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Heh, thanks Austin! It actually belonged to the friend where I was staying in a room, but yeah, that back patio did give me lots of room for all this crap (and my guitar/amp/effects, etc...) Well, honestly, what I would suggest especially since the tank is very good and I do like the structure of their 'Record Cleaning' spindle and such, I would say just buy the iSonic Record Cleaning system with their motor and spindle, get the 3 volt adapter or whatever will slow the rotation speed down. Only do up to 6 records at a time using more of their spacers in between, and I'm pretty sure you'd be just fine because you can still employ all the other information about the chemistry in the tank, the temperature, duration, and such... Like I mentioned in my last comment, I haven't checked in quite a while, but last time a few years ago I think their whole system and tank was still under $700.

Oh, just to add too... I appreciate you subscribing, but quite honestly I probably won't be adding much. I spend more time adding pictures and comments to my SOUNDROOM SYSTEM & COLLECTIONS which you will see linked here or somewhere on one of these videos. Also, I am way more proud of my site which is also linked somewhere here or nearby (lathe-of-heaven.com) I spend time over many years putting it together with fun stuff, so feel free to check out my SOUNDROOM and my site if you are totally bored and have absolutely NOTHING else better to do... 😊 Thanks again Austin, I hope this may give you some helpful ideas!

@@latheofheaven Big thanks Jaime! I really appreciate your help and tips. If I get one I'll defintely harass you some more. Cheers.

@@austinhunt4260 Sure thing Bro, I hope it works out for you. Whatever I can add to help just let me know. I'm certainly NOT Dave Denyer, but I'll do my best! 😁

Hey, thanks for making it to part 2, I'm always surprised that many only watch part one... 😊 Well, NO ONE is as obsessed as Dave Denyer Bro, NO ONE! That guy IS a walking Rabbit Hole! But, he is great at sharing a lot of excellent and helpful stuff with us for sure. I go into the chemistry I use in the tank in the video. For the rinse after the US tank, I just use distilled water. When I have to use a further vacuum/rinse, then my final rinse is Laboratory Regrade Purified Water #2. Honestly, once you have it set up, doing 6 records at a time it really goes fast, it really didn't take me that terribly long to go through the first 1500 records or so. Certainly no ONE HOUR A RECORD like it does Dave! 😨

@@latheofheaven We have a little Dave Denyer in us. His obsessiveness and molecular attention to detail is by my favorite part about his channel.

@@austinhunt4260 Heh, that's funny... I had just replied to your other post on Part 3.

Thanks for checking this out Austin! The actual spindle and concept of the iSonic motor/spindle are actually quite good. BUT... yes, I personally would see if there is a separate AC plug just for the spindle (which there should be since you can buy the tank separately) and simply just get a generic 3 volt AC adapter like I did replacing the 12 volt that came with my spindle/motor, which I THINK I mention here in part 1, or maybe part 2, it's been a while... But the design looks perfectly fine. I just wouldn't use their suggestion of 10 records at a time due to there not being enough space in between for proper cavitation. I think all you would have to do is just put more of their spacers in between and only do 6 records (or less) at a time. Otherwise, if you didn't feel like messing with a separate motor and creating a spindle, sure, their device would be fine with these modifications. It's been quite a while since I have checked, but I'm guessing the price still would be well under $700 - $800 for the whole setup, maybe even less.

@@latheofheaven Jaime, I spoke with Jerry at iSonic and it seems they're phasing out the model you demoed (P4875II) and replacing it with the CS6.2-PRO, which looks smaller (and a little less rugged and cool). But they're suppsoed to be slightly more powerful and functional. If you get a chance to look at the CS6.2-PRO, I'd be very interested in your impressions. It costs $1,218, plus $160 shipping to me Switzerland. If it's that awesome, it's still a quarter of what the Degritter costs. I still don't get the whole kHz shabang. Yours cavitates at 35 kHz; Degritter and KLaudio cavitate at 120-135 kHz. Intuition suggests more kHz is more effective (and expensive), but that train of logic often fails. I just want to try to understand it.

