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That's great to hear, glad it worked for you! Thanks for sharing your build.

Correct. The capacitor creates a phase change between the 2 windings which causes the motor armature to turn. The VFD supplies a changing phase relationship. Thus the capacitor is removed and function of the capacitor is provided by the VFD.

@@Janet-vx9qn Simply don't go down a path if you can not comprehend the content or if you take the content out of context. Your situation is not the same as the project documented by this video. You are trying to run a 220V planer from 120V source. This is not within the context of this project. Don't blame me or anyone's comments on this thread for your project becuse it doesn't apply. Since you have no background in electronics or electrical motor operation, your comment that it shouldn't be this hard has no merit.

You probably could. But it really depends on what you are using your diamond spray on. I use mine primarily on various motorized belt grinder with leather belt or a wool pad on a scissor flathone. What I have since found is that anything with speed that can cause the sharpened item to heat up will cause Propylene Glycol (PG) to form a hard crystal coating on my sharpened object when the item becomes heated during the buffing process. It doesn't take much heat before the dark black crystal forms on knife or shear. The crystal coating can be rubbed off with alcohol but it takes a bit of effort. So any concentration with PG in the solution has the potential to cause this situation. The 50/50 use of humidor solution would create this coating. I have since moved over to using my recipe with the Di-Propylene Glycol (DPG) and I don't have any of those issues anymore. If you are using the spray solution on hand strops, I don't think you would have any problem. But like I said, I am really liking the new formulation. You can find the new formulation in the video details under the 20240712 update. I use camellia oil to the recipe to keep things better in suspension because I I have and use camelia oil for shears and knives. Mineral oil for cutting board might be a suitable alternative if you don't have camellia oil. I really like the new formulation for both motorized belt and hand stopped leather pad.

What I said was that the Veil post is larger diameter than the wolf clamp. One option might be to drill the smaller hole inside the veil post so the wolf pin would slide inside the Veil pin, if a person had the capability. That is not an easy task. That would take some serious machining skills, This is why Cliff Curry's solution of just swapping the wolf clamp onto the Veil vertical upright component is the simplest modification. My solution is a simple solution because I have a 3D printer. I can just print out my design.

@@prairieedgeservice does he have a video on how he did it?

No he just has pictures. They are in the "Sharpening With Viel & Other Belt Sanders" facebook group. unfortunately I can't attached a picture to a comment. It is the whole concept that Frank did on an earlier comment.

not sure this will work but here is link to one of the pictures. scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/117238601_10220953064649344_7576348375256354925_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=e06c5d&_nc_ohc=uzsdO4PA0nQQ7kNvgEbSnxE&_nc_ht=scontent.fyyc3-1.fna&oh=00_AYA0vGy6w4gxztJt8GmDjdAbP3d2CraGK8xflHBv4Je_Hg&oe=6707CD17

@@prairieedgeservice you mean remove that block from the original? What size sleeve?

Yes that same approach was posted that earlier in a veil grinder FB discussion. I also looked at the pin and it is conceivable that a person could hollow drill the existing pin to the size that the TAS shaft would take and then it would be dual purpose keeping the original pin. That possibly might just require a drill press. Old clamp and new clamp could be used. Love that people think up of great ways to adapt and make a good tool, better!

@@frankrapposelli4017 how were you able to get pin out? I don’t want to damage the arm.

all the information you seek is in the other video. This video is the continuation which regards the programming of the unit found in the first video th-cam.com/video/qpZFb5PtnTk/w-d-xo.html

In the end I think any ratio would probably work. I haven't needed any more solution yet to try other recipe. One person posted previously that if they used 50% propylene glycol (PG) and 50% vegetable Glycerin (VG) that the diamond powder stayed in suspension. This is a common vaping configuration recipe. Propylene glycol(PG) and di-propylene glycol (DPG) are a type of alcohol which are used as a viscosity reducing agent and aids in keeping powders in suspension. DPG is considered safer and used in cosmetics. The other idea is you want to keep a bit of tackiness so it holds the powder onto the strop when it dries. Glycerine or vegetable glycerine would help keep leather soft but you don't want so much that it starts acting like a sticky sugar and holds more dirt and steel on your strop. The glycerine would tend to cause spray bottle nozzles to clog up. Next time I try it I might just use straight humidor solution since it is 50% water and 50% PG. Nothing to mix but it would end up costing a little more to make the solution. Also if you use different diamond grain sizes, add a different food colouring so you know which solution is which grit.

