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We can build channels and still produce good reviews. My complaint is that camera gear reviews get too technical at times, missing what the item is really about.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 I'd suggest YT is delivering you the content you view via its algorithm. I rarely see overly technical reviews that focus on specs.

I've been teaching photography on and off since the 1990s so I've seen my fair share of newbies with gear far beyond their capabilities. While this overbuying will never stop, an online review these days should be aimed at answering the question for the viewer, "Is this the right piece of kit for me?" I find that too many online reviews gloss over this question in their rush to get to the tech specs. I'll be producing a review video plus a tips & tricks video for the X-M5 in the next week or so, if we ever get a nice, pretty snowfall (it's all dreary brown, raining and I'm in Canada!). I need some nice vlog footage as my current X-M5 vlog stock is too blah for video review use.

Most reviews are well done in terms of technical accuracy and if the tech stuff is all you're looking for, they're fine. However, frequently I think these tech videos fail to answer the right questions.

Ya, it may have a few good points, but the bad far outweigh them.

I bought the zve10 for 1 hour 4K videos on a tripod. Nothing at its price compared in features and as a hobbyist I intended to focus on building a selection of e lenses. Two years later it is mostly used for stills shot in manual. Although frustrating in use, the image quality has gotten me back into photography. Although I agree with your comments about shills, this body is still extremely popular, and half the price of my iPhone 16 with far superior images.

Out of all of the major consumer camera manufacturers, Sony is the only one with gyroscopic data. However, with OIS+DIS, plus stabilization within our editing software, I'm not convinced that it's a necessity. I highly doubt that the average content creator has any idea that it is there and what it does. If I was a pro videographer, then ya, it would be a good thing.

That'll just fine as it's a 14 to 42mm lens covering the most commonly used focal lengths.

@photographybypetercharles9939 Thanks ! one cheap lens you'd recommend for both video and photo for the G7...could you recommend? Like the cheapest of the lot.

Actually the 14-42mm that it comes with should be more than enough to get you started.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Much appreciated for you helpful response Good Sir. Thank you again!

That's an idea. I'll have to see if I have enough for a video.

Actually the X-M5 specs out very well. It's an X-S20 minus IBIS and the bigger battery. It's a much better performing video camera than either the X-T20 or 30. It's a lot of camera in a small body. The X-T10 etc. has always been the little brother to the X-T1, upwards through the models. No surprise there. The X-T50 is getting expensive though, however when the X-T6 arrives, I'm sure that the price gap will grow. BTW, the issue of old lenses and the 40mp sensor is overblown. It's only a few lenses like the 18mm f2 whose resolving power is exceeded by the 40mp sensor. It doesn't mean that the images will suffer vs. an 18mm on an older camera. It's simply that the resolving power of the older lenses are less than the resolving power of the 40mp sensor, so you don't get the full benefit from it.

I've gone through the specs of the Mark II before I shot the video and it does resolve some of the issues, but the overall functionality of the camera really hasn't changed. Bottom line, if we want to control the camera, the X-M5 is still a better choice.

It has the same guts as the X-S20.

That was my one gripe with the previous Fuji models. The 4K DCI excited me but it turns out it's just crapped on the top and bottom and the pixels are more concentrated. Which I guess is nice as it's higher resolution but put on at least a couple of the Panasonic models, due to the censorship and the way they configured their signals, you actually got extra footage on the sides of the frame in DCI mode. And the open gate on this XM 5 and I hope future models takes care of that! Edit: wait wait did the excess 20 have open gate 6k!?

@@thedexterbros Yes, the X-S20 does 6.2K open gate 3:2 recording. The X-M5 has all of the X-S20 video specs plus 9:16 phone format recording.

@ yes it did

The last DSLR I owned was 12 years ago so I'm not the best person to ask. If I were to buy one today for landscape and portrait, I'd be more concerned about the sensor resolution and less concerned about autofocus and stabilization.

@photographybypetercharles9939 Thanks for your response young man.

Get the Fuji!

@@MariusMocan-mn4do ok. Thank you....

Unfortunately a 1K USD budget and good low light performance don't usually go hand-in-hand. A fast zoom good for low light will be north of $1K just for the lens. Slow kit lenses which come with inexpensive cameras, tend to push up the ISO which increases noise levels in our low light photos. The best low light setup at that price point that I can think of offhand, would be the Fujifilm X-M5 coupled with the Fujifilm XC 35mm f2. lens together for $998.00. It's a prime lens, not a zoom, so there's that limitation, but the f2 max aperture will perform better in low light.

