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Mine aren’t 125mm in the front. I’m at 115. I talk a little about it starting at 4:25 in the video. A quick guess to help, lengthen your top link and shorten your lower links. Go one turn at a time, alternating top then bottoms, retesting each time. This will improve your diff to driveshaft angle. I’m using stock driveshafts BTW. I can share more info about my progression and see if something helps you. High Trail stock shocks have 110mm length and 25mm travel, so full extension is 110, full compression is 85, no binding. A tremendous amount of body rub though. Fix all that, then remove the compression spacer on the shock and you get 35mm travel, so still 110 but now 75 at compression, massive diff/panhard interference not to mention tires, bumper, body, etc. up travel is limited to low 80s realistically with lots of adjustments to the truck. I see why Traxxas slapped a 10mm spacer on the shock. I thought, ok, go longer with the same travel. As soon as I lengthened the shock beyond 110, my driveshaft locked up, not when articulating but when both sides drop, like hill climbing. I started making adjustments to my upper and lower suspension links to improve diff angle and freed up about 5mm of length I could add. Beyond that and you start hanging up your drag link for steering. My current Dravtech front shocks (the ones in the video) I built by adjusting the end eyelet lengths to the extension and compression lengths I wanted (the limits my current geometry will allow) and measure 115/83. I spent quite a few hours with a Dremel to clean up, clearance, and relieve the links, diff, panhard, tie rod, and drag link to get it done. The fun part about front ends is you change 1 thing and you’re sure you’ve got it right, then discover 2 more things that aren’t working now. Good luck, hope that helps.

@@PoleKat11 i think based on what you've said my shocks are just too dang long. I either have to make longer links exceeding the 324mm wheels base kit, or shorten the shocks to 110 or 115. i dnt think i would have a wheel problem clearing the 2.2s on account of i installed 50mm axle stubs. But after 4-5 turns on the end links they jst bend and dnt work. ive upgraded to 30mm endlinks so there shud be an extra 10mm on top of the already longer shafts.

AMain has them. Frixion Rekoil +5mm www.amainhobbies.com/frixion-rc-rekoil-shock-5mm-bottom-rod-ends-8-frxbr50/p1280208

Thank you!

Thank you 🤗

That’s good news. I was surprised (and happy) that my wear slowed down after the initial corner broke over. They’re good tires, and I think they even have a little better forward drive now than when they were new. I like that they can transition from loose or mud and still go to the rocks and grab.

I’ve always thought the front axle sets too far rearward. The links are adjustable, so you can move either axle forward or back a few mm to suite your eye. But I think the real issue with the front is the portal box king pin position is really inwards so far that it makes the tires look either way forward or way rearward whenever you’re steering (a lot of scrub). Also very few 1:1 trucks have anything approaching the level of articulation we take for granted in hobby. That exacerbates the axle position issue. I wonder if anybody has done a leaf spring conversion on a TRX4. I’m sure somebody has! That would look sweet but have to trade a ton of flex for it.

Yes, for uncompressed length those numbers sound good. But you’ll need to consider the compressed length also. I don’t have a set of Lizards to measure, but I looked them up. Assuming both the 110s and 120s are similar travel to the stock GTS shocks at 35mm travel once you get the springs setup for droop, you’ll have to keep an eye on how much tire interference you have. And in the front, with the pan hard/diff interference you’ll be hard pressed to use even that much travel. I lengthened my upper link to improve driveshaft angle, and removed LOTS of plastic with a Dremel on the diff and I ended up with about 30mm of useable shock travel in the front. I had to put limiters in to keep it from bottoming and binding. It’s a 3 way battle between link end pivots, panhard, and driveshaft universal. I like to set up the shocks so they carry the load. Flipping springs around on the lizards may change the full compressed & uncompressed lengths a few mm. I’d def start with the ones you are looking at. 110s up front, 120s in the back.

Thanks, I’m learning as I go, but having fun always!

I’d recommend any of the High Trails. They are fun and very capable, and sooo good lookin!

@@PoleKat11 I ended up buying it and should have some videos out on it soon. Thanks.

LOL, oh yes! She sings! Fusion Pro to the rescue. The family complains about it to with the acoustics in my home, apparently the tone “carries well” in the house late at night from the basement to the bedrooms. Funny, I got no grief from the wife when I told her I was gonna spend $150 to quiet it up a bit.

