Damp Treatment 🚫 I’m totally against rising damp treatment because groundwater is so rarely the actual cause of damp at the base of walls. If you do suspect rising damp, drill down 1 metre and check for even free water-but as a buyer, you’d need professional help to avoid hitting cables or pipes. Never rely on a free "damp survey" offered by damp-proofing companies. They’re almost certain to diagnose "rising damp" and recommend damaging treatments like: Injecting silicone or siloxane. Replacing plaster with impermeable slurry. This approach hides damp, damages the property, and can lower its value. Always hire an independent damp surveyor via: trustedtraders.which.co.uk Checkatrade.co.uk 4️⃣ Check External Drains & Gutters 💧 Look for blocked drains, large plants near drains, or signs of overflow. During or after rain, inspect gutters for signs of blockages or improper water flow. Watch this video on drain issues: th-cam.com/video/8PHsAEAESJY/w-d-xo.html 5️⃣ Test for Leaks 🚰 Check the street water meter when no water is being used. If the dial moves, you may have a leak. 6️⃣ Test Extractor Fans 🌬️ Use a piece of A4 paper outside the fan outlet to test airflow. Compare to a property with a working fan. Related video: th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 7️⃣ Sub-Floor Check 🔍 Use a hygrometer probe (£5 on Amazon) to monitor humidity through floorboards if you have a suspended timber floor. 8️⃣ Consult an Independent Damp Surveyor 📋 If you suspect damp, consider hiring an independent damp surveyor. I’m starting to list trusted surveyors on damp.ai. Unfortunately, I currently only work in London. 9️⃣ Chat With Neighbours 🏘️ If worried, knock on neighbours’ doors and politely chat with them. It’s good to know if they’ve experienced damp issues. Be courteous-word will get back to the vendor. 🔟 Ask the Vendor Questions ❓ Vendors are legally required to disclose any past damp-proofing or damp-related issues. 1️⃣1️⃣ Photograph Everything 📸 Take plenty of pictures, especially of the roof, drains, and walls. For more tips, visit 👉 damp.ai. 📖 Stay tuned for my upcoming homebuyer guide, coming in a few weeks! 🎥 I post new videos every working day-subscribe, like, and comment to stay informed! 🙌

Thank you for your comment and for sharing your experience-your property sounds fascinating and full of challenges! 🏡🌱 Bamboo: You’re absolutely right about the two types of bamboo. Runners can indeed wreak havoc if left unchecked, while clump-formers are generally less invasive but still need careful management. Given that all bamboo varieties thrive in moist soils, their proximity to a house can indeed be a concern, especially if roots contribute to water retention near the foundations. Bamboo roots may not be as deep as Japanese Knotweed, but they can still cause issues with drainage and stability if left uncontrolled. Flooding and Air Bricks: It’s great to hear about your property’s inclusion in the Property Flood Resilience Scheme! The idea of flood-resistant doors and self-closing air bricks is very promising. 🚪🌊 Self-closing air bricks can help reduce the risk of water ingress while maintaining airflow to the sub-floor. Your concern about water traveling through the soil and under the foundations into the floor void is valid. If the soil becomes saturated during heavy rainfall, hydrostatic pressure could push water into the sub-floor void or even through permeable areas of the walls. Suggested Monitoring: To better understand the humidity and damp dynamics in your property, I recommend getting four data loggers: 1️⃣ Next to the damp(set) wall: To monitor surface humidity and temperature. 2️⃣ By the nearest source of vapour (e.g., kitchen or bathroom): To check the vapour contribution. 3️⃣ In the sub-floor (away from air bricks): To understand the underfloor environment’s humidity and temperature. 4️⃣ Outside (away from direct/indirect sun, rain, and pests): To establish a baseline for external conditions. Use the data loggers alongside the damp.ai Detect Tool: 👉 damp.ai/detect/ This will help you interpret the results and determine whether your floor void is experiencing unusual humidity spikes due to soil water or air movement. Additional Thoughts: It’s worth investigating: Whether the solid floor in one room has adequate damp-proofing. How your sub-floor ventilation compares with current Building Regulations. Whether the funding scheme might also consider sump pumps or Aco drains to address soil water infiltration. Thank you for your kind words about my surveys-there’s always something new to learn from real-world cases like yours! If you’d like to explore further, stay tuned for more videos, and feel free to share updates on your journey. 📽️✨

