วีดีโอ

I totally agree. This is of course a marketing ploy by the manufacturers to get us to buy their products. However, (since this was a “talk about” video) there are a couple of thins that go with that. The manufacturer obviously wants to gain a return on their investment on tooling quickly and also want to avoid overruns and the consequent storage and investment issues. In other words, this is in the advantage of the producer. BUT wouldn’t they sell more models if we were able to save up and purchase? Clearly they don’t think so. On the other hand, looking at a local model shop here. The poor guy that owns it I think would be jsut fine if he sold out and could go home and stay there. The amount of ‘dead stock’ is incredible. two whole shelves are just for a particular obscure kind of dual gauge track presumably that someone once asked for and he got a “good deal” on. Imagine having one or two of every model every manufacturer ever made! What would that cost? We all thought Hattons were the solution with their on line “we’ve got everything” solution. Sadly not. I don’t have answers other than to say learning to be content with what IS available and patiently waiting with strict budget restraint is the solution I’ve “chosen”. Hobsons choice maybe but choice it is! All food for thought. Perhaps club layouts are a good idea? thanks for making me think.

Oh dear! “Here’s one I prepared earlier!” Well I hope you enjoy the videos. It’s just me being me. 😜

Thanks - I knew I could rely on the comments to find answers! 😜 I DID look it up ( I got too curious) The “Vestibule” designation must mean there were some without those. I must look and see what the various versions were. Certainly several visited up down on the south east coast. Thanks for looking that up and for watching.

I’m going to receipt the 40 soon. I’m half thinking about a sound chip but it’s a cost thing. The shipping is stupid expencive these days.

@@ChobertonJunction Thank you. I’m frantically trying to get more organized so that I can do these videos justice. Hope you enjoy them - thanks for watching

yes! My memory isn’t good enough otherwise. “I must get around to …” becomes the norm. 😊

Lovely! SO much of what we do is usually to stretch our imagination over and over again. The fully accurate layouts that “do it right” are rare and very few and far between. As an example of our ‘weirdness’ I have a semaphore signal looking plank on the wall in the train room. I’ve often been asked where I got it. I got it in the local DIY place - it used to be a plank. I introduced it to paint and that’s what happened! 😜 Thanks for watching.

@asynchronoushakai McKinley is amazing! Of course it does! 😊 I must take the time to look and see that. I don’t have the patience for the detail they have gone into with RFID and just about every other thing but it is amazing and totally interesting. I need a whole other life to even think through their systems - let alone implement stuff. LOVE it though. Thanks for watching.

The problem with capacitors is that they add up. Unless you are really careful about where you put them they defeat the object of the exercise totally. If you have ONE in ONE loco that’s just fine but that same train (as you say in the case of the Pullman Cars) has much larger crude ‘stay alive’ fitted, these can add up and actually negate the small value spark suppressors. I appreciate your common sense aproach. However, spark suppression was of course there for the benefit of others not the actual user. (I think they were even legally required at one point?) Anyway, all good comments (thanks) ((Now I think one of MY replies is missing too!)) Basically I said, I find your “drive to the signals” fascinating. Of course that’s how it works in reality in most cases but in the model railway scene (and certainly on mine) signals are placed where trains stop rather than trains to signals if you see what I mean. The casual observer might THINK the trains stopped because the signal is red but the reality is the signal is read because the trains stopped (if you see what I mean). The illusion is sound but when you know - you know as it were. DCC (well the ‘Train Controller’ part of dcc) actually stops the trains but not because of signals. Those are changing to reflect the occupancy is all. Realism is only possible realistically with many more hands than I have. I really appreciate your input - interesting and probably very frustrating for you watching us all try to reinvent the wheel. Thanks for watching.

