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Thank you for making that point. You are absolutely correct: If a circuit expects a certain supply Voltage and the supply can provide a Volt spare - a series, reverse protection, diode is by far the best way to go. The 0.7VDC drop (silicon) and its power dissipation will be no problem, however, if a battery is used and the circuit supply requirements are critically close to the supply, then a parallel supply diode with a supply fuse (most important!) can be used - zero Voltage drop. As I mentioned in the video, "I always use a Poly-fuse in the supply" and I used a 12VDC battery. In practice, there's usually a small Voltage drop across any fuse. If the supply is reversed - D1 will go into conduction, Poly-fuse will quickly open up (heat up) and the circuit is protected. Today, there are many options to solve this issue: Power MOSFET, Schottky diode and crowbar to name but a few. That Poly-fuse has saved my bacon on many occasions :)

Correct, to the standard 555 astable multivibrator: All I'm doing is replacing the charging resistor with a CC(78L05), then buffering the linear ramp produced - in the more complex (slightly) circuit.

@@beamer.electronics i have been in electronics from the age of 12 or so... made I it my profession now in IT

Going by the CMOS 555 datasheet, therefore theoretical: 3MHz / 16 = 187.5KHz, but I guess practically say, 60KHz min to no more than 100KHz Max. The CD4015s would handle it, but I'm not certain the output Op Amps would - might have to go with a discrete design.

@@beamer.electronics that's great , can we design AWF upto 1GHz frequency, if possible plz provide some list of equipments along with the circuit diagram

@@beamer.electronics ♥

Yes, choppers have mostly been exceeded, however, chopper stabilised Op-amps are still currently available, and the understanding of their function is valuable info. I knew a company that made very good money out of chopper stabilisation :) If I want a quick and dirty (low current) mirror supply - I'll use a 555 diode pump that can also provide a clock (if needed), or pick-off a logic square wave and buffer it. To me, knowledge of chopping techniques is just another spanner in my toolbox.

@@beamer.electronics they're definitely worth learning about which is why I found your video. Though it's not seemingly practical, I suspect I can use some coil wire I have to hand wind my own small inductor, and I also have some really tiny ones floating around. The other fact is you mention 555 timers, and I end up with 50 or 60 of them due to a seller's lack of attention lol. I've seen voltage quadruplers made with them using diodes and capacitors to build a ladder. There are some audio projects where tripling a 9 vdc supply would be ideal since with an op amp multiplying AC voltage, current is in most practical senses, negligible. There are circumstances where if I can get a decent clean D.C. boost, the circuit's potential as a voltage multiplier is phenomenally greater.

@@beamer.electronics in deeper review, it turns out choppers for extremely high power PWM are still incredibly common. The more I looked it over and realized it was producing pulsating D.C. and voltage amplification, I realized it's surely used in abundance for very high-power D.C. amplification and was correct. The potential to create multiple quadrant power supplies, PWM for controlling devices and splitting to use for +/- D.C. power supplies or converted into A.C., the more I kept digging. *These aren't extremely common in very low power systems and their information signal, but man are they abundantly common just the same!* Rampantly used in D.C. power supplies whether high or low power, sophisticated D.C. motor control systems like CNC equipment, smart chargers, battery reconditioners and just absolutely everywhere. They also operate in Class-D and being such a simple circuit, are extremely efficient. A capacitor, inductor and a MOSFET can be used to make a very useful and high power one.

@@JonDeth Thank you for your in depth research and contribution, it just goes to show that these understandings don't just disappear - they evolve, finding their most appropriate place in engineering.

Thank you, Ko, for visiting and appreciating my work (enjoyment). I'm now refining the receiver, but I've been 'instructed' to repair our TV first! All the best.

Thank you, Ko, for visiting my humble channel, yes I totally agree that repairing things is good - so much electronic stuff is just thrown away. I reserve the right to repair (if I can). Anybody starting out in electronics - there is a great resource in obtaining components from deleted equipment to explore. Should you want to access a vast repository of electronic knowledge, his own authored books and practical applications, please visit his channel.

The point you raise is a very good one: My lungs were damaged at birth through the 1952 London Smog, and I wear a good quality mask always when cutting, sawing and soldering (smoking flux). Fume extraction is also a good idea. From the age of 6, having spent so much time at home, in hospital and convalescing, I developed a fascination with electronics that is still with me today.

