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Mine is a year older and 50k miles. 5.16% degradation.

@@jeditoto3441 Thank you! I used the Scan My Tesla app to get the data, and used a dongle off of the CAN bus connector (behind the center console), in order to have an OBD-II port to plug into. There’s another good app I use called tes•LAX which shows similar data. Hope that helps!

Supercharging has been 20% exactly with the rest being home charging. Love the car but now slightly concerned with this degradation compared to yours.

@@gsprmtys Interesting result, I suppose it somewhat aligns with my conclusion from the video that these LFP packs really only degrade by age, not mileage. I’m not an expert by any means, but it certainly could be that your BMS is just out of calibration - ultimately the estimated capacity from the BMS is just a guess as you said, and the rated range numbers you’re seeing reflect that. I’ve noticed it occasionally with my car as well, doing a shallower depth of discharge (like on road trips, Supercharging from 10-60% several times a day) slightly throws it out of calibration, and therefore it would show a slightly lower rated range when fully charged (the lowest mine has been is 254 miles just like yours, it’s normally 258 when calibrated). AC charging it from sub-10% to 100% a couple of times helped it re-calibrate. The BMS will always be conservative, so depending on how you charge your car, perhaps it hasn’t seen the bottom 10% in a while, and it’s “guessing” that there’s less capacity than there actually is. I wouldn’t worry about it, but doing a health check in service mode will drain it down to 0 and charge it to 100%, and that should hopefully calibrate the BMS. Perhaps then you’d see higher rated range numbers, that’s what’s worked for me at least. Best of luck with it!

charged at home with wall connector every day with the occasional supercharge.

wouldn't it be 32k miles and not 70k ? :)

@@teovm Thank you! Yeah, definitely a ton of adventures planned with this car over the next few years. See you again at 200k!

@@rinnin Haha, definitely agreed. Would be awesome if the US switched to metric a long time ago, but oh well.

@@AirElectricApp At 100% SoC, “ideal remaining” is usually very consistent at 57.4 kWh. The car reports 2.6 kWh in the bottom buffer, so that would be 54.8 kWh usable, slightly more than I measured in my capacity test. I just added some other Scan My Tesla values in the video description as well, hope that helps.

@@parsnips800 Yeah, I was in a similar position. It’s a great car for myself and lots of others, but there are definitely still tons of use cases when an EV doesn’t make sense - I’d argue that not having home/work charging is one of those cases. And I agree with you, governments shouldn’t be trying to force people into these cars. If it’s a compelling product then people should want to buy it, but forcing them to do so is the wrong approach. Thanks for watching!

@@davidfujkk8018 Nothing special, it can sometimes be all over the place. I charge to 100% SoC almost every charging session, and typically drive 150-250 miles before recharging again (usually the length of my drives). If I won’t be driving for a while, I always try to leave the car under 70% SoC, preferably around 50%.

@@jaslarja Yep, charging to 100% almost all the time when AC charging, though not always when DC charging.

@@fknid Yeah, I usually try to keep this between 30-50% SoC as much as possible when it’s not being driven. Still, I think it’s impressive how low the degradation is despite frequently being charged to 100%.

@@BrandonKipp yes, batteries of the current model electric cars will easily outlive the usable life of the car.

@@franklong6269 Interesting, I’ve noticed similar behavior when I lived in Yuma, AZ with the car last summer. I had the car outside but under a carport, and the car only cooled the battery when it was powered on (which I kind of expected). I checked Service Mode, and the battery was at like 42-45°C just from sitting there on the 115°F days. The garage cooling sounds like a smart idea, and I’m sure it’ll help. Your degradation doesn’t seem too bad though all things considered, I’ve heard that a lot of the NCA Model 3s in Arizona have like 10-15% degradation after similar mileage, so it definitely seems like LFP is much more resistant to heat.

That has an LG battery in it. Not CATL LFP. But i understand why you want the performance.. haha.

@@SkywalkerPaul That is awesome! Have fun with it on the Autobahn!

@@markuswillenberg9830 Awesome to hear, and thanks for watching! The Highland is a fantastic car.

@@dosso96 I used the Scan My Tesla app, and used a dongle off of the CAN bus connector (behind the center console), in order to have an OBD-II port to plug into. Hope that helps!

@@Patryks26 Yep, pretty much the same as I calculated. “Usable” in Scan My Tesla is currently listed as 54.5 kWh. And just to verify, Nominal full pack is 57.1 kWh (sometimes Nominal remaining can go up to 57.4 kWh right after a full charge), and with the 2.6 kWh bottom buffer that the car reports, that’s between 54.5-54.8 kWh usable.

@@cypvh74 No, the car accounts for regen in both the average consumption display, as well as the total kWh used display. Plus, this was over 300 miles of straight highway, so there was probably ~700 Wh of regen at the most. And again, that’s irrelevant since the car accounts for that in its consumption figures.