@@toddbenko6701 that last bit is great advice - color coding different grades. and your first point - doesn't matter the ratios - even pure distilled would do as one shakes the bottle anyways before spraying. my order of diamond dust is arriving first week of May and will try 50% DPG + 50% distilled water. will also try 75% DPG +25 distilled and last - pure DPG and will let everyone know results...mygreathanks and blessings

I use my diamond spray solution on 1x42 leather belt and a flathone scissor honing pad. When using the solution on the flathone for hair shears on a felt pad, the scissors would get hot enough that the propylene glycol would crystalize and form a hard shell on the metal. My last batch I have changed my recipe to the following 2.5 oz distilled water 2.5 oz of Di-Propylene Glycol 3-5 cc of Camellia oil 25 CW = 5 grams monocrystalline diamond powder. I added the oil because I wanted a more softer media that would that tend to move slightly in the direction of some of the diamond pastes. This isn't a paste but it keeps a diamond solution on top of the felt pad stropping media. I use camellia oil because it is what I have on hand for knife coating and scissor lubrication. So far this is working extremely well. I also notice the solution is keeping the diamond powder in suspension much, much better. It spays out on my work surface as almost a sort of light thin foamy appearance. Maybe I should have use 3oz water to 2 part Di-Propylene Glycol. But it is definitely better than using the propylene glycol product.

Everyone had different ideas of how they want the diamond crystals become cutting agents. We use this approach because the diamonds are sprayed and remain on the surface. We want the solution to be able to evaporate and expose the diamond edges but also to be held sticky enough so they don't bunch up or scraped away by the stopping action. I use mine either on a 1x42, 1x18 leather belt in a belt grinder or on a flat leather strop. The spray on solution is to apply a new top coat of diamond crystals. The diamond paste configuration is similar to your concept. It is used to build a base foundation on a strop. Both are acceptable but basically two different intentions. One is base foundation, the other is surface retreatment.

I don't know. You would have to open up the housing and validate. It should be a split pole motor with a run capacitor just like a bench grinder. Only little use a magnetic tap in the motor winding in place of a cap to produce the phase shift. I leaf blower requires more torque and hence is why I think it should have a cap.

The motor does get warm but how much really depends on how you use it. When I used my grinder @1750, and I really ground things down it would also get warm. I think the motor is still cooler running at 1000 RPM with more torque using the VFD than if I bogged down the 1750 down to 1000RPM because the fixed frequency original configuration only has current to make up for the speed reduction. The benefit of being able to set the speed slower or faster depending on the task is totally worth it for me.

Cela dépend essentiellement de ce que vous appliquez votre solution. Je pense que le propylène glycol pur aura tendance à se gommer et à s'accumuler sur votre surface car il a une affinité pour l'eau. Si vous lavez et nettoyez souvent la surface, ce n'est pas un problème et cela fonctionnera.

@@prairieedgeservice un grand merci pour votre réponse. Merci pour le français, c’est sympa.

Correct, you get a gold star.

I was just about to add the same and noticed your comment. 😂

The deionized water prevents the diamond emulsion from clumping each other giving more even and consistent micron

how did it go with the glycerin? sounds like a great idea....mygreathanks and blessings

Any updates guys?? Haha

Still works good

Another update and tip. My formulation tends to settle down. To help remix it, I added a couple pieces of ceramic pellets for rock tumblers in the bottles that seem to help break the settlement up.

In high torque applications like you are using you should use a VFD like the one I showcased but actually use a 3 phase motor. You want and need the three phase windings in the motor to provide the torque needed, especially if you are slowing down the motor. A VFD will give you speed variability but if you exceed the torque of the motor with the electric current you will still end up burning out the windings. 300 RPM is really slow to and high torque at slow speed can cause the windings to burn out. For these type of applications, I would recommend some form geared down drive system. A VFD might help prevent your concrete agitator to prevent burnout but you would have to test to validate. The soft starts with the VFD would help control the high in-rush starting currents when under load. Can't be sure that it would fix your issue though.

