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Good tips. Some of these apply to fwd cars as well

Teach us this in physics class bro, instead if dumb formula sh*t, “an object that stays in motion” “forces are opposite and equal” stop teaching us stuff we already know

Thanks for the lesson, these are the reasons why I love my fwd car... I have less to worry about

same with awd.. just don't lift mid corner!

Alot of idiots in automatics are watching this video. With the skillet one has and the power the car has,this can be preventable,but this is solely for MANUAL cars not tiptronic , MANUAL. When you drive a manual it is definitely easier to drive a car ,you have full control. So with lift it's your own fault if you big head yourself into going 100 miles in a corner just to keep up with a Honda.

Friend and I have been racing on my rig, a in my breaktime I've seed this video and it helped me to drive at least slightly better, on a first try 🙂 thank you 🙂

I'm curious, in the first scenario with lift off oversteer, would applying left foot braking gently be a better solution than letting off the throttle at high rpms?

engine breaking would push the nose down but not lift the back up. when only using the back brake in a bike, it also doesnt lift the back

I would like this for AWD

"flux compensator" come on man

Best thing you can do is find a nice space and do donuts until you can do it with ur eyes closed. Then figure 8s. It will help you when the unexpected happens in the future, which it will.

0:23 Jack Doherty ahh moment

I believe the downshift in corners one is actually used to initiate oversteer for drifting and rally sometimes, its called shift lock. If i remember correctly, Keiichi Tsuchiya used this technique

why does he speak so much and tells so little. 5 minutes of bla bla and finaly a useful information.

Who doesnt understand the points system, think of the water cup Turn to hard or break to hard and the water spills

What about cars with 4 wheel steering and semi auto boxes such as my RWD Lexus RC350 F sport coupe? . I don’t drive like a maniac and I have Pilot Sport 4S tyres on it but it doesn’t seem to be losing any grip on corners in any noticeable way. The only way I can get it to break traction under normal conditions is in the wet if I plant the accelerator from the traffic lights. It has a mild tune with an Invidia Quad exhaust but nothing outrageous other than a nice exhaust note many think is too loud. I don’t switch off traction control for the record.

I will suggest if you’re taking your foot off gas pedal immediately hit gently the brake and at the same time gear down and throttle the half way out of a corner

Great Video, thanks

I was used to arcade games, so now I started playing one that mixes arcade with simulator and I was like "what the hell, why can't I run 10 meters without spinning my car?". now that explains why lol

3944 Margaret Isle

Zakary Unions

Is a bike doing an endo with hard front braking a good analogy?

Confusing.

Salvatore Ports

FYI-Toddlers can't drive.

Great video! I would add the compromised vehicle stability during costing. Ideally you always want to have either your front or rear suspension/tires under load (accelerating or braking). You have to avoid coasting, especially on curved roads.

The Drift kings "Drift bible" took my drifting to another level ,there is a blur between oversteer and understeer if you understand the physics

Thanks for the video man!

Years ago driving an automatic front wheel drive, at the speed limit early morning frosty road. Driving down a small hill then crested the other side lost the back end may be all four tyres. Was in the zone feathering the steering wheel to keep control. Did this for about 400 meters coming up to sharp bend. Split second decision to touch the throttle gained control and managed to drive the bend. There was car coming the other way on this quiet country side road and if I hadn’t touched that throttle I think it would have been a head on collision.

AI generated garbage!!!!

underrated chanel

Lots of unnecessary talking

so I'm just wondering about the first critical part of the 4 lets say im at the high rpm and I let off the gas completely... it'll oversteer due to the high engine breaking caused by the high rpm right? couldn't I shift a gear up to counter act this and lower the rpm so that there isn't as much engine breaking therefore im able to let off the gas without the consequences of oversteer but just having less power? what are the cons of this?

Best video I have seen. Finally understand how rear drive car handle works.

Perez Carol Johnson Christopher Rodriguez Kevin

Good tips, and good video. Thanks for posting.

98950 Collins Corner

Braking in straight line is very important too.

The technical side is interesting but I'd imagine is difficult to follow for a new or inexperienced driver. There really is no substitute for getting a proper feel for the car on a track, even if it's in a cart.

