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Hello, I am not 100% sure about that. I believe that when I did this job I ended up buying two different sized clip "kits" to make sure I would be covered. I didn't want to make a 2nd trip to the store. -Dutch

When you cut the straps, the shocks will extend at a "slow-medium" speed. Enough that you need to be ready to work with placement as soon as possible. They don't "shoot out", so you can be comfortable at least with that respect. Thank you for the question and for watching the video! -Dutch

Thanks for the input and thoughts. I am curious what you will find when you change the filter. Please let me know! -Dutch

I wish I could answer that. I had to go back to the place online where I got my spa. They don't have an online parts catalog either which kind of bugs me. I am actually looking into finding a way to switch all of my dials over to something I can get easily online through Amazon or supplier. -Dutch

@@czrgee3231 so glad it helped you out! -Dutch

You shouldn't have to with regular incandescent bulbs. Halogen or other type bulbs you would want to be careful with oils, etc. Not a bad idea to practice this with all bulbs though...it's just a good practice! Great question btw... -Dutch

Keep me posted on how that goes, that sounds like a great idea! I appreciate you sharing with all of us! -Dutch

I totally agree with you. Too many things have been skimped down over the years to "reduce costs." -Dutch

There might be some initial break-in noise or in some cases if the rotors develop a little surface rust on them they will have some initial noise for the first couple of times on the brake pedal, but this was actually the backing plate making contact with the rotor. Eventually the plate will wear enough where the sound will go away, but that should never be acceptable. Abrasive noises coming from your vehicle (constant ones) are never a good thing and are in indication something isn't right or is about to fail. Cheers! -Dutch

@@mywa8314 no negative impact to radio reception as far as I can tell. I only drive in our local area so I can’t speak to overall performance. Great question though! -Dutch

@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 ah ok thanks 👍

I believe it is a difference in color. I think the 3157 is clear and the 3157NA has an amber tint to it. -Dutch

Yeah,it does come in a tint color,,but hope it doesn't affect anything 😁

Sorry to disagree, but that is a 2004 model year truck! Because 2004 was a split year with some 2003 carry-over to 2004 models I guess it's possible there are items in a 2004 truck that would be model year 2003 AND other items that would be for the actual 2004 model year. I am sure I don't have the only 2004 model year F150 with this BCM layout. I can't help that. -Dutch

I used Map gas only because it is hotter, so less time on the copper. I imagine you could use Propane, it may just require more time with heat on the joint which will conduct further up and down the piping. Hope that helps and thank you for watching the video. -Dutch

@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 Thanks, I will be giving it a try tomorrow.

Hello! Great question! The stone is tamped flat so every edge is basically flat with each other. That is what is key...make sure to tamp the stone down very well! Thanks for watching the video! -Dutch

Hello, I am sorry to hear that. Can you describe a bit more what exactly is happening? I may have some additional pointers for you. -Dutch

So glad the video helped you out! -Dutch

You are welcome! -Dutch

Hello! Have you done any work on ANYTHING around the shift cables and connection points? One thing you could do is manually disconnect at the transmission and see if you can shift into all gears by hand. You can also have someone run through the gears with the clutch in and engine off and watch (at the top of the tranny) to see if the cable does any kind of abnormal movement or binding/bending movement at that point in the shift process (5th gear). Hope this helps in some way. -Dutch

@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 I did the clutch and flywheel thinking that was the cause but besides that nothing

@@luh.breezy7984 again, I would take a look at shift points at the linkage connection on top of the transmission and then also the shifting assembly in the center console. Visually watch all the connection points for movement and of course questionable parts.