I should add that a 35mm focal length will be very poor as a selfie lens. We need something along the lines of a 14-16mm lens. Finding a fast, cheap, AF lens at these wide focal lengths is going to be difficult. In the end you may have to settle for the a slow kit lens and live with the image noise.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 xm-5 is not available here in Delhi (India), I saw one Fujifilm xt-100 online. Is this good enough to begin with? If yes then pls advise me the lenses I should also buy. Really appreciate your replies.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 oh I just saw that it’s a 2018 model, very old. We don’t have much options of Fujifilm cameras under 1k here. I’ll try to push my budget, pls advise me a decent camera setup and lenses.

@@yashnexie5324 The X100 cameras are great for street photography, but not vlogging. I'd suggest try finding a used X-S10 and make sure the firmware is up to date. The 15-45mm PZ lens is very cheap so you should be able to get both for under $1K. The PZ lens is slow and not the best indoors, but it"ll get you started.

The memory recall (MR) custom modes being saved to the SD card is really a deal breaker, especially when there isn't an easy "delete all" function to get rid of obsolete images. I spent a couple of hours working through that cumbersome menu to lock in video and photo MR functions, only to lose them on a card reformat. Not a happy camper is an understatement. What's worse, we're very dependent on the MR custom modes as any kind of manual control with that camera is such a pain. Flipping to a pre-saved MR mode saves a lot of frustration - then we lose them on a reformat or card swap. The vast majority of camera manufacturers save their custom modes to internal flash memory, which is retained even after removing the battery. We have to do a complete system reset to wipe them out. Sony cut too many corners with the ZV-E10. It would be interesting to see a comparison between a ZV-E10 mark I and mark II, to see how many issues have been addressed or left unaddressed. The body seems physically the same, so the button issue will remain.

@ yes i would like to know also how is ZVE10 mark II? Are there any improvement on that?

@@Mraz75 Apart from relocating the On-Off switch, the Mark I and II appear to be physically identical with all of the faults I've listed: no mode dial, no joystick, only one command dial, etc. The sensor, processor and video suite has been upgraded to where the Mark I should've been before its release. It's still lagging behind the X-M5 video specs. The X-M5 can handle 6.2K open gate at a much higher bit rate. You want video quality? X-M5 is it. For photography, it still sucks. The basic flaws that make it a poor stills camera still remain.

@ thank you so much for the info. That is the reason why XM5 has a long queue to buy it in my country. People love its video spec plus it requires UHS 1 type memory card but still can record 6.2K.

Nope. It seems like they have set it up for a press on the joystick to punch in and out of focus check. That needs to be fixed and it should be an easy one via firmware upgrade. We just need to bug Fujifilm to make it so.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Please point the way...

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Well, just point the way!

@@franciscoscaramanga2342 Just use the "Contact Us" on their website to tell them what we want.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Done. However, I just realised that focus peeking does not activate on thirdparty lenses without electronic connectors. It does on my X-T5 and X-H2s. Have you tested this?

If I get a chance, I will.

Spoiler alert, it doesn’t compare. It’s clear the Fuji has better shadows and colors

You mean zone focusing. Yes you can and quite well, but that's not a perfect solution.

Yes, I realized afterward that it was the equivalent focal length, but there are still other EXIF errors relating to aperture.

The X-H2 is a substantially bigger and heavier camera. It has a CFexpress Type B card along with a UHS II SDXC card slot. Dual cards can be a bigger deal for pro shoots and the CFexpress is a much faster card allowing for more sustained burst shooting. The XS-20 is probably a marginally better video camera with a faster readout sensor and open gate capability. Bottom line for me: when I'm out for some serious stills photography I take the X-H2. If I'm shooting video or just some record stills photography, then the X-S20 goes with me.

@ thanks a lot for your reply. I use to shoot with a film Leica for my personal pic trips . I need a digital camera for Christmas to make pictures in the family as my dad is getting older …. Just need good coloured stills . Not sure if the 40 mpxls has better dynamic range and eventually more beautiful and 3D texture . If so I would go for the 600 € extra SH2 but, just in that case . Good night 📷 and thanks again

@@jastrel The 40mp sensor has smaller pixels, so though I've not tested this, my guess would be that the 26mp X-S20 would have marginally better DR and less noise at the cost of less resolution.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 it makes sense what you say . I’ll go for the xs20, I can not be wrong anyway with any of them. Cheers

Yes it does, but the more we stop down, the less the difference between the lenses.