@@austinhunt4260 Yeah, I had a feeling that by now they would have changed the model. I believe I also spoke to Jerry before I bought mine. He does know his ultrasonic product, but he honestly doesn't know much about record cleaning. I tried to explain to him about jamming 10 records in at a time, how there would not be enough room for proper cavitation, and I also mentioned about the too rapid rotation speed, and he just dismissed it and said 'There were no complaints'... 😊 But, unless they've radically changed the tank, the 3 oversized transducers and the 3 heating elements seem to work really well. I'll take a look at this model if I can find it to see how similar it is. I'm glad you are happy with the price and all (I'm assuming that includes the spindle and motor too)

@@austinhunt4260 Okay, this is my 2nd reply to this post. I had a chance to watch their video of this new machine. It didn't look too bad. I THINK what they did was replace the 3 oversized transducers in mine with 2 SUPERSIZED ones! They do indeed look huge! If so, then I'm thinking the cavitation should be even better. Ah, I see they also include a pump to remove the water, that is nice. The only thing I would suggest, is if they provide a 24 volt adapter and it runs the rotation speed, then definitely see if you can get a generic 12, 6, or probably better yet a 3 volt AC adapter to slow that ridiculous 10 RPM down. Also, whether you want to mess with their provided cleaning solution, I honestly don't know about that. And, of course I would STRONGLY suggest not doing more then 6 evenly spaced records at a time. You can adjust the temperature, which is good. I THINK they replaced my unit with an interim one where there was no heat adjustment. And yes, it tops out at 40 degrees Celsius, so you will definitely want to shoot for about 30 and NO more than 35. Get a temperature/TDS reader for sure so you can keep track exactly what the temperature is. And yes, it does indeed probably take 20 minutes or so to heat to the correct level. Not bad really, especially with those huge transducers, as long as everything is built well and they stand behind their stuff. Actually looks pretty good and would I think be a much more affordable nice compromise than spending 3 times as much and you don't have to fabricate anything, it is all ready to go. I am not familiar with how the 'Spin Dry' part works, so you will hafta experiment with that. Personally, instead of draining out the solution and putting in distilled water to rinse EVERY time, I would just simply keep track of the TDS to see how clean the water is. I use mine several times (of course I run the filtration back into the tank, so that is different) and I use the solution until the TDS gets to about 12-15 and then I change it. But, with the filtration it really lasts quite a while. And, IDK... depending on whether you want to keep switching back and forth, I would honestly suggest the 'Dishpan' method that I use for the distilled rinse. That way you don't have to keep messing with the tank to rinse. A dishpan doesn't cost much and you'd just hafta figure out how to mount the spindle over the dishpan to turn the records in the distilled water. If you get this do let me know how you like it!

@@latheofheaven I misstated the difference between yours and the newer CS models. This is from Jerry at iSonic: "CS6.2 or 6.1 uses 48K frequency. Higher frequency doesn't mean higher power. Rather it's the opposite traditionally. 120-135K would mean very low cleaning power. Most of our commercial models use 35 to 40K and that's a good range. Our CS lines use 48K as a result of a breakthrough after years of R&D. It has higher frequency but also higher power than the 35K transducers we use for the medium to large sizes of the machines. Another benefit with higher frequencies is that you hear less noise as it's beyond human hearing. "I wouldn't say CS6.2-PRO is more durable than P4875II. P4875II is very reliable with a long history of good track record. The CS line is still relatively new. P4875II also has a very similar power intensity as CS6.2-PRO so they are equally powerful. The benefits with CS6.2-PRO include that it's more compact, quieter, and it uses a simple spindle adapter set to clean 45s if you have those. P4875II needs a separate motorized fixture set to clean 45s as it's one of our standard industrial models that we adapted for vinyl record cleaning. The CS line was designed with vinyl record cleaning in mind."

Wow, very nice! Sounds like you did an excellent, WAY more polished job mate 😁 It honestly sounds very nice indeed! Appreciate the comment, thanks! FWIW, part 3 deals more with the distilled rinse tank, and part 4 deals with the filtration system.

Wow... If I've told you once, I've told you twice Davy, *DON'T DROP ACID AND TYPE!*

@@latheofheaven Its one big trip, man. In my new video I will have a Ewe in a spaceship! Really!

