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I think you could drill holes in the first cap and set it up for a delay and chute eject. Maybe press or thread a steel tube into the cap to hold the delay grain. If you are going to make a new cap, it may be best to set up the o-ring or rings similar to the way they are on the nozzle end. However, as I recall, the usual o-ring groove is a bit wider than the o-ring, with space between the bottom of the groove and the inside of the casing of about 80 percent of the thickness of the o-ring. The sides of the groove are square. You can possibly use two grooves, with an o-ring in each. I understand that a tiny bit of surfactant can help make sugar fuels less viscous when they are hot. I recall that sodium laureth sulfate is one of them. I think it's found in bubble bath mix here in the usa, and I think I've seen it as the main or second ingredient in some liquid soap. You can add red iron oxide to the sorbitol to speed it up some. I think the SB in KNSB refers to SorBitol, since KNSU is made with sucrose. There's lots of great info on nakka-rocketry.net covering these topics and many more.

Very cool!!!!

My brother in Christ please fully define your sketches!

For a powerful stable nonshock sensitive fuel = Forget the sorbitol go back to sugar - powdered sugar! For a 101 gram batch use 65 grams potassium nitrate 35 grams powdered sugar & 1 gram of red iron oxide (AKA rust)! There is a couple other ingredients that you can add for even more powerful thrust but then it becomes less stable and sensitive.

Where did you get this turbine

Hey, I am working on a similar project and need metal 3d printed parts. Would you mind discussing your experience importing these parts and dealing with ITAR regulations? Thanks for any help!

We need the liquid engine!! 😮😮

cat te-au costat partile facute la cnc? nu sunt extrem de scumpe? care e ratio-ul tau masa combustibil/masa totala?

whats up with the liquid engine

Hello sir your video was so great and really helpful , i would like to know how you designed the rocket motor , Need your help as i am designing one for my project i have no clue how to do that .

Hey, man, I am an engineering student from Bulgaria with a background in software and hardware who has an interest in rocketry. May I contact you somehow?

ROmania!!! nu esti singur. si eu vreau sa ma joc/munces in nave spatiala. iar baza ii propulsia spatiala. Ma suscrib si eu sa vad cum faci.

You may already be on these, but there is a LOT of good information on the HalfCat and r/rocketry Discord channels. I have been working on a similar type of project for the last couple years and have found them to be extremely helpful as liquid rocket engines is a big thing they do

Why dont you use nitrous oxide ?

gj

Very good, I approve!

👍

Hey, great work!🎉 Real excited to see the test. Also, i am thinking of ordering my design from pcb way, can you tell me how much you got this one for so that i can apporx

Some tips from a mechanical designer: 1# Weld the inside seam of the flange and pipe with no or little filament to make sure that it is gas tight. This also makes it way stronger. 2# Use countersunk insect-screws for easier assembly and disasambly 3# Use high-temp o-rings. your O-rings will get cooked from the heat and start leaking. 5# Use high-temp silicon grease. This will also make it easier to disasamble the engine and could also protect the pipe from the heat. 4# Nickle plating will help but there are ceramic coatings that would work better. And maybe increase the life-span of your nozzle. Look at ceramic piston coatings👍🏻 Hope that that some of these tips can help😉 I am looking forward for the test firings.😀

What type of fuel injectors are you using? If you are not using any an easy way to make one is to get a m3 long nut and a m3 spiral tap and put the tap into the m3, nut. This method scales up. The reason it works is because the spiral in the tap forces the fluid to gain angular “momentum”. I’ve made a short rough video showing it working.

great work man,i have been doing this kind of stuff since 3 years now.... i have made my solid rocket motor and it produces around 5 kgs of thrust and am now working on my liquid propultion rocket engine...

