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Have you tested the transformer? If not, test that there is 24v (or more) coming out. If you don’t have a multimeter, you can test it using a solenoid. Connect it to the wires coming out of the transformer and it will buzz, verifying voltage.

My pleasure!

All questions are good questions! Any “pop up spray” type sprinkler will work. Some exceptions, so look for Hunter PRO Spray or Rain Bird 1800

@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you! this the question I had in mind, because I wanted to get MP rotators! You earned a subscriber!

@@elielcreado happy sprinkling!

Good points, thanks for sharing. Regarding your leak, that is unfortunate. I'm sorry to hear that. You might consider installing a Master Valve so that at least your mainline supply is only leaking while the system is operating and not leaking 24/7.

Is the date code of your controller after March 2014? If not, the controller is not compatible. Another way to check is to check the color of the old faceplate buttons; they should all be blue. If your controller is compatible, I recommend testing the voltage from the transformer - you should have between 24-27vAC.

@@Andy_Humphrey Nope. The buttons are all green. So I think I need to replace the whole controller?

@@mas3ymd correct. Your controller predates the compatible version. Replace it with a Hydrawise or any controller of your choice! Unfortunately, no need for the faceplate you purchased.

True

I'm not sure I totally understand your question. Are you saying that the pump runs even when everything is off? A booster pump adds another level of complexity as there are a few different ways to wire & control the pump. You may want to contact your sprinkler installer for assistance.

Spot on. Yes, if you are an advanced user and understand the principles of proper scheduling. There are additional factors, such as wind, that this nozzle helps.

Hmm..we don’t have any. Curious; typically a Ribbon Cable isn’t proprietary, so perhaps you can find an equivalent cable online by counting the number of wires within the cable connection. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Thank you!! Is your filter working okay?

​@@Andy_Humphrey Not at this tme. I think I may have damaged the o-ring, or maybe it was just old and streteched out before I messed with it. Unfortunately, I can't just order the o-ring as a replacement part. Have to disassemble it and take another look at it, and maybe order an o-ring from McMaster-Carr or something?

No, the programming is saved within the non-volatile memory. You will only need to reset the time & date.

This works with PVC, CPVC, PEX, Copper L, and Copper M pipes. For 200mm (4”) you may need to cut the pipe or a least drill and insert an impeller style flow sensor.

Absolutely. Easy DIY project. I recommend taking a picture of the wiring inside your existing Pro-C, then wire it back exactly the same way with your new controller. Done!

@@Andy_Humphrey Thanks for the reply Andy!

If you’ve tried everything and can’t get it to connect, and it’s older than about 5ths, it’s likely the battery.

Great point. Flow could be, or is, restricted. my guess is that the restriction is marginal and is less than the nozzle size, making it inconsequential. Could be something EF might pursue in the testing lab. Thanks for sharing!

I have not tried this, but from a power perspective, this unit should operate 2 DC-latching solenoids at the same time. I say this because the controller is capable of operating both a Master Valve + Zone Valve, which is the same as operating 2 zone valves. To rule out any wiring issues, I would remove 2 solenoids, wire them together, and then wire them directly in zone 1 at the controller. DC Solenoids have polarity, so be sure to wire red/red to Zone 1, and black/black to the COM. Best of luck and let us know how it works out for you. -Andy

@@Andy_Humphrey - I’ve attempted connection both wires at the solenoids together as well as attaching two wires if the same solenoid together at the controller and still can’t two control valves to come on at the same time together. I don’t want to have to excavate it the valve box and reconstruct the irrigation lines together to accomplish this. There has to be a way? Any additional thoughts would be appreciated. (I’m using an XC Hybrid controller) Thanks.

What is the reason for needing 2 to operate simultaneously?

@@Andy_Humphrey - I currently have 12 sprinkler heads watering my lawn, being operated by 4 separate valves which takes forever. (e.i. three sprinkler heads on each valve station.) I want to operate 6 sprinklers at once operated by only 2 valves at the same time and the other 6 heads operated by 2 valves also at a different time. Having four separate valve stations takes forever to water everything. Water volume and pressure isn’t an issue at 70 psi.

It’s possible the output power from the terminal is different (not enough) to engage 2 latching solenoids, vs an AC powered controller. Is there a specific reason you need a battery controller? Another option would be to switch all (or 2) of the valves to something like the Hunter NODE, and program them concurrently. If you have a spare wire you could add another controller, and program it concurrent with the other controller. With 4 zones you have options 👍

Thanks Bruce. Have fun capping!

