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Dude thats so cool. I was looking for a special cluster for a custom build for my son and I was thinking this old ford third had a cool set of gauges and man this is *&$@ing cool. Now I just have to buy 1 and see how I can round off the right corner cuz when you look at these on eBay the right side is a straight down cut and the left side is rounded. Anyway thanks for the video. 😁

Hello Ben. I was thinking about your other post about how your engin RPM changed drastically when applying the brakes. This is probably a vacuum leak in the power brake booster. If it's the original one, the internal rubber doesn't seal because of age. Also, when the master cylinder leaks brake fluid out of the back where it attaches to the brake booster, the booster will pull the fluid in and cause internal damage. George B.

Hello Ben. For yoy saying that you don't know what you are doing, you did a good job replacing that starting solenoid and ignition switch! If you have the 1966 Ford Shop manual, on page 15-20 under Specificatons, there is a listing for light bulbs. Make sure the bulb number you used for the ignition switch ring is a 1895 type. Even though they are 12v bulbs, they may have different brightness, and could be shaped different. George B.

If your engine rpm’s change when applying brake pedal, you might have a vacuum leak. Time to find out where. FUN. There are several easy ways. Start by disconnecting and plug ports going to everything and plug those, at the manifold. Leave power booster hose attached. Apply bake pedal check engine rpm’s for change. Check the hose for leaks . Change as needed. Use VACUUM HOSE. NOT FUEL HOSE. Good luck. Isolate. .

I really enjoyed your video! are brake lights supposed to come on when the brake pedal is pressed with no key in the ignition? is that normal? because on the 66 tbird i am working on, brake lights only come on when the key is in acc or run when the pedal is depressed. doesn't come on when the key is not in and the pedal is depressed. do i have a problem and what is it? thank you!

The “birds nest” in line wood oregon is the best source for parts..

Love that interior

Did you replace the gauge bulbs to LED’s or are those stock? Looks pretty amazing at night

I was about to buy the led sequential conversion for the tail lights but it’s almost $400 so if you were able to just swap the bulbs to LED’s with built in resistors and it works, I’m doing the same lol

The screws holding those lenses are a special screw designed to stop them from cracking, they are not any ordinary screw.

What is the MPG on it?

Very clean tbird that color is super clean

I know the feeling. I’m wondering if there is supposed to be something like a pad or gasket between the lens and mounting surface. To keep moisture out and to cushion it. Is there anything like that on yours? I would immediately find a way to repair that crack before it cracks worse. Good luck. Car looks great. Clint in Michigan

Hello Ben. Sorry to see you cracked the lens, but it does not look bad at all. I don't think anyone will notice. Don't beat yourself up over it, we all make mistakes! George B. in Michigan

Hello Ben. I enjoyed your video of switching over to LED. Those new lenses look great! If you look closely at that center tail light bird script, you will notice that the "pegs" are tapered. As you tighten the nuts that hold it on, they will "bite" into the metal pegs creating their own threads. But it does make a nice display! Thanks for showing. George B. in Michigan

The rear differential needs re-greasing around a 100K. Check your oil leak. May be the tranny from sitting to much. See if it stops with use. Other commenters have provided a good list of resources. I have 2 town landau's and love them. Very nice bird.

Great looking car, and I see some familiar names here in the comments. 😎

Have the original rebuilt may be main source of engine vacuum leak.

That is a nice T Bird!