Bravo.....exaust manifold oring.....high temp......cheers

You are my motivation for going into aerospace engineering college! After 4 months or something like that from now probably i will be into college and i hope its aerospace college ( i will update this comment once i get accepted )

I suggest replacing the rubber seals with high-temperature silicone. Even up to 400 degrees Celsius it will be better than rubber. The second thing - fuel grain is prepared carefully at home. Mixing ingredients, controlling temperature, density, tamping in the form. These are all trivialities, but they have a huge impact on the quality of the fuel grain and its stable combustion instead of explosion.

do you set fires with a sparkler? this leads to end combustion

I would like to see a V2 made from your hand

nice video

Hello bro I need to connect with you I am doing small solid propellant rocket as a project in my college Need your help

Sorbitol has about the same amount of energy, but for some reason it burns about twice as slowly which makes for an engine with less thrust. If your goal is thrust you may also consider adding some iron oxide powder to the mix.

unde ai gasit azotat de potasiu?

I genuinely didn´t know PCB Way offered CNC machining! Will use it for my own rocket motor project now

subscribed!!!

Your channel is underrated i wish you reach more audience!

Nice job!! :) I found it would perform better it you apply a e-match to ignite or just light your perpellant from very bottom( or the high speed gas would slow the burning rate), hope you have great result in your next version

You will make videos about liquid fuel rocket specifically small. Love from Bangladesh 🇧🇩

I'm going to suggest this based on the assumption that your propellent mold is either metallic or ceramic, so take this with a grain of sucrose. Have a removable cap on one end with your center cylinder and place the mold on top of it sealing off one end. Fill the container with the unmelted grains mixed thoroughly together. If you can acquire some heater bands that fit the metal tube, and a thermistor (like from a 3D printer hot end), you can use them with a temp controller setup to get the the compound to a fluid temp and melt in the tube. Let it cool and repeat until the motor is the correct size and shape. Once cooled, remove the cap and push it out. This will help prevent spills and be a bit safer overall. Making several of these wired together would also be fairly effective and efficient for making motors in bulk once you have the recipe correct.

dwg??

wow! subscribed! cheers from Italy!

Very interesting video, nice work! If youre interested in expanding your TH-cam audience, I would recommend speaking with a bit more confidence, and a slight bit faster. It makes the video more engaging to watch. Aside from that, It also might be worth investing in or building a small scale horizontal or upright test stand, as you may get more effective propellant burns in those orientations.

Add an outwards dent to your pan to act as a pouring spout. I hit mine with a flat head screw driver and a hammer 😂

Well made video!

awesome!!!

Suggest you either use an electric ignition or learn to make long, fast fuse, so you can start from a safe distance and your safety doesn't depend on running. I don't know if anyone does this, but I have found that a bit of carbon fiber, either tow or a splinter of the pre-cured stuff that's been sanded, makes a nice resistive element. The latter is a bit easier to work with. Don't try to wrap tow around a wire. If it's anything like mine, the sharp bend will snap it. You can't solder to it, or I can't, anyway. However, you can wrap wire around it for a connection. I have witnessed what happens when carbon fiber composite shorts out high voltage lines. In places, the epoxy just disappeared, but the carbon was more or less intact. So you can hit it with a lot of current and get a lot of heat. Put some pyrolant on the carbon anyway, though. A quarter inch between the wires attached to it is probably long enough with carbon. It's more resistive than nichrome. Of course, you can make perfectly good electric ignitions in other ways. One of the pitfalls, though, is that some resistive elements, if hit with too much current, will fail before they ignite anything. For instance, I was experimenting with small resistors for ignition. Some of them would just stop conducting at all if I used a 3S lipo for current, but lasted long enough to light things when using a 9 volt alkaline cell.

Well done,love it

me too except mine has no exause hole (I'm kidding mr fbi agent)

Your fuel is burning from the top to the bottom. Try getting an electric igniter and push it all the way inside. That way the fuel burns from the bottom to the top, igniting more fuel on its way to the nozzle, therefore creating a higher pressure inside and greater thrust. I'm not sure about the power drill to create the hole, my rockets turned out to spin because the hole wasn't perfectly parallel to the casing. Also try experimenting with different ratios between fuel and oxidizer. Love your nozzle btw Great video 👍

Now make a rocket and send ppl to space

Fantastic work.. subscribed

Great video! Do you know how can I get the RPA software you were using?

That rotatory valve is a very clever way to design it, I've never seen it before. I was just wondering how did you manage to make it air tight while being a 3D print part.