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Thank you for your kind remark. And yes, the lathe is the place to do this. The cross hole out to the bearing surface can be done on a drill press, you do need a vice on the press and then a bit of care in centering. Yes, I could possibly make up these kits, including the bearings which need to have the split widened to allow for them to fit, they are generally just ever so slightly too large. And yes, it would turn into a full time job, for there are millions of these out there that do or will need the kit, but I am retired and have some real life issues that would be impacted. I have considered setting up a situation where the person would send me their pins and I would modify them. I have also considered stocking the bearings and doing the slot modification so that they then fit properly.

Thanks for the complement. I used a metric thread for this, just because I found it first. The fittings are on a 6x1mm pitch, the drill size is of course 5mm and the tap is a 6x1. You could also do this in the Imperial threads, it's just up to you. I used a straight thread instead of a pipe thread because I wanted to seat on the head of the fitting. Again personal preference. The fittings came from Amazon, I got a 10 pack, which is enough to do 1 hinge assembly. You use 8 on each hinge. I did not do the front at this time because I had broken off this board running over a speed bump (that surprised me I must say, but it was under snow at the time) and so I replaced the front with a new motor, it was just easier and not all that expensive. The zerk fittings I got were: uxcell 201 Stainless Steel Straight Grease Fitting M6 x 1mm Thread Hydraulic Grease Fitting Accessories, 10Pcs The grease that I am using is: Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge (As a note, do not used this grease on rolling bearings such as ball or needle, it will cause the rolling parts to not roll and will kill the bearing, it's too slick). The video about drilling and tapping is: th-cam.com/video/o17Wr1HZkgM/w-d-xo.html

@oldfarthacks thank you so much. PERFECT.

@@milesfifer171 I am very happy to help.

Well at least I didn't call it George.

A good question. The answer can be easily determined, if the motor is attempting to run and the board is not moving, then the friction in the pivots is greater that the power produced by the motor. So in general, the bushings in the pivots have lost their plastic and are now metal on metal. That leads to high friction and binds the hinges. Replacing the bushings is actually reasonably easy and cheap, well worth doing. With that said, it's not a bad idea while you have these apart to refresh the motor. Clean up the commutator, make sure that you still have good brushes and also clean and lube the bearings in the motor.

Yes, I used the original pins. I did modify them so that I could install grease fittings.

There are 4 pins in the rear hinge, 3 pins in the front hinge and of course the motor for a total of 8 bearing surfaces. As to taking the pins out, I used a shop press. This is covered in this video: studio.th-cam.com/users/videoy39FRmfZyOw/ You may want to go through the whole series, that is found here: th-cam.com/play/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_.html

That will be rough. To my knowledge, Ford has never sold these as a free standing part. I actually burned a set, but since I had a broken hinge, I had a spare set.

Were it me, I would be chasing down that tick before you get out of the warranty period. There should be no ticks, clicks or any other noises. This could be a bad bearing. In the end, you will most likely be doing what I plan to do, which is to replace the headstock bearings with angular contact ball bearings. This allows a bit more accuracy in the bearings.

I am glad that you got one of the good ones. The quality is very hit and miss, this is why I went to the Shars one, they demand a higher level of quality from the Chinese vendors.

Overall you are right. But I was surprised by how much bigger the holes were than the studs. This can lead to minor misalignment when the chuck goes back on. I don't, at this time, know how much effect that this will have on run out.

correct, the holes could be 3 times bigger with a washer. the only thing that actually centers the chucks is the mating surface, not the holes

What I show in the video is that it is of a suitable size for the lathe and some of the basic features of the attachment. There will be a later video where I actually mount it to the lathe and do some work.

Perhaps, but then, I make them as I see them.

Ya got to go with what you see. I looked and saw a flying saucer. Who know, I may soon make a project out of that, turn the sharp outer rim down a bit, drill in some small holes and then install a blinking LED in the middle.

@@oldfarthacks if you keep up this format, content and these quality of videos, this channel is going to grow massively.

Thank you very much. I am still learning as I go.

I like it, I really do. The only question is, should I deburr it, making them civilized?

The bushing sets are available on E-Bay. I just did a search on the terms: Ford running board bushings and got back a listing. If you put into your search bar : www.ebay.com/str/qdiltd?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 This will take you to the vendor's page. Look for the bushing set for the F150. The thing with these bushings is that they are slightly oversized and so you will need to use a Dremel tool with the thin cutoff wheel to slightly open up the slot in the bushing. You can then insert them into the hole.

Congratulations, it's nice to know that some good stuff actually slips through. And yes, the Chinese are noted for leaving things that float on water like very small rocks in their products.

@@oldfarthacks chines lead also floats 🤣

It would not surprise me to see that. Cheap Chinese Lead. They fake everything.

@@oldfarthacks in all honesty most of machining stuff sold by western businesses still comes from china. They just add an extra layer of quality control.

Yep, it's still working well. Went through some very cold weather and worked quite well, nice and smooth. You can get bushing sets on E-Bay, you do have to widen the slot in them to make them fit, but then it's reasonably easy.