Hello Ben. Looks like the car is running good. Has that exhaust noise, but sounds like you have it covered with new manifolds. The area that you power washed, and by the battery is painted the same color as the body of the car. I don't know if you intend on keeping it as original looking as possible. George B. in Michigan

Hello Ben. You found yourself a beauty! You will probably get many T-Bird lovers giving you some tips. I see Joernone has already chimed in! Check out Nick at Vintage Thunderbird Repair, Alvin at Jamieson's Repair Shop, Gordon Miller's channel, and Pedalbox. I am sure there are more on TH-cam to find. I would inspect the exhaust manifolds carefully with an inspection mirror while it is running so you can find where the exhaust leak is at. These cars have an "exhaust control valve" located on the passenger side where the exhaust meets up with the exhaust manifold. You can sometimes get a leak there, or hear it "rattle". As far as the non-steady idle, it could be time for a carb rebuild, or there could be a vacuum leak. I like what John says about the master cylinder. If you are adding brake fluid and are not seeing any leaks, it is possible that you are loosing fluid from the master cylinder into the brake booster. Fluid can damage the brake booster internal workings, and could be getting sucked into the engine through the vacuum line from the booster to the intake manifold. I hope you post more videos of this nice looking car! George B. in Michigan

Ben, Glad to see you again. You're continuing to do a very good job. I like it! You really have a good-looking '66, my friend. I'm envious. I sent you an email. Regards, John

If you ever want to start refurbishing and learn how to repair and maintain this car I recommend these two TH-cam channels. th-cam.com/users/joernone th-cam.com/channels/g6Fgxc6Tqhd9g8OsmEjT6Q.html I am myself looking into buying one! I am envious my friend!

Don’t worry about those timing marks on a harmonic balancer. They are only needed forwhen the car is running and you are checking the mark with a timing light. The three bolts should be holding the belt pulley to harmonic bouncer. The one big bolt holds that assembly to the crankshaft.Good luck moving along. Do you have a shop manual?

Ben, You're doing well, my friend. I can see your confidence building higher with each video. And you're never in over your head. It's simply knowing or not knowing. There's a lot of things on my Bird that I still have to figure out. Solution: Just jump in with all four feet and make it happen. Piece of cake. Make it bend to your will! Regards, John

That last thing you grabbed under the hood, is the temperature control valve, operated by vacuum. When you adjust the interior temperature that valve opens or closes for coolant to flow through the heater core.

Hello from Michigan. Nice car, mine is the same color green. I have to jump in here on the brake booster situation. I suggest call Pat Wilson’s Thunderbird Parts up in New Jersey. He sometimes has in stock, you would simply send yours as a core. Or ask who his rebuilder is, I believe they are in Texas. Good luck. I look forward to your updates here. I’m new to TH-cam as a member. I’ve watched and learned a lot from Johns vids. Thank you John. I’ll be subscribing to your channel next.

Ben, You're moving right along, my friend. I'm happy to see you diving right in there. My favorite saying: "it will bend to my will." You're already making it do the same. Btw...malfunctioning master cylinders can be a very scary thing, especially when you hit the brake. 😁 Considering how much brake fluid was under the car, the engine quitting when it did was good Karma and all that. Someone is watching out for you, young man. Looking forward to your next plunge. Regards, John

Ben, Those brighter gauges do look way cool. I can't wait to start on my interior, but first comes the floor welding. Regards, John

Ben, Way to go. Those LEDs do look good. I have a set, but not yet installed them. Two days ago I completely finished the undercarriage and I'll soon be starting on the interior. All the parts have already been cleaned, de-rusted primed and painted, so other than squaring away a vacuum line and a few wires that go under the carpet, it'll just be a matter of throwing things back together. Steady as she goes, my friend. One step at a time. Regards, John

Ben, What happened to the previously posted comments? They're not showing up. I can help you with the master cylinder need. Regards, John

Ben, She's a beauty for sure. Congrats to ya, my friend. Great Christmas gift in my book! Btw...not to worry, zero vacuum tubes are in the car. I do have one recommendation, other than you must fully enjoy driving her around: Ask the original owner if the brake booster and master cylinder are original to the car, thus 55-years old. If so, it's time for them to be replaced. It's not something to be delayed. The '66 T-Bird weighs over 2-tons, meaning brake failure can do great damage to whatever it hits. One other thing: Your exhaust system isn't stock, but if it looks and sounds good, then keep running with it. You're a lucky feller. Contact me whenever you might have a question. I'm always available. Regards, John