@@beamer.electronics Thank you for your response. Best wishes to you for good health and many successful projects!

It's great that people are coming forward and mentioning their way of doing this, thank you.

Assuming you have installed the correct cell - I believe it's the Li Ion 14500 rechargeable lithium 3.7VDC cell, and it's the right way round, the only thing I can think of it's the charging circuit and look for possible solder splashes. Also remove cell and (with a meter) check all possible individual components. It seems as though you can buy the whole circuit (non Philips), but how good it is and cost - I don't know? I can't find a circuit diagram for the 7340XL, and the video I produced is only for the Philips shaver, mention there. I also need to state - you are working on this mains powered product at your own risk. All the best.

thanks for the response. I did this only to see if I could and it did not work out like I had hoped. I will continue to use the razor corded and replace it when the time comes, which is what I think Norelco wants anyway. Cheers!@@beamer.electronics

Smashing comment, thank you. I suppose it's all about what one is used too. I've been using my method for about 55 years - I'm very articulate with my "grandpa" drill and gentle, I also wind coils with it too. For stability, I like clamping the board down - freeing up the other hand and preventing a slipped tool going into my hand. Furthermore, I also like a larger bit because it doesn't drill too deeply into the board - retaining its strength and I avoid damaging other tracks. By using DIYLC's excellent FREE software and their mirror facility, I have no trouble transferring the drill holes needed. It's surprising sometimes just how few drilled holes are actually needed. I appreciate you find your method the way you like it, all the best, Beamer.

I usually tin foil both the board and myself with an ultra-high frequency connection to a satellite dish, beamed to the Orion Nebula - I haven't had a reply yet, maybe one day? Perhaps you could try it as well, and we could then all beam together ;)

​@@beamer.electronicslmao

Hi there, has your 515 always been of a low level? Or has it just happened? Is the DAB, CD and FM of normal output level? I ran a Technics ST-Z45L tuner directly into the tape input - with only a slight loss of level, but perfectly good. Even though the sound is low, does the volume adjust properly without distortion? I suggest you also have a look at a Shure site for input levels: www.shure.com/en-EU/conferencing-meetings/ignite/tell-me-about-mic-and-line-level Does your 515 get hot, can you smell if it has been burning? All the best, Beamer.

@@beamer.electronics We just got it used, so I don't know its history but all the other outputs sound fine and are at matching levels. It is not getting hot, thankfully. I reflowed the solder on the RCAs too just in case, but that did not change anything.

There is no guarantee, but the storage battery likely needs to be replaced. You can find more information on this in my video. Best regards, Beamer.

It could be the channel select logic or the FM chips. FM alignment is always critical to adjust and needs sophisticated equipment for best results. A service manual can (sometimes) become available on eBay. All the best, Beamer.

It could be that the display has reached EOL, but before condemning - it's worth checking (competent EE) the voltages around the display, particularly the high voltage and associated capacitors. A schematic for a similar CR-315DAD is available: www.manualslib.com/manual/1081436/Onkyo-Cr-315.html All the best, Beamer

@@beamer.electronics Thank you!

It's really satisfying making a successful repair, thanks for your kind words and I've also just taken a beer out of the fridge - cheers :)

Congratulations on a tricky repair and info, and thank you for your kind words.

Kind words, thank you. I've tried several brands of new heads (non-Philips) over the years - all failed! The mechanical precision is just not there; they bind (drawing more current) or pull hairs. I've learnt to always keep the same pairs together and run them in. All in all not good.

Apologies for the reply delay - health issues. Useful information, thank you.

Assuming you are technically competent - mains voltage can kill! Check that the mains is getting to the mains transformer; if it's not - it's likely to be the mains power switch. Try cleaning it (as in the video) or replacing it. If that's OK, and the front panel isn't lighting up - it's probably faulty regulator circuitry. All the best, Beamer.

@@beamer.electronics hola ya cambié el regulador de la fuente y ya enciende . Ahora tiene problemas de que no sale ninguna emisora de radio . Solo suena ruido rosa . Que podrá ser

Tengo un sintonizador igual tiene como problema pierde la grabación de las emisoras

De un día para otro al revisar encontre dos capacitores de 3.3 faradios a 2.5 voltios

Es difícil de conseguir si alguien sabe de algun distribuidor por favor lo agradeceria me avisan gracias

Thank's for your support.