Heh... I'm surprised you checked it out 😊 Just goofing around. But, hey I appreciate you taking a look mate! Nothing quite as exciting as *HUGE HEMORRHOIDS* , but hey I do the best I can... 😁

​@@latheofheaven It's based on the movie "attack of the Hemorrhoids"😂

@@davystrangename Lovely... 🙄

Heyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy... Seriously, I was simply just so blown away by the sound quality when the album got to this part, I had to come here and post it. Trust me, as you can easily tell, I don't post that many things (other than my 4 part DIY ultrasonic RCM videos which I am kind of proud of, and I THINK has helped a lot of people... 😊)

Hey Ron! That was super nice of you to take the time to check it out 😊 Just something very simple, but hopefully helpful. See you on your site soon!

Thank you kindly my friend, it honestly IS a great and quite revelatory discussion! Heh... I keep forgetting to put the links to my *SOUNDROOM SYSTEM & COLLECTIONS* and others under these posts! I'll PIN them above 😊😊 photos.app.goo.gl/9ja3UKob7tppW4Y38

Heh, that was nice of you to look, thanks! But, unfortunately you chose one of my more obscure videos that did NOT have any of my links to my system 😕 Most my others do, mainly the series of videos about my DIY ultrasonic RCM. But, thank for the try anyway though... Also, I've made HUGE updates to my system since then which you can see on my completely system link. I guess I can post it here below, I hadn't thought about that. If you get this reply and actually have a chance to look at my complete system in the link below, please do let me know, thanks! SOUNDROOM SYSTEM & COLLECTIONS: photos.app.goo.gl/9ja3UKob7tppW4Y38

Hmmm... If that is indeed true, that would be a real shame! Yes, 40 degrees is pushing it, I always try to keep it around 35ish. From what I saw their last one merely set the heat at 35 and you could not change it. I would double check this if I were you because that doesn't quite seem to jibe with what I saw from their latest not too long ago. As a matter of fact, if you check the comments below, a fellow just got one not too long ago and it was the one with the fixed temperature at 35. In the past, they have sold a complete 'Record Cleaning' setup, with the same tank but with a motorized turn spindle to hold the records. I can't see them dumping that unless for some reason it turned out not to be profitable for them. In the research I had done before setting mine up, I would say as long as it is a quality tank with similar dimensions and a heater (which most do have) and a decent warranty, and most definitely *NOT* one of the millions of generic steel ones you see on Amazon from China, you should still be able to set up something similar. In an updated link either here on on one of the other parts, I just posted a new link to a less expensive version of the exact same motor/spindle that I use on mine that you can get from Amazon. Oh, it just occurred to me too that even if their heater is set to 40 degrees, IF you can simply turn it on and off, then you are golden, because by using a simple inexpensive Thermometer/Total Dissolved Solids Meter it would be super easy simply to heat it up to what you want and then turn it off before putting the records in, case solved! 😁

Hey, thank you kindly for the comment! Yes, I did put a link under Part 3 for the pump (and it is a VERY good one!) Here is the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P19L8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As far as the filters, I explain which 2 filters I use (1 Micron & .35 Micron) You can use any standard sized canister and filters like I show in the video. You can get those on Amazon too. Just one thing... I believe there are 2 basic kinds of filters, one is more precise than the other. I forget the terms, but get the more precise ones ('Absolute' filters maybe?)

@@latheofheaven Got my machine today! One additional question: Where can I get the two filters and their containers? I presume form Amazon, but if you can give me guidance it shall be appreciated.

@@joseauger1353 Hey, that's great man, I hope that it works out well for you 👍 Okidoke, I found the filter housings that I ordered on Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JMRJ6Y/ Here is the link to the .35 filter so you can see what it looks like, although it is no longer available (mainly it just has to be the standard size to fit in the housing above) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HDADIA And, these are the 1 micron filters which are still available there: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZN2QFK/ I hope that helps! Feel free to ask if there is any other way I can help.

Hi, thanks for your comment. Sorry my first video here is pretty rough 😊 I was just anxious to show and help others with how awesomely this DIY ultrasonic tank really cleaned records and the reasons why. I scanned through it quickly to see if there was an angle showing the water level, but I don't think I showed that clearly in this video. I think I go into much more detail about the water level and such in the next video or two (Pts. 2 & 3 - In Pt. 4 I add details about recirculating the solution through the filtration system I made) So, I believe if you check out the next 2 videos, I do show and explain more clearly about the level of the solution in the tank. Basically, to answer your question simply, the level of the solution is just below the labels, roughly about 1/8" or so. I hope that helps! I don't remember for sure, but I *THINK* that in Pt. 2 where I show the rinse tank I believe I show a clearer shot of the water line as they are rinsing, which would be similar to the solution level in the cleaning tank.