@@BrandonKipp So 5% degradation at 100k miles. So do we expect totally depleted / dead Tesla batteries at 2M miles?

@@rinnin Degradation isn’t linear, so it’s difficult to predict that far ahead. But for what it’s worth, the degradation with this car seems to have plateaued long ago. I doubt there will be much more degradation by 200k miles, but by 2M miles it’s really hard to say (the rest of the car also has to last that long, of course).

@@cypvh74 Yeah, seems to be the case especially with the CATL LFP packs. They’re degrading the exact same regardless of mileage/usage. The LG/Panasonic NMC/NCA packs on the other hand still seem to be somewhat correlated with mileage and how they’re charged, but age is still relevant too.

@ based on personal experience and other information sources on the other tesla packs, it seems very similar. With people with high mileage seeing the same degradation levels as people with low miles but similar ages packs.

Model 3 and Y being a later generation seem to hold up very well. I guess you had an early Model S?

how is it a money pit when that is still under warranty

Stop trolling

Guy said it was mostly charged at superchargers, so probably stopping at 80%.

Do you know what the “L” stands for in LFP? Lithium. LFP batteries are lithium batteries.

@@marcuss_aureliuss Yeah, ultimately this is still a li-ion battery, so it still has those characteristics. And regarding your point about the power output, while it’s true that LFP might not have the same peak power output as NMC, because of the fairly flat voltage curve, it still puts out the same power at 1-2% SoC as it does at 100% SoC. Can’t say the same about NMC, so that’s one thing I like about LFP, the performance doesn’t decrease with SoC. I agree with you though, the few downsides of LFP are negated by the low degradation. And wow, that’s a fair bit of degradation with your Model Y, do you live in a hot climate or Supercharge a lot?

@@cypvh74 Nope, it was usually DC charged to 100%, and in a hot climate on top of it.

@@BrandonKipp LFP likes hot climate. It's easier to cool the batteries than to heat up.

@@hanswallner2188 Thank you!

@@laurynasEV I’m planning on doing that eventually, but supposedly it needs a >6 kW charger which I don’t have, and this 100-0% driving test was the same way I’ve measured capacity in my other cars, and it’s a widely-used method, so I wanted to keep it consistent.

@@3DVnet That is awesome to hear! Red looks so good on these cars. I’d honestly expect more degradation from an NCA car after tons of Supercharging and rental/rideshare abuse, so your car seems to have held up quite well, all things considered. And even with the degradation, you still have a lot more range than the LFP cars do. Mine is actually an ex-Hertz car as well, I purchased it a couple months ago with 91k miles, and have added about 20k miles since then. Thanks for watching!

@@tjts1 That is a fantastic deal! Mine was actually an ex-Hertz car as well, purchased a couple months ago with 91k miles, and I’ve added about 20k miles since then. These cars were seemingly used a ton for rideshare (I’ve noticed some back seat wear with mine), but most of them have held up extremely well despite all the Supercharging. Glad you’re enjoying it!

This is very reassuring, picking mine up tomorrow, $18k with 126k miles.Thank you both for the information.

@@BrianCheck Awesome to hear! Hope you enjoy the car.

WTF, 12K dollar for THIS freaking good car? I own a 2022 LFP too, and since i got it zero zero zero issues. It's the most reliable car i ever had. THAT A freaking STEAL bro. You got so lucky.

My 2017 x with 103k mi has been amazing. Zero issues. Nothing . My 2016 s had an ac repair along with a burnt wire repair . 3.8k . Amazing reliability! Love my teslas !

@@NoName-md5zb Yeah, I don’t understand that either. LFP would eliminate a lot of the EV “downsides” that people always complain about (recommended 80% daily charge limit, fears of high degradation, “fast charging degrades the battery,” etc.). I suppose since most cells are manufactured in China it wouldn’t make sense for the US tax credits, but now that those are going away, it would be nice to see more LFP vehicles in the US. At the very least, Europe seems to get a lot of new LFP vehicles (all the Chinese cars).

@BrandonKipp new stellantis ec3, frontera and panda has them. First eu car(s) with lfp.

@@BrandonKipp There isn't much benefit for LFP in cars, since the high charge cycles are not that relevant in an EV, vs the home battery, where high cycle count is important. They are cheaper though and they gas out and not violently explode like NMC/NCA, that is the biggest advantage, but are heavier and are problematic in cold climate. In colder climate you have huge problems charging them. Plus you have the problem with the BMS needing the 100% charge more than in NMC/NCA so actually you have to baby sit an LFP, not an NMC/NCA. The LFP require way more baby sitting, especially if you don't have a home charger.