Thank you for your kind words.

I don't understand, please explain further.

You could try: www.radiomuseum.org/r/technics_st_z45.html or wait for it to come up on eBay. All the best, Beamer.

Thank you for your thoughtful comment. Yes, I used cross-coupled nand gates, driving a transistor-driven reed switch. As I recall (going back 42 years :), the smallish motor was higher in voltage and lower in current. My little debounce circuit switched on/off much quicker than their prior configuration, which the motor seemed to like. Some reed switches can switch up to about 5 Amps, 10,000 Volts and 7 GHz. The recommended motor suppression circuit was also followed making it more resistive. Having said all of that, there was a lot of head-scratching by everybody as to why my circuit proved to be so effective and reliable - product life was about 20 years. All the best, Beamer.

Very true, it's just that I felt that everybody probably has a pencil in their home - even though it's a tad inferior. Thank you for viewing my video and making a comment.

Thanks

Thank you for your kind words and subscription. With batteries, I would be inclined to add a series resistor to each input, say 4K7 and possibly two reverse diodes to +5 and 0 VDC - for safety. Also, please note - there's a common 0V! My latest version incorporates auto-calibration, using a 2.5 VDC reference. I'll upload it shortly after I get my challenging current video finished - taking way too long :) All the best, Beamer.

Nice reply, thank you.

Assuming you are a competent technical person handling mains appliances - it could be the power supply? Have a careful look for any spillage or burnt areas and components. Also, make sure that all connectors are correctly assembled and that all other 515 features are working. There's available a schematic for the CR-315DAB that's very close to the 515 - put that in a search engine. Failing that, it could be the CD player's circuit or motor. You should get at least an attempted CD spin. All the best.

Thank you for your kind words. Assuming it's an Onkyo CR-515DAB (or similar family member), and keeping it brief: If the CD isn't being gripped, then it's likely a reassembly issue - check, as mentioned, the mounting spring issue, also check the movement and freedom of the pickup ribbon cable, gears and metal shaft - any mechanical resistance can be problematic. Make sure they're spotlessly clean and then lightly special greased. This CD players' servo control etc., are all software controlled - no adjustments! Don't adjust laser drive control on the pickup - unless you've absolutely nothing to lose and make note of the original setting! Things you need to eliminate: Pickup Compatability - these KSS-213Cs aren't originals or could be faulty! Dirt on the lens? Plugs/sockets not inserted or oriented correctly, especially the ribbon cable - any misalignment can be an issue. Any tool impact, parts dropped or liquids spilt onto the boards can cause damage. If it's the electronics - check power supply levels first. I hope this helps, all the best.

Thanks again for such helpful info....it's the same unit and the replacement model was new. I've checked and doubled checked (bat the PSU). No difference and I'm sure the hight tension springs are at the correct end. I have noticed that if a carefully apply light pressure to the spindal when a CD loads, it performs better and sometimes registers the CD. Obviously incant maintain that balance so it fails..... anything else I can try? 🙂 Thanks again

@@gravyboatdrone4060 ​ @Gravy Boat Drone Just to be absolutely certain here: What's the model of your HiFi system and did you replace the whole CD unit or, like me, just the pickup (model No please)? If the spindle motor needs to slow down - then the system isn't synchronising with the disc. If the springs are the wrong way round - then you'd hear a grinding sound and the disc wouldn't load properly. Was this fault the same as the original one (before replacement)? Have you tried a new CD, CD rot can be an issue. Does the CD drive switch off after a while of dysfunctioning? All the best.

@@beamer.electronics hi there, it's the CR-725DAB, I replaced the CD pickup module only and not the entire CD unit. The pick up module is a direct replacement (KSM213CDM). It does seem to make a slight grinding sound on spin attempt when the CD won't engage properly. Thanks again

The original issue was that it would just read "no CD" there was a very slight sound of a CD spinning but now with the replacement it won't engage and only if I apply pressure will it momentarily register a CD

Whilst both company's are Japanese, they appear to be separate, although both probably source from each other. Subjectively, it's thought that Sony's gear looks and sounds great, yet Onkyo sounds better and costs less? All the best, Beamer

@@beamer.electronics Onkyo are the better of the two yep, they use sony ic's and lasers, however if you look at onkyo's font its identical to sony's

I appreciated your thanks, and have a happy, healthy and prosperous new year.

