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Without a torch, this was the way to go for me.

I like that

And How did you find the diagrams? Awesome job!!!🎉

@brianalexisfloresochoa7088 thanks Brian. I downloaded the service manual online. If you email me I can send it to you. benwrenchinyt@gmail.com

Yes

I never knew they had a name! I guess they aren't super common, but it's nice when they are there!

🛠️🎵

No, that's the only seal I needed to replace with this

Thank you!

I would love to be able to say I've never done that haha

Thanks. What's the 1.25 then?

@@benwrenchin the 1.25 is the Thread Pitch. (1.25 millimeters from the top of one thread to the top of the next one. ) M8-1.0 is one thread every 1.0 millimeters; a finer thread than the m8-1.25, but the same diameter of bolt.

@ronkruchten5867 thanks, I thought so

Thanks

That works too haha

This one has disc and drum brakes. The box said rotor, so that's what I called it.

@@SomnoNaut inhale, smack with BFH blow away the rust n brake dust, repeat 🤣

Good to know thanks!

Yes, this is a "rotor-drum"

Subaru

F that. My$20 Harbor Freight grinder and a cutoff wheel slices through those stubborn drums

You cut off drums?

When I use anti seize I always end up using way too much haha

It's nice when they are, especially when you have the right bolts on hand

I've only replaced them twice, but apparently both Mazda and Toyota use them. Was a big help.

Nope, but I am in the rust belt

Or Massachusetts 😅

amzn.to/42oyt2a

Hittin' it with the ol' purse is always an option!

The air hammer didn't even knock them through after I had popped off the head of the rivet. I had to drill down more until I finally got deep enough to air hammer it out.

I use air hammer on rivets watch my videos on lowering kit 2008 Chevy Silverado I knock off all rivets with sharp air hammer

@elijahsautorepair9727 I didn't see where you took off the rivets, but I will say that truck is 15 years newer than mine. I'm also in the salt belt, so I'm guessing mine were rust welded in a bit more than those were haha

You're collecting even more badges haha

@benwrenchin it's my hobby

I haven't opened up the HVAC box yet. I did change out all the blend door actuators. I believe the mix door moves because it goes from warm to hot when the heat is on. I don't know enough to know if the cold is a separate mechanism. I changed the switch on the accumulator. I never found the high pressure switch. Wasn't sure where to go with it, I figured once it's not below zero outside I might start replacing parts one by one to narrow it down further.

@benwrenchin The high pressure switch is the one that you changed in this video. Another thing you can do is grab a hold of the high pressure and suction hoses where they run through the firewall and see if they're cold. If they are that's an indicator that the evaporator has insufficient air flow across it

@MegaMarclar good to know, thank you my man!

Bolts would be way easier to remove

I really like these. Also they turn on automatically when you open the jaws. That's another cool feature I left out.

@ I’ll be needing one to check my brake pad thickness, now I’ll have other uses for it😂 thanks to this video

@zoeplayz6752 for brake pads, make sure you get one that has a flat piece that sticks out the opposite end to measure things flush to a surface, like brake pads to the backing plate

@ ahh I see that makes sense, with those the wheels can stay on I’m guessing..well the one I’m looking at is gauge measure pen it’s called

@zoeplayz6752 yes, that's probably what you need. You'll always have to take the wheels off to measure the thickness of your brake pads though.

Thanks! Appreciate your explanation. That sounds like a good way to do it without scraping the axle plate on the frame. I'd do what this guy said!

I would have done that...if I had a welder haha

I wish the ball joints weren't riveted in, but in Chevy's defense, they did last 30 years!

Good to know, thanks man!

Getting the heads off the rivets wasn't too bad, but even with them off my air hammer wouldn't punch them out. That's why I had to drill even more.

These trucks have them that way from the factory

I had to drill a bit more after I got the heads off because even my air hammer wouldn't punch them through. I finally got it though.

Hey, thanks!

I'll try that next time, thanks

I dulled a few doing this, but you can resharpen them, and a full set of bits is like $10

Believe it or not, this was the second side I did so this was actually way better than the first side haha

@benwrenchin i remember the first time i done them my first thought " how tf do these come out?" Lmao i said if its liquid itll come out lmmfao. First time i used a torch and was methodical with it it was xtra work but got it done. 2nd time an old school tech said use a cutoff wheel and air hammer. I thanked him later lol.

I'm going to try a cutoff wheel next time. I have one, but it's garbage

Yes, it took a while but I knew it was coming out, one way or another!

Even with the heads knocked off, my air hammer still wouldn't knock them out. I had to drill quite a bit more into them before it would go through.

Makes sense, other than the fact that the ball joints wear out way faster than the control arm bushings.

Yeah but the aluminum control arms on my Cobalt SS cost 3x more than all the bushings and new ball joint combined. I'm drilling out.😊

Might save yourself from having to get an alignment too. I thought that's what I was doing, but I might just go ahead and get one anyway.

The new one bolts on, so a lot easier to take off when it fails!

It was, but that's expected with riveted ball joints. I'm sure there's a better way to do it, but this is how I got it out

It's surprising to me how many positive comments I get vs. how many are negative. TH-cam must be a way better space than Reddit 😆

Some took the time to like it, so I wouldn't say all 10k lost as much time as you did.