Cuando el motor eléctrico esté parado, presione y mantenga presionado el botón F/R durante 3-5 segundos. F/R = avance/retroceso. El LED F/R cambiará de estado y el motor ahora funcionará en la dirección opuesta.

No creo que esto sea posible con la configuración VFD original. Creo que tendría que configurar el VFD para usar un interruptor de funcionamiento externo que podría estar siempre cerrado o usar un retardo de tiempo. De cualquier manera, necesitaría explorar opciones utilizando componentes de interruptor externos.

@@toddbenko6701 excelente gracias hermano por su respuesta un fuerte abrazo desde Republica Dominicana.

The capacitor causes a phase shift for the second winding. You didn't identify how you would connect the VFD to the motor in that specific case. If you are connecting the VFD to the two phases then you are causing two outputs to be tied to the same wires as the capacitor. You will likely damage the output transistors of the VFD. But if you are like a college classmate of mine, he would purposefully bought polarized capacitors just because they would blow up when connected to an incorrect power source. Deviations from my proposal are yours to figure out. I only present the findings of my own test.

So, definitely, capacitors need to take off for AC single-phase output. Thanks

Thanks for sharing your different adaptation and success! Congratulations!

So yur DP motor dosnt have a start winding, just a capacitor winding like the bench grinder ? so you basicly did exact same wiring as in the video

Nothing that I know of. Using a split pole single phase motor under normal configuration will also get warm for that length of run. Because there are additional inefficiencies when using the 3 phase VFD, the motor will get warmer. If you are thinking of using a motor continuously for 5 hours, I would recommend getting a proper 3 phase motor.

You can reduce motor heat on any electric motor (regardless of its phasing characteristics) by use of an auxiliary fan. In fact,.. this rule applies to DC motors too! Most shop grade motors utilize Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) motors. These motors are designed to keep shop grit out of the motor. Because of this a small fan is attached to the opposite end of the motor's spindle. When the motor is running this fan moves air across the outside of the motor housing. Unfortunately, when a VFD slows the motor's RPM, that little fan slows down too! So it's now moving much less air. When I converted my Midi lathe to 240VAC 3PH VFD drive I ran into the same issue. As a result, I attached (separately powered) muffin fan to the back end of the motor. Wakodahatchee Chris

@@cdrive5757 Actually it is an Air conditioning air fan coil unit,no issues with body temperature it is working fine so far.

@@mustafadudde Uh, the reason for that seems obvious. Besides, a motor driving a lathe is going to have very low speed demands that an air conditioner's air handler will never experience. PS: After re-reading your original post I now realize that my response was less than ideal in your application. On that note, most modern VFD's can be programmed to increase or decrease torque. This "Torque" setting does increase or decrease power consumption at a given speed. To the best of my knowledge Torque perimeters are adjusted via PWM superimposed on the variable frequency. The Torque settings are very useful for air movement applications, where torque demands are relatively low.

website for the VFD manufacture is www.zhonghuajiangspindle.com/VFD-2.2KW.html manual is available at community.carbide3d.com/uploads/short-url/sPh8tLgHr8zcgjSTjTfZp8PDyl.pdf Lots of good information about unit installation from carbide3 site: community.carbide3d.com/t/how-to-h100-vfd-1-5kw-air-cooled-spindle-setup-zhong-hua-jiang/54310

Yes a person has to double nut the wheels to lock the nut when running in reverse.

He is just showing the capability. Nobody would do something so stupid as grinding that way.................Never mind- your comment is spot on for the 21st century.

Watch the video at time stamp 5:19. You need an ohm meter to measure the wire resistance and refer to the wiring diagram to select which of the two capacitor leads to use.

The second wire is connected direct to live line feed. So make sure it is protected with electrical tape or something

@@toddbenko6701 so, I just need one of the lead of the capacitor to the VFD ?

@mysraalokbe817 correct. The second lead is already connected to the vfd using the hot (black) lead that would normally go to the plug. You proved that with an owm meter.

The answer is NO. You will need to select a different VFD model. I believe you will need a VFD model that specifies 3 phase input 120V to 3 phase output 120V. Remember we are not running a 3 phase motor, but we are connecting a single phase motor with 2 phases in a 3 phase connection. This is not fully balanced hence don't expect perfect operation.n

Is vg = Vegetable Glycerin?