Thanks for the appreciation. Yes, you can buy these at very low prices and they are repairable, my 45 is still running superbly. It's unfortunate that I have just 1 talk channel I listen to on DAB or else I would still be using this tuner as my main. All the best, Beamer.

Thanks for your kind words. We can now all have a WALH of a time keeping our stubble in order ;)

I'm pleased it worked for you, and it's now saved from being thrown away :) All the best, Beamer.

Thanks for your thoughts. The problem I have in doing longer videos is that very few people watch them, I suppose we all live busy lives. If there are any details that you not sure about please let me know, I'll do my best to answer? I could add a short video or include the details in the original video's description area. I'm not a public speaker, and I have been asked: "Are you a commercial airline pilot?" - I'm not that either :)

Thank you for your kind words. A 515 for 10 euros - what a steal, well done. It's also possible now to find the 515's D-N9BX Speakers for little money, I still use mine because they are good, great imaging and the top end is easy listening. I do use an active sub though. I wire my TV, video disc player and PC through 515 via a switch box (aux input), even my old Technics tuner is plugged into the tape input :) All the best, Beamer.

Much appreciated, thank you. Yes, I think it can simply be made out of any latch type - I just couldn't believe how chuffed that company was and how (over the years), it indirectly contributed to my income :) Stay safe, Beamer.

@@beamer.electronics Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best & the most elegant. Great that you identified the problem, "KISS" springs to mind. Glad the company was happy and you were rewarded for your problem solving! All good stuff 😊

Thanks for the appreciation, I've uploaded a new version which includes some manual control: th-cam.com/video/zUFHgD0cl6Q/w-d-xo.html

You are very welcome. If you have any suggestions as to how I (or anybody else), can develop this further please let me know?

@@beamer.electronics Thank you very much! I count the numbers on this module, I don't understand a bit how to send a number from 0 to 9 to the desired segment, it has a built-in decoder, but I don't know how to send integer values to the desired segment, as I can only send a hexadecimal value. I don’t know how to send a decimal value for the decoding module to understand itself.

@@masterkit9517 Thank you for your interest, I think I need to do a video explaining this sketch further. However, as a basic guide: HexValue holds the 7 seg patterns eg., decimal 8 = 0x7F = all segs 1 (all on). FinalHex holds the mathematically derived number pointing to the appropriate seg pattern. Then that is squirted-out with the appropriate address via sub DigitDo to the TM1638. The decimal point is fixed in 1 position as the number of digits is limited by Nano’s A to D converter (1023 steps), with a maximum of 5.00 VDC. Perhaps a more pragmatic approach (something I do), would be to make a copy of the sketch and enjoy playing around with it to obtain a better understanding - the TM1638 is very tolerant :) I’ll include a link to the chip and I hope the above helps. Keep safe, Beamer. www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/1132372/TITAN/TM1638.html

@@beamer.electronics Its fantastic information!!! Thanks!!! Super interesting!!! Thank you very much!!!

@@beamer.electronics Please help brightness setup

Thank you for your kind thoughts. I hope you enjoyed your visit to Brighton, my wife and I loved visiting there particularly the Lanes and New Farm. My wife would always drive me to NF first - they had a free cider tasting event :) Then we would go onto the Lanes where she enjoyed the jewellery and I was (by then), a complete pushover! Yes, the assembly of liners (as superb as they are), off the Devon coast is a stark reminder that things aren't 'right'. Local people have been ferrying food hampers out to them :) Being almost the 51st state of America (and pleased), we wish you all a healthy and prosperous new year.

Thank you for your encouraging words. Enjoy your exploration into the world of electronics and have a healthy and prosperous new year.

Yes, it got me for a while - sneaky ONKYO :) I believe the later models have grommets, but they degrade after a few years - springs are probably best. All the best, Beamer.

@@beamer.electronics Yes. Mines the cr-525, and the springs are sat on top of grommets.