@@trainsofthought5071 Maybe you didn't notice my "handle" ? I'm the Professional expert that has left you a number of Posts recently. My previous Post was to point out the absurd and damaging problems of Hornby & Co putting Capacitors in Model Locos & Hornby Pullmans. Capacitors being one of the major reasons that jack up the Amperage draw found on DCC layouts. And as I previously mentioned the absurd draw of 5Amps on a 12v DC layout of a Hornby Britannia & 12 Pullmans with LED table lamps. One of the reasons for this totally unacceptable and dangerous draw, was the inclusions of Capacitors in all these vehicles. All of which had to be ripped out, and all the vehicles rewired properly to suit a Professional 12v DC Exhibition layout, and avoid excessive draw. And also ensure locos run perfectly smoothly without all the nasty, jittering, & jerky behaviour I see on virtually every British DCC exhibition layout. Indeed a major reason I would never entertain DCC, is it is aimed at the "Toy train set brigade" and cannot allow a professional layout to Operate in a realistic Railway rule abiding manner. The best example of the problem being the now well known "Bournemouth West" Exhibition Layout. Which is a virtual perfect and exact recreation of Bournemouth West (Terminus) in steam days. But clearly reveals when being operated a string of issues. And amusingly one of its chief designers & planners recommended against using DCC for that reason, but the "younger" members wanted DCC due to their ignorance ! I have very strict criteria when building exhibition layouts, as my aim is to have the best operational layout in any & every show my layouts attend. So minimum radius of curves are set at 5ft radius, (OO scale) to almost guarantee derailment free running. All visible pointwork must be Scratchbuilt. Because NO commercially made points are reliable enough electrically or operationally for smooth running. And another important criteria is that the layout must be capable of ensuring one or more trains pass every visible part of the layout at the rate of at least one train per minute to hold viewer attention (and the crowds). Full signalling using Track Circuit Control methods to ensure all signalling functions exactly as it does in real life, which obviously means full "Interlocking" is also required. Proper control panels with the same capabilities as a real signalbox (and I usually copy early BR 1960's route setting computer box panels). All operators require considerable training if they aren't ex BR Drivers or Signalmen. Because I also have a simplified version of "Train approaching" indicators on the panels. And of course large mainline complex layouts (with multiple operators) have to be operated to a type of sequence timetable. To ensure all operators function in unison, and don't try cramming to many trains into the Fiddle Yard or a Bay platform at one time. Hence large layouts also require real life railway Logistic methods. Which makes "operation" of my layouts a hundred times more realistic and enjoyable than is possible with DCC. You have to drive your train, according to the signals, and your panel repeaters will show the state of the line ahead, and reveal if another operator, has accidentally set up a conflicting route - Just as in real life ! And certainly in mainland Europe where there are dozens of large Club layouts on the exhibition circuit, these layouts use similar techniques to mine !

@ I may have missed a couple of your comments - I DO try to read them all but sometimes they don’t show up when replies to replies. On the DCC thing, I totally agree and yet… I have it! 😊 My reasoning is that I can’t single-handedly operate this particular layout without it easily. I also ‘get’ that it’s mainly aimed at the model train set people. I’ve “Converted” as it were but a LOT of my interest in model railways is to do with the electronics and electrical systems and putting my hands on things to work out how to do things. My biggest problem personally is the lack of people here that are really interested in this particular set up. OO in America? Really?? And it’s English outline? HA! Model railroading here has much more to do with the sectional systems that end up with mile long trains at exhibitions. And has you have previously stated, the American signaling system is … well … MY signals are better on the model railways is and I don’t have many yet! At least I’ve planned for them!! I can’t imagine how it works here in real life. Seriously I do appreciate your input. I have a full time job too and so can’t address every comment fully but thanks so much for taking the time to share your obvious wealth of knowledge. I appreciate it. Thanks. (From a former electronic engineer mostly in the maritime sector).

😊 “Remembering” is another way of defining age. Be careful 😜

@ haha yes to that too. 😀

OK I’m getting enough feedback that I will need to do that soon it seems. 😊 Thanks for watching.

😊 Thanks for watching. I’ll try and get the shuttle circuit done in a couple of weeks. Watch this space! Thanks for the encouragement and you are welcome to “borrow.”

Thanks. I’ll try and get that one done in a couple of weeks. Thanks for watching.

@@tomhoustonmodelrail-nk7eh Glad you like it 😊 Thanks for watching

@@peternorris6438 Thanks 😊 Just a little something to get things rolling.

Looking forward to the one on shuttles

I’d better get on with it then! 😜

😊 The Gronk is much wider than any other loco I have - I wasn’t having issues before that. To make things worse, the platforms are glued and screwed down. Not doing that again! Thanks for watching

@@aleopardstail 😜 sometimes the simplest things are fun. The track current (volts) can change a good bit too and won’t affect the LEDs. This project just not suitable for DCC is all. Thanks for watching. Glad you found it interesting.