Thanks for sharing, Stan! 😊 You’re absolutely right-redundant air bricks can lead to heat loss and create cold spots, exacerbating damp issues if they’re no longer functional. Your approach to tackling the issue with a combination of dehumidification and repairing the underlying faults is commendable! 🛠️💧 Even air bricks under suspended timber floors aren’t always necessary if there’s no excess sub-humidity, but this comes with a critical warning: monitoring is key. 🌡️ If someone decides to block them temporarily (e.g., during cold spells), I’d strongly advise: ✅ Weekly monitoring of sub-floor humidity using a hygrometer probe or data logger. ✅ If there’s a humidity spike, check for the root cause of damp, such as a rainwater, waste or mains pipe leak (see 👉 damp.ai). ✅ Unblock air bricks immediately if needed to prevent the risk of rot. For my own home, I might experiment carefully with this, but for a client, I’d only recommend it if I was confident they’d monitor it regularly and acknowledge and understand the risks. The risk of rot, as well rising damp like symptoms from dampness or condensation in the sub-floor ventilation are simply too high and expensive to ignore. For more practical advice and case studies, visit 👉 damp.ai. 📖 My book is coming this summer with even more insights. 🎥 Don’t miss my daily video uploads-like, comment, and subscribe to join the conversation! 🙌

@@dampsurveys Looking forward to your book. Will it be available in ebook format?

Yes - that is the plan - do put forward subjects to explore!

Glad it was helpful! Don't forget to subscribe, comment and like - visit damp.ai for advice.

Thanks for the comment! 😊 Even if the patio level were high-and I’d need to review the files to confirm-there was no tell-tale evidence of water penetration, such as a brown stain from pigmentation being drawn through the brick. The main issue here was condensation, including visible "sweating" on plastic surfaces in the conservatory, which points to internal moisture and ventilation challenges rather than external water ingress. 💧🏠 💡 Want to learn more about tackling damp and condensation? Visit 👉 damp.ai for insights, tools, and tips! 📖 Exciting news! I’m releasing a book this summer that dives deep into these topics. Stay tuned! 🎥 And don’t forget-I’m uploading new videos every working day this year. Subscribe, like, and comment to stay informed and join the conversation! 🙌

Thanks for the comment! I completely agree-targeted ventilation combined with dehumidification can be incredibly effective, especially when a property is left empty and unheated. While trickle vents and wood burners are great for improving airflow, adding proper ventilation and managing humidity levels with a dehumidifier ensures that water-laden air has somewhere to go, preventing condensation on cold surfaces. 🌬️💧

Thank you, Stan, for sharing such an insightful and relatable story! 😊 It’s fascinating how the environment inside a home can dramatically change both the house itself and its contents. The sticky plastic and internal fungus on lenses are classic signs of prolonged high humidity. The fact that the mould started to grow on the wooden kitchen units after the house dried out suggests significant moisture had been absorbed into the wood. Combined with the natural hygroscopicity of timber, this created a microenvironment favourable for mould, even as the larger environment dried. It’s amazing how houses can “breathe” and heal once proper airflow is restored-but it takes time and often a warm summer. Here are some videos you might find interesting: 🎥 Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 All Insulation, No Ventilation: The Condensation Catastrophe th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation Across a Property with Blocked Extractors th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation and Hygroscopic Salts in a Victorian Rented Property th-cam.com/video/J9XacxdnSvk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan: What Could Go Wrong? th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html I’ll be covering even more of these topics in my upcoming book, which I plan to release this summer. Stay tuned! 📖✨ For more information and resources, visit 👉 damp.ai. Thanks again for your comment-it’s always great to hear how people’s experiences align with what I cover in the videos! 🙌

