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Hi, I haven't been to Raja Ampat. At Kimbe Bay we saw a good amount of coral fish, but not so much pelagics. Pelagics only featured in a few dives. If you want to see lots of fish do a liveaboard from Kimbe Bay, or even better the Solomon Islands. The most fish I have seen was Woolf and Darwin islands in the Galapagos. I have a video of my Galapagos diving here th-cam.com/video/iwESt2L7Kjw/w-d-xo.html

@@Connorkmiec93 👍

Ha ha ha. Thanks

Landed cost in my shed was 40% less than the local suppliers who sell similar Chinese lathes.

Thanks 👍

Hi, the depth of cut is about 0.001" or 0.005mm each time i move it, and I normally let it do 3 passes of each cut each time i move it.

@@phildiver2225 Thank you.

Oops, I meant to say 0.05mm.

Hi Ryan, I'm out of town this week. I'll measure it when I return home and post a reply. Have you looked at my other video with closeup of the cam.

Hi Ryan, the advance arm crank pin is 16mm / 5/8" radius (32mm / 1 1/4" diameter) on the cam. That gives the blade advance arm about 32mm travel, which is more then enough for a 22mm 7/8" pitch blade. The cam overall is 113mm diameter at the largest point so there is plenty of room if you decided to move the advance arm crank pin out to a larger diameter to get more travel. This video shows you the cam close up th-cam.com/video/lu6yb1ZWXwU/w-d-xo.html The centre hole is 19mm / 3/4" diameter. The crank pinhole is 8mm / 5/16" diameter.

Thanks Phil appreciate it . I will definitely use these measurements in my build !

Hello M-Solution, yes I am still happy with the machine. Since making the video I have discovered the following minor issues: The imperial thread cutting charts are wrong. See my blog here philsbigshed.blogspot.com/2022/09/chinese-gh1440d-lathe-thread-charts.html Also I suspect there might be a very slight problem with the lathe flexing when the motor starts. I have noticed the DRO reading on the cross slide sometimes changing 0.01mm or 0.02mm when the motor is started. That is such a small amount that it does not really concern me, but I wonder why it is happening. Do you know what the difference is between your GH 1440 E and my GH 1440 G? Thanks

Thanks - i Get mine this thursday - I will come back to you with som update later on :-) Cheers

Hope you enjoy the new lathe. See my advice about how to lift the lathe in my blog. philsbigshed.blogspot.com/2021/08/buying-importing-and-review-of-chinese.html

So you can actually lift on the chuck like that? Hmm - i have the same lifting device at my garage actually. Mine is about 800 kg. Maybe i can post a picture her …

Hi, USD $3,192 for lathe, DRO and Euro quick change toolpost. FOB Shanghai. Shipping and import costs are additional. That price was August 2020.

@@phildiver2225 what were the import costs

The honing time will depend on.how deep the pitting is and how course the grinding stones are. I suggest you check after 5 minute intervals. I also suggest you 'feather out' the grinding part way down the cylinder. Good luck.

Thanks for asking, but Nah. I just make stuff for my own use. Suggest you give it a go yourself.

Tengzhou Uni-Tech Co., Ltd. unitechmachinery.en.alibaba.com/company_profile.html?spm=a2700.supplier-qrw.35.3.f5c67199AcA9vO#top-nav-bar

I have a similar lathe that is a 12x36 format. The metal guard over the chuck is supposed to keep the operator from starting it up with the chuck key in the chuck. I have kept it on my lathe as a way to catch oil begin slung from the chuck.

Very good video, but this lathe is actually looks like an Anhui Chizhou Household machine corp. lathe. Some interesting detail about that lathes: 1. Spindle start arm axle, made from 2 pieces, like this. (On the left side -near to the gearbox- you can see a thicker part.) 2. Gearbox side wall is unpainted on these machines, like this. 3. The sticker on the tailstock and machine stand right side, is also 100% indentical like lathes from this company. I bought a lathe in 2018 from this company, and never seen a machine, that was so similar to mine. Only the steady, and following rest are the different. (Other design of casting.) Another interesting fact: Very much chinese manufacturer uses pics, photoshoots from this company, with copy/paste. On some pics, you can see the removed company emblem from the original photo.

