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Thank you for your comment. Actually, I was planning to do like a proper video on the acoustics of the speaker, I just never got around to it because I went too deep down the rabbit hole regarding all of the different factors necessary to create a realistic "reproduction" of what I hear. If just a "simple" recording is fine, then I would be happy to just upload the sound-file somewhere for you. Do you have a specific (license-free) song you would like to hear? (BTW, I still use these speakers everyday, as they are my regular desktop speakers. If I had to build them again, I would probably aim for a bit more base, rather then the flat response line which I had designed it for. Otherwise, I am super happy and I really enjoy the sound and the unique design they have )

@ringoton maybe JKRS & ECHO - Maneater Layto -Soag. But I'm very interested in the set up because I just so happen to have the same drivers lying around and a printer ready to print. I just started researching the whole dilemma of speaker building. I designed my own xover and I'm just waiting for thr parts to come in. I just want to see what the potential of this combination is like.

I have uploaded the file here: www.transfernow.net/dl/20230927MtiP1Pai It will be available for 7 days ;) I recorded it around 90 cm away from the speakers. With a H1n Handy Recorder on best settings and a gain of 6.5. I used a Loxjie A30 amp set to Volume 30. Audio Source is my Computer with the volume set to 72/100 (windows, Creative Sound Blaster Z)

A 3-way speaker which is 3d printed would be possible, however the current design does not have enough space, therefore a bigger speaker enclosure would probably be necessary. Even this 2-way speaker setup does produce a nice sound stage though :)

I can always arrange a special production for you ☺️

Thank you, even if the comment seems a bit chaotic.

Yes, the trace does show a "short" condition. I wondered about why that was. However, from what I'm reading, it seems that once the 2 end traces are separated, one is still ground (the one closest to the edge) while the other is the actual antenna connection into the module. That's something that I'll do once I get the network going. I just started with ESP32 today only. LOL I've been an Arduino guy for years and finally "moved up." LOL As I learn the radio system on the ESP32, I HOPE that, like the Arduino, it's possible to select the radio's transmit power levels. I also HOPE that UNLIKE the Arduino nRF24 radios, that there's a way to actually monitor true signal strength. So far, I'm liking this ESP32.

@@BlondieSL So the more distant trace from the edge u r talking about (not the grounded but what is left of this trace), goes somewhere?

Hello MAK-1, thank you for the comment. Actually, I have been contemplating how to analyze the sound performance objectively. Unfortunately most of the audio testing equipment is quite expensive, so it's most likely outside of my budget. Therefore, I am looking into options of working together with some outside help. I'll try to upload the result as soon as I have anything available.

I am sure this will be the future. Not too long and this will probably become an established practice in the higher end speakers.

Thank you for the comment. I believe the shape of the bass reflex is quite unique :) Future-Fi is a nice description.

No play trial yet 🙄

Normal size

First time to film in 4K and with gimbal :)

Most of my prints had an infill rate between 70% ~100%. A lower infill rate would probably also be sufficient. There are two reasons to flip the shocks (1) Reduction of unsprung mass (dampers/oil reservoir is above spring) (2) apparently better for damper dynamics. If you are using CAD you can play around with the layout. Otherwise, it is a lot of trial and error… With each iteration it will however improve a little 😊

Actually, it's Tokyo ;)

Because the track of the tires is so wide, hardly anything gets caught up in the diff... However serious off-road terrain is obviously not possible.

@@ringoton Makes sense.

Most of the electronics part I purchased on Banggood.com. Your main components will be 1) ESC (electronic speed controller, above 60A should be fine for a smaller project) 2) Brushless motor (e.g. 3660 2600kV) 3) Remote Controller with Receiver (e.g. DumboRC) 4) LiPo Battery (e.g. 3S 3000 mAh) With that you have already covered all components necessary for controlling a motor 😊

Thanks for pointing this out. I hadn't realized this until now. I will try to redesign the parts, so that I can place the shocks the right way around.

www.amazon.co.jp/Extaum-Rubber-Wheels-Traxxas-Crawler/dp/B08KVSCYJJ/

Yea, that is exactly the tradeoff. For now it's actually quite fun to drive because it turns on the spot. Originally i wanted a longer wheelbase but due to the length of the mending plate which acts as the structural backbone i could not make it any longer. Something for version 2.0 maybe 🤔

I used esp-now protocol. I don't think that has a LR mode.

I am currently using 6000 mAh. Battery capacity is so much i have never fully drained it in one driving session. I also worry about ESC not shutting off at correct voltage, therefore i regularly check voltage

I am still working on some revisions. As soon as I am finished, I will make it available.

@@ringoton I'm looking forward

@@khanhne9056 cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/the-vortex-rc-car

@@khanhne9056 If you don't want to pay the two dollars, tell me and I am sure we can find a different solution :)

I can make one for you if you want ;)

Could you recommend me something that would be better?