วีดีโอ

I have 8.1 mp

It's a stretch to criticize people who photoshop their images while using AI clips and not mention this anywhere. I´m not hating on your content. I think it´s pretty important to school people about manipulated images. Ant thank you for that. But then please also stick to these standrads.

Back in the Brownie’s early days people didn’t even call them cameras. They called them “Kodaks”.

YouTubing, portraits in sun or under studio lights, and “street photography” are not challenging enough to reveal the fairly vast differences. In low light, and high contrast lighting and other very mixed lighting, the difference in noise, dynamic range and detail captured is, in actual practice, pretty huge. Sure I have a couple of APSC cameras and they do a very nice job in generally unchallenging situations, and they’re smaller lighter and cheaper, but when it comes to my main body of work, FF beats it pretty handily, and I use only my FF cameras for their superior performance. Just on the topic of dynamic range alone, on today’s cameras, the typical difference between crop and FF is around 5 stops. That’s nothing to sneeze at.

Sir plz play immegs as possible as real photos not this animation imeges this is a very disconnected to your core essence 🙏

I have FF and M43, I used to have APS-c, I also have a P950 that has really small sensor. I find the real problem is distance. Full frame is great for general use but for wildlife you have to get close to the subject. Hence I have m43 for longer distances. I find FF great low light whilst the M43 is grainy unless iso is down to 100ish. But the weight of a ff 150-600 lens is a barrier and only sharp for 80-100yds, M43 will double that distance. I have a ff 100-400 lens with t/c which does not match the 600mm lens but I can shoot hand held. And with my P950 I can get up to 2km. I do very little post adjustment. I pay a fortune for a camera and lens and expect the kit do to a proper job!

What amazes me is that I could buy a complete a Zeiss Milvus lens system from 21mm to 135mm (21mm f/2.8*, 25mm f/1.4*, 35mm f/2**. 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.4, 100mm f/2.8 Makro-Planar, 135mm f/2 all ZF.2 (more expensive due to the aperture ring, but more practical for mounting on mirrorless camera)) for less than £5.5k second hand. Whilst not cheap, particularly for a set of manual focus lenses. The quality of the lenses is on another level compared to most lens manufacturers in terms of build and in some cases optical ability. Also, to buy new, you are looking at spending around £11,300 (A second hand Leica equivalent'ish would be £13k+). * The reason to go for the 21mm f/2.8 and 25mm f/1.4 is weight and use. The 21mm f/2.8 is much lighter and more portable, for landscapes, whilst I love 25mm for portraits. ** The Zeiss Milvus 35mm f/1.4 is optically better, but it also is huge, and weighs in at 1131g compared to the 649g for the Zeiss Milvus 35mm f/2, which is better for street photography.

When one buys certain brand name lens and bodies for a certain "color science", shooting raw might not seem logical. Jpg shooting is better imo for casual photography. Professional jobs i will usually use raw / dng - one never knows when paying customer needs big rework or just in case we got exposure wrong

Thanks.

long story short: people are "willing" to pay these prices, sooooo why sell/market them cheaper?! "greed is eternal"

I think the guides National Geographic Photographers have to use works

You talk too much in order to explain something simple.

Megapixels Lives Matters!

Most of your photos you take on your phones ending up as 12MP images anyway, even if you have 50MP cameras or whatnot. Why? Pixel binning. Basically, making a true 50MP image on your phone will kill your storage, it's simply too much data to store. So when taking a picture, your phone forces 4 pixels act as 1 pixel. It has benefits, sure, like more surface area to capture light and providing your ISP in your phone's processor options to choose which pixel is the most "good" for the picture it's trying to conjure up. But ultimately, it's not a 50MP pixel. But what about when you zoom in you ask? Ah, good question. It's still the same shit. Your phone simply just digitally crop things out until you reach high enough zoom level for it to just change camera module altogether. Your phone don't change the ratio of pixel binning to make the image more crisper, it just digitally crops it, end of story.

tldr; all else being equal, more pixels are better. However, all else is seldom equal. You don't see James Cameron shooting Avatar 3 on a iPhone 16, despite all those pixels in the iPhone camera.

Demosaicking is not the 'main process that a raw file goes through. It's somewhat incidental. Foveon sensor camras don't need demosaicking, yet they still produce raw files and still require processing to produce an output file. You completely missed the key process, which is the conversion from the wavelength centred 'colour space' of the camera to the human perception based colour space of the output file. This process involves things like setting black and white points (which are perception, not physically based) and discarding any data beyond those points. That data cannever be recovered, which is why raw based workflows provide more flexibility.

There is the INCIDENT METER (such as that in a light meter that measures light which will fall on a subject, not light reflecting from the subject) and a REFLECTIVE METER (which only can measure light reflecting from a subject). Your camera has a Reflective Meter which is why professionals in studio and on sets still use Light Meters to accurately measure the light falling on the subject to plan the scene. Photographers elsewhere, not having a Light Meter (expensive stuff) use a Gray Card (18% 'Middle Gray', preferably neutral gray to correct for Colour Cast as well. Can use white card for latter.) to set the Metering and then the Custom White Balance. This works when you can have the card placed in front of the subject, like in a party/dinner etc. What about if you can't place the card in the scene, like a landscape shot? Then metering can be done with Evaluative Metering setting in the camera (explained in video) or if there are a lot of shadows and highlights by using spot metering to randomly select the spot you think best represents the mood you want to capture. (explained in video above).

This video really easy to understand,thank you for your help now i fully understand the metering thing

Lightweight Mirrorless & lens combo, but robust tripod !!

a little note : surely the price of camera lens is expensive and sometime unaproachable. But if I compare it with the price of a normal pair of lens of eyeglass it seems really cheaper.. . Isn't so ?🤓

Wow, talk about going over the top! This guy should be arrested for over-acting. I can't even watch what looked like a very interesting video. SMFH.

I was actually expecting a tour of a lens manufacturing facility. Not a story with a power point presentation.

You may want to adjust your shutter speed so that your hands do not produce a strobing effect every time you wave at the camera.

Hajj - both making Israel look bad to a certain perspective.

Doesn't master really? Uhm when see video sd hd fhd 2k 4k 8k. You will see what is master.

I'm not gonna lie, I ALWAYS use evaluative metering on aperture priority mode (unless it's getting overblown or underexposed like crazy).

Do megapixels matter? You bet they do! Especially when zooming in and cropping an image already captured. The further you enlarge, you don't want the dreaded pixelization to show up, indicating not enough detail/data. You want the details to be there. The only way to get it is to boost the number of pixels. The smaller (higher DPI) the better as you can get a lot more pixels. It's the difference between watching a 480p/720p TV picture vs. 4K or 8K.

nvidia makes the best lenses