Cool, thanks! Happy sprinkling

Example::::::::Start Time 1: 10:00am, End Time 1: 10:30am is a 30min cycle.

Yes! This is a great question. Your programming will move to the cloud. Then you’ll always have a back up, so if something happens to the controller, and you replace it with a new one, you’ll still have the programming as well.

@@Andy_Humphrey thank you. I finally decided to use the Wand with my X2 and I’m just learning how to program it. Your video helped tremendously. Would hate to lose the set up as it is perfect.

Awesome. Have fun with it!

thank you. If i missed anything let me know, happy to help!

Thank you for your kind words. Every valve has a psi friction table available. This is typically found on the product Cut Sheet or Specification Sheet. This link is an example; scroll to the bottom of page 2 to see the friction loss. -Andy www.hunterindustries.com/sites/default/files/CA-Cutsheet-1-Inch-PGV-and-PGV-Jar-Top-US.pdf

@@Andy_Humphrey great, thanks! I guess I should have thought of that myself.

Haha, now you know. Pass it on 🤙

Nailed it! Yes, there is Wi-Fi integrated into the face panel. Thank you for pointing it out; guess I forgot to mention that. Happy sprinkling!

Nice work. Wire connectors are fine. Depending on your model controller, or year (if not this exact model) it could different. Perhaps the transformer was replaced at some point in the past.

Hi Matt. Controllers require an external rain sensor. I recommend using a wireless option to place it in an optimal location. Here is a link, this rain sensor has the 'Direct Response' feature, which will shut down the controller immediately rather than wait for a specific amount of rain to accumulate: sprinklersupplystore.com/products/hunter-wrclik-wireless-rain-sensor

Hi Robert. Yes, you could. However, the kit is not a direct replacement because the service fitting on the 5000 is 3/4”, and the Retro Kit uses a 1/2” fitting. With this in mind, you might consider feeding the drip by removing the sprinkler and connecting directly to the 3/4” service fitting.

Hello. I wish it was a simple answer; however, this is complex and requires additional information about your water source, existing pressure, and how you plan to irrigate the rice crop. If you are interested in technical design assistance, please book a consulting call using the link in the description.

Hahahaha. Good chance it is gone! You can remove the receiver and place a jumper wire between the terminals (a paper clip will work) if you're tired of using the bypass mode. Sounds like a good time to replace it!

This depends on who you ask. My observation is that Hunter MP Rotators have the majority of positive responses from professional irrigation contractors. Hunter's technology was acquired from Walla Walla Sprinkler Co (NelsonIrrigation.com), who invented the technology.

Yes, that is possible. You will likely need to add zones (to 4+) to accommodate the increased flow rate of the rotor heads, so I wouldn’t recommend switching them out, 1 for 1. Partial redesign may be required.

@@Andy_Humphrey ty for your generosity of knowledge

Thank you, Scott! Standing by to assist if you need any support with your system.

Yes, just remember configure (assign) the Pump Start to all programs. Here is a screen capture: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/43zh11j0eomxgk6snscoq/Hunter-X2-Pump-Start.png?rlkey=pidn0jjv03j7ucacfsqpdal1l&dl=0

There should be an o-ring that is factory installed by Rain Bird. Sometimes they fall out, or are loose in the shipping bag. Assuming you are aware, just double checking. Thanks for sharing.

@@Andy_Humphrey thanks! Yes I do have the oring like you showed in the video. But water still leaks.

@@elexhobby Interesting. Have you tried other sprinkler bodies? Curious if this is related to only 1 sprinkler, or if it is a pattern across all of your 1800 model sprinklers.

Should be fine. Remember to consider that everything will operate at the same time, so give some thought to the precipitation or flow rate of the drip emitters, vs, any turf grass you have remaining in that zone. If that’s not an issue, hydraulically, you should be fine.

It’s ridiculous

You are very kind, Thank you. Good luck with your garden adventure!

Haha

You are correct. If capping rotor, or temporarily turning it off, you might look at switching to a rotor with a built-in shut off, like the Hunter I-20, or K-Rain SuperPro. You’d still need to dig it up to replace, but then you’d have the on/off control.

@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the quick response and for these alternative solutions. I see the the K-Rain K2 Pro also has on / off control.

@@JohnBraatz-gx1kc I believe the K2 is an older model (could be wrong). You might also look at the RPS75i (must be the 'i' model). This sprinkler also has a built-in shutoff. th-cam.com/video/6cnlVdGMLdo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sh7A6zPoVkEzqYqQ - www.krain.com/rps75i-rotor-with-intelligent-flow-controltm