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@@richardschaffling9882 You know it.........ate a 4 pounder Lol

@@richardschaffling9882 It was off the chart and quit a shocker. The only thing better, would have been 3 or 4 barns full of vintage bikes!!!!!

@ i decided to go back to the start of your videos and see how you started and just kept watching them all

@@richardschaffling9882 That's a 1960 FLH. It's seen many changes over it's lifetime. I have pictures of it as a chopper with a 21" wheel on it. Now, we are putting it back as an FLH. It currently has a 2 over front end on it.

@@MoeLarrycurly1 That's right.....I wonder what they called them? I've been looking but haven't had any luck yet.. Lol

@@MoeLarrycurly1 It should be a fun, good looking rat bike. Thanks

That's exactly where mine is bent. I used a heat gun last night and let it set on both sides of the bar with the bike strapped down to the table. I grabbed the bar with my hands, squatted down, and rested my hands on my head and pressured up with my legs. Had to do it a few times, but straightened it out without pulling wires and timing cable or snapping the clamp, or rubber mount. I guess I got lucky!!!

@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls Well that gives me hope so I don't have to tear the bar off or half a bar. On one hand I've kind of gotten used to it I think somebody laid the bike down on the right side before I got it the 1970. Cuz there are scrapes on the lid on the saddlebags and I had replaced the brake lever. Which I did but I might give that a try rather than using my butane for my map torch

@@MoeLarrycurly1 It worked for me.......Good Luck on you!!

You and me both Brother.

Thank you, brother. Ride-um safe.

Looks factory 👌

@richardschaffling9882 My buddy Jones is handicapped too. I personally like to set him into a booth with his left side against the wall so he can't elbow me in the face while he's trying to feed himself..........As far as the threads........good catch......yeah they are a little gone, but the bolt that holds the battery cap down has extended threads to hold a pretty chrome cover so you can't get to your battery or oil cap. LOL That extension actually catches the first half of the threads and good threads below the devastation, so I think I'm good. Thanks for watching.

@ every time when the wife and I went out to eat when we were young we made sure how we sat at a booth or table because she kept elbowing me

@richardschaffling9882 Will do. Thanks for the tip!!

@richardschaffling9882 Love TN.....That's were my family is from. And that's pretty cold for TN.

@ I am originally from Pa and I love Tn been here for 21 years and thank God I survived a tornado and now the hurricane

@@lmj5994 I enjoyed sharing. Thanks for the comment 👍

@@richardschaffling9882 Amen, that makes logical sense to me!!!!! Thanks for the comment.

There are most definitely multiple ways to get the job done. Always appreciate your comments. Thanks.

@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls 👋🏼👋🏼

@@adamc4655 Thank you, I enjoy it.

@adamc4655 Thanks for the comment. I've been having fun on it.

Yes, much does depend on timing. Thanks for all the positive advice, and Happy Thanksgiving to you too.

I actually just caught (and read manual) your comment about testing with cover on and spring retainer in place. Good to know!! I noticed the front cylinder contact points are angled and not opening evenly. I think I read that you can bend the contact to get it to open evenly against the stationary contact. Have you had to do this?

@ yes it’s important that the point contacts hit hit squarely. It is not uncommon to have to bend the points arm with needle nose pliers. Condensers are important and I’ve been hearing a lot of bad things about poor quality condensers lately. I guess it’s just hit or miss with quality these days.

@Mr39knuck Thank you, you've been gracious with your knowledge.

@@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls always happy to assist. I just looked at my NOS timer with the cap and the and original wires. The points hit perfectly square and true, they are beautifully made with a Delco Remy inscribed on the arm, and Delco made in USA inscribed on the bottom plate of the points. I long for the days when made in USA was the standard of quality and the parts were readably attainable. What a shame we lost our manufacturing, sold out for corporate profits. I used to buy my parts from Joe Barber at the 74 Shop. His son kind of keeps the business running now, but Joe was an incredible wealth of knowledge about Panheads. Anything I needed to know he was there with an answer and I’m happy to pass along any knowledge I can..

Same to you.....enjoy your weekend.

@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls thank you...👋🏼👋🏼

Back at you. Enjoy your weekend.

@richardschaffling9882 Thank you.

@richardschaffling9882 Thanks for your comment. Every now and then, a blinde squirrel will find a nut.........

Yeah, it's definitely new to me. We will eventually find the right way of doing it. Just might take me a few trys. Lol

@@MoeLarrycurly1 yes the dual point timer on a Harley is quite similar to the 60s British bike point plate. The main difference is the automatic advance onthe Brit bike.

@Mr39knuck it has been a long time since I had my triumph. I just remember having two sets of points.

Thanks.....I just caught your last video about your cylinder. Wish I could help identify it.

@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls tx.. ✌️.. I think I figured it out for him ..

I really don’t want to be one of those guys 😢 but it’s not an explosion🎉. It’s a burn. 🔥. The top dead center tool is your friend. I believe it’s 7/16 before top dead center that you want the points to open. I’m on memory here, but I have done this about 100 times. I believe you set the first set of points on the front cylinder and then you have to twist the base and lock it down (with the strange side clamp on the timer) which changes the timing and then you have to do it again until you feel good about it. then you go to the rear cylinder 7/16 before TDC and then that you have to adjust the gap width so it opens right there at full advance. You monkey around with that by using your advance and retard so when you hit full advanced, the point just opens right there.. I happen to have a new Old stock dual point timer sitting on my bureau in my bedroom, along side a magneto. I spin them both from time to time. Don’t ask questions😅

​@Mr39knuck Sounds like you earned the rights to be that guy.......but you have to admit that explosion sounds pretty cool.......Hey, I really appreciate your help. Your 100 times doing this, is 100 times more than I've done it, so I'm all ears. Thanks for the help and I won't ask any questions about...........

@@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls probably shouldn’t say it, but when my kids were bad, I would tell them to hold the business end of the magneto wires while I spun it 😵‍💫

@secretlee7957 A few hours in a safe place, and you're good to go. It's a blast to drive.....and I mean drive. You become a part of the experience. Thanks for the comment. Ride safe.

Great thought, I like that!! As far as the wedge.....I would think that should reduce restriction for better flow. I've never seen an inlet manifold like that, but it makes sense to me. Thanks for taking the time to comment!!

@@richardschaffling9882 Thanks, soooo much to learn. Ride safe.

@MoeLarrycurly1 Nice....The Teflon is a great idea. Thanks for your input. It's always appreciated.

@@kurtfoulke5130 Great observation.

​@SilverNutsGarage-di5ls It's pretty inconspicuous but, the red wire going to the solenoid caught my eye. I like it 👌

@kurtfoulke5130 Good call. I have actually never used the electric start. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

@richardschaffling9882 Videos I've watched have sure helped me. Thanks for the comment.

And that's a great sound!!!

I hear you brother.....

Thank you, it's appreciated!!

@@richardschaffling9882 There you go.....that would work. And a little squeeze will do ya.....Thanks for 👀

You are 100% correct!!! On big twins from about 1973 on, they used 1/4-20 and prior to that, they used 1/4-24. I was using a 5/16 socket and had that on my brain. Great catch!!!! Thanks for the comment!!