@@latheofheaven thanks! I'll watch the other videos. I'm most curious about water sticking to the grooves as the record rotates, causing the gravity to pull the liquid over the labels. If this doesn't happen in practice maybe I'm just visualizing it wrong.

@@OldDirtHill Yeah, I know EXACTLY what you mean, and I was concerned about that very thing before I did this. I read about some where they have these fancy waterproof covers that go over the label, etc. But, the whole idea is that as the record rotates (as slowly as possible as I point out in the videos) the solution since it does have surfactants in it does indeed spread over the grooves of the vinyl, BUT it never, ever runs down over the labels as you might be afraid that it does. By the time the bottom of the record in the solution rotates to the top (continuously of course) the solution DOES adhere to the vinyl but as the surface rotates upward, the majority of the solution of course drains downward and not enough is actually 'carried' to the top to then run down over the label. I've cleaned probably 1000 - 1500 of my albums so far and the solution has never run down over the labels. Same with the rinse tank using just distilled water. But, after rinsing you *DO* have to be sure to leave the stack of albums sitting horizontally for long enough to allow whatever water is left to dry fully (normally on a dry day about 30 minutes is enough) I ALWAYS inspect the albums carefully as I take them off the spindle, giving special attention to the center deadwax and the most outer grooves, because if there is a small drop or two, that is where it usually is. I keep an eyeglass cleaning cloth nearby just in case I have to wipe a few small drops in those areas before resleeving the vinyl in 3 layer poly lined inner sleeves.

@@latheofheaven thanks so much for this detailed response! I'm 99% sure I'm going to pull the trigger and buy one of these. Wish me luck!

@@OldDirtHill Oh absolutely! Compared to all the Chinese crap metal ones on Amazon (no offense intended) this tank is very good quality and allows you the flexibility to add either their own spindle to hold the records (I've commented about the pros & cons of that in the videos) or you can make your own like I did. I've talked to one of the primary representatives at the company and he was very nice and helpful. This way you not only spend $1000's less than one of the commercial units, but like I mention in the videos, this is superiour in every way because not only do you have full control of the temperature, solution, rotation speed of the spindle, but you can also effectively do about 6 records at at time as opposed to say the Audiodesk ($4000+) which only does *ONE*, and gives you absolutely no control over the other variables 😊 I WOULD strongly suggest going through Amazon if possible due to their easy 30 day return.

Sure thing Bro!

