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potlife is quite fast at 2mins to 2.30 mins (based on 200g mix at room temp), the longer you leave it in the mixing pot the thicker the material becomes so ideally mix and pour as soon as possible. Once its poured into the mould this resin will generally reach a handling state within about 30 minutes.

the ptflex 20 is a beige / off white colour so you whatever pigment / dye you add you will have that come into play, adding small quantities of black polycolor dye will give a grey, or you could mix the black and white polycolors to have a grey to start. Alternatively we have the LR PTH pigments which we have a grey available.

This is fairly low viscosity but its inevitable that you'll trap some air bubbles, If you are careful with how you mix and pour you should be able to keep to a minimum.

Not to say you couldn't but you it might not work so well and you are likely to have a few curing issues, we have a range of pigments that are proven to work with with the ptflex range.

@@MBFibreglass ok thank u. I’m guessing this will be delivered within Uk. I hope it would not be runny if I brush it on a 1:6 tb league posable figure and not sticking to the silicone. I am currently using liquid latex which they recommended a thickener but it’s making lots of bubbles. It’s ended horribly. I have wasted so much money on this project. It also destroyed the figure. It melted the silicone that the figure is made of because I accidentally trapped thick latex inside.

@@MrColanzar2007 yes, we are UK based. the ptflex 20 is quite low viscosity (generally not as thin as latex but it will be runny). We have tested this in varying rtv moulding rubbers without it sticking but you would need to test it to ensure it suits your requirements overall.

Hi, if bubbles are causing issues, there are a couple options, 1: the expensive option of casting under pressure using a pressure chamber (including compressor) or you could try using a soft bristle brush to quickly brush the resin over the face of the casting / or gently roll the resin over the surface and pop any small bubbles you see, you can allow the resin to reach an early stage of gel and fill up, or if you have time pour the rest of the resin in and fill the mould up that way. In reference to bubbles also, if the material is colder than specified it will be higher in viscosity so you'll tend to trap more air mixing also, warming it up will help but this will also affect potlife so its a balancing act. If you want further guidance pop us an email or give us a call, you can find our telephone number and email address on the website (or on the labels of the containers).

Its quite a durable material but not unbreakable

@@MBFibreglass available in India???

@@LovelyNature-yv5op No sorry, UK and Ireland only currently.

Its quite a durable material but not unbreakable

Thanks Scott !

the ptflex 20 could be used to make a mould but its primarily / best suited for casting parts etc

You can indeed, bubbles will depend on the intricacies of the mould, you could have one mould that works flawless, and another that always gives issues with air bubbles in certain spots, always best to do a test run to see first and take steps to stop it from happening. Worth keeping in mind this resin is very thin so layer build up will be quite thin, the resin is quite stiff and lacks flexural strength so very thin parts can be more brittle than a dedicated roto resin.

The mould box was made from fluted polypropylene (corrugated plastic sheet, commonly refered to as correx), the original object we were moulding was polycarbonate (perspex).

You could but its generally not ideal, best to use a silicone base release agent for that sort of application, bonding of the two materials is quite high given both products are polyurethane

If you mix the product thoroughly, you can peel the left over material out of the tub, and reuse them until such times the tubs are no longer usable.

The metal powder is acting more akin to a dye or Micah powder. It colors the resin and the finished product will bear characteristics of metal. However it doesn’t play a role in the chemical reaction between part a and b

Hi, it can be fairly hot and certainly warm even in fairly small castings, It would also be worthwhite testing the compatiblity of the foam vs the polystyrene to ensure its not causing the cells to breakdown further etc.

@@MBFibreglass thanks for the info. I'll certainly do some tests 👍

This video was due to a common question we get about this subject and to show that its not strictly necessary, with care you can make a good mould without one. The use of a vacuum pump and chamber is totally worth the investment if you are doing lots, it will tend to give you better results overall. Classes aren't something we would offer currently.

We have many customers using either and/or both.

The flexible foams have their uses in upholstery

Hi Zoe, We have Macwax and Polycraft no59, these would be about the most popular. The Polycraft no59 is more of a softer sheen in comparison to the macwax which leaves quite a heavy matt finish

@@MBFibreglass thank you so much

Yes, no problem, will keep you in mind, thanks for sharing or details, much appreciated.

Materials are not toxic, when mixed and cured properly they are inert. Winter is tough on the hands and weren't looking to good on video so gloves where used to protect the viewers eyes

The LD40 would be water resistant (the rigid 145 would also to an extent). We wouldn't class either as waterproof. The LD40 is commonly used for bouyance on small boats etc.

Hi, this is a cold pour (Room temperature cure)

The ZA22 mould is not skin safe unfortunately.

Hi, the silicone was the polycraft S30 - link in video description, The base of the mould was approx 8-10mm thick at the base, (the mould walls are around 20mm thick due to the step in the mould) When creating the mould initially it was done so on a level surface so the mould itself was was able to self level and maintain an even thickness.

@@MBFibreglass thank kindly 🙏

Hi Frank, pop us an email with this email to sales@mbfg.co.uk and we can run through a few things with you to try and get you on the right track.

@@MBFibreglass wow thank you so much! I will get this over to you tonight. Many thanks!

Typically it will not bond to acrylic (polycarbonate) however it can be useful to use a release agent to aid release. If unsure we would always recommend patch testing

T20 link www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-t-20.html - the dyes cannot be interchanged unfortunately

Yes, of course, just not the aluminum obviously.

Hi, We had some polycarbonate cnc'd and then we made a mould with our silicone materials.

@@MBFibreglass so are you selling this mould and/or others that you have made ? Thanks

@@juliepierce2066 We made this for ourselves with the materials we sell, unfortunately we do not make for others

The closest in spec would be our Duroflex 30, its a light amber translucent PU elastomer

@@MBFibreglass Thank you!

@@MBFibreglass Just another question.. Is the any clear matte paint which will bond well over urethane?

Will it also still be able to conduct electricity?

no its fine

Any powder when fine enough can present a fire hazard and have the potential to explode. Most of that depends on the micron level of the powder. If you had some ultra fine powders, they are easily set on fire obviously and can combust given the right conditions. If you buy the stuff in this video, the powders are extremely low risk.

Hi, There are so many variables involved room size, ventilation facilities, size of castings being made etc. The Manufacture advises the following : 'If needed, an approved respirator with organic vapour cartridges may be used. Respirator selection and use should be based on contaminant type, form and concentration. Follow applicable regulations and good Industrial Hygiene practice'

It should do

Its commonly painted with automotive aerosol type paints to good effect. We can't comment on use with cellouse as its not one we've tried.

Yes but thats just as it starts to set..your working time will be about 30 seconds!

whilst in the very early stages of cure you can manipulate it to an extent, after cure you would need to use a heat gun to carefully heat it up to bend it to an extent also but best to try doing so whilst the material is in the early stages of cure.

Hi, yes this can and is used by many of our customers for prop helmets, we have the silicone thixo available when when used with the GP-3181-F will turn it into a brush on rubber.