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Thats the point of the pre-sloped float. If there is a hole in the pan and the floor is flat the water will make its way out the hole over the years. A prefloat compells the water to run down hill past the hole and never pond on say warped oxb plywood substrate 12" x 12"wide dip or such. I say stay off the prefloat while its fresh or one causes dimples under the pan in the prefloat, thus the ponding issue is brought back into the equation. Agree with you to protect the raw wood, I always put down detri-mat or kerdi to prevent even the plywood sheets from cracking up, heaving and damaging mud bed. But I dont use the vinyl pan anymore, use the Mapei Aqua Defense etc. type waterproofing membranes for a pan. Way more versatile than trying to bend a vinyl pan on ADA applications, curbless showers, etc. I have not installed a vinyl pan in I dont remember how long, 20 years? 1st was the Mapei PRP-315 2 part pan, now the paintable ones, all good when applied to the right mil thickness. They dont make cars like they did 100 years ago, time to embrace new technology.

I think the fold was wrong, watched twice. His way, water can travel in the fold and migrate out of the pan. Just my thughts. Have been doing tile since 83, many many rodded off fat mud shower walls and dry pack mud shower pans. Concrete block or brick curbs and benches. Not this sandwiched vinyl pan crap between 2 layers of dry pack mud. Where is the structural integrity? But overall its passable, getting right on top of the fresh prefloat negates the purpose of the prefloat as it creates dimples in the prefloat, thus low spots for water to pond on as it migrates through grout, mud bed, runs down hill following sloped pan to flange weep holes. Low spots lets water pond, over time calcium, hard water can erupt through grout joints. Plus I even put my pebbles on top of the flange as there are small weep holes there too that if plugged with dry pack will eventually plug with the hard minerals, calcium, lime, iron and not let water pass them. Just another line of defense to help the drain system work for many years. .

No, he did it right, way better to have the liner inside cement curb like that rather than a wood curb that it rapped with the liner. This way will last way long. This is how I have always done them.

You can buy it already bagged at Home Depot, Lowes etc. Its called sand topping mix, deck mud etc. If you make it raw use 40 shovels of masonary sand and 1 bag of portland cement. Divide it back for smaller batches. Mix it dry with a hoe and shovel. Then add the water. Should be the consistency of a snowball, stays together when packed in hand, when hand opens it does not crumble apart. Its so dry to permit shaping and not like a blob of jello that gets all pushed around and is difficult to contour. To make cement for the walls buy bagged mortar mix or do the 40 shovels of masonary sand, 1 bag of portland cement and 1/2 bag of lime.

Bob doesnt do his showers correctly either...

@@Trucker-Belly ,hey man ,I've done tile for about 40 years, takes pride and time to give a quality job. But Bob needs to cut grass or paint

@@jamesderbaum9678 yeah. Ive been doing it for only 6 years but I got a lot of trades under my belt which help out when doing tile in a lot of cases. Ive been injured several times from roofing and the military so now that Im older I think tile is just about all I can do now. I like doing showers and my work turns out really good. I want to keep moving up and thats why Im always watching these videos.

@@Trucker-Belly be sure never use treated lumber, it swells ,which will crack joints and tile, I my self I'm fighting cancer, what a fight... Wish I could show you trade methods.

@@jamesderbaum9678 sorry to hear that. I wish you could show me. I have a full time job doing mostly showers but 100% tile. Nobody else in the company is “great” and I can only learn from watching TH-cam videos. In one way its nice bc I work alone 99% of the time but Im always stressed. So far everything Ive done has come out wonderful and Im not just saying that lol

coze he didn't put any 2x4s and drive handful of nails in the membrane ?

kinda funny I've been watching video after video and the failed shower pans are always the new foam ones professionally installed or not

@@handydandyhomes NO....mortar pans are the oldschool garbage...the foam core base and sides is the only way to go !!!

@@Mrcrisis2012 just saying the videos I have watched all of them foam ,wedi , kurdi so on im sure there are mortar pan failures just from what I've been watching its all foam failures professionally installed

That a question I had . As tedious as it was I actually chiseled out my concrete foundation to attain a 1/4 inch per foot for the pre slope. I regained the height of the shower flooring ( some) by pouring a 1 and a 1/2 mud base on the liner. At the drain end ( tub to shower conversion) the floor level was back to where it was and at the far end ( I removed a 60 inch tub) the flooring was an inch and a half above the original foundation floor level. I installed a curb for this installation.

Either brand is fine. Your belt however should be tight enough to keep the butt crack at bay.

I've been using Fruit of the Loom for years, I haven't had any leaks.

Exactly

5 parts sand one part Portland cement