You are most welcome! -Dutch

Hello and thank you for watching the video and for the kinds words! I am glad the videos were helpful and giving you the confidence to do the repair yourself. Great work and good luck! -Dutch

Super happy that the video helped you out! -Dutch

Thank you for the compliment. So for those filters I do not change based on the gage reading. I believe the recommended frequency for the non-sediment/scale filters (of which there a quite a few) is every 100k gallons or every 6 months. I am not hard and fast with this frequency, but do my best to change the SED filter every year (I watch the pressure gage and have never seen it drop dramatically over that time). The others I do about every 15 months. I am on city water. If I were on well water, I would add a 50 micron spin down filter before my SED filter. The spin down filter is purged manually and the SED I would replace probably every 6 months to start with and then judge after more closely watching the gages. I hope this helps you out! -Dutch

@ thanks.

@@williamslack7152 thank you for the feedback. There are two videos for this. An in depth one and a short with links to either one in the description. Some people need more info than others. When making these videos it is easy to assume everyone understands tools and terminology, but they don’t. -Dutch

That is great to hear! Thanks for watching the video. -Dutch

Thank you! 7.3s rock! -Dutch

Hello! I'll put that on my "to do" list. It is a very good suggestion, just will need to schedule the time. Thanks for the question/feedback! -Dutch

You are welcome! -Dutch

The #57 gravel we got was probably mixed with varying sizes like you mentioned. I think they state it will be a certain size, but you get some above and below that size. From what I know, ground contact lumber is pressure treated lumber. We stained ours as well after letting it dry. We did this to give it even more longevity. Slightly warped lumber shouldn't be too big of a problem as long as it is acceptable in appearance and function for you. It is quite difficult to get straight PR lumber, but you can rest it on a flat surface and rotate it with some weight on it to help take excessive warpage out. Hope this helps and good luck! -Dutch

Thank you for watching the video and for the kind words. Great observation too on the smaller stuff we had thrown in there. That little bit of smaller gravel was actually some leftover gravel from another project that we just tossed in. It serves no purpose other than maybe it saved us a wheelbarrow of #57. :) Thank you for the question! -Dutch

You are most welcome! -Dutch

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@@dymond1785 so glad this helped you out! Thank you for watching the video and for the nice compliment. -Dutch

Great question! The black mat layer is not impervious completely, water can drain through it slowly. Between the matting and chicken wire, the goal was to prevent/stop/slow down any gravel settling issues. 99% of the water going through the gravel is just rain, not hot tub drainage water. I really appreciate your observation and it certainly is a fair question! -Dutch

Yes. It is just going to be more difficult just because of space, bit it can be done. -Dutch

Hello! We are located in southeast South Carolina. Currently we are pretty booked with car projects. What exactly are you needing done? -Dutch

What number are you referring to?

@@dutchmenmodsandrepairs1427 on the rockers there is numbers and letters does it matter cause I don’t see a match with them anyway

@@boostboyracing I don't think the rocker numbers and letters matter, but I can't swear what they are for! I looked at the service manual I have regarding remove and replace and inspection of the rocker arms and nothing was mentioned about numbers and letters. -Dutch

So, you have been on quite the journey! Not sure why they would replace things if there aren't any leaks. That hissing noise, in my brief experience, has always been associated with the freon level going low. The recharging of the system each time has been what has gotten you back to cold air (so I still suspect a leak is there). In my first experience with the hissing noise it took awhile (2-3 months) before the system just blew warm air and the second time it didn't take long at all (1-2 weeks) before the warm air started blowing. It wouldn't surprise me, if your warm air shows up again, just depends on how often you use the a/c. If you can get the noise on your phone, send it to the email listed in the description of the video and I'll take a listen to make sure it matches what I had. -Dutch

Hello, I am not 100% sure what they are called. I have seen some places refer to these as pins and spring. To me they are roller bearings and a spring. Not sure if that helps, let me know if I can help clarify. -Dutch

Try out this video. th-cam.com/video/1O0CvOHl6Vo/w-d-xo.html

Thank you for the input! The video is not intended to showcase a perfect world field test. I believe the video even mentions that this is more for entertainment AND a means of show casing the robustness of soldering as a means, not just brazing. I do appreciate your feedback though... -Dutch