Great question! 😊 I could give a simple answer: the common culprits are bathrooms (especially when leaving doors open), cooking without extractors or lids on pots, fans not being used effectively, drying clothes indoors without proper ventilation, and the increased moisture load from working from home. Condensation on windows, even with ventilation and a running dehumidifier, can be tricky to manage. Here are 7 key ways to deal with extreme damp and condensation: 1⃣ Targeted Ventilation 🌬 Ventilating bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms is critical. Perfect ventilation would mean the inside air matches the outside air in vapour content, making the internal dew point equal to the external dew point. Since the outside dew point can never exceed the outside temperature (it would rain, bringing the dew point down), good ventilation helps reduce condensation risks. However, there are exceptions: the inside temperature (or the interstitial temperature within walls) can sometimes be below the outside temperature, such as during rapid external warming near a sea or moisture source. This can lead to condensation when ventilated, humid external air meets colder internal surfaces like windows or dense materials (stone, glass, or metal). Furthermore, ventilation in an unheated property will mean that there will be periods of condensation and in zones prone to high humidity (most of the UK), mould will be a risk. So ventilation is rarely sufficient by itself, with heat or dehumidification. While proper airflow and rapid humidity changes can help prevent mould, full ventilation is often uneconomical unless paired with heat and well-designed heat recovery systems - which have their own challenges. 2⃣ Heat 🔥 Heating is essential but can create zones of heat loss or areas with poor airflow, making it costly and sometimes inefficient. It should always be paired with good ventilation and insulation, really with dehumidification. 3⃣ Insulation 🧱 Double glazing and insulating walls reduce cold surfaces but can create cold spots behind cupboards or furniture if airflow isn’t maintained. Installation costs can also be high. Insulation needs heat or dehumidification. 4⃣ Dehumidification 💧 In my experience, a 20-litre minimum capacity dehumidifier is a must for small properties, with additional units for larger spaces and desiccant dehumidifiers below 8 - 10°C. Dehumidifiers should be placed near the source of vapour or in areas prone to condensation and mould, you need air flow, so keep doors open other than a source of vapour. 5⃣ Airflow 🌪 Good airflow is vital and can be improved by: 🌪Opening curtains and shutters. 🌪Keeping furniture away from cold walls. 🌪Using fans to enhance circulation. 🌪Closing doors to humid rooms (with vented gaps below). 6⃣ Managing Mould 🧴 Accepting some degree of dampness and mould is inevitable, even palaces and space stations have some degree of mould and condensation, but addressing it promptly is key: 🧴wipe away mould with bleach, mould sprays, or vinegar. 🧴Use HEPA filters to improve air quality. 7⃣ Follow Dew’s Law 🌡💧 Monitor internal dew points and aim to keep them below the outside temperature whenever possible. This works well except during long periods of sub-zero temperatures, which require a combination of insulation, heat, and ventilation. Learn more about Dew’s Law here: 👉 damp.ai/dews-law Interesting Fact 🚀 I once had a client who headed an international space agency. Astronauts on the space station are trained to search for and clean mould daily-because even in space, condensation and mould are inevitable! And yes they can only use dehumidifiers, insulation, airflow and heat, so chance of ventilation. Understanding and managing moisture is key. Here are some videos that might help: 🎥 Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html 🎥 All Insulation, No Ventilation: The Condensation Catastrophe th-cam.com/video/QxX7Bx5k008/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation Across a Property with Blocked Extractors th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan: What Could Go Wrong? th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation Dribble Marks Explained th-cam.com/video/7XRKExtlUAQ/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Why Does Rising Damp Treatment Cause Mould and Condensation? th-cam.com/video/fjH9QQRAYXY/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation and Hygroscopic Salts in a Victorian Rented Property th-cam.com/video/J9XacxdnSvk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Damp from Cold Steel Supporting Column th-cam.com/video/NX2VsvrUk2g/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Hygroscopic Salts Triggered by Rain (Part 1) th-cam.com/video/HJR7MqbnRZ4/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation and Vapour Risks in Victorian Flats th-cam.com/video/aCDmCv7Mejo/w-d-xo.html Please visit 👉 damp.ai for more resources. I’ll also be writing a book on this topic in the summer-stay tuned! 📖✨

@@dampsurveys . Excellent summary Simon, thanks. Constant battle against condensation during the winter months but slowly winning the fight with your videos and advice.

