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Very nice demo to check if your thermowax activator is working properly. I notice that most postings related to thermo wax choke activators arise from hard starting problems. This would be the result of the activator pin not retracting properly on engine shutdown - thus leaving choke in the open position. My problem was the opposite - pin not extending enough to fully open the choke, resulting in over-reving. That's my theory, anyway, as it is a fixed-throttle engine, and I noticed my choke plate to be in the 1/2 open position after starting and running for a minute or so (running at 3700 RPM - should be about 3100). I'm currently awaiting an Amazon delivery of what is supposed to be a GCV-160/190 compatible activator. By the way- had a bitch of a time trying to remove the activator - some small engine activators are secured in the housing with a "weak" glue. Tried various pliars and small vice grips - no luck. I noticed that the grasping grooves of the jaws did not extend to the very tip of the vice grip. I ground down the closed jaws until the first groove was now at the very end of the tips - worked perfectly, although I had to brace my knee against the front wheel to keep from pulling the mower across my driveway.

Hello, I've lost the key. It's locked. Is there such a thing as a universal key? Mine is about as old as yours. It's in very good shape. Assuming I can open it, I'd like to sell it. Do you know how much they sell for? My brand is Thule and approximately the same size as yours, (maybe a bit bigger). I saw that a new one costs $700-1000. Thank you.

Nice work there!! Really love the rubber band trick. How did you know which part to order? Where did you get the ABS pump from?

Mine keeps saying unable to establish communication

What degree tip are you using? What type of liner floor is on the bottom of your pool

Nice. Where can I get a replacement lock and key from. Thank you.

Good video. Wish we had a pool. After you fix the pipe do you put a layer of gravel or dirt or is it all concrete?

I went down the same road - needed to use impact wrench to get the old one out, and the old rod was completely gone in my case as well.

Thanks for the video. I have a AO Smith from 2015 and I have tried many times with a 1/2” impact hammer to loosen the anode. I have released the pressure. The drain valve is a plastic junky valve (probably from a big box store). I am about to replace the whole blooming thing. Tomorrow I will try one more time and if that fails, I may call a plumber and have it replaced. I am afraid of hammering on the anode too much where I might damage the glass or whatever is in the tank insulating the main tank. I am not a plumber, just a home owner trying to make things work. All the best!

Nice demo on how the Therma Wax actually work. On cold start the choke plate is closed under spring tension from within the choke unit. When the engine warms the wax melt inside the Therma Wax device and the pin extends and pushes the choke plate open for normal operation.

This video helped me out a lot, thanks.👍

Hello from Nova Scotia, Canada. Interesting little experiment to show how it works. I've having an issue with a honda GVC160 engine on a mower and I think I've narrowed it down to this auto choke pin.

What if the voltage of the batter is 0.1

These manufacturers don't give a damn about their customers. There is no reasonable reason for them to tighten the anode rod so tight and fill the hole with foam knowing that the anode rod must removed at least once a year. In 2023 I purchased a A.O. Smith 50 gallon electric water and two months after installation the cheap looking plastic drain valve started dripping water and I could not get it to stop si I had to put a cup under the drain valve which I had to empty every day. Due to warranty guidelines I had to flush the water heater and check the anode rod. I got everything done and decided to replace the cheap looking plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve. The plastic valve promptly broke and warranty does not cover breakage so I had to buy a replacement water heater. The second A.O.Smith water heater at ten months started to trip the breaker . I called the company and they said I need to change the heating elements. The problem is the cheap looking plastic valve would not drain so I released as much water from the pressure valve which is not much. Lucky for me the water heater is in the garage so I had to take out the lower heating element releasing about forty gallons of water flooding the garage. I replaced both heating elements which was badly rusted after just ten months. I have to add that I am not on well water but city water which is pretty decent. I tried to take out the anode rod but it would not budge even with a full tank of water and a four foot extension bar. I called a water heater company and even with a compressor the anode rod would not budge. They took one look at the drain valve and would not touch it. A.O.Smith told me if using a compressor would not get the anode rod out then it's not coming out. They want to sell me an anode rod that is made on to the 11:59 hot water pipe for me $120.00. The problem is I still have a plastic drain valve that even the professionals won't touch. So I am just going to keep using it until it dies. Lesson learned? Never buy a water heater in withva plastic valve.

Congrats on the fix! Glad it worked out well. Thanks for the video. I liked and watched the whole thing. Looking forward to an update and maybe it'll even drive better. How much was that module?

