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Indeed, you can safely reuse a washer once by turning it around before re-installation. But if you can source them cheaply, there's little reason not to replace them.

@@TheMissingBolt ofcourse just wanted to point it out for those that forgot or cant get one in time or what ever

@@Jason.1999 Yep, fair point. Thanks!

@@TheMissingBolt i thank you for the great video !

@@Jason.1999 You’re very welcome! Glad you liked it!

Glad you like it!

Я не индиец😀

Thank you so much! It's comments like yours that keep me motivated to make more videos 🙂

Not sure what you mean. At 31:46 it's the bleeder screw, not the banjo bolt. The bolt appears at 29:30 and doesn't have a notch; the notch belongs to the brake hose and when installing the hose, the tip of the notch must go into the dedicated hole from the caliper. If you're referring to these 2, see from 29:17 onward on how the banjo bolt, brake hose and notch must be installed.

@@TheMissingBolt I don’t know how the time got there. I meant is there a specific way I need to start the thread of the new bolt into the caliper .

@@christophergalardo3457 No, apart from making sure the hose is sitting correctly on the caliper first, the bolt should be installed normally - start by hand first to avoid any risk of cross-threading and don't forget the 2 copper washers.

@@TheMissingBolt thank you. I appreciate it.

@@christophergalardo3457 You're very welcome!

Thank you very much! Indeed, the same procedure should apply to all 1st generation Sports (2005 - 2013), as well as all Discoveries 3 and 4.

You're very welcome, glad I could help! 🙂

Cu multa placere!😀

Siempre doy explicaciones detalladas en todos mis videos y hasta ahora solo he recibido comentarios positivos sobre ellos. Siempre puedes silenciar el audio si no quieres escucharlo.

It's averaging about 8.5L / 100 km, but keep in mind it's spending 50 % - 60 % of its time in Bucharest, where the traffic is really bad (among the worst in Europe). On longer road trips we're usually getting about 5L / 100 km or even less if there are no highways involved. It uses less petrol fuel than the Kia Sportage used diesel fuel at a similar power output and only slightly more weight (the Mazda is lighter by about 100 kg), which to us definitely confirmed the efficiency of the SkyActiv-X engine.

Toata ideea e tocmai faptul ca n-am pierdut (si n-am ales sa pierd) garantia. Folosind filtrul si uleiul original Mazda, este greu sa-si dea cineva seama ca s-a facut un schimb de ulei suplimentar intre 2 schimburi efectuate "oficial" la reprezentanta. Beneficiul este ca motorul masinii este de 2 ori mai protejat pe termen lung la un cost suplimentar mic (comparabil cu pretul unui schimb de ulei in reprezentanta, cel putin).

@@TheMissingBolt corect, ai si tu dreptate

Bitte schauen Sie sich die Erläuterungen ab 19:32 Uhr an. Wenn dieses Teil kaputt geht, werden mehr Vibrationen über die verbleibenden zwei Motorlager auf die Fahrzeugkarosserie übertragen. Dadurch verringert sich der Fahrkomfort und auch die Lebensdauer der anderen Motorlagerungen verringert sich, da diese zusätzlichen Längsschwingungen ausgesetzt sind.

I didn't have that kind of funnel when I filmed the video, though I did get one later on. It actually takes about 4 - 5 drains & fills with water to remove over 95 % of the old coolant. I know 11+ iterations were overkill, but I did it as an exercise. You probably have a petrol engine that needs only 6L of coolant, in which case you're right, a single fill of 3L 100 % concentrated coolant is fine. But the video is targeted specifically for the 2.0 Diesel engine, which takes 8+ L and a single coolant fill is not sufficient to reach the 50 - 50 concentration. The math part can be extrapolated to any vehicle with a large-enough coolant system.

It does a mix of 50 - 50 urban and extra-urban driving, with the urban part being in Bucharest where the traffic is very bad, so there strain on the oil is higher than normal. But keep in mind that oil color is not a direct indicator of wear - on diesels for example the oil gets black in less than 100 km after the oil change because of the turbos.

Yep, from what I've seen it's usually down to one of the rubber boots failing one way or the other. The actual electronics inside the coil pack itself can last a very long time. You can check on eBay, I found some replacement rubber boots at a reasonable price some time ago.

@@TheMissingBolt yes, some results came up on there and the other big one, but on further inspection they weren't the same. I think I found out why the previous coil pack was in so firmly! No grease on the boot ends must have caused that. Another thing learned 👍

If you're referring to the ATE Plastilube, I haven't used it myself. But according to the specifications, it is suitable for use on the caliper slide pins and the backside of brake pads (to avoid squeaking).

And the TRW are 100% syntethic? Dont dammage the rubber? Thank you friend.

​@@nunogoncalves24 Yes, it is safe to use with brake-related rubber and caliper slide pins, as per this spec sheet: www.partinfo.co.uk/files/XZS120GB.pdf​. I've been using it for the last 4 years on all my cars with no issues.

@@TheMissingBolt Thank you again my friend, keep the good work. Greetings.

@@nunogoncalves24 You're very welcome!

Je suis désolé, je ne parle pas français. Mais vous pouvez utiliser l'option CC de TH-cam avec la langue française (traduite automatiquement) comme sous-titres.

Thank you very much! 👍

Thank you kindly!

