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When you say too thin, what do you mean? Are they popping out or otherwise not staying in place? Or are they too springy? If buying or making new tensioners is not an option, you can use fine grit sandpaper like a 440 or finer to polish the .50 until it fits. Personally, the little Z-wrench that I use is my go to for 90+% of locks. I've seen similar on Amazon for less than $10. If the thinner ones aren't popping out, it might be a great opportunity to develop a lighter touch. Personally I prefer medium to light tension with the stiffest tensioner that will fit.

Better late than never! Thanks!

I appreciate it! You're very welcome!

I'm so glad that the video and diagrams helped you out!

I have a serious preference for bottom of the keyway tension, and with new locks, I'll start there, unless the keyway is so small that it isn't possible. The lock will tell you if you need top of the keyway or if bottom of the keyway will work. If there are high lifts in the back, and low lifts in front of them, that's often when you need the extra room that top of the keyway will give you.

Spool pins will rarely be first in the binding order. If it is, you'll know because it'll be stiff/binding, and then you'll fall into a false set immediately when you lift it. Medium tension will help you in this process. Whenever you hit a false set, ease up on the tension a bit, and see if you get counter-rotation when you apply a little more pressure to that same pin. Let me know if I'm not clear or not answering the question.

Anti-combing and anti-bump, you are correct!

Tubular locks take a while to get a feel for. Tensioning is difficult, having to pick each pin multiple times to set it is difficult, having to pick the lock over and over again as the core moves one position at a time is difficult... it all adds up to an exercise in frustration and patience.

I'm glad you liked it! The cutout shouldn't affect picking at all. It's purpose is to prevent the key from turning past 90 degrees. With the design of many cores, if they turn 180 degrees, both the driver and key pins can end up in the keyway, seizing up the lock and making it useless.

@@pugspickslocks Good to know, thanks!!

Yay! I'm glad you were able to make your own tool and get it open! It's so cool that you were able to feel the components within the lock!

They're nifty little locks. If you don't move the unsolicited feedback, "zero cut" refers to the key in that there is no cut on the key. "Zero lift" is what I think you meant. "Zero lift" means a pin that doesn't need to be lifted at all, which corresponds to a maximum depth cut on the key.

@pugspickslocks oh sorry, the first three pins have little to no cut and the code on the key indicates they are "0" so they're zero cut (or near it) and zero lift.

Got it! You had your terminology right. Sorry for assuming the opposite! "Zero cut" and "max lift" are the same things, just like "zero lift" and "max cut".

I'm so glad I was able to help!

I totally get that my longer form videos aren't for everyone. I take zero offense if they're not for you and you feel you need to skip them.

I'm a little late replying, so I hope you've popped it by now!

I'm so happy that this video is what you needed!

LOL! I can't argue with you on that!

Thank you! Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with impressioning tool. I've always preferred to pick tubular locks because the impression told are so expensive and you always have to worry about having the right one.

You are very welcome!

I'm so happy that the video helped! Thanks for the sub!

LOL!

I'm glad the tip worked for you!

Hi, thank you! Yes! I'm absolutely happy to share how I practice. For the most part, I do a lot of fidget picking. I'm a very fidgety type of person, so as I watch TV, I'll often have a few locks next to me and I'll fidget with them. I don't always focus on the getting them open; I'll often be focused on how they feel. I'll try to imagine the pick moving in the lock, manipulating the pins, how the pins react, what kind of pins they are based on the feel and feedback. Is like watching a 3D movie in my head. I rarely look at the lock while fidget picking. With a security pin that's new to me, I'll progressive pin a core. I'll pin the lock with a standard pin in position one and the security pin that I'm learning in position two. I'll then play with the lock, fidget pick, and experiment with different tensions, different picks (although I almost always come back to the pagoda hook). When you're working with new security pins, I can't stress the importance of progressive pinning enough. The most important tip, though, is to get used to seeing the lock inside your head, rather than looking at it with your eyes.

Thank you! I appreciate you!

I'm so glad you're enjoying them!

People have a variety of goals for their channels. My goal is to teach and make the hobby accessible to everyone. I'm very glad that you appreciate the videos!

You are most welcome!

Getting newbies off to a strong start is my main goal here!

Once you learn them, they're such fun little locks!

410s are great locks for picking. They can teach you so much and once you get a feel for them, are so much fun! They can be frustrating at first, though.

@@pugspickslocks indeed they can.I’m waiting on a new set of deeper hooks to arrive then il be away I hope🤞🏻

HAH!! Yes, they can def be bumped open. Impact at the correct angle will move the locking arm/plate/thingy enough to let it open.

I just used a piece of a Mtn D can to open a 175 that I found in the street 15 years ago, using your video!!! It’s been hanging in my garage and I’d get it down every once in awhile and try different combos, with no luck. I came across your video a few minutes ago and BAM! It’s a usable lock now! Thank you for posting!

That's awesome! I'm so glad to hear the video helped! You just made my day!

Lefties Lead The Way!

Lady Locks is one of my favorite people in the locksport community! When my channel was new, she was incredibly supportive. She's a great human as well as a great picker! Thank you for the compliment and thank you for the sub!

That's a good practice! Probably easier on your wrists, as well!

LOL! I've never tried an actual blindfold, but I regularly close my eyes, or stare at the TV or wall. Being able to see the inside of the lock in your head is a great skill to develop!

@@pugspickslocks Even just a cloth over your hands will do. Half the challenge is to get the tensioner in! 😀

Yeah. That would really help develop a sense of feel and touch.

I totally get that my long form videos aren't to everyone's taste, and I take no offense when folks need to pass me by.

That's great advice, and I totally agree!

I'm glad to have helped you out! Thank you for the sub!

That's another good video idea, thank you!

@@pugspickslocks However, the tool can become jammed in the lock and will require a knife tool to release the pins.

I've never tried bypassing it. Mebbe I'll do a video on that in the future.

@@pugspickslocks The problem is is the tools to fully displace both locking paws for the No. 5 doesn't exist commercially. You'll have to make them yourself.

You are very welcome! The newer locks with the tighter tolerances and the anti-shimming measures are buggers... I'm happy to help!

You are most welcome!

No. If you bypass the lock, you cannot recode it. You need to decode the combination to recode it.

Nice! I received this one in a care package of assorted locks, so it came as is. I might look into getting a new one with the package you mentioned.

Hey, thanks for the compliment and the sub!

Thanks Jeff! I'm amazed that this hasn't been addressed. It's such a simple thing to fix!

Hey, thanks for watching and commenting! I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks Adam! If you wanna dip a foot in the world of combo locks, this is good model to tackle for a first foray.

@@pugspickslocks Thanks for the tip, Pugs At dome point I'd like to!