@@emaicee correct

@@ivanlujan253 Thanks for the fast replay. I will try your mix. Does a spray bottle still work or should I opt for a pump cosmetics bottle?

Propylene Glycol and Vegetable Glycerin... Thats what i use in my vapes... :) thanks thats good to know... but does it matter if you get poly or mono chrystalline diamonds?

poly crystalline diamonds are better but cost way more and harder to find. Mono are still diamonds and will still perform a cutting action. It's really up to you as to which you want to use but both will work.

The solution I really wanted to use was DPG or Dipropylene Glycol. It seemed much harder to find and more expensive just for small batches of my own diamond spray solutions. Footnote even with the Propylene glycol, my latest batches still seperate sitting on the shelf but they do stay in suspension longer than just water alone.

I have both PG and VG in gallon each, I will try VG on my next mix, VG supposed to be a bit thicker.

@@ivanlujan253 What is VG?

Vegetable glycerine ​@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797

​@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 Vegetable glycerine

here is one for 1 micron powder www.amazon.com/s?k=diamond+powder+1micron&crid=7OKO2OZVKLAQ&sprefix=diamond+powder+1micron%2Caps%2C191&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 here is one for 2 micron powder www.amazon.com/Micron-Diamond-Powder-25Carat-5gram/dp/B07PBQ6WXJ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7OKO2OZVKLAQ&keywords=diamond+powder+1+micron&qid=1682316196&sprefix=diamond+powder+1micron%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-5

Post a picture of the units. Especially of any of the make and model numbers idents of the motor. If you don't hear a click when the units startup or shut down chances are it would work.

First of all validate your type of induction motor. Many induction motors on drill presses have a starting capacitor which is linked to a centrifugal clutch. If you start up the motor and hear a defined click sound, it will have this centrifugal clutch system, in which a VFD probably can not be used. The secondary windings on these motors are not designed for sustained current application. If however you don't hear the click and you open up your induction motor and find only 1 running capacitor then yes you should be able to connect a VFD. If that is the case, I believe you will want to look for a VFD with 210-240V input single phase and 210-240V output in three phase. Now if your motor has the centrifugal clutch, I would look at just changing the whole motor with one one of the Vevor sewing machine motors that already comes with it's own VFD. you can get them in 550W 3/4 HP or 750W or 1000W versions. Because of the motor speed variability (~400-4000RPM), you could probably simplify to just a single belt pulley ratio. You just have to manage the motor mounting configuration. I use these type of Vevor motors for my 1x42 belt grinder and are great! eur.vevor.com/ac-servo-motor-c_11222/sewing-machine-motor-220v-550w-brushless-energy-saving-servo-motor-industrial-p_010409180232

@@prairieedgeservice thank you very much for this information , i will have a look and see what i have here. i know i have 1 capacitor , but i'm not sure about the click . when i turn the motor off however, i hear a sound that seems to me like an active break to stop the motor. like something is touching the rotor inside. it's hard to explain , but i hope that it makes some kind of sense.

@@NLDHGRockStaR some induction motors still only have 1capacitor but have the centrifugal clutch. It important to identify if you have the clutch. Watch the following video. m.th-cam.com/video/2XYdTogWcIA/w-d-xo.html

@@prairieedgeservice thank you for your quick response , you really helped me out here. much preciated for your time and effort👌

@@NLDHGRockStaR They almost never use centrifugal clutch motors in EU. If your drill press is the generic type that you just buy at a hardware store, it will work with any three phase or single phase input VFD, as shown in the video. The three phase input VFD has a three phase bridge rectifier and it doesn't care if you feed it three, two or as many phases as you like. Make sure to connect the VFD at 230V AC, not to 380/400V AC. Then read the user's manual and SET THE LOW INPUT VOLTAGE THRESHOLD at 200V. Otherwise, if you use a 400V AC input VFD and only feed it 230V AC, it will go into protection mode. Good luck!

Hi Jim, I don't anticipate selling any of these. These are simply prototype 3D printed parts using materials (magnets) that I have kicking around. Secondly, I think that every multitool will have angular variance between the shield and platen angle. Thereby eliminating the possibility of commonly produced guides.