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@@Titanous-2019 Thank you. I hope to completely automate the process in the future.

@@willamettevalleyAFtrains Thank you. I wasn’t entirely sure I could pull it off, but it turned out really well.

Well, I have to say Lionel puts out some good looking stuff. But I would counter with the ingenuity of running American Flyer on AC power on realistic two-rail track instead of rounded three rail was quite the innovation. 😉

The roundhouse is a commercial kit that dates back to the 1990’s. I’ve looked at several old S Gaugian magazines and have found similar ones, but not the same one. I’m not sure who makes them, but it could be scratchbuilt. The interior is a basswood frame with plastic brick sheets. The windows and stacks are molded plastic. There is also a workshop on the back made with the same materials. I think you could get these through the old S catalog put out by Heimburger publications, but That is long gone I’m afraid. You might check with the folks at the NASG if you’re familiar with them.

@@RichardTrotter1961 Thank you for replying. I am a member of the NASG and also subscribe to the S-Trains email list. I will inquire to both.

Personally I would recommend a larger wattage transformer meant for G -scale trains for better operation especially outdoors, but yeah even a small transformer will work in limited circumstances. Let those Flyers fly through the garden!

The engine is interesting in that it has the silver metal wheels instead of the brass ones, probably installed during the Korea War time. The drivers have been polished as well so it will slip occasionally with the plastic passenger cars and can’t pull the three metal flat cars on the freight train. It is a definite sweetheart of an engine.

I need to get that one. 👍

I believe Lionel remade the talking station with an electronic version.

I actually made an Arduino based board that used a sound card and had 10 different MP3's on it that were ripped from the records It also had the NOMA recordings. It stopped and started the train like the mechanical version. I never mounted it in a station though.

@@gwesco I thought I saw a NOMA electronic replacement at York several years ago. Does anyone sell this today?

My friend models in HOn3 or HO narrow gauge.

Thanks for adding the info. It makes sense the metal would get magnetized over time. Worst thing would probably be a sticky reverse unit which is mostly the case anyhow. You’re also right about the standard HO power pack in regards to amps. I have a two stage transformer designed for g-scale trains that might last longer. It’s very similar to the original Flyer rectiformer in size and power in garden scale mode. I’ve used both the Flyer rectifiers and simple bridge rectifiers as well and they all work great for converting AC to DC. The important thing is to have a sufficient amp rating on the rectifier. Original Flyer components were rated for 4 amps. Thank you!

That was my first transformer for my Christmas train when I was a kid. I still have it and use it quite often. 12b’s are a hidden gem. Thanks!

I used one in the Fun with Fiber Pin videos #3 thru #6 right before this one. It works slick. I tried to do some reverse wiring though and successfully burned up the resistor in the lock out eliminator. That’s why you see fewer wires and add-ons in this video. Sometimes it’s better to just keep it simple, especially on a small layout like this. Still slot of fun though!

​@@HallofScienceWest I know you used the lockout eliminator in the previous videos, I watched them all. I thought you stated that you locked the reverse units of both locomotives in the two train & semaphore video. When I used the semaphore with two trains on the same track, because I used the lock out eliminator I left the reverse units unlocked and the stopped train always started in the direction it was going previously. I have, but one fiber pin, but purchased several bags of new unused K-Line plastic pins because I haven't seen many of the fiber pins out there and available. Hopefully you can replace the resistor to put the lockout eliminator back into service.

@@-MAILMAN Yeah, I’ll get it operational again. I did really like how it worked for being able to protect switching on the siding. For this demo I went back to basics though. The manual recommends locking the reverse units on the trains and it does allow for some crash prevention between longer trains on the little layout. I had some issues with the trains setting up these shots using the lockout eliminator so I discontinued using it for simplicity. I would highly recommend using one as you’ve suggested though. Thanks!

The 290 and the 5114 set were part of my Uncle’s collection and the work cars were from a collection I purchased from the estate of the late Phil Huon. The 290 was excellently restored by my uncle, but the 5114 languished in his basement unopened for years and years. Such beautiful trains should be taken out, shared, and enjoyed once in a while. That’s my goal with my videos. I enjoy watching your videos with the same thing in mind. 👍

I’ll incorporate the mail car into my next video with the talking station. Thanks for the request. More fun!

It’s amazing how much stuff you can pack into a small layout. Nothings fool proof, but when it works right it sure is cool. 👍

That’s a great story. It’s amazing all of the different stores that would sell trains at Christmas. My uncle picked up a no. 98 display layout from a tire store in Pueblo, CO. It’s fun to checkout the mailing labels on all of these boxes sets to see where they were sent and who bought them. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! I’ve heard a lot about the Gargraves pins and need to order some. I’m out of Flyer ones! Lol!