@@Hawaii_HO Thanks. I’ll make those when I’m waiting for bits for the layout 😊 Take a look at the “Street Organ Sound” videos a few weeks ago. Weird title but has applications with the layout and especially station areas. Thanks for watching, glad you find the series useful. 😊

We’ll get to that 😜 Seriously, the one I use with the tram is a simple home made multi-vib. it’s easy enough to make but thought we’d better start off with something really simple. of course there are ‘Off the shelf’ commercial shuttle control boxes available, this signal idea - although crude - would work with those too. thanks for watching.

@@trainsofthought5071 thanks looking forward to it

@@michaelplayford4916 glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching

@@phil36310 there’s so much that using a few electrical tricks brings to the hobby. Thanks for watching

Oh I’m sure an expert will come along ant tell us all we’re wrong 😜 but it’s worked for me for 50 years. The solder of course is flux cored - I only use separate flux for weird stuff (like rails) where the extra time and heat tends to burn off the limited flux in the solder itself. “Dead solder” simply has no flux left, it’s burned off and so is useless. Thanks for watching.

​@@trainsofthought5071if the solder flows - we can assume it's a joint. But figuring what is causing an attempt to solder to just not happen!!! Requires deeper knowledge, thanks!!

@@peternorris6438 Thanks. 😊

@trainsofthought5071 you are a bit like me I can run anything on my layout that suits me or as a special meaning for l use to see the golden arrow with Pullman coaches at speed going through sturdy station where I grew up so hence I them on my layout

Meant sturry station

You’d have had very similar stuff flashing through there as we did on the Dover end of things. That’s the Ramsgate victoria line isn’t it? More non stop stuff I think over there than we ever had.

Thats the one! A friend dragged me over there on our way to somewhere or other. I must look again at the map to see where we would have been going because it always seemed a bit in the middle of nowhere. Thanks!

Yup, probably! 😊 Older Locos had magnetic wheels (or magnets really close to the wheels) to help traction on steal rails. Occasionally they picked up things around the layout but if you have iron filings around the layout you might have another issue 😜 It hasn’t been a huge issue on layouts where I’ve used this. Good question though. Thanks.

You have the DC to DCC thing exactly! People tend to make it super complicated but as you are describing, it needn’t be. Kadee couplings are amazing! They are unheard of in the UK mostly and NONE of my stock has them … YET! I have a box of them and intend to run around and fit them eventually but there is just so many more important things (well more URGENT at least) to do first. Working a UK model here in the USA is tough - not unlike you trying to find turn of the century bits. I don’t have the skills (or the patience) to build rolling stock but unless I go visit England soon I may be out of bits.

The circuit I show is the simplest of all but there are other ways to do that. I think I’d use the reed relay to trigger another circuit. Perhaps a timed flashing circuit or something. The basics I’ll cover over time, the trick is to string those basic tricks together into a useful circuit. Hope I’m helping?

@@kitchenhamfarm Ha! Well I DON’T get away with the living room usually. I sometimes take small parts up there but I’m fortunate enough to have most of the basement available. Underground Eric I think has someone very understanding or is visiting her Mum or something. If so I would n’t want to be him when she gets back! Seriously though, if I can keep it from the total mess stage and clean up after each ‘adventure’ others tend to want to have a go. Thanks for watching.

@@stevem9754 Thanks! Yes, for sure family and friends are more important than hobbies. I enjoy any time I can involve the other members of the family in aspects of the model railway they enjoy. Shadow (our newer dog) certainly likes to be in the train room but she’s a bit clumsy. Sparky out other dog rarely visits that room. There are few soft furnishings for him to sleep on down there. Thanks ro watching and thanks for the comment.

Yes, that’s right. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching. 😊

@@martinbrain3372 I held out on DCC for many years. I can do most of what I want to do with DC for sure BUT the few benefits of DCC that ARE beneficial are fantastic. One biggie - parking Locos on the same track - and yes I know you CAN do that with DC but DCC makes that one easy. The sound thing - I agree there HAS to be systems that aren’t train mounted that could be a fraction of the price of those loco mounted sound chips. I’m playing around with a couple of ides on that (watch this space!) but too many other projects and too many long work days to get to that just now. For now I’m just trying to improve what is there - eventually we’ll build something from scratch again and see how much of what I continue to learn I’ll be able to apply to that. Thanks for the input,.