Hey Steve! That sounds great man! Yeah, from the research and asking these really experienced guys about it, that seems to be the best system. Um... I don't quite understand though why you are filtering the water into jugs...? What I do, and I think this is a bit simpler and more streamlined is that I simply filter the water back into the tank as shown on the 2nd video. I generally do it after cleaning a few groups, and I let it run for the 20 minutes or so while the last group is drying. That way the water is continuously filtered back through the tank and probably in 20 minutes goes through the filters about 15-20 times. So, when the last group of records are dry. I stop the pump and close the valve on the tank. That way you are all ready for the next time. If you just run it through the filters once into some container, I don't think that would be nearly as effective. Just leave the water in the tank with the cover on until next time. The primary thing here too is that you are adding a percentage of the ILFOTOL to the tank which has antibacterial properties, so that you can leave the water in the tank, in the hoses, and in the filters until the next time you use it. Make SURE that you have your chemistry right for the correct balance and the most effective outcome to your cleaning, as well as making sure the heat is set correctly. I don't know if I mentioned this in my videos, I think I forgot and left it out, sorry... But, I got an inexpensive TDS meter at Amazon for I think under $20. That way you can check the water periodically, or after each cleaning to see what the levels of dissolved solids are. If you are using distilled water (like you should be!) and after you've added your chemistry, the meter should show around 0-3 ppm. Then, as I said, make SURE to *CIRCULATE* the water through your filters several times after each group. If your chemistry is set up correctly you should see a gradual rise in the TDS after groups. If you are filtering the water properly as I suggested, then you should be able to do anywhere around 100-200 albums before needing to change the water. You should change the water when the TDS starts approaching about 20 ppm. Some VERY important things to remember: 1) DO NOT do 10 records at once, that is too many and does not leave enough space between records to allow the ultrasonic waves to work properly. Regardless of what the guys at iSonic say (they are after all NOT record cleaning specialists) Make SURE to space out the records so that you only do about 6 at a time as shown in the 2nd video. 2) The heater in the tank takes a LONG time to heat the water, so what I do is I set it for 120 (I think that is what it is. I think the settings are 109, 113, 122 or something like that) And be SURE to use your TDS meter which also shows the actual temperature of the water! Do *NOT* let it go above 40 degrees Celsius! 35 is better because the ultrasonic action raises the temperature a little. As long as it is over 30 you can start cleaning. 3) As I mention in the videos, the rotation speed of their motor is TOO FAST! It turns at over 2 rpm, which will NOT allow the record surface to stay in the water long enough for effective cleaning. The main guy at iSonic when I talked to him said that the power to the rotation motor is separate from the power cord that powers the tank. So, if you can figure out a way to run a 3 volt AC adapter to that motor as opposed to what I am guessing is likely a 12 volt power supply, then you can slow that down to a little over .5 rpm, which is much better. 4) Get the chemistry right! DON'T screw around... Use distilled water and go by the proportions that I suggest which come from both reading the extensive paper on Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Records and actually asking the guy directly. 5) Be SURE to give the records a good rinse in distilled water. The simplest way I've found is how I showed using the simple dishpan in the 2nd video. Since you likely won't want to screw with the rotational motor that comes with the tank, you can simply construct a spindle like I have and just turn the records manually so that they rotate in the dishpan and give the complete surface of the records you just cleaned a good and *VERY NECESSARY* rinse. You might be able to take the spindle that comes with the tank and turn it manually in the rinse water, I'm not sure since i do not have their system. If you prefer, you can just vacuum/rinse the records individually using your vacuum/rinse RCM. But, I think that takes a lot longer and is a lot more trouble. If you are not vacuuming them dry using a RCM, then be SURE after rinsing to allow them to air dry COMPLETELY, with the assistance during the last 5 minutes or so with a fan if you wish to do so. I hope that helps!

@@latheofheaven Thanks for all the info! I was running it through several times before I jugged it, didn’t know how I felt about leaving it in the tub. But I’ll leave it in next time. I’m not using the solution you are using yet, I will try it though. Right now using the solution that came with the machine. I have a couple of other brands around as well I use in my Okki Nokki. Might be a pain to get ahold of some of the ingredients for the home brew one. But I’ll try it at some point.

@@stevelopes8783 Sure man... You will find that simply buying the few solutions will cost a LOT less and last a LOT longer! I have provided the links for the different products. Also, you will have the specific properties available as explained, for example the antibacterial nature of the ILFOTOL to keep the solution from forming bacteria, thus being able to keep it in the tank. Whether you put in in bottles or leave it in the tank, that aspect will not change. Unless you have a additive with antibacterial properties, no matter where your solution is stored, it will not stay 'clean' I know it sounds like a nuisance, but once you have the proportions and routine in place, it really is very easy and inexpensive. I don't know what solution iSonic gives you (like I say, in talking the main guy in distribution, I could tell although well meaning, he was *NO* record cleaning expert and just repeats whatever the company provides) If you are going to bother to go through all this expense of the tank and time and trouble, trust me, you *WILL* want the proper results so that it will all be worth it 😊 If you scan through the pertinent parts of the paper Aqueous Record Cleaning, you will see exactly what these solutions do. You need 3 basic properties in your solution: 1) cleansing agent/IPA 2) Surfactant(s)/a tergitol product/ILFOTOL 3) Antibacterial/ILFOTOL/Hepistat, etc. If you are also incorporating a vacuum/rinse RCM when more aggressive scrubbing is needed, you can combine a variety of different agents as I have shown the different combinations I use in my 2nd video.

