😂 I try to avoid unnecessary impact on the wall - but I appreciate the enthusiasm! I primarily use a radio frequency damp meter because it allows me to: 1️⃣ Identify dry areas on the wall. 2️⃣ Profile damp patterns - checking if moisture dips into window/door reveals, cold corners, or comes from a central point. 3️⃣ Trace damp sources like leaks. 4️⃣ Compare findings with RICS surveyors or damp-proofers who often default to "rising damp" diagnoses, even when the cause might be condensation, leaks, penetrating damp, or hygroscopic salts (e.g., from a chimney). 5️⃣ Monitor drying progress 📈 - helping clients stay motivated to follow recommendations. 🛠️ I only use conductance-type meters occasionally because they: Leave small holes in the wall. 🕳️ Are prone to errors. ❌ Are better for detecting surface condensation rather than damp deeper in the wall. Always aiming for thorough investigation with minimal intrusion! 🕵️♂️🏠 Thanks for the laugh! 😄
Thank you for your comment! 😊 It’s hard to say whether the properties I survey are representative of typical damp issues or if I’m more often called to investigate the most challenging cases-given my costs and lead times, it’s likely the latter. That said, I’d estimate that roughly 20% of the properties I visit each week have bathroom fans that aren’t ducted out properly. Common issues include fans terminating in lofts, walls, ceiling voids, capped chimney breasts, or blocked backflow shutters. It’s quite sad-I once worked with a lady who experienced terrible damp issues after spending £500,000 on redecoration. The problem? Both her bathrooms extractor fan ducts were connected, and the outside vent had been painted over, effectively sealing it. As for kitchens, I’d estimate that around 40% of the properties I survey have kitchen extraction fans that aren’t ducted out properly, despite it being a building regulations requirement since 2012. Even in new builds, ventilation standards often aren’t met-up to 80% by some estimates. While most new builds do duct fans outside, it’s not always the case, and checking the flow rate from the outlet (especially on upper floors) can be tricky. Checking the flow rate from ventilation outlets is essential for ensuring adequate ventilation, yet it’s overlooked by almost all surveyors. Let me know if you’d like advice on how to check or improve your home’s ventilation! 🙌
Thanks for the feedback! 🙌 You raise a good point - unnecessary impact on the wall should be avoided. I primarily use a radio frequency damp meter because it allows me to: 1️⃣ Identify dry areas on the wall. 2️⃣ Profile damp patterns - checking if damp originates from a central point, dips into window/door reveals, or cold corners. 3️⃣ Trace damp sources like leaks. 4️⃣ Compare findings with RICS surveyors or damp-proofers who often default to "rising damp" diagnoses when the root cause could be condensation, leaks, penetrating damp, or hygroscopic salts (e.g., from a chimney). 5️⃣ Monitor drying progress - helping clients stay motivated to follow recommendations. 📈🛠️ I only occasionally use conductance-type meters because they: Leave small holes. Are prone to errors. Are better suited for detecting surface condensation rather than damp deeper in the wall. I appreciate your input and always strive to balance thorough investigation with minimal intrusion! 🕵️♂️🏠
Good video, needs more slapping the wall with your big tool. 😂
😂 I try to avoid unnecessary impact on the wall - but I appreciate the enthusiasm!
I primarily use a radio frequency damp meter because it allows me to:
1️⃣ Identify dry areas on the wall.
2️⃣ Profile damp patterns - checking if moisture dips into window/door reveals, cold corners, or comes from a central point.
3️⃣ Trace damp sources like leaks.
4️⃣ Compare findings with RICS surveyors or damp-proofers who often default to "rising damp" diagnoses, even when the cause might be condensation, leaks, penetrating damp, or hygroscopic salts (e.g., from a chimney).
5️⃣ Monitor drying progress 📈 - helping clients stay motivated to follow recommendations. 🛠️
I only use conductance-type meters occasionally because they:
Leave small holes in the wall. 🕳️
Are prone to errors. ❌
Are better for detecting surface condensation rather than damp deeper in the wall.
Always aiming for thorough investigation with minimal intrusion! 🕵️♂️🏠
Thanks for the laugh! 😄
Second of your videos where the hob extraction fan is going nowhere. Quite amazing .
Thank you for your comment! 😊
It’s hard to say whether the properties I survey are representative of typical damp issues or if I’m more often called to investigate the most challenging cases-given my costs and lead times, it’s likely the latter.
That said, I’d estimate that roughly 20% of the properties I visit each week have bathroom fans that aren’t ducted out properly. Common issues include fans terminating in lofts, walls, ceiling voids, capped chimney breasts, or blocked backflow shutters. It’s quite sad-I once worked with a lady who experienced terrible damp issues after spending £500,000 on redecoration. The problem? Both her bathrooms extractor fan ducts were connected, and the outside vent had been painted over, effectively sealing it.
As for kitchens, I’d estimate that around 40% of the properties I survey have kitchen extraction fans that aren’t ducted out properly, despite it being a building regulations requirement since 2012. Even in new builds, ventilation standards often aren’t met-up to 80% by some estimates. While most new builds do duct fans outside, it’s not always the case, and checking the flow rate from the outlet (especially on upper floors) can be tricky.
Checking the flow rate from ventilation outlets is essential for ensuring adequate ventilation, yet it’s overlooked by almost all surveyors. Let me know if you’d like advice on how to check or improve your home’s ventilation! 🙌
Honestly, your assessment might be correct but stop slapping your clients wall with your tool. Its unnecessary.
Thanks for the feedback! 🙌 You raise a good point - unnecessary impact on the wall should be avoided.
I primarily use a radio frequency damp meter because it allows me to:
1️⃣ Identify dry areas on the wall.
2️⃣ Profile damp patterns - checking if damp originates from a central point, dips into window/door reveals, or cold corners.
3️⃣ Trace damp sources like leaks.
4️⃣ Compare findings with RICS surveyors or damp-proofers who often default to "rising damp" diagnoses when the root cause could be condensation, leaks, penetrating damp, or hygroscopic salts (e.g., from a chimney).
5️⃣ Monitor drying progress - helping clients stay motivated to follow recommendations. 📈🛠️
I only occasionally use conductance-type meters because they:
Leave small holes.
Are prone to errors.
Are better suited for detecting surface condensation rather than damp deeper in the wall.
I appreciate your input and always strive to balance thorough investigation with minimal intrusion! 🕵️♂️🏠