Salutare! Pentru (1), motivul e simplu - ar fi trebuit sa trec cu firul de alimentare prin peretele despartitor dintre compartimentul motor si habitaclu, ceea ce ar fi fost mult mai complicat si mai riscant ... e mult mai simplu sa tragi un fir de alimentare de la siguratele din habitaclu decat de la cele din afara lui; pentru (2) raspunsul este un foarte clar "nu", pentru ca este extrem de gresit sa alimentezi un circuit suplimentar fara o siguranta - daca modulul alimentat face un scurt intern, curentul va fi limitat doar de fir si va duce la arderea firului in interval de 1 - 2 secunde, moment in care te va costa foarte mult in timp si bani sa repari instalatia electrica a masinii (nu mai vorbim de riscul major de incendiu)

That’s precisely the area where jacks and jack-stands should be placed. In my case, it caused absolutely no damage whatsoever.

Exact! FitCamX mi se pare foarte scumpa pentru ceea ce ofera.

Multumesc! Da, exact pe acelasi principiu merg si eu.🙂

In principle you should be able to do it one wheel at a time, since even if you have 4WD / AWD, the clutch pack at the front of the rear differential should be open when the engine is off, hence if you turn a wheel while the other is on the ground, you won't end up turning the prop-shaft towards the transmission. But the best is to check yourself: simply lift one of the rear wheels and see if you can turn it with ease when the handbrake is off - if you can, then you can work on each wheel independently. Just make sure to support the car on jack-stands, choke the remaining 3 wheels and ensure the transmission is in Park or 1st gear. Good luck!

Yeah, actually replacing bushings and ball-joints instead of the entire control arm trades cost for time. It's much quicker to just replace the arms, but can be 3X more expensive or more.

I drained it off-camera through the driveshaft openings, as I was preparing the box for installation.

@@TheMissingBolt thanks man I almost bought a diff gasket thinking I will drain it that way. I'm also swapping gearboxs. You saved me a lot of unnecessary work

@@bongzm.4597 Happy to help! 🙂

Hi! Thank you for the feedback! I don't plan on deleting any of the videos, since the main reason I make them is to help other DIY-ers that need to do the same job. 🙂

If you have exactly the same engine (A14XER) then yes, the same procedure applies.

@@michelbonnet584 You’re very welcome, glad you liked the video!

I think you mean 5 quarts, rather than 5 gallons, right? But still, for 0W20 that's less than half what it is around here. And yes, the dealer constraints while the car is under warranty are much stricter in Europe (and Romania in particular).

im europa 5L of 0W20 costs 56€ ​@@TheMissingBolt

​@@Jason.1999 That's very close to what I paid for the 5L of genuine 0W20 Mazda oil (60€). But even 56€ is more than twice what they pay in the US.

@@TheMissingBolt crazy 😅

@@Yatesss11 You’re very welcome!

Yes, I got the "blue" G11 recommendation from my local Kia dealer as well.

@@TheMissingBolt It seems as G11 should not be used. My mechanic highly recommended that I should look for other coolant. Now I am searching for alternative. In the meanwhile I found out that Asian vehicles use coolant with phosphates and not with silicates. It seems as G11 has silicates. The G11 coolant I got does not say "silicate free". It seems as authorized car services do not care what happens with your car. If in several years you got a leak somewhere, or pump failure, you cannot prove that it is because of bad antifreeze. Plus they get extra work for repair job.

@@rimad6882 The HEPU coolant that I used in the video, as well as the green variant, are rated silicate-free as well as being G11. I’ve had no issues using it on either the Sportage or the Cee’d.

Any gear oil that is rated 75W90 and GL5 is suitable. It doesn't have to be Shell Spirax. Motul, Liqui Moly, Ravenol etc. all offer 75W90 / GL5 gear oil in their product line-ups. Just make sure you purchase from a reputable oil brand and from a reputable parts store (so the risk of counterfits is low).

@@TheMissingBolt Thank you! Today I was asking Kia dealer for pricing, they want around 400€ for this exact job.

@@alexdell84 Oh wow! And to think that the cost in parts (oil and washers) is less than 50€ and it's a 1/2-hour job to do...

Do you have any ideea where to order only the original washers? Or if I try to use aluminium washers from a standard washer kit would it fit ?

@@alexdell84 I got them from a Kia dealer. But there's nothing special about them other than being crush-washers. So any suitable alternatives from an automotive washer kit should work fine, though be careful that they must be "crush" washers and not just any standard washer (I think you're right that at the very least, they must be aluminum for the transfer case).

You're very welcome! This is one of the main reasons I make these videos - so that folks can maintain their cars without spending a fortune at the dealer 🙂

@@triksterr Glad you enjoyed it!

Hi! I usually wait between 45 minutes and 1 hour from the moment I turn the engine off to the moment I start the next coolant drain. If you're doing the procedure on a hot day, extend the waiting interval between 1 hour and 1.5 hours.

@TheMissingBolt Thank you for your response! Subscribed!

@@PaekSukis Thank you very much!

For this manual transmission no, there's no filter to replace.

Det kallas en "bromsvätsketestare". Sök på AliExpress eller Amazon så hittar du det direkt.

Tack för snabbt svaret😊

Varsågod! Jag är väldigt glad att höra att min video var användbar för dig!

Thank you! Indeed, a drain plug would have been very useful, no idea why they didn't design one in the first place.