The latest model from Isonic locks the heater temp at 35 celsius and no longer can be adjusted, using the temp gauge on theTDS meter it stays pretty spot on. The buttons on the right now just have time selections, 5,8,10, and 15 minutes. I'm not gonna do more than 6 or 7 tops records at a time so the space is there.

@@stevelopes8783 Oh, that's right, I remember the guy telling me that about the newer model having fixed temperature, I had forgotten that. Well, that's perfect then. Hmmm... I wonder why they don't have the longer times? I always run my set of 6 records for 20 minutes. I have no solid evidence that it necessarily takes that long and I'm not as dogmatic about that as I am about the solution, rinsing, and other things I've mentioned 😁 but I guess I just want to be sure that the cleaning is thorough. That's good that you are not doing more than 6 or7 records at a time. I would assume that you can just simply use the spacers they give you for the 10 records and space them out how you want. BUT... I will say that if you are using their motor at 2+ rpm, and you don't have a way to slow it down, you WILL indeed have to make sure to run the session a lot longer because the record surface area will not be in contact with the solution long enough at each pass to do any good. I'm *GUESSING* that MAYBE if you make sure to run it as long as you can, but don't go over 20 minutes, it MIGHT still clean effectively. But, if you want to be SURE, then if there is any possible way to slow the motor's rotation speed by connecting a 3v or smaller AC adapter somehow, that would be much more effective.

Hey, thanks Bro! Yeah, actually at first I ONLY had the European 240 volt version by mistake 😊 Then, someone informed me about that so I replaced it with the US one. Sorry I don't have that exact link for the EU one, but I THINK if you do a search on Amazon UK you should be able to see that version. The US Amazon also had the EU version listed originally, but you might as well order from the EU I would think for lower duties and that. Yes, the tank has worked fantastically. I will admit that most of my albums were fairly clean, but even the 30 or so out of my 2000 that I've cleaned already that I had to set aside for more rigorous vacuum/rinse cleaning still came out quite a bit better, and all the rest are for the most part really clean and quiet! I think with all the research these other fellows kindly did, and getting the solution where it is really effective, getting the heat and rotation speed right, *AND* very importantly adding the 1 or 2 minutes or so in the rinse tank seriously makes ALL the difference! Feel free to ask if there's any help you need! 👍

@@latheofheaven Hi , It's super nice to have answered me ++. Very appreciated !! Yes I would certainly need time if I pass the course and find this model (not want one of these machines from Aliexpress or other ... (quality ??)). What is the exact model of your tank (iSonic P4831 (II))? not easy to find here !! Sorry for my english . I will come back to you in PM if necessary and if I can ++ .One more time many Thx !!! ++

@@d6mike Sure thing! This is the primary link on Amazon US. It shows numerous models including the 220 volt ones if you need that. It also lists the many variations where you can get the record spindle and motor from them. I DO very much like their design, so if you decide you wish to spend more and get their system, then you can do that. Just 2 things though... 1) do NOT put 10 records because they will be too close together to clean properly. Instead, only put about 6. And, 2) their motor turns too FAST! It turns at about 2 rpms. I don't know if you can maybe buy a 3 volt AC adapter like I did for my motor also to slow it down to about .6 rpm, which is fine. you MIGHT also be able to do that with theirs. Otherwise, if you wish to do that part yourself, you can just get the tank itself: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PT6HRNQ

That is a good question 😊 You would not be able to use the DAC's remote to adjust the volume, however you can use the 'Mute' and other functions. As shown above, I have the DAC running through my primary stereo system. So, I have the volume of my 3 amps set and balanced for an average volume level. And, that of course can be increased if you wish to do so. If I am listening through the MusicBee and playing FLAC files on my computer through the DAC and my system, I use the MusicBee player's volume control, since that is the only one that affects the DAC directly when you have the device output of the MB set properly to play bit-perfect. However, if you are say watching videos on TH-cam and you are playing through the DAC to your system, then, since you are not playing through the MusicBee but you are playing through your sound card, THEN you could use your Windows/? general computer volume control for the volume. If you are using any other device to play through the DAC, then you would either have to use the volume controls/remote that go to that device or use the volume controls/remote of the system you are playing through. Depending on the resolution of your system, I would say that if you don't have a real sensitive system that you are playing back through, then you might not even really notice the difference. So, that would depend on how detailed your system is. I hope that helps...