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End to end usually.

i agree, usually end to end. some outline "travel distance" additionally.

You need a good and powerful hydraulic press to undo such a large diameter ball screw

@@NourMuhammad So you think its not good for high precision? Thanks.

@@eugenega7494 It really depend up on your definition of precision! In most hobby applications it is good enough though!

@@NourMuhammad I wanted to achieve 0.05mm precision on each axis with finished machine. Rigid steel construction and hiwin rails. Later it could be changed for better parts, but I need to know should I go into that project with this ballscrews or should I stop it and look for other solution. Thanks for your help man.

@@eugenega7494 I think it is achievable, but you need to get rid of the bent in the ball screws and also get yourself a backlash nut for each one of them, if have access to hydraulic press and a good setup you can remove most of the bent by trail and error and get them to -+10 micron

Well, that is simply not true, we are not talking microns but 100s of them and the way the setup is done is simply to show the problem. The tension created by the dial gauge is enough to place the block under almost a constant pressure and to transfer the force without any major shift The way the block is placed is good enough to show the problem and not for taking accurate measurements or a repeated readings! Also this is a known issue and you can find others having the same problem. You just got lucky and if it is the case you should not compare what you saw with what you got!

@@NourMuhammad I'm not trying to argue with you, I just think a better test would be to eliminate the buffer block between it as its a clearly repeating error, if you ran directly to the bearing surface it would be more convincing for us watching your video, perhaps the video depicts the error accurately but it's a little inconclusive for us as the viewers and not the in person. Didn't you find it strange that the error was so repeatable with identical values at each revolution? I'm only trying to help, I've checked bearing surfaces myself and thought they were incorrect but then realised another influence was upsetting the results. Just a thought Muhammad 👍

@@wayneshephard It is not an argument, I am not trying to say this is the most accurate test and also there is no need for that, I am simply sure that this is not a reason for inaccuracy, I have repeated this test with other ball screws (4 of them) with different blocks and I was getting exactly the same results, I assure you that the block is not a source of any major errors in the readings, actually in the matter of fact, this is the way this should be done because you want to measure the over all bind in the rod not the constancy of the grooves by simply eliminate the inconsistent measurements you would get from the grooves. "Didn't you find it strange that the error was so repeatable with identical values at each revolution?" That's really very strange to ask such a question when the video title clearly says "Bent SFU1605 Ball Screw" what did you expect from a bent rod? A bent bar will do exactly this behavior man! Which really prove that the used method to measure the range of the bent radially is correct! Anyway, I came to conclusion after reading more about ball screws and saw several people having the same issue that a rolled ball screw will always have this issue to certain degree so I am not complaining about it anymore!

@@NourMuhammad ok, so you ended up using them, worked out ok in the end by the sound of it, I've got one that is a bit out and definitely didn't try to straighten it but I can certainly sympathise with the desire for accuracy in such items.

@@wayneshephard, I was able to straighten them to -+0.02mm by using simple DIY hydraulic press !

actually the precission class is not about the bending, but on the exact lead. lol. but it should be relatively neglectable. of course it depends on what you are doing. might also be a cartel thing, that the big four deliver lower grade stuff to the masses to keep their profit stable and led their customers shine. thats how one thinks in capitalism. "(w)holistic marketing", lol.

Didn't pay for a new item to FIX IT before using it!! Being cheap doesn't mean being broken out of the box!

I think mine may have failed as I drove the spindle to hard and stalled it, the current may have exceeded the boards capability.

I have bought same at AliExpress and VREF stay always at 0,01V...

@@carloseduardobaldocchi2543 Did you apply power to the Driver? Vmot and GND have to be connected of course. Otherwise I would say it is in fact broken. I know genuine Pololu Drivers are more expensive but either you buy genuine Pololu DRV8825 from an official local dealer or you buy more DRV8825 than you need and have replacement if one fails.

@@ToBeDefined85 I connected the DRV8825 to my CNC Shield. I put a Jumper between "ENA/GND". And put a +12VDC at the pins 12~36V. I tried to meter the Voltage between GND and the screw of the Driver. But it always get 0,01.

@@carloseduardobaldocchi2543 CNC Shield V3 (for Arduino Uno) or CNC Shield V4 (fpr Arduino Nano). The V4 pcb design is completely wrong. The V3 design is ok. Check the conductivity of the glas fuse in the middle of the CNC Shield. Often it is broken and the Driver doesnt get the supply connected to the 12-36V screw terminal.

@@ToBeDefined85 Thanks very much. I will do that tomorrow and talk to you if it works. Thanks a lot.

Nope!

@@NourMuhammad i have 2 picese of it. one for 1.75 and 1 for 3mm filament

@@hs1em1998 First of all, I know the difference, this is not the 3mm. Secondly, even if it is true, that wouldn't matter at all, still, it should fit the same way as the other one exactly!

I bought one what made in china and it's have 2 picese like dat. One fit for 1.75mm one is not

@@hs1em1998 For me they didn't work at all!

Already did!

One thing I am sure about which simply is those are not made by TI !

@@NourMuhammad Where do you recommend buying original from?

@@@microheliaddict If your application is a 3D printer, then, in that case, I would highly recommend using the TMC2130. I have been using them for a long time now and they are much better than the DRV8825 in every aspect. If you are in the States, then buy them from Digikey www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/trinamic-motion-control-gmbh/TMC-SILENTSTEPSTICK-SPI/1460-1187-ND/6572861

Well, As you can see in the video it came in the nameless plastic box and it didn't have any labels or whatsoever! So basically, it is a brandless item! You simply can buy it and threw away the outer box and print one yourself and that's exactly what I did and used the inner hardware and it worked perfectly fine(I did some minor adjustments to fit my machine!)

you might be right, but i would not generalize that. as long a certain quality is not guaranteed in a business contract, it is not part of the product, right? rather more in the head of someone, who insited that other would like to work for next to no margin.

