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This shelf layout was done with the 1.5 inch stuff, which is overkill. My new layout is all done with the 1 inch bars, which is ideal (and much cheaper). It's still expensive up front, especially all the hardware, but it can be dismantled and reused pretty much indefinitely.

@@lepetitnabot Appreciate that clarification.

I did actually make one after this with more accurate ends but... then Atlas came out with an extremely awesome, accurate RTR model of these cars (of course) 🤣

@lepetitnabot I can't believe you responded! Lol Yes you are right Atlas came through. So how's the modeling going?

Yeah... something I forgot about: the short rails at the diverging ends like to slide around.

What's the problem you are experiencing?

@lepetitnabot my engine stutters on my 2x8. It runs perfectly on a piece of test track. I'm told to power the frog, but Microengineering says it's not needed, and my track is already glued down and won't come up undamaged.

@@brianmeyer2227 It's possible, although probably quite tricky, to add a feeder after the fact. Does it stutter on switches specifically, or anywhere on the layout?

I ended up only using 3 ME switches and hand building the rest 🤣

You remind me that I'm quite overdue for an update.

@@lepetitnabot Indeed Sir :D

Thanks! ^_^

Yes,there is. I've been HO modeling for decades. One skill that I suck at is painting locomotives. Would you share some painting tips and how to's ? God bless.

@@ModelingSteelinHO Mostly, learn to use an airbrush. It's a challenging, but game-changing tool to master. If you hesitate, just get a cheap dual-action Master brand airbrush from Amazon. They're actually quite good, just not very durable. The tip on mine broke after about 6 months of fairly frequent use. Now I use an Iwata dual-action and a Paasche single action.

@@lepetitnabot Thank you. You guys that paint inspire the rest of us struggling. Keep up the great work. I'll learn as I go.

@@ModelingSteelinHO The good news is acrylic comes off easily.

@@lepetitnabot So thankful for acrylic paint. Way better than the old school paint from days gone by. I use a lot of craft paint from Plaid & Folk Art. Tried running it through my Badger airbrush. Didn't strain it first. Didn't paint anything but clogged my air brush up good & proper. Cleaned it but haven't really messed with it. Been on a scratch building boom the last two years. Only a few more heavy equipment models needed for my steel mill. Keep up the great work Mathieu.

Thanks! The CEMEX truck is a recent Trucks N' Stuff run. You should be able to find them online.

Eh?

It's all in the silos, @@lepetitnabot. If you saw the mess I made...

@@SouthDown Well, glad I could be of help. The silos are a modified Walthers kit (933-3081). I had room for only 3 of the 4 silos, hehe. The building in the back is Pikestuff parts and styrene.

Thank you, @@lepetitnabot. Last night I ended up fading them up and now they don't look like Neapolitian ice cream. Perhaps another dusting to add additional fading and some weathering and they'll be almost passable. Almost.

@@SouthDown As I remember, I painted them off-white. The lines are just pencil marks (they look good from 3 feet but won't hold to scrutiny). The rest is done with weathering powders.

That facing point spur was more scenery than anything...

Thanks! The WRX and Integra are very modified, custom painted Japanese toy cars. You can find them on eBay by searching Tomica or Tomytec brand (I don't remember exactly but they come as a press-fit kit). The wheels are separate parts from Germany. A lot of work!

You're one of the first to recognize the prototype. I'll make a video eventually about the places that inspire the layout. But nah, I'm modelling FIT as I saw it in 2019 and 2020. I might go slightly off-script and run passenger/mixed trains. Check out the August 2021 issue of Railfan & Railroad for my article about the last days of FIT!

Reminds me of older Japanese equipment that had the big A/C on the roof.

@@keiichi902 That's because it IS older Japanese equipment, haha! Do you have any idea if Kinki Sharyo cars are available in HO in Japan? I've tried searching but unfortunately the language barrier is steep.

@@lepetitnabot I missed the Kinki Sharyo part, brain fart. I can't find an HO model of the car either. Tomix makes an HO Kiha181 (currently out of production) and Kato makes a Kiha80 (available on Hobbysearch). I think you would have to kitbash using on of them as a starting point.

Yeah, I know... no excuse besides my own laziness :-P

Thanks! I need to make another update.

Look up Model Railroad Control Systems (dot com)

Yeah, they're great. I've installed 9 so far and no early deaths or duds, they're all working as intended. You can get them in the USA from modelrailroadcontrolsystems dot com. The manufacturer is in Eastern Europe.

Thanks! mostly I keep it neat because I don't trust myself to remember what everything does hahaha

It's not cheaper than wood, even with wood prices right now. However, the difference between the alu and wood is the smallest its ever been. There's gonna be about 1500$CAD worth of aluminium once I'm done. The extrusion itself is relatively cheap, it's really the hardware that hits ya the hardest. I'm a very bad woodworker, so for me it makes sense. Another plus is it can all be reused if I ever dismantle the layout.

Okay that makes sense. My company uses a lot of that stuff and and it is neat to see someone using it and some of the advantages it has.

@@steve87thpsap Nice, you can probably get it for cheaper than me, then, haha! I get the extrusion in 8-feet lengths and cut it myself, but if you design everything before hand, you can get pieces pre-cut, and then all you need to assemble your benchwork is a 5/32 Allen key.