Gidday Anton, It's a nice part of the country you have down there. That question is a test for my slightly decrepit memory... 🙂. It was video'ed at the north end of Mokinui / Big Moggy Island. The chart plotter on our boat called most of the small islands 'Muttonbird Island' so that's the name I used when I made the video in the evening. We had 4 days of glass calm weather and stayed in Easy Harbour each night. Oh what a stunning place (when the weather is nice). We went out for day excursions and dived/fished the smaller islands. I also had a dive at the south eastern end of your island as we travelled around to Port Pegasus. That's where I made the youtube vid "Watching crayfish (rock lobsters) at Big South Cape Island, Stewart Island, New Zealand". There was a long low swell rolling in from Antarctica which made taking the video and hanging onto the rock a bit challenging - but definitely worth it. Nice to hear from you.

Obrigada. espero que te ajude. Google translate is wonderful.

👍

Glad you like it!

Thanks and welcome

Thanks

Hi, I didn't need to hold the chuck to cut a keyway, however I did make a simple indexing tool which can be seen at this link. th-cam.com/video/KG8hPcklveE/w-d-xo.html

Hi, I am very impressed that you made it so quickly in a few evenings, but much more impressed that you made a metal cam and got it right first time. Well done. My experience is that I had to make a different cam for each type of blade. I have 2 brands of blade. The tooth profile is only slightly different but I couldn't use the same cam to sharpen both types because one cam didn't fully grind the gullet out. I'd appreciate if you could let me know the link to your video of your sharpener. Thanks

@@phildiver2225 th-cam.com/video/igbHJ2IQ80c/w-d-xo.html this a copy of the link for my sharpener, it is not finished yet. However I have a Q: I tried today to sharpen a blade and the machine did not was falling the same way on every teeth , like in some of then was very accurate but on some other felt on top of the tooth and in others off the tooth or far away after the tooth passed the grinding disk. The only reason that I see for this is that the blade is bad quality, I know is Chinese, but on the other hand I was thinking that they must use a machine like this or somewhat similar to make the blade , so no reason for the teeth to be at different distance one from each other. unless they weld the carbide manually.

@@phildiver2225 where can I get grinding disks online?

@@lenador8619 I have purchased aluminium oxide grinding disc's from local suppliers and from AliExpress. It appears in your video that you are sharpening blades with tungsten tips so you might need diamond grit grinding wheels.

Thanks

Thanks for the positive feedback. Nice to hear from someone from the other side of the world.

There's another point on from that. Most if not all of them would be made by a CNC waterjet or similar and would have very high tolerances. So long as you buy a reasonably decent brand of sprocket its bound to be seriously accurate.

User elh380 wrote (in German): "you are bored and turn junk into even more junk”. Everyone is entitled to their own point of view, however I don't see anything to substantiate your rather negative comment. The lathe steady is very useful to me so it is not 'junk' as you have asserted. I notice elh380 has been a youtube subscriber for 6 years and has not yet contributed even one video that might help others. Perhaps it is time you thought about becoming more positive and helpful. Have a nice day.

Hi Charles. Nice to hear from you. Yes, steel for the cam would work OK but I think you will find it very difficult to shape accurately. I made my cams out of good quality 9mm (3/8") plywood that was made from some sort of hardwood and it seems very stable. I suggest you consider that type of plywood or maybe a piece of plastic sheet like polyethylene. Good luck with your build.

@@phildiver2225 plastic might be a good alternative or maybe I can find some teak plywood or something. It would be used in the winter in Arkansas and the summer in southeast Alaska, both very damp places. Had intended on powder coating all steel parts to protect from salt environment of Alaska

Glad you enjoyed it