I worry about getting the old bushings out. I don't have the lathe to make that jig with a bolt... @@oldfarthacks

Many times you can push the bushings out without too much problems. Worst case, if you have nothing else, you can cut the bushing in half using a hack saw or a coping saw. Then you can pop the pieces out. You also may be able to crush them inward to get them loose.

Thanks for the info on the motor bushings. In my case, I did not do that because I needed a whole new bracket for that end and so just ended up buying a complete motor and bracket set for a bit over a hundred bucks. I will have to do the bushings when I do the driver's side on the Navigator, so I will look into that as I do up an additional set of videos to add to this set.

The bolt should be tight, but it is specified to be a running fit to the clamping ring. It is supposed to be tight to hold the clamping ring and allow for smooth operation. I could have fixed this any number of ways, but one of my goals was to get a properly manufactured product. I am on a one man quest to get the Chinese to actually make good products, instead of what amounts to the kits that they are making. I ended up spending a bit more and got one sold by Shars. That one was correct, but even there I had to have them replace one of the tool holders.

The problem here was with the cam and teeth on the back of the locking blocks, they did not engage properly, the locking blocks were not properly machined.

I wish you the best of luck. I tried to get them to replace the foot plate for the tail stock and in the end all they did was throw lots of money at me, a massive discount. But making a gib should me a reasonable project. I haven't yet had to take my cross slide apart so I don't know how that gib is set up.

Thanks. Glad that you find them helpful.

One can never quite tell when something is going to be over designed. Thanks for the comment.

Those fittings came from Amazon. the listing is for: uxcell 201 Stainless Steel Straight Grease Fitting M6 x 1mm Thread Hydraulic Grease Fitting Accessories The drill that I used would be the normal drill for a 6mm screw, that being a 5mm drill.

Hi Paul I made these pins myself, using the stock pins. Stuck them in my cheap Chinese mini lathe and did the deed. This is shown in this video: studio.th-cam.com/users/videoo17Wr1HZkgM/edit

Yes, I understand the problem with that taper. Still we have to have a bit of fun from time to time. At this time, I am only making a few test cuts to see if the X/Y table is usable. If I decide to actually use this as a mill, then I will alter the spindle and chuck by putting a screw into the end of the spindle and threading the center of the chuck so that they screw together, locking the chuck to the spindle taper. Yes, I know, it would be better to drill all the way through the length of the spindle and put in a draw bar, but that's quite difficult in such small stock. Still, that could be a wire EDM project, so who knows.

I'm in Missouri, the land of the Hold my beer and watch this people. We believe in things going right. LOL

@@oldfarthacks unless it has a Chinese origin 😂

Well, there is that. 眾所周知，中國人不遵守所有規則。

Nothing but the finest Ozarks engineering practices. This is the heart of hold my beer and watch engineering. Where no one even blinks when you tie two strings onto your windshield wiper arms cause the motor burned out and then you work them manually.

Spoil Sport. This is just to see what happens and can something be done. Is this a good setup, clearly not. Is it useful for a production shop, good heavens no. But it's fun.

Oh in principal I agree with you. But this is an experiment to see what can be done on a very tight budget. Sad to say the Bridgeport route is not for the tight of budget people. Also this is for a hobby shop. So I am exploring the limits. And yes, I know that there is a problem with the chuck falling off the spindle with side loading. That will be fixed in another video.I will be adding a holding screw that comes in from the bottom, through the chuck and into the spindle. I need this even if I decide to change to a different type of chuck such as a collet type.

And therein lies the fun, to see if something useful can be made of it.

I will have to try harder. But still, it's a start.

Indeed, anytime you can pick up a functional tool for a reasonable price you should do so.

😜

Glad to be of help. I wish you all the best in the coming year.

Thank you.

Thanks for the kind words. I am glad that you found this video useful. As to grease fittings on your Expedition, they are not a standard Item. I added them to mine. Look at the play list for this video series and you will find the video where I altered the pins to take grease fittings.

Thanks for the tip but that may violate TH-cam creator rules.

Much appreciated

An Idea, I love ideas I do.

For now, I will be using this for small projects. This whole thing started with me being curious as to just how good the cheap Chinese tables were. With that said, your idea about extending the column is the best way to add a bit more utility. This would involve getting a new pipe for the column, one that is longer than the current one. Of course, I could also go insane and make the drill press into a machine where the there is an inner and outer column and then put in a gear drive to change the column height. Either that or just find a cheap vertical mill.

I am glad that you found the motor on line. There are also people selling new front bracket assemblies. They come out of China of course, but they do work.

Thanks. I have thought about it a couple of times, but I don't know if I could actually make it into a viable product.

The whole goal here was to see what you can get for a low price and see if it can be made into something useful. This is going into my hobby area, where it will get used maybe once a month. Yes, these are not top of the line equipment.

I made them using the stock Ford pins. You can see the process in this video from my series on this process. th-cam.com/video/o17Wr1HZkgM/w-d-xo.html

@@oldfarthacks thank you. I’m going to try this myself.

There are any number of errors possible here. In my case, the V cut into the base is too shallow. One of these days I will recut that to the right size. But part of what is going on in this series is seeing if I can get the supplier to actually fix the problem.

No, that was a precision triangle from a set. The one in question was the 45 degree one.

You're welcome!