Yes, I started misspeaking there. It’s 35 in front and 45 in the back. That’s what I’m running here. Before, with the stock GTS shocks I found little difference from 15-35 weight, didn’t have much resolution when changing weights. Now with the Dravtechs, the ones in this video, they have significantly more oil to displace and tighter fitting pistons so I can start to see the truck behavior change as I change oils. Even so, 35vs45 isn’t much different. The reason I went with 45 in the back is bc I noticed it was a little bouncy the last time I was out with 35 and wanted to slow them down. Shock oil preference changes with the weather (literally) and also with driving style, so treat as FYI more than a recommendation. What I do recommend though, if you’re serious, is buying all the oils. It’ll be the least of your costs and your worries when the thought occurs to you “What I really need to do is to slow down those rear shocks!” 😂 NE Ohio.

@@PoleKat11 thanks for the info 👍 I try

Thanks, it’s why we do it!

@@PoleKat11 👍😆

Wow, that’s a great gift! The shocks themselves are not the first things to change, imo. The stock GTS shocks are quite good when setup properly. Any aftermarket shocks will need a similar amount of tuning to achieve the same results. There’s several other related items that I addressed with body lift, weight, link length, and steering before new shocks. M3 spacer kit for body lift, Dremel tool for steering clearance, front mount battery/diff cover/portal weights for balance, then tune shocks. I rebuilt my seal packs to minimize friction, changed springs to 0.39 rate, added FrixionRC +5 ends, removed limiters on the shaft, and in the rear leaned them forward. For control I also made DIY shock bands that were a game changer. For the record, I do have Dravtech longs on there now, they look cool but with work they perform similar to the GTSs, it’s in the tuning. I would avoid cheap shocks as it’s likely to be a downgrade. Lizards, Traxxas, and Axial have good shocks but it’s all in the setup. Dravs are a modded Traxxas big bore.

Thanks! And sure, I can share what they are. But since you mentioned you just got the truck, are you looking to add weight (brass) for functional reasons, or do you just want the look of the disc brake & rotor? Samix is one manufacturer that makes decent quality brass & aluminum upgrades, Treal is another. I have a brake rotor set from each of them, Samix in the front, Treal in the back. I was buying for functional reasons, looking at the weights of the other parts to dial in an axle weight. I ended up with heavy weight portal covers in front and lighter weight in the back. If you’re buying brass for the first time, it gets pricey quickly. Do your research and consider your longer term build goals. There are complete kits available that offer savings over buying separately. www.rcsamix.com/index.php/forrccar/traxxas/trx-4/trx4-4413c2h-trx-4-brass-portal-knuckle-heavy-cover-scale-big-brake-rotor-caliper-combo-set.html trealhobby.com/products/treal-trx-4-brass-outer-portal-covers-42g2pcs-black-with-brake-motor-set

DluxFab Dravtechs, they are very nicely built Big Bores.

​@Jay appreciate it yeah I just picked up the trx4 k/5 blazer

What model number shocks are the ones you got I like the spring less shocks u running

These are the bodies. I built them with different ends though to get the OAL I wanted. dluxfab.com/Shocks-Suspension-c6232188

It’s a TRX4 High Trail, 79 Chevy K10

Thanks, shes all over me to do some upgrades. Should have some coming soon!

It def surprised me. Very tippy with the factory spring perches, if you remove those and loosen the caps on the seal pack the thing is a rockstar. $0 upgrades!

Thanks! Learning as I go!

Yes, I can do a video like that. Kind of a builder tour, right? This one, when I did it I was in a hurry to go out and run so it was just a quick overview. Until I make a more detailed one, I’ve got one other already posted where I talk about some of the changes, doesn’t go super deep but hits on my shock setup. That’s the challenging part to get past on the high trail. Thanks so much for watching! And the comments! May is a busy month in my house but I like that idea and if it’s important to someone else that puts that one at the top of my list!

Here’s that other vid talking shocks th-cam.com/video/iTg8Bg54Z_Q/w-d-xo.html

Thanks, it’s what it looks like! I was laughing when I was editing 😂

Thanks, trying to think of things that would be helpful to folks looking to modify their cars.

Nice explanation. Short and sweet

Thanks!

Thanks for catching that…. That rock is near the trailhead and the first one that I attempted to climb with these tires. I was shocked when it went up and so excited but I didn’t want to over react😂 They are nice tires, I hope they hold up.

Thanks, this hobby has given me an excuse to explore and I really enjoy making the videos. It forces me to learn faster. We’re blessed to have such a great landscape here in Ohio.