Yes. I’m coving very basic principles at this point and trying to create a “flash” for the underground trains pick up but once the principle is established we can try all sorts of fun things. Thanks for the suggestion. and thanks for watching, there are indeed all sorts of applications for ‘latching relays’ reed or otherwise. 😊

Love it! I could do that probably. The underground stock has no couplings is only thing. Thanks for watching.

Yes, and putting scenes around the layout that remind me of stuff is like some people have pictures on the mantel or something. Fun! Thanks for watching.

I’m convinced someone over at LUL was a Model Rail guy who ran whatever they wanted and liked class 20s. 😊 … What a great job, choosing which real train to play with. ha.

Yes, I think you are right. Most of us do that to some extent (well there are the serious rivet counters who would have a heart attack but other than that!) I used to have a Dutch loco and finally got some wagons it could pull before I passed it on to someone else. That didn’t ‘fit’ but I still ran it. With all the Era 1 models around these days I’m expecting York Museum to have a fair share of modeling going on. Thanks for watching. Keep enjoying the hobby. 😊

Well aware this is basic but by the looks of it, some needed that. I’m onto DCC and automatic running but some can’t get trains running at all. We’ll get there 😜 That’s the problem sometimes - we use a computer to do something simple but by the time we do it can’t remember why! Seriously, we’ll get to the heavy high end stuff but some needed the basics first. That link in the description takes you to much smaller magnets and sleeper like reed switches - though smaller still are available. More to come, thanks for your patience . and thanks for watching. 😊

@@trainsofthought5071 brilliant thanks

😊 I jsut realized some of us will have been there3 done that before some if this stuff was invented! Still a great trick and sometimes the old ways are still just fine. Thanks for watching 😊

yes. This could be used to trigger DCC controlled things too. Block or section occupied units don’t always have to be current detectors. Mostly this is to show there are a bunch of ways to do things. I think I must have had that particular Peckett since the dawn of time though. The new ones are very much smaller.

@@freedomisfromtruth I was trying to see where I got these switches. Somewhere I say “these will be expensive because they say model railway on the pack so must have been a higher price. Places like the old “Radio Shack” or “Tandy” are lions gone but would have been where I went in the past. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.

Thanks. Sorry I took a while to get to the point there. I’m feeling my way with this stuff and trying to stay “dirt basic” on one end while still giving those who already get this stuff something to think about. A couple other basic electronic sessions coming while I wait for bits for the railway to get here. Thanks for watching.

LOTS of good things in this response - thank you - I’m sure it will be helpful. The point of this video though was to show HOW to use reed switches IF you are interested in using them. I do LOVE the use of the wired things but in my case will use the reed switch since only the electric trains then trigger the ‘spark’ not the diesel or steam using the same line. I’m not sure I’m a fan of the “dead section” in that I can see an LED getting “flashed” on every metal wheel (so inappropriate flashing) rather than where it’s needed. DC control is MUCH easier from a logical brain point of view but of course DCC is more versatile. Thanks so much for the detailed response though and thanks you for watching.

Since you are digging into the weeds here (I LOVE that - Thank You!) I really believe it is possible using some of the advanced methods you are describing, to ‘out wire’ DCC! I mean by that, use less wire to accomplish more. BUT there is a push back. It hadn’t occurred to me (since I use DCC and run an Aux DC power bus too for accessories such as house lights etc) that you would try to run the LEDs from track power. Hmmm. You are right of course that LED’s only work ‘one way’ but that could be solved with steering diodes or a second back to back LED or whatever but I hadn’t considered using track power with DCC. I’m trying to think of a reason I wouldn’t do that other than it tends to be finicky enough without me putting extra stuff on it. I’m now tempted to give it a go. 😊 Since it’s a form of AC a rectifier cct with the diode would mean it always worked. (Points to dcc on this one perhaps?) Again, thanks for your obviously experienced input. I’m trying to hit some dirt basic stuff for beginners as well as make the rest of us think.