@@AirElectricApp I really think it depends on the car’s use case. For the average commuter that maybe uses 20% SoC every day, then yeah, NMC makes sense. However for the high mileage use cases, like what this car’s been used for, I still think LFP is the way to go. Since NMC is greatly affected by depth of discharge, LFP is better for a high mileage use case with longer drives between charges, since it barely seems to be affected by DoD. Plus, the fact that LFP is more resistant to heat means that DC charging doesn’t seem to negatively affect it (as shown with this car), though as you said, DC charging in the cold is still a valid concern. And additionally, for those without home charging, I’d argue that LFP actually makes more sense than NMC. If you’re trying to keep NMC between 80-20% as much as possible, you’re going to have to public charge much more frequently than with LFP, where you can just plug in when it’s empty and charge to full, therefore reducing the number of charging sessions needed. That of course assumes you’ll be DC charging to 100%, which is might not always be the case. But I agree that for the average EV buyer that has home charging and mainly uses the car for commuting with the occasional road trip, then yes, NMC is the way to go.

@@BrandonKipp Do you have statistics to back the claim of deep discharge on NMC/NCA? As long as you don't really stay at low SoC long time, it shouldn't really be an issue nor is it according to the statistics we have here in Germany. As for your battery, you actually have 62kWh (full when new should say 62) as far as I remember. So you are looking at around 5kWh loss or about 7% degradation. I have the LG NMC battery and am at 5% at 100k KM so realistically the degradation is similar to yours. In terms of charging, you are a bit wrong about babysitting the NMC, 90% charges or even 100% charges are not an issue. I have done about 40+ 100% charges and you can see on my channel that most road trips I cycle 100% to 0% or lower. So for anyone charging on public chargers, especially on DC for LFP, where 100% charges are essential for the BMS, waiting 1 hour or more on the Supercharger for that last % to calibrate should be a pain. Even here in Europe, they continue charging if you are plugged in or even charge you if you charge more than X amount of hours, so that is a pain. I understand in the US people are not that used to AC public charging, but in Europe that is a thing and almost 90% of all charge cycles are on AC with at least 30% of those on public AC chargers.

@@sebamu6795 Yeah, I try not to let it sit at 100% SoC for more than like 6 hours if possible (I typically drive off about 1-3 hours after it hits 100%), but there have been a few times where my day’s plans changed and it’s sat there for a day or more, and I didn’t sweat it.

@@Airbag888 Thank you! The drone is a DJI Mini 2, and I used a 3rd-party app called Litchi to have it automatically track/follow the car for those driving shots.

@tafl-9198 Thanks! I definitely agree with you.

For sure.

@@lukyluke993 Yeah, ultimately it’s still a li-ion battery and will always have those characteristics. I usually try to keep it under 70% SoC unless I need the extra range, and if I’m not going too low, then I don’t really worry if I temporarily throw off the BMS calibration. That being said, this car’s really just been used without much care (lots of fast charging and deep cycling), and it really hasn’t shown any additional degradation compared to the lower mileage examples. I could potentially see always charging to 100% being an issue especially for the low mileage cars, because they’re more likely to sit at that high SoC, whereas mine will be driven instead. It’ll be interesting to see the data once these cars are a little bit older.

Thank you!

The way he is using his is actually how an LFP battery likes to be used, drained down low and fully charged, LFP's show the best behavior when you charge like that. What's not recommended to do is leave the battery fully charged for long periods of time, often, especially if its really hot where the car is. Search for How To Ruin Your Electric Car's Battery - LFP Edition! Its a really good video about LFP batteries.

maybe try to look under service mode and test that way.

@@rob1422222 Actually that seems to somewhat align with the data from all the other low mileage cars. I briefly mentioned it in the video, but it seems like the low mileage cars have the same exact degradation as the high mileage cars, because these LFP packs only seem to be degrading by age, not usage. At least with my car, it seemed to plateau at 5% degradation a long time ago, and hasn’t lost any more capacity since then. Also consider that in general, most degradation happens within the first 10-20k miles, so it’s highly unlikely yours will continue degrading at this rate.

@@BrandonKipp Hi, amazing video, thank you. I tend to disagree here though. Our 22 RWD LFP has 54k km (34k miles) and degradation didn’t really slow down. According to Tessie it’s at 6,3%. The one in your video has about the same age, much more DC charging, about three times higher milege and despite that, a lower degradation. So it’s either Tessie is wrong, I’m doing something wrong, or some cars tend to degrade at a higher pace for some reason.

We are at 20,400 miles and showing 259-260 miles at full charge.

@@rodbrown8306 Thanks for the feedback! I agree with you, I’m a more visual learner myself, so I’ll add relevant graphs next time when talking about the numbers. It made sense in my head, but I sort of tuned out when watching it back again, as it was too much information to process audibly. Visuals would’ve certainly helped in that regard. Thanks again.