The gaps are bad for electrical continuity as well. Especially on sections with the fiber pins. I’m finding that the metal pins need to be bent slightly to make good contact between the controlled and non-controlled sections. In a subsequent video someone recommends trying a drop of solder on the gap and then filing it smooth. It would improve continuity, keep the gaps clean, and as you mentioned, keep wheels from getting scratched. I would do that on a permanent layout, but for this temporary one I’m not too worried about it.

@@HallofScienceWest Hi! another solution is to file with a STONE file (not so fast in filing away material) the sharp end of the rails. BUT as you might know LOTS of work... I have a Hudson Set from Sept. 1954(?) first set with the knuckle couplers. Love it much. Was my self made present to me after I graduaded/finished my clock and watchmaking school (3 years full time) in Hamburg, Germany. I', sad that Märklin didn't put these Smoke-Units with chuff in thier trains AND that they changed to H0 - I like best the O gauge, but S gauge is also very fine. NO silly 3rd rail xD

Not too familiar with Lionel, but Flyer did make several different boxcars and stock cars with the colorful road names in the late 50’s. They are popular for collectors. There are some more rare than others making them extra desirable for collectors. These usually are associated with Flyers change from a 3 digit numbering system to a 5 digit numbering system in 1957. 5 digit cars found in 3 digit boxes seem to be worth more. Some cars were printed with 5 digits and then not produced after late 1957 so there are very few of them. I’m sure Lionel has similar nuances for their 6464 cars.

I’ve been following that series and check out your channel often for repairs. Norbert Doerry in his online book about speed and power for AF trains mentions for can motors you need two 10 ohm resistors in series (20 ohms) or two 50 ohm resistors in parallel (25 ohms) to get a can to stop. I tried it with some low amp resistors and it worked but they got real hot. A 10 amp resistor would probably be good.

@@HallofScienceWest just an fyi 343 0-8-0 switcher (1957-58) has a 1/2 inch armature/field motor, the one I rebuilt has impressive low voltage creep or scaled speed. Will Gilberts lock out eliminator hold it, be interesting to test. Thanks for your reply.

I have to admit I don’t worry about it too much for amount of operating I do. That said, I think a good polishing of the metal track pin before assembly would help and then subsequent scrubbing or polishing may have to be done with a small wire brush or Dremel tool wire wheel to clean out the collected carbon and wheel gunk that accumulates in the gap. Maybe even filing the two rails flush on the top and sides. Austin’s American Flyer channel talks about some CRC conductive electronic cleaner that might be worth a try. CRC 2-26 I believe. Thanks for your question!

@@HallofScienceWest thanks for reply. Suggestion, clean track, pin, and receptacle on adjacent rail, best to use 100% pure mineral spirits., NOT CRC 2-26. Check out Fugate’s 2019 Dielectric Constant rating chart for polar vs non-polar solvents, 100% pure mineral spirits ranks very high whereas CRC 2-16 is mid range with a much higher ranking due to its polarity. I recommend using CRC 2-26 in the right places like reverse units and switch’s, BUT NEVER use CRC 2-26 on the railhead. It is a lubricant, it cleans, and it improves electrical properties that no one to my knowledge has tested its impact on pull-mor tires, and it leaves a residue. The final step is adjust rails for proper spacing, a drop of solder on the pin, then file down solder to match rail height eliminating or reducing potential of higher micro arcing in the gap and the accumulation of metal oxides a.k.a. black carbon burn. Thoughts?

@@davesaftrains4368 That’s a very interesting observation about electronic cleaner on pullmor tires. Whereas mineral spirits are an old standby that cleans the track with no residue remaining. As far as soldering the rails I have to say that would be a great idea for a permanent layout, but not really necessary or practical for a temporary layout. If you look at close up shots of the New York Hall of Science 3rd layout you can see where the display workers soldered the rails together. I’m sure it improved reliability and eased cleaning on that big layout that ran daily for four years. However, you have an interesting idea with putting a drop of solder on the metal pin and filing. I think if you made a metal “t-shaped” version of the fiber pin for the opposite rail it would gap both sides equally. It’s not something I care to do with my temporary displays for ease of disassembly, but someday I’ll have that dream layout and solder will find its way into the gaps. Thanks for the cool idea.

I think no matter what you do there is always an element of error that creeps in with operating these trains, but trying your mitigate that is what keeps it interesting, at least to a point. In fact, my switch slipped out of two-train operation the other day and it took me by surprise when old 290 barreled right through the switch and derailed. The words “What the…” are still echoing in the Hall of Science (my garage) Lol! I think the realism Flyer put into their early trains is truly amazing and went beyond just selling toys. I’m finding there are limitations though and will explore those in upcoming videos. I’m glad you enjoyed the vid. RT

Those are great solutions. Thanks for sharing. I’m not sure I’ll run a feeder, but the spring I’ll give it a try. Thanks!

