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The factory tightened one of the screws so much that I can't get it out. It literally stripped the threads inside of it. Gee, thanks Anycubic. Because now I'll probably have to replace the whole machine....

Thermistors on my early dual Z i3 Mega go to T1 (hotend) and T2 (bed). The Y endstop on D42. Everything else is the same as video. The other i3 I have has bed thermistor on new pins next to D42 instead of T2. All else the same as video.

Great video thank you I needed this just broke the thermocouple and it’s part of the whole hot end It was my first printer and I want to keep it alive thank you

Hi, where can i buy a this mother board for replace? Do u have link?

Muchas gracia spor el video, es difícil encontrar tutoriales simples y sin youtubers ridículos mostrando su cara

Thanks for this, I'd put off fixing my machine for a year (I got a Mono 4k, so didn't need the mega as much) assuming it would be hard. I followed this and now I have my mega back and can get some terrain printed. Much appreciated, very easy to follow :]

my Anycubic Mega s ahve rattling problem. I tried to replace motor. I changed axis drivers and it seems like problem is in Trigorilla motherboard but i can´t buy this motherboard anymore. Is it possible to replace it with Creality motherboard?

I'd need such detailed video for 4max pro

hola alguien sabe donde la puedo comprar la placa base ,y gracias a quien me pueda ayudar

Thanks for the video. Helped me a lot to overcome my insecurity to perform the repair on my own.

fuck anycubic, can't even find replacement parts

Very helpful video with the wiring, thank you :)

INCORECTLY!!!

This! I've been using my 3D printer for several months without the use of the SD Card reader. In my case, the ribbon cable was not properly connected, so the card reader never worked. Until yesterday! This was easy and now my 3D printer works like it is supposed to! Excellent video!

Very helpful Thanks man

Useful. The fan cable have a red sticky glue that don’t aloe me to unplug it. My printer have a jam an I don’t know how to fin it.

DO NOT CUT ANY OF THE TIE WRAPS. It is not required and will just add unnecessary steps.

The tube won’t stay anchored when pushed into the connector on the extruder. As a result it won’t print. How do you fix this? I can’t find any of these connectors for sale anywhere either.

Can I get a replacement horseshoe clamp that holds the hotend on, I lost mine?

👎👎👎

shouldnt the power wires not be tinned ?

Sad that this is the solution to a brand new purchase. You gotta know there are issues when they include a spare in the box .

you completely glossed over the power setting!!! WTF!! Show how it's done and what it should look like for each setting.

I need to replace the motherboard of Anycubic Mega Pro. But Cura 4.10 show no option for "comm port" to brush firmware?

not bad but before inserting filament you should show to to move the bed down, because when I precisely follow only the steps in this video z-Axis is still in home and nozzle is right on top of the bed when you start with filament inserting

Why Any Cubic don't have screens displays for their 3D printers on spare parts sell ?? if you dont do that you will have great trouble.Dont say no body said sleeping beauty

OMG, I did it! Great video. Thank you so much.

Thank you, followed instructions, was a little daunting but all fine, thank you so much. ☺️👌👍

I was able to do both removal and replacement without cutting any of the zip ties

Fast and straight to the point. Thanks

Super!

when i change hotend and printhead then i can see on the old that the printhead is not tightened completely should it be like this or should it be tightened completely tight

Hi, do you by any chance how to tighten the rubber belt on an Anycubic mega Pro? My belt is very loose and my prints are coming out all toward one side.

This is so useful. Thank you!

@4:33 : useless daugtherboard. This makes things complicated where they shouldn't with proper and clean wiring.

I find taking the rear screws of first is easier because when you move to the screws in front, you can hold the shroud with one hand to keep it from dropping. I doubt anything would break off but better safe than sorry.

how is anycubic 4max as a first printer

T0 sensor abnormal. Help.

The big problem of this printer is that you can adjust the z-offset only in 0.4 steps! Closed firmware! I do not understand why Anycubic did this horrible thing!

thank you so much it s really helps alot

Hi! Excellent video, @minitec3d. Do you know where l can buy one SD card of Anycubic I3 Mega SD? l would like just a SD.

thank you so much, i was wondering why some of the belts seemed to be way more loose than others, now i know that i can tension them myself

If only the instructions on the package said this, I'd not be replacing mine *again* tomorrow...

the part at 2:50 min, when the inserted hot end, should be fixed, is bad constructed. The nozzle wiggles in the hole of the blue plate, which is too big. Why there is no screw to fix the hot end directly somewhere to the plate?

Thank you for this!!!

is it possible to install a hamera from E3D on the predator ?

se le puede poner otro hotend que no sea el de serie?

do you have a link for the film???

So I notice you mention heatsink can short the board which I think it happen to mine. Do I replace just the board or the driver too? Thanks

Just what I needed thanks