@@erwinz5926 I usually buy cheap chiese parts for prototypes, then talk to suplier what i am going to do and my needs, they usually respect and just sent parts in my specs.

and. ohh. you get very standardised quality, especially in this terrain. linear rails for example, but also screwdrive screws, ballscrews.... that comes in 8 CLASS es. With subclasses. Showing the exact deviance. Yes this products are more expensive. though the high end class as rexroth serves and so... thats worse the extra penny, when you are totally in that chasing the micrometer scene....

@@lUnderdogl 👍thanks for the reminder. communication is very important. in communication and service, most alibaba firms at least claim being online 25 / 8.

Regardless of the other 100000 variables, this is the system I have paid for that I supposedly going to use as is without any modifications!!! and I am expecting something to work not to suffer from! And BTW, I have tested the system in other conditions and always getting the same results! And also BTW, it is not only me that has this issue, youtube full of those bent ball screws! There is a stage that the ball screw should go through before finishing which is after Harding and Grinding is straightening!! and obivesly they didn't do it!

Gabriel Gaban Well, searching for a cheap alternative is not a mistake! E3D stuff is so expensive for nothing and overrated and simply doesn't have the quality you paid for. At least, That's my own experience with there parts!

I agree , the originals are far too expensive for what they are, besides because its a clone it should still work even if the quality is inferior to the original even though be in the long term the clone may fail earlier.

E3D quality is exactly the same that some clones. E3D product are over priced, buy once the original product is more than enough to support the designers.

Well, I have already done that once and that should be enough as a support for E3D, it is my turn now to support myself, don't you think so! And BTW, I was checking the orginal E3D Extruder I got months ago and I found the bearings have a fear amount of rust on them!! So much for a support!!

I think E3D have acknowledged this problem, you should be able to contact them and get replacement parts.

Where? All I know About this acknowledgment, the problem regarding the case cracking because of the lubrication, but nothing regaring ball bearing have rust on them!!

So what? Contact them, they'll replace it. E3D has great support.

I've bought E3D products in the past(the V6 and Lite6) and I love them, but have you checked the price they are asking for the titan extruder? at least for me after VAT it's about $70 even before the shipping cost, with all due respect to supporting the original designers, that's just too much money for an extruder, sorry, but i'll take my chance with the Chinese clones, the uploader had a problem with this manufacturer, but it doesn't necessarily means all of them are faulty.

No, I got it all right, simply because the lever with the ball bearing was going it's maximum travel and whether or not I added the spring-loaded bolt it wouldn't change anything regarding the problem! I have already discarded all the plastic cover parts and printed my own, it took me over 7 hours of printing! even I have printed the output guidance plastic part because it was also out of alignment!!

Thanks! I did this and it worked. A few videos have the same incorrect assembly of that screw.

Nothing backward, it is just being manufactured incorrectly! I just throw it away and printed the whole thing from the original files and now it is working. It toke me over 6 hours printing with 0.2 nozzle and 0.1 layer hight!

Yeah China... It's all so pretty until something to bad. And it will go bad more often than we think! I'm going through a lot of troubles just to get a DOA remote replaced...

@@NourMuhammad Hi.. Can you please link the STL file?

You can Download the original design files from E3D and very easily open them with fusion360 and customize them to your needs and save the parts as Stl and print them. I did that in my case. I remember the one I have has some custom changes I made for some reason I don't remember.

I personally believe they combined the wrong parts. It seems there is a different drive wheel available were the teeth have larger diameter. The position of the filament guide seems to fit for this larger drive wheel, but not the small that they use. It's chinese manufacturer that doesn't realy know what to do with the part, else they would have noted the difference. They may have combined different E3D part revisions without care. P.S. I have a similar eBay fish and I used the heat gun on the filament guide. Now it works, but its not optimal.

pensandcalls I have just got my refund from Banggood. I will try the original design for this part and try to print it, may be I will be able to use it, otherwise it will be just thrown away!

And i too just got my refund from Aliexpress this morning! If we can print that piece with a curve, it might work.

I'm glad you got your money back.. most people DON'T.

you are a protype western consumer kiddie, ordering from someone you do not know, implifiing a certain quality he has not agreed on. if you are not comfortable with bizz practice buy at a western reseller, ordering in bulk oder sorting out the low standard. its just, that the given product might not fit YOUR expectation, though its not worseless and for sure, nobody commited on high end. you can alway complain at the trading plattforms. but know what. alibaba is chinese too. its just, that you are a stupid consumer trying to match up with comercial wholesale. and to keep yourself in a warm feeling you blame yourself as an ashole using protypic stereotypes. are you american?

Muskoka Mike I am quite sure they were bent from the seller. I have bought again from Banggood the same part and it came exactly bent the same way!

yeah, I'd be tickled pink with .002" out.....

fucking learn metric you primitive fuck

Rex Haslip Thats totally far away from true. I have already removed one of them and replaced it with genuine drv8825 and the one that I remove has nothing but a metal base for heat dissipation!!

Roland Tobiasz Yes I did and have bought orginal parts from proper supplier and replaced them.

nikre This is a hardened rod, so using heat methods would affect the rod so I used hydrolic left and tried my best until I get it down to less than 0.05mm in total and it is hard to do it right because you need good controlled environment to do this.

how much heat? can i do it at home?

nikre No heat just use hydrolic left or hydrolic press and try to bent it in the reverse direction. Search TH-cam about this process.