Lift off over steer happens in fwd

Ok, a few fundamental points that most people, even yourself overlook as it's convenient to your explanation. true over steer and under steer are characteristics of steering and suspension geometry, You can get additional forces that can be altered by literally changing the parts but not altering the geometries, these are dynamic as you're explaining and tyres, both create the illussion of over steer and under steer, but they are not the same thing. In essence they are the same thing and it comes down to tyre deformation or slip angle in other words, the amount of grip a tyre can produce given the forces acting upon it. This is not steering and suspension geometry, but it may be effected by it. The problem is when you meld the two phenomina to make it simple, it's actually ignoring the root cause and then the method of actually stopping it from happening, if you can! Some suspension designs like swing suspension you can't stop the over steer as it is inherrent part of the design. You can however lower the vehicle to stop the point of the issue really coming into play in real terms, but you can't actually stop it, less lessen it to an acceptable amount. Once the grip is lost you can no longer calculate the geometry and tyre slip angles so therefore it must be a loss of traction (as you have little or none) and thus becomes a skid. Most people unfortunately still characterise this skid as part of the over steer or under steer phenominon, it clearly isn't once you actually understand the difference in the two. Under and over steer do not change because of speed, they are finites of angles, they are calculatable. They do change if the angles change so another force is added or subtracted etc, but once the arc of the suspension or steeering is to the permissible maximum it cannot alter further. What you are explaing it tyre slip angles and the forces acting upon them, this is NOT over steer or under steer, although the real world visual aspects are the same initially, but then they change a lot! Here is a simple way to verify if it is tyre deformation or suspension and steering geometry; change the tyres or their pressure. If it acts in exactly the same way, it's over or under steer, if it doesn't, it's deformation of tyres, and thus grip rather than over or under steer. The simple thing to rethink is loss of traction is a skid, over/under steer is a characheristic od suspension and steering, not tyres. As soon as you start talking tyres, you're off the topic of over/understeer in reality. One final point is you state "lift off oversteer" What that actually is is when a rear wheel lifts off the road, so presents 0 traction, so all the traction has to be gained to the outer wheel that is overwhelmed and the slip angle is exceeded and thus a skid, basically a driver error of some kind, usually going too fast into the corner and this is not due to suspension and steering characteristics per se, but one suspension is bottoming out (full extension) but as no tyre is in contact the angle of the wheel is a technical irrelevance at that point.Tyre dynamics are a whole subject in themselves. The term is obviously being corrupted to mean something different, what you should be calling it is a engine braking skid, as that is what you are actually describing. There is a massive difference in a wheel lifting and the throttle being removed. One thing to consider on this is if the rear wheel does actually lift, the traction will likely bee exceeded because of the torque being applied to the wheel, either positively or negartively in regards to rotation direction, so the inner lifted wheel will either spin faster if power on, or try to reverse the direction in the event of (full) throttle dropped off or somewhere in between the two depending on driver input. If there is still some traction then you'll get the tyre trying to do the same but with resistance and that is called a loss of traction and thus a skid. As for not pinning you down to actual figures, actual figures are obtainable to both tyre deformation and steering and supension geometry factors, they are a mathermatical principal and thus able to be calculated. Skids, are generally not able to be calculated as too many variables, but as physics, it is still possible. Food for thought: Why is the phrase "turn into the skid" not "turn into the over steer"? There is a reason for that, it's expained above.

Another ai yt channel

every example made the concept more complicated

Excellent 👌 Thank you 👍

We drive same car, fk8. Can you do this pls with fwd? Becouse my type r sometimes comes with the rear... but i want it controlled and not randome. So i didn't figure out why sometimes the back is cornering sometimes not. (No engine brake becouse rev match/plip) Sometimes the esp is make it more dangerous, so i turned it off.... onetime i turn 180 in the corner becouse the esp... it dont help me it turn hole car in the corner and brakes strange the wheels wrong alone. Im from Germany and i live @ nurnburgring.

Treat your steering hand and your pedal foot as if they are on opposite sides of a seesaw... As the steering hand goes down, the pedal foot must rise.

Try making more videos in this format please

Hoppe Squares

I have a 71 f100 with a mild built 390fe, t19 manual and a full spool in the rear. Power sliding is how I get it around turns, to keep from from snaping another axle and gives max control for the turn. This means ploting out a turn before hand and set desired speed before hand, so if I need to slow down I will no lift down shift and then back back off the throttle some to engine brake before hand. This ensure I do not loose control of steering and is predictable where Im piching the rear if needed, and keeping a higher rpm means can back off the throttle more to slow down more if needed. It is also important to keep as much distance from objects as possible, so if there ends up being more steer than desired I dont have to rush a correction. Say the rear wanted to pich more because it hit a wet spot, I will back off the trottol first, wait a second or two before corecting the steering, and then get back in the throttol if needed. I know how to and have had to dirve it before, in snow and ice conditions with no traction drifting the hole way to the destination. In those condition, slow and stead is the best path to take so that control is maintained. So basically I do not use the brakes much unless wanting to come to a full stop, and will down shift through each gear with no trottol till Im back in 1st or 2nd before braking. Also is good to know the engagement point of the clutch, since is as far as the clutch needs bliped to get it in a gear and can leave a gear with out touching the clutch. As for steering, if rear is pitching one way the steering gose the other way. So if I want to get the rear to pitch in a desired direction, I steer out slightly from the turn, then I will blip the trottole to get the rear loose as Im lightly steering into the turn, then wiped the wheel the other direction and then slowly recenter till I have control of the slide.

This is the most complicated explanation for rwd cornering and I’m here for it 😅