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be caredul drinking stagnant water jon. dysentery will get you eventually

Amazing skill, you should wear helmet and place more protection gear

What a Master.

🙈🙈🙈

Para que la cuerda ?? Si no pone seguros....

Ive done Super crack with 4 pieces. But 3 on IHC is boss lol

These videos are incredibly cool and helpful, thank you for uploading

The route is called Luxury Liner, nicknamed Supercrack. Its first ascent was by my close friends Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster and Brian Becker in the mid 70s. Please call it Luxury Liner. Earl didn’t like super crack!

You know he could have set some gear way be for he did. to make the rout safer no talk on that he even amits it. Good climder though ill admit that

Was that rain or snow at the end?

It’s 5.8, don’t kid yourself.

textbook technique

If you ever feel useless, imagine being the belayer.

groove on the left looks a tad more difficult.

Thank you

I think that after 6:00, if he had taken a fall, that would've been it. The path that his gear was placed in would've slammed him into a mantle

can’t believe the fuckin’ nerds in these comments. do ya’ll even climb? Jay Smith is a G, who embodies the bold and free spirit of trad climbing.

" First time I led it I probably put in more than 2 cams in ". That was hilarious.

Got to keep that rope in front of your feet, every time it passes behind his heal I cringe. If you fall with that rope orientation your gonna flip and it's gonna suck...

when you really trust your friends.

Thanks for uploading these.

Jay is a god - I met him twenty years ago when he was climbing Hydrophobia up in Alberta Ghost region - he has to be 65 easy ten years older than me....great to see - a true icon of American Alpinism and rock and ice climbing

Shit does happen....justsayn...

very strong man -technique., power versus age -exelent

got jams, don't need cams. his confidence is inspiring.

he's old but he got more fitness than me and i am 24

Great Video when he's not talking. I was hoping he'd fall just to shut the fuck up.

Get one of those fuzzy things to put over your mic so it's shielded from the wind.

I have climbed with Jay at Super Crack Buttress a few times. The fact he is supposedly guiding is a joke! Reminds me of the old John Long Learning to Climb films. No helmet is just for starters. Jay is a great climber but terrible guide and has been freeloading off his families trust for a long time. Cams Skid even at Indian Creek and people that fall off usually land on or hit their heads. Again, reminds me of the bullshit John Long learning to climb films.

Is it just me or did this guy take way too long to place any gear - especially if you are teaching? After all teaching good technique is pointless if your students take a massive fall and cripple themselves.

Guys, it's Jay freaking Smith he lives near Indian creek and has several FAs in Patagonia and has been climbing before nuts were invented he is one of the originals. Climbing is self expression he doesn't place gear becuase HE is comfortable doesn't mean you can't place more. Aside from the fact he has climbing IHC a millions times. You are seeing a clip of a video you don't know what all was discussed...long story short, shut the fuck up.

I don't like how the rope goes behind his leg for a bit at 6:25. If he fell there, he'd be flipped upside down and hit his head on the wall.

The number of protections is absolutely OK!!!!! More is overprotected! Such a crack don't let you fall out - here jamed is jamed! The crack shown here jams so good, the surface of the rock inside the crack is smooth and gives a good friction. (fine grained sandstone) If you moan here your haven't understood how the technique (watch video again!) or you are a Mollycoddle! Later cahnge to cracks in limestone, granite, raugh grained Sandstone, finger cracks, off width - and then a crack like this here you will call 'easy rubbish'.

Can I say it is not good practice to be teaching people to not place gear. Climbing is not about ego, he has all cams that are fast and easy to place there are no excuses.

I don't climb but have interests in coiling rope. This is one of my fav videos on the topic. Great technique, easy to follow & straight to the point…

I was making such a huge mess out of my coils This is really easy and really smart Thanks!

i know exactly where that is

i always get problems with my feet when i climb cracks. They hurt so much everytime

He was teaching crack climbing technique. Presumably, his students already know how to place pieces. You do not recognize true mastery

Put some gear in!!!😄

He's a guide, why should he pretend he is a gym slob. On steep cracks there is a burn factor from carrying extra gear, placing it, and dragging the rope through it. He presumably didn't place low because it wasn't going to stop him hitting the deck, in one of the other vids his belayer was like 10 feet out from the rock. Then say when the pro might have done some good, you still are at a point where you only get coverage for a short while until you are back looking at a gorund fall. If at that point you are bomber, you just keep going. Presumably he placed where the hands where not full on solid, and at points where he had the best ratio of being able to run out some rope without ground fall potential, but no more than that. If he is sane he isn't ignoring his safety he is calculating it.

So have you exceeded the fall factors if you have then if your not dead on this climb eventually the numbers will get you Also why would you teach students or anyone to ignore safety. ?.. I love extreme sports ... flying, skydiving, windsurfing and am now returning to climbing..... Every one of these is our responsibility to promote safety following check lists and staying with In eatery margins This guy isv an ego a silent ego showing off.... Just because you don't yell out look at me Listen to these guys they are impressionable and will emulate you. ?.. And concerning the guys comments about this being like climbing a ladder to him ... so what he is unsafe if he is so great why did he use any anchors at all I have no problem with free climbers but my god don't set bad examples with rope for students

I would've placed 3 or 4 pieces before he put in his first. That was actually kinda scary to watch

Makes it look so easy and efficient

A tad windy, was it?

me thinking: "any day now he will place a piece, any day now. . ."

I wish I could climb with this guy a few times. It would be like hanging out with the gandolf of trad. teach me oh great wizard >.<

if You know how to jam, it doesnt hurt that bad. Its much safer technique than dufler when trad climbing

It's always a pain when they ask you to belay them and then free solo the thing...

Here's how you.....WIND.....it's important to always.....WINDDDDD.....and don't forget to stay away from....WINNNNNDDDDD