Enthusiast photographer, btw.

I liked the Fujifilm lenses,, no complaints at all, but I prefer using the Voigtländers with my X-pro3. It's the combination of the camera and lenses that makes the difference.

Sorry, I don't have a Vero account.

No, I just go there on occasion.

Make sure that you use the Fujifilm M-Mount adapter as I ran into flange distance problems with the cheap ones. I was using manual lenses of different brands in my studio, having bought cheap adapters for them. It wasn't a problem for me as these cameras were fixed, so it didn't matter if the flange distance was wrong. I found that some cheap adapters were OK and some were off. It's a toss-up. Interestingly the Fotodiox were the worst despite being fairly expensive. My camera shop allowed me to try every one they had in stock and all were off. The nice thing about the Fujifilm M-Mount adapter is that it has a button that when pressed opens up the menu for recording the lens focal length.

That may be a good solution for the TTArtisans flange distance problem, but it would be a bad idea for these Noktons as it would put the distance scale off. As I said in the video, this is not a flange distance problem, but rather a deliberate design choice, probably for temperature reasons. It would be especially a bad idea for a photographer like me who spends very little time with his lens at infinity.

Very true, for me it is much more confortable to adjust hard stop at infinity, and use focus peaking for shorter distances if needed (on Fuji X-Pro1)

@@XF74 I want my distance scale to be accurate so that I can use zone focusing easily, or actually measure the distance when shooting studio video.I spend so little time with my lens racked over to infinity that it makes little sense to fix a minor issue by creating a major problem. Besides, it would void the warranty.

Funny how all of the articles on lens diffraction agrees with me. How about you produce a video to show why we're all wrong.

They don't go past infinity, rather there are small lines at the ♾ symbol that indicates where the stop actually is. It looks like they go past ♾, but they don't.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Thank you for your response! I actually got the lens some time ago, and if I point to the infinity symbol, everything is in focus, but if I go past it, to the focus stop, thing get out of focus. I would probably recommend that you do some tests regarding this, maybe it's something you haven't noticed before.

On checking again, you're right. I never simply rack a lens out to the infinity stop to shoot, so I never noticed this. I checked my three Nokton lenses and they're all the same, so it's a design choice, not a sample variation issue. The Noktons apparently have a deliberate 'past infinity' distance scale, while the Ultron 27mm f2 and the Color-Skopar 18mm f2.8 focus to infinity at the infinity stop. When we look at the ∞ mark on my Noktons, there's a small line at ∞, while my other two lenses do not have one. I wondered why the line was there and now it is obvious. It's to indicate that infinity is somewhere on that line. The other two lenses stop at the midpoint of the ∞ symbol. I've had MF telephoto and zoom lenses in the past with the same line at ∞ and never wondered why it was there. The distance scale is accurate however, indicating that this is not a flange distance problem. My TTartisans 25mm f2 focuses past infinity, but that lens is off all across the distance scale, indicating a flange distance problem. In years past I have run across 'past infinity' discussions with some other German designed lenses. On checking out this issue today, I ran across comments that some Zeiss and Leica lenses do the same. The consensus was that this feature is for precise focusing when wide open, allowing for temperature variations. BTW, all auto focus lenses go past infinity to allow for focus motor movement. Will this make a difference to my photography? Nope.

@@photographybypetercharles9939 Wonderful analysis, glad you thought the same I did! It's a matter of keeping that in mind and understanding that it's just something I have to deal with when focusing. It still slightly annoys me, but, thanks to the current focus aid tools, I can clearly see when I am going past the symbol. Thank you once again.

The width of the X-S10 is 126mm while the X-S20 is 127.7mm so the odds the cage will fit is not high. Fujifilm had to make it a bit bigger to hold the bigger battery.

When you do, keep in mind that the X-Pro3 links to the contacts and chip in the lens, while the X-Pro2 does not. The X-Pro2 will not receive any information from the lens.

I look at the 27mm for its potential, thanks to its perspective and small size. It's probably a tad sharper than the 23mm, but they're all good lenses.