Great question! 😊 I like to think of damp meters more as "dryness meters". They’re excellent for showing if a wall is drying out, providing confidence that your efforts are working. It’s worth noting that walls typically dry from the top down-similar to how clothes dry, with gravity pulling moisture downward. Conversely, damp usually builds up from the bottom upwards, which is why some people mistakenly label any damp at the base of a wall as rising damp. For a reliable and affordable option, I recommend the Dr. Meter (around £23). It’s a contactless radio frequency damp meter, which avoids the issues of pin meters (like salts causing false positives). You can find it here: 👉 www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z1MS56X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 If you’re dealing with damp or curious about how damp meters work, these videos might be helpful: 🎥 Rising Damp Treatment: A Cover-Up, Not a Cure th-cam.com/video/iSpecL_3aFE/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Damp Déjà Vu: When Proofing Merely Displaces Damp th-cam.com/video/8PHsAEAESJY/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation and Hygroscopic Salts in a Victorian Rented Property th-cam.com/video/J9XacxdnSvk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Condensation Across a Property with Blocked Extractors th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Why Does Rising Damp Treatment Cause Mould and Condensation? th-cam.com/video/fjH9QQRAYXY/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you have more questions or need additional advice-I’m happy to help! 🙌 I plan to write a book in the summer, stay tunes and visit damp.ai

I completely agree-stepped lead flashing with soakers underneath is a belt-and-braces approach, especially for areas where rainwater is funneled onto a section of roof adjoining a wall or other critical points. This ensures better protection against water ingress. Of course, rainwater shouldn’t funnel onto such areas in the first place. Homeowners should regularly check their rainwater goods (e.g., gutters, downpipes) to ensure they’re functioning correctly. I recommend inspecting them every six months, ideally in autumn (to clear leaves and debris) and spring (to prepare for summer storms). Here are some videos that might be helpful: 🎥 Penetrating Damp from Overflowing Gutter Made Worse by Gaps in Flashing th-cam.com/video/kUQkGpfyP0s/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Rainwater Flowing Off Front Driveway th-cam.com/video/s-y9pDevzho/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Gaps Filled in Rendered Wall but Damp Continues th-cam.com/video/nSb6nmDsgZI/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Penetrating Damp Three Victorian Flats th-cam.com/video/50nyNTdIwT0/w-d-xo.html Proper maintenance and installation are crucial to avoiding long-term issues. Let me know if you have further questions or need more advice! 😊

yeah but that's not the cause of the damp so irrelevant.

@@slashingbison2503 Highlighting a potential leak during a survey isn’t irrelevant unless you did the roof job

I completely agree-there’s a significant education gap when it comes to implementing effective ventilation strategies, especially with the rise in retrofitting projects. This is an issue that vexes me deeply, as proper ventilation could solve so many problems that are often misdiagnosed as rising damp. If we took a few straightforward steps, the rising damp industry could largely disappear: 1️⃣ Extractor Fans with Higher Flow Rates: Fans should be factory-set to at least 20 l/s, ensuring the end result meets the standard 15 l/s even after factoring in potential losses from ducting. 2️⃣ 30-Minute Overrun with Backup Power: Manufacturers should offer a product that includes a battery-powered overrun. I’ve seen one product that achieves this, but the lack of adoption is frustrating-especially since running an extra lead for the overrun often costs 5-10 times more in labour than the fan itself. 3️⃣ Testing Airspeed at the Outlet: Exit airspeed should be measured to verify the fan and ducting are functioning as intended. Too often, fans are installed without checking the flow rate, leading to a false sense of effectiveness - and surveyors hardly ever check the speed at the fan, let alone the outflow. These simple measures could dramatically improve ventilation in properties and reduce issues like condensation, mould, and misdiagnosed rising damp. It’s time to start viewing ventilation as a critical part of a home’s health, to be checked by homebuyer and other surveyors-not an afterthought. For more insights into ventilation and damp, check out these videos: 🎥 Condensation Across a Property with Blocked Extractors th-cam.com/video/0yKzQWIqjOk/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Damp and Mould Next to a PIV Fan: What Could Go Wrong? th-cam.com/video/7IkEncsgwUU/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Respect Awaab’s Law with Dew’s Law th-cam.com/video/MMJeqjAWtSo/w-d-xo.html Let’s hope the industry takes steps toward requiring certification and better ventilation strategies-it’s long overdue. Let me know your thoughts! 🙌

@ simple fixes! There will be a balance of noise and running costs. I’ve found it interesting to see the exposure Envirovent has done on other manufacturers. It’s eye opening how ineffective some can be, especially when ducting is involved. First time I’ve heard to the battery over-run. Great idea.