Hey, you did it 😮

What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top

Thanks for the video. My ABS/Brake is on but turns off and stays off when I drive. It looks really easy to read with the jumper, I dont why Ive been putting it off. I imagine a reader might be able to turn it off temporarily but it'll just come right back on if the part is still throwing that code like you mentioned. (my reader does that with the check lights)

A cold gasoline engine needs a rich fuel mixture to start. Once started they begin to run fine on their normal leaner setting. Carburetors have both manual and automatic choke mechanisms. Both work fine if are in proper operating condition. Chokes can stick on or off neither will allow proper running. Avoid any debris into cylinder intake as it will cause piston scoring and valve seat damage. The air filter prevents this in normal operation. Disassembly could allow dirt into engine just be careful. Fresh quality oil and new spark plug and clean cooling fins and blower impeller and air flow tract. An inline fuel filter upstream of fuel shutoff not a bad idea. Clean gasoline is a carburetor’s best friend. Tiny ports and jets don’t clog. For long term storage drain tank and float bowl. At start up years later fresh fuel ⛽️ and she’ll purr like a kitten.🐈‍⬛ That little engine will run forever.

Started pretty good. Hopefully that means that it's not too depleted. I had an old battery that went on me. Tried to slow charge it overnight on the trickle charger. Didn't work.

Too many errors to list … either use a vacuum to suck out drill debris inside hole or use a compressor to blow out debris before putting in new screw

Unfortunately, mine will only reset for a couple hours at the most, which also finally enables the water and ice dispenser. After that, this error occurs again, and I am back to square one.

👍👍👍👍👍💯💯💯💯💯

A+++ FOR EFFORT!!!!

Shure you can get adapters and engage in the various other work arounds to get these tools to somehow work but what a pain in the ass the fact is the company left the owners of these tools high and dry when they discontinued making batteries for them WHAT GOOD DOES IT DO TO BUY THE SO CALLED TOP OF THE LINE TOOL THAT WILL BE UNUSABLE IN A FEW YEARS WHAT GOOD IS A TOOL THAT WILL LAST A LIFETIME BUT CANT BE USED WITHOUT GIMMICKS AND TRICKERY 20 YEARS LATER ALL THIS BS ABOUT LONG LASTING QUALITY IS JUST THAT BS

Your biggest problem may be electrical gear 8" from water heater if thats what I am seeing.

Clean 2016. Thats a good gen to have. And thats some life left on those pads. I did a short on the new 4 runner. What you think of it?

I used the same procedure and utilized my new Ryobi 18 volt impact wrench that has up to 600 torque lbs. Loosened it in seconds.. Replaced with the segmented anode rod. No leaks. Everything worked out great.

How much does it cost to build a screened in pool?

***fuse

Hi, do you have the p# of the 10A dust that you used?

Mine is doing the same thing, glad I found this video. Gonna order one. Thank you for the upload! Great help!

Start watching at 4:00 mark but there are better videos out there to watch. No reason why it is 26 minutes long.

Looks like you did a good job here. What's the benefit of that enclosure? Bugs/Heat?

How did the oil work out for you? I've yet to buy oil on amazon.

Thank you for this video and the item# for the screws!!!

This helped a lot. Thank you very much

Forgot all his gaskets on the engine side of carb

No need to drain any water out?

Thank you for showing this, i have an unrustered one but i dare say, might be same problem, heres to me drilling out riberts

Thank you for this video

Two comments - your way too late on the rod replacement realistically it's eaten the tank as well, you probably don't have much longer until a leak develops, but it's good info for the future. Replace the rod every 3-5 years, and it's nice to see someone using an actual impact socket on an impact wrench instead of a chrome hand socket for once! 👍👍

Im from ponte vedra jax bch FL. The foliage looks the same. The way you said alligator is the same as my friend Rich from Kingston. I have the same bike. I'm always adjusting it.

Well got to tell your brother you're going to have to replace it that pin sticking out will not go back in once it's worn out

It is not advisable to completely cover all the threads of the anode, just part of the treads is enough to make a water tight seal. The reason is you need conductivity between the rod nut and the tank for the electrolysis connection, so the anode can do its job. You should have less than 1Ω resistance between the anode nut and the tank frame. You can check that with a good multimeter. The rod is one electrode of an electrochemical cell with the steel tank being the other electrode. The two electrodes must be connected so that electrons can flow from the rod to the tank enabling the rod to sacrificially protect the tank from corrosion

My battery didn't have a reset

Ive got this exact thing going with my 2005 with drum brakes. But ABS/Brake Light shuts off soon after turning on. I will need to inspect it. Any pointers?

Alot of time waisted, plan ahead of what to do and say

Corro- Protec has an electric anode rod with a 20yr warranty. You should’ve installed it considering that’s an electric tank! Just need to ad an outlet on the wall to plug it in.

The tank drained so slowly because of suction. Next time open a faucet in the house and the tank will drain fast.