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Hey friend, given the thought you put into your Y axis upgrade for the A8 Plus, I'm thinking you might be the perfect person to ask for advice on upgrading my A8 Plus's Y axis motion system... I've had my A8 Plus for just over 3 years now, and have replaced the LM8 bearings on Y axis twice, first with the Igus bushings, then again with the original style LM8 steel bearings. The Igus bushings worked great for a few months, but oddly, became too tight on the 8mm rods the more I would print, which is why I went back to the original style bearings. A year later, and I've got the same problem I swapped those bearings out for the first time, which is that my bed skews, tweaking left on forward motion, and right on reverse motion. The skew is subtle at the moment but does present with defects in smaller prints. I'll add that of the 10 other machines I have, the Anycubic I3 Mega is the only other one who's Y axis motor is mounted vertically, and that it's also 2 years older than my A8 Plus, still has it's original LM8 bearings, and its bed does not skew at all moving forward or back. Aside from the Anycubic's bed being so much smaller, the only difference of significance between it's Y axis and that of the A8 Plus is that it uses three of the longer 8mm bearings, as what's used for the Z axis on the A8 Plus, two on the right and one on the left. I'd really like to eliminate the frequent maintenance required on the A8 Plus as it's one of my more heavily used machines. The least expensive upgrade path I've considered is exactly what you've done to your machine here, but I'm contemplating two other more costly upgrades to the Y axis, and would like your opinion... Option 1 would be to add a pair of 20x20 extrusions and linear rails. This option seems all the rage right now, but the rails are quite expensive, and if I have longevity issues, it will be much more costly to maintain over time. Option 2 would be to duplicate the Y axis motion system of the CR-10, adding a single 20x40 extrusion to the center and a home-made carrier for the bed. This option would likely include a 24v CR-10 style heated bed as well for better compatibility of build plates between the A8 Plus and my two CR-10 clones, and because those beds are so much easier to properly tram as the leveling knob positions , unlike those of the A8 Plus, form a perfect square. This option, although more costly initially, would ensure easier and far less costly maintenance moving forward. I think your upgrade would immediately cure the bed skew, and should last much longer than the stock configuration, but how much longer is what I'm concerned with. I would like for whichever path I choose, to last at least a few years before requiring major interventions. If you could share any information on how well your upgrade is performing over time, and whether you might do things differently today, that would be fantastic. Thank you in advance, Steve

do you have a link for the frame please reply back

My Anet A8 is no longer an A8 after all the upgrades it's gone through. It's got a steel frame, linear rails x, y, and a SKR 1.3 board with TMC2209 running klipper. It's no longer an A8, I guess. But this is what I starred with. I changed it to 24 volts, so it heats up in less than 3 min..

Thanks u so much for this video .i have saved so much money for buying this . Now its working again after my madness

Hi Martin, nice video! Thank you. I have a dead esp32 t-dislpay. After watching your video I get to work it again, but usb don't works again as communication way. If I disconnect the external power keeps working with usb (now never boots from USB) but no COM link with computer. Do you know hoy solve it, to get communicate with the board? Thank you in advance!!

Awesome 👏 I still Have the old classic icon Anet A8 with Acrylic frame, now is smooth with controller & touch screen upgrade SKR1.4 Tmc2209 TFT35. Printing well and very Silent. Seeing your video I may upgrade to metal frame with a bigger bed 300mm maybe go further with Klipper😂. Thanks for sharing your transformations 👍 Weldone good job.

www.thingiverse.com/thing:6409397

Man, I’m don’t stop and comment to often. Nor throw out some compliments. I want to say this channel is awesome. I love how your videos a very thorough. The attention to detail is awesome! You don’t just say do this or do that. I did this etc. everything is in layman’s terms. Very well done. Thank you very much!

my esp32 is giving me error "wrong chip id 0x0002" how do I fix this?

Hi!, what diode I need to use?

Wait - That's surely not a regular A8, right? Where's the iconic acrylic frame? What's with the fancy metal one?

Very nice :D your story is very similar to mine, i also bought the printer about a year ago...except my board burned out 1 week after finishing building it and so i upgraded to MKS 1.4, Wasn´t able to get it running and left it for few moths, then i joined 1 year shortened low current electrician studies and i got i working within 4 weeks of starting new school year :D now finished my shortened year and decided to rebuild entire Marlin firmware. and change my 12v heater (and yes i have 24volt power supply :DDD) for 24volt heater, and in future i will probably add bltouch and external mosfet. Am glad that there is more content for Anet a8 Plus, there isn´t much out there. Maybe i´ll make tutorial on conversion from Anet board to MKS 1,4 Just to add another video to mix :DDD Great video, keep it up. Edit: i just read that you took your Anet a8 plus apart and decided to build a Voron...Betrayal !!! :DD Just joking :dD

Good, but this is not a permanent solution

Gracias , tenía problemas con el ESP32. Y no sabía cómo resolverlo

So I have 145 12V LEDs connected with a microphone. Once I linked everything up and connected my 12V 2 amp power supply the 1117C 33 D248 component of the esp32 begins to smoke. Why is that?

hello i have the same 3d printer so if u pleas send me the link of the 3d printed file you did and also the link of the liner bearing or the nober of it coz mine is making a big noise 🙏

I'm facing a problem that when I connect my esp via the usb port the code is working perfectly, but whenever I use an external power supply the code stops and the esp just keep lighting doing nothing. do you have any idea regarding that? Thank you in advance.

Nice! do you have plan for the x and z axes?

You find the problem, but not solve it.

Brooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, YOU were our last option . YOu earned 4 subscribers

Great video. I had a broken ESP32 and after using an external power supply it started working again! Thanks.

my esp 8266 overheating while connecting to usb, pc showing power surge. connecting with external power only works while outputs are connected with esp. any fix?

Thhaaaaaanks!

This was awesome there's not much out there for a a8 plus you should do a main board upgrade I've been wanting to do it all my a8 plus but I'm not very good with this stuff. Or bltouch

very useful, was it the diode you pointed to ?

Very great video! Keep it up!

Legend

Thank you so much for such an informative video. It worked for me.

thanks, just brought back life to my arduino nano with same method

Tkss for the Help! Fantastic... Congratulation

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