Bending the drawbar and tender rivet bracket to create some tension where they mate should help with continuity from engine to tender too. ​@HallofScienceWest

I had my engine locked in forward before but when operating reverse unit found the unwanted change of directions with no cars attached despite previous mods. But when towing 5 freight cars no problems. Then placed a steel washer over the drawbar rivet which then rests on the drawbar itself. Ran it with no cars around a figure 8 with 4 AF switches at slow speed and had no problems in either direction. The added weight or rather additional surfaces may have created more pathways for current to flow and so no more sparking. I had an O ring between the rivet head and washer but it fell off. Smaller O ring or thinner washer may be needed as the washer fell off going over a 725 cross over on the 20 th pass.

Checking into Gargraves is a great idea. I have hopes of using their stainless track outdoors sometime in the future

They are definitely a little “coffee-grinder” as I like to call this style of motor and gearing. The can motor conversion available from Portlines and S-n-S Trains helps the older Flyer Baldwin, but the Lionel American Flyer version is quite spectacular with the addition of their Flyerchief and Railsounds system.

Agreed with regards to Port lines solutions . I’ve used their products for years. I had considered one of their half-speed motors for the Baldwin but was concerned there were too many other issues so that the new motor was throwing good money after bad…. For now, I remain pleased with the Lionel AF FlyerChief Baldwin. I hope it will be compatible with the upcoming BASE3 system! It teases it will turn the FlyerChief engines into nearly a LEGACY type engine with CAB3 operations. Only time will tell…

I have too much invested in making the vintage stuff run, but it’s nice Lionel is making an effort to produce S -Scale Flyer with modern components.

@@HallofScienceWest Actually, Lionel is only making a token effort. I’ve only purchased ONE “new” engine ever. Everything else has been old store stock, long out of warranty, many “owned but never run, or outright used and/or abused. I’d owned my “transition” Southern Pacific Daylight set for for over 20 years, but never even taken it out of the boxes for inspection. The Same goes for my 35 year-old UP Pony Express ALCO passenger set. Both of those sets are “pure” Gilbert with no Lionel enhancements other than Lionel RailSounds ALCO B units. The RailSounds B units are very nice AND provide horns for those two trains. About 5 years ago, I decided I was going to use them, or sell them. I finally got to the Southern Pacific Daylight and UP Pony Express ALCO sets this past Christmas season. It was so exciting to see them operate. You can see the SP Daylight on my TH-cam channel. Tip of the day: I find altered sine-wave Lionel transformers make better smoke output than AF transformers. The bonus is they have built-in horn/whistle/bell activation for the Lionel AF engines and B-units. If you’re interested, I’ll research which Lionel transformers are of that design. Keep up the good work on the Gilbert trains! Well cared for, they can serve MANY generations of users.

@@Tool-Meister Thank you. It’s all about having fun with those trains old or new. 👍

That’s a great idea. 12B’s are neat transformers for that sort of thing. When my turntable layout was still running I used a rectifier from Radio Shack to power the DC motor on the turntable from one side of a 12B. 👍

Yes, it was inevitable. I’m glad you watched until the end. I shouldn’t be laughing about it, but I was having too much fun to cuss. lol!

It’s handy for all sorts of operations. On my Badlands layout I use one like this to turn the automatic whistle and two train operations on and off and I use the push button to activate the whistle in the tunnel manually. Have fun!

@SOU6900 That is a no. 15 electronic rectifier as Gilbert called it. During the early post-war years American Flyer experimented with making DC powered locomotives in S-scale. This is just an early primitive way of converting AC to DC power. American Flyer also attempted to make a DC transformer which they called an electronic rectiformer. They had issues generating the wattage for the larger S-scale trains using tube technology available at the time. I cover it a little bit in my TH-cam video on unboxing a like new set no. 5009. Thanks for your question.

I’m just having fun messing with all these cool gadgets Gilbert came up with for their trains. I’m hoping people find it useful for their own Flyer fun. 👍

I’m sorry, but I don’t know enough about three rail switches to figure out if they have some sort of power routing feature like two-rail Flyer. I think you can use fiber pins though. I will try to look it up and will post here if I find something. Sound ok?

Try this TH-cam channel , Toy Train Tips and Tricks, for some useful three rail switch and fiber pin related control options for three rail track. th-cam.com/video/oFtRtSZElvE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IsU47aKkanl314ac

You might be able to try blocks; if omen blpclnisnoccupied, the one behind it or in front of it will shut off

@@AstroKnight118 Thanks for your advice, will do.

@@HallofScienceWest I saw something like that on "Tip and Tricks", I`ll check it out, thanks much.