@@trainsofthought5071 Indeed another tip ! Don't mix DC and AC accessories on layouts. DC of course just like Mother Nature creates an electro-magnetic field around a DC electrical Flow. So AC & DC wires when run parallel can result in odd erratic interference. Just one more reason I use TCC Track Circuit Control, which still uses the basic 12v DC equipment available. Which leads to the next issue. I'm fully aware of all the details of who originally invented "DCC" (Which in its first Incarnation back in 1987 was called Zero 1). And how it got to where it is. Hornby's "Zero 1" was a cheap budget attempt to boost Hornby's then deplorable financial situation. It was immediately "hijacked" and carted away by German & American manufacturers, who had more money to chuck at it. But herein lies the original fundamental mistake. The Germans of course like Britain have Railways that use various types of Sophisticated (and basically safe) "Block Signalling" systems, such as Absolute Block & Track Circuit Block. In the USA they had effectively dumped passenger trains (1964), and much of their expensive (profit guzzling) signalling. And expanded CTC (Central Traffic Control) which uses Radio messages between "Signalmen" and "Train Drivers" often tens of Miles apart, with simple & crude verbal "Orders to proceed". And the main cause of most of the serious passenger train accidents that have occurred ever since. All of which resulted in TWO non compatible "DCC" systems being introduced. It now became a "War" of market supremacy between the TWO systems German & American. The German system being far more sophisticated and already providing some methods to cope with "Block Signalling". But the German manufacturers also have a large finger in the American market (there are in reality a sizeable percentage US customers building European type layouts in the US). At this point the huge NMRA (North American Model Railroad Association) Club. With over 2 Million members, stuck its nose into this issue. Many shopkeepers in the USA rely heavily on the NMRA "product review section" in the regular NMRA publication for "NMRA recommendation" of reviewed new products. And the NMRA are not averse to slating products they don't like. And the German DCC system, not being made in the USA, and including "weird and complex" controls was slammed as "Not NMRA approved". Many Shopkeepers therefore refused to stock the German system, especially the Fleischmann made system. Fleischmann almost went bankrupt over this one issue and sold out to Roco as a result. Having lost an estimated 2 Million Euros in development of their version of DCC). So ended the marketing battle, and the US system became dominant. But its only designed with CTC in mind. Hence is absolutely Useless to anyone making a layout based on British, European or Japanese type railways, all of which use "Block Signalling" methods. The only way to cope with "Block Signalling" methods involving DCC is to build the "solution" into the "Master Controller". "After Sales" DCC Accessories cannot cope with this issue, despite "marketing claims" to the contrary. It is NOT beyond DCC to cope, as we have real life modern Computer signalboxes in Europe, and their methods can be adopted and incorporated into a DCC controller, as Fleischmann proved. My TCC (Track Circuit Control) system is simply a pre Digital method which does exactly as the Fleischmann DCC controller did. But my system obviously avoids all the many other electrical issues of using 16v AC in the rails. Which include the horrendous costs, electrical interference issues, and of course the big (Fire) dangers of the major increase in Amperage Draw unavoidable with DCC. Hence a DCC layout has to use heavy and expensive wiring. While I can continue to use Burglar Alarm cable, which is as tiny as Telephone wire, but rated for a maximum 50v @ 3 amps. Or 5 amps at 15volts. More than enough for a large loco & 12 carriages all illuminated with LED lighting. However exactly the same train on DCC will draw as much as 10 amps. And Multiple trains on the one DCC Controller doesn't bear thinking about !!!!!

@@railwaymechanicalengineer4587 Again a lot of data there. I’n aware of Zero One and some of the ‘pre roco’ systems. The one I use is Digitrax but only as an interface to “Train Controller” the German program that does such a good job. (And yes I know there are cheaper share ware options). The one thing that puzzles me is how you are getting such high current pull on your DCC experience? I often run 4 or 5 trains at once with one ‘controller’ (base station) and it has never been a problem. Indeed, the power supply I’m using is only rates at 5 Amps I believe and that is running everting DCC. I DO run with a mix of DC and AC for accessories but I’’m well aware of induction and so just keep things suitably apart and not in the same wiring loom. Average current draw for each of my trains (with or without lighting) is less than aa quarter of an amp, often a LOT less. All interesting stuff. As for safety and so on. Yes, the American rail thing is scary once you deep dive BUT I’m only running models - not the real thing!! I also wonder sometimes if some of our model systems are better run than the real thing when looking at some systems. Thanks for your extensive comments and for watching. 😊

