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Thanks for the nice comment. To be honest, I would have been just as well off to have went your route by buying a GM alternator. This kit was poorly put together. The alternator still works great but the work it took to properly mount in modification made the kit mounting parts worthless. Your resourcefulness in mounting yours seems to have done really well. And, it makes the tractor more reliable in the field.

You are correct, But I did start the tractor after completing it and showing the completed job as a success and the meter showing 14 1/2 volts charging. And, I opted for just being silly and taking it for a spin around the field with the bush hog mower to show it worked just fine. You can see this at the end of the video along with my obvious lack of vocal abilities. The problem with some of these kits are that they are not always so cut and dried, and ready to install. I actually could have bought a GM alternator and made my own bracket. But even modifying the bracket they sent saved me some time. They supplied a pretty decent wiring harness. The instructions were horrible, faded and hard to read. If a person was not familiar with automotive charging systems, they might have been a little lost. You will have to replace the belt because the length will be different and mine had to be longer. If I missed your point about it not working, I appolgize.

@user-yj7yn4fi4l good deal. I used to work around a lot of things that way my self. I was always upgrading old 6 volt 50's cars and trucks to 12 volt by using 70's and 80's alternators from mostly GM vehicles. Pleased to meet ya!

Awesome! Glad it was of value and helped. Sometimes different mowers can be difficult to figure how to get to hidden parts, such as gas tanks.

My exact situation! I poured maybe a gallon in from my can and left the cap off of the tank while looking for more gas around the house and got sidetracked. Starting sprinkling rain for maybe 15 minutes and when I went back outside to start mowing I noticed the cap off. Funny thing is, it mowed fine for the next 30 minutes. The last 10 minutes of my mowing I could tell it was running rougher. Tried using heet to turn the water to gas but that didn’t work. Gonna have to pull the tank

I know it has been a year since you asked this question and I apologize. I'm afraid I'm in the same boat you are in now. the numbers have rubbed off my belt since I bought it but I had to measure to get one to fit originally.

WOW. I'm gonna try that. Can't get fuel to the filter. So once the tank dries up, the vaccuum picks up the debris? I tried siphoning the old gas out and putting in new, but that didn't help.

Yes that’s the idea. Run the air mattress inflator to dry the tank. Then keep the inflator on and add the shop vac to get the dried debris. Easier than removing the fuel tank. Good luck

@@scotts.4086 It worked. Also found the wire to the starter solenoid was showing a lot of copper so I wrapped it in elec tape and put it all back together. Started right up and runs great. Not sure which thing fixed it though, ty

Yeah, I had to slot the bracket as well. The spacer that came with it was useless, and I had to make one. I reused my old top adjusting bracket from the old generator. I heated and bent it to shape. And like you, a new belt was needed. These kits are not well-thought-out it seems. The wiring harness was good that came with the unit.

@@larryheninger3499 i have to assume the harness was good because it came from the alternator not the kit. i have the 301 diesel and the diesel bracket will work. i ran the nut down on the bolt and just got it to bend the u bracket to the spacer.

I think you may be referring to the top adjusting bracket. If so, I ended up not using the bracket with the kit because it did not allow enough adjustment for the new belt and as I recall, it did rub the sheet metal. I instead took the original bracket and shaped it to fit the offset and it allowed a longer adjustment and better clearance on top.

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. I have been out on the property for the last weeks working and not around the computer much. The tensioner bracket is attached to the top of engine block (on the gasoline engine) where a cover is located for a water jacket. You use the outside bolt closest to the alternator to run through the bracket. Of Course, the bolt that is used for the adjusting slot, screws into the alternator. You should check your alternator for proper thread size and bolt length because some of these alternators may be metric that comes in kits or if sold as a lone unit. I would hate to give you a size, and you damage your threads in the aluminum housing. Thanks for watching!

Yeah, I always figured they went to the same place missing socks went to. But sometimes my junk tool drawer comes in handy.

Lol, i did the same thing.

If you are talking about the wire retainer clip, It will slide sideways to unseat the catch. I usually just pinch it up and use a twisting motion. But it may be easier to hold down on the bottom and with the other hand unsnap the locking portion of the ring. If you examine the snap you will see where it comes together. It is a typical automotive wire restraint.

Glad it was helpful!

I have to agree on this particular tank. It's construction is heavy enough but does not allow for any visual inspection and level indication is zip past the little light that says " Your'er OUT!" They already have a place at the tank for a level indication, I don't think it would break the bank for them to add a $30 dollar indicator to a $3900 dollar machine. Thanks for watching!

I guess I should have expanded on that part of the video to include how to pop that cap off to remove the pick-up line. The line has no filter inside the tank end or a screen. The top "cap" has small clips that should be handled very carefully and not forced. I used two small o-ring removal picks that were very slim to maneuver up under and depress the catches. There is probably a dealer tool, but I have no idea what it may be. But it came loose fairly easily and just popped back in place when I re-installed it. It has a O-Ring seal around the hole. The tube come out as one piece and I cleaned and replaced it. My blockage was actually in the 90 degree bend at the top. Hope this helps.

You may just want to just run something through it if you are unsure and don't want to chance breaking it. Then rinse out the tank. It is a straight through pipe and bend.

@@larryheninger3499 something like pipe cleaner ?

@@TheDryLife That might be reasonable as long as the fibers don't shed or come off.

How do you remove the fuel pickup