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excellent video! Thank you!

Have an A1 ams lite. And NO multicolour is definitely Not worth it. Takes forever uses a ridiculous amount of filament and As we all (or realy should by now..) Know.... Is that printed filament colors are weak and Dull... Vibrant they are NOT. MUCH easier and FAR better results when one paints their models.

Mine only doesn't stick in one corner. I've leveled it like 10 times and still same spot every time it doesn't stick all the way.

I’ve had my Ender 3 operating for 9 days straight after being in a basement closet for 3 years. The build plate had one part not letting the first layer stick so I just washed it with dish detergent and hot water. Now it’s back in business. Thanks so much for the great tips!!!! I haven’t used glue sticks yet, but leveling definitely helps!

my always melts to a blob and sticks to the nozzel

i bought files and i have the ender 3v3 se with nebula pad and can not get it to work so dont think the file works with nebula pad (-

washing was a great idea

Should I level it hot or cold? If hot, hot hotend or hot bed? Everybody talks about the same thing on every video, but I never get my answers.

Nİce information,Thank you

Useless video and absolutely useless website in video discretion, tons of water, and defolt information that u can find absolutely everywhere... I saw 0 words about ur acceleration and jerks. Did u know that u can set 1mm/s² acceleration and 100000000000mm/s speed and print with good quality because with this accel ur printer can't reach even 300 mm/s?

time is a cost and if it takes time to paint then its probally equall

Amazing video, very thorough, learnt very much, very useful

People make a big deal out of the poop quantity but the issue for me is more the increased print time.

The waste could all but be eliminated by including 4 nozzles in the head. There is already a 4 channel extruder there. Yes it would be a little more expensive up front, but the payback would be fairly quick. Is the Bambu software open or proprietary? If it is open, that would be a great third-party add-on for someone to get rich on quickly. I mostly will use mine to print "gadgets" around the house when spare parts for things cannot be purchased. I am not really interested in printing $15 toy figures or $100+ dollar helmets, etc. I guess if that's your thing, then so be it. But to me, there is a practical side. Some things are better purchased outright or made in other ways. I am a woodworker as well so I can make some things much more cheaply with wood than by 3D printing.

I got a new printer, and instead of a blobby seam, i get an anti-seam, where the radius of point A and B would just touch perfectly, but leave a rift. Coasting doesn't help, because the extrusion still stops on point B. It's like a tool head compensation for a cnc milling machine, where the outside diameter of the nozzle just compensates. If i set an extra amount of extract, point A will be a more dragged blob, but that doesnt fix the rift itself. I need something like coasting + extra extrude. E steps are calibrated, the print itself looks really good, but i have no idea why it would do that compensated seam, in orca and cura. No such thing with my old printer. The nozzle doesn't do a 100% loop, it's like 99,8% and that 0.2% is the anti seam in the layer. HELP. I found other people on different printers, having the same issue and no solution. Increasing extra extrusion is like the wrong tool and almost does help, but really doesn't.

great video, everything i was looking for

I'm getting the Ender-3 V3 Plus..... I don't see the Plus name in any of the V3 profiles to buy

Mann kann hören, dass du deutsch bist.

Fantastic video! Thanks for the information. Side note: I have a klipperized Elegoo N3M I purchased recently and my printer does not "present" my prints when finished, the nozzle just hovers over the spot where it last printed. Do you think it's possible the previous owner changed the end g-code to do this intentionally to help with sequential prints?

would be nice to see HOW THE F to get to the find the E-steps settings for different printers.. my Ender 3 pro was easy watched a video on it and he did as I did by replacing the extruder with a dual gear extruder.. and I just went by his final measurement and it was perfect for mine... so ya I cheated...lol but now I also have the Longer LK5 pro (love it) and the software is not as easy to navigate as the ender was

I commented before, but I just have to say you make really good videos. Good information very informative and very helpful. Keep up the good work, brother man.

stl buzz? can you fix it for me?

Hi, this is an excellent summary of solutions for low adhesion of the first layer. Thank you for being so specific.

I bought the profiles and although the printing results of my Ender 3 v3 se have improved a lot, I am still struggling with the threads in my prints. On a mechanical level, I have the printer well adjusted, but this point is still a stumbling block.

i heard theres a setting to tone down filaments spill-

Great video! Very helpful and informative. I liked and subscribed. I will be back.

Hello, I've been having a big problem with bed adhesion for two weeks now. I have tried everything: glue, bed leveling, filament, bed temperature, ... name it. I'm struggling with the Creality CR10-SE. Can you please share if you do have some information on how to manually bed-level this printer? I can't find it anywhere. It is a self-levelling printer and doesn't come with knobs for manual levelling. Thank you very much.

There is also the option to "Purge to Object" in Bambu Studio, so maybe have a coaster or simple object on the side of the print to make use of some of the waste.

Very nice. Short and no bullshit. Straight to the point👍👍

Thank you so much,, I've been fighting with my smaller.printer endor 3,, but I slowed down the first layer and boom! Finally stuck.. thanks

this video was extremely helpful thank you so much for the content

Good vid I’m bake up and running now just washed it under tap whit some washing up liquid and levelled the bed

Great info

How do you add your printer so you can print over WiFi, like you can with the creative cloud app?

my pump isnt working for the anycubic resin bottle.. :(

Sehr informatives Video, weiter so! 👏

Thanks! I was getting desperate but slowing down the first layer to 10 mm/s and increasing the bed temperature did the trick.

Can not open the files on my PC

I've found that too much infill also pulls the prints away from the bed. I am currently trying to fix a large print that has the corners pulling up. First layer bed temp is 90 then 60 for the rest might be too high for Pla.

Thanks for the video did you regret the mini and not the bigger version?

I don't need a long damn video . I don't need 9 ways . I just need one way.

Very informative! Thanks!

Nice video, I needed this info

This helped so much !!!!! +1 sub

the aceleration will be set automatically in the printer test

Considering buying an Ender 3 V3 Plus - but I wonder if it is possible to send the print directly from PrusaSlicer to the printer over the network ?

Do you have slicer profiles for the creality ended 3v3 plus For Cura?

I bought the slicer profiles and added them in my printer, the result was great, thank you Just a question, do you have a method for painting that is complete and hide these layers that remain from the print?

Hello i have a problem i have bougth your pack but when i import the profil on cura it said: "failed to import quality super dosent exist" could you help me?

I dont play miniature. I plan to get a 3D printer mainly for gunpla & other scale model custom parts, and also some larger scale figure. Resin has higher detail, but its too fragile for gunpla parts. So I'm wondering if Bambu lab printer good enough for me?