@@trainsofthought5071 The amperage increase that occurs with DCC is also dependant on what manufacturers trains are used, and particularly the quality of the locomotives motor. How many accessories such as "Sound fitted" and other accessories. But the nastiest shock I got was running a 12 car Hornby Pullman set behind a large Pacific (All then brand new products). These carriages have LED table lamps, that's around 110 LEDs in the train. Now these LED's shouldn't need much being of the 1.5v variety. So having dismantled a couple of these Pullmans to find out what makes them tick. I discovered a lot of other electronics hidden under the seating. The problem being that such models have to be able to "identify" whether you are using 12v DC or 16v AC in the track. And cope with the fact that these LED's must illuminate in both directions when running on traditional 12v DC (4 Diodes in a quadrant being part of the electronics necessary for each vehicle). The electronics included also revealed why these models are usually the most expensive carriages Hornby produce. I first ran the train on my normal 12v DC layout which had large minimum 5ft radius curves. (Curvature can also increase the amperage draw !) But the train tripped out ALL my controllers (which have a 3 AMP max rating) no matter which one I used. I put a meter on each track in turn, and found the whole train including the Loco (Hornby BR Britannia) was trying to pull 5 AMPS. I then took the whole train down to my local (German) Model Railway Club, as they had a large DCC layout. The train happily ran but the amperage draw was now 9 AMPS. I took the whole lot home, and removed all the expensive electronics, and rewired each carriage so the table lamps would still work on 12v DC in both directions. Now the AMPERAGE draw fell to 2.7 Amps, and the train stopped cutting out my "Gaugemaster Inertia" panel mount controllers, each coupled to a separate naked Transformer each with a proper plated rectifier (not an electronic version) inside the relevant control panels. The Club however did reveal that when members were running numerous trains on their layout, that the total layout draw would often exceed 20 AMPS ! The had wired knowing this, so had no "fires" !!!

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

Give it a go! 😀 What’s the worst that can happen? Seriously, I’m happy to answer questions or whatever. This channel really has only come to life in the past couple of months but there are already a good number of people with loads of knowledge out there who seem willing to share.

Thanks for the tips - I appreciate you. We have a Harbor Freight close by. (I just got a bin organizer for my Son’s Lego - probably should get another for my mess of bits and pieces.) Thanks for watching.

Thanks - I’ll put some chapter marks in once I get a minute and work out how.

LED’s are stupid things. They don’t know when to stop! So the core issue is that they will pass whatever current is available and self destruct. LEDs are typically rated at around 20 mA - depending on the color or type that changes a little. If you assume the LED to be a short circuit (it isn’t before I get a bunch of hate mail 😜) but if you assume that then you can work out the values of the resistor by Ohms law depending on the volts you are applying. The actual range of current that will “be OK” is kinda broad so often we just put in a resistor that will AT LEAST limit to 20 mA. Now, mostly, because they are literally pennies a dozen, I use one per LED. You CAN use one for a few but it’s not the best idea. Differing brightness, when one fails harder to find, consistency etc etc. I’ve noticed these days that LEDs are getting sold WITH resistors and in some cases already soldered to the LED. (I have a bag full of 12v rated LEDs that this is the case.) Bottom line, you need to limit the current flow so yes, resistors are needed. Hope this helps?

@@trainsofthought5071 Thankyou for a comprehensive reply which answered all my questions... Cheers Peter. New subscriber...

🙂 hope it helped.

Agreed. The main thing is to get rid of that “dead” solder. Reality is I used a lab coat and the sleeve is where my “rag” was but I rally didn’t want to teach that! 😜 Thanks for the comment. It’s hard to know the level to get to in these videos but I’ll ‘react’ and see where we go. Thaks for watching.

No, each Loco has a different address. All new chips come with ‘3’ as a default. Once installed they are programmed by the user (me) to whatever address you choose. The issue in this particular case is that some older chips will lose their memory and revert to ‘3’ under certain situations and so need reprogramming. I have a couple of Locos which routinely do that and lose their coding and revert to ‘3’. When that happens at the same time it gets to be a problem getting the locos where I want them without them both moving at the same time. There are some situations on this layout where two chips have the same (or very similar) coding but that’s to do with the underground stock that has a chip in each end of the train for the two driving cars. Thanks for asking though and thanks for watching. 😀

I’m discovering the real world has a story for everything. In this case I’m actually feeling a LOT better about my mini mistakes on the layout! 😀