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Totally missed that step that was important!!!

I don't have a separate video explaining it, but its nothing fancy, just two rings which I made on the lathe. The hole of the rings which you can see at (4.46) are slightly smaller than the diameter of the sphere. I then use long screws to clamp the sphere in between these rings and measure to ensure an even clamping pressure. After the first eye socket is turned I rotated the sphere a little less than 90 degrees and turned the other eye socket. Thanks a lot, hope that helps. Cheers

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for watching!

The flat tools would be easy, like sharpening a knife. I'm not aware of anything for the rounded tools.

Sharpening the tools involves 2 different processes: first we shape the tool point according to our needs establishing the sharpening angle, how much the wings are back from the point and so on, this phase can involve removing a lot of material and is better done with some power tool, usually it is done only once as you buy the tool or very few times if gaining experience you want to improve the edge shape, then we maintain the edge as it gets duller and here the goal is to have an edge that is sharp removing the minimum possible amount of steel to extend the life of the tool. If you don't have a bench top grinder to shape the tool you can use a sanding pad coated with sand paper mounted on the lathe, shaping free hand is not an easy task, needs experience, but as the sanding pad is flat is easier to do it compared to the grinding wheel that is curved, you can also create some jig that functionally is similar to the one shown here, but works with that setup. Once you have shaped the tool you can maintain it with a stone or diamond coated card, it is much easier to do it with the gouge stationary, the end of the handle resting on your hip, your off hand near the part you sharpen and the stone or diamond card controlled by the main hand. You can also use the sanding pad coated with a finer grit paper to maintain the edge, but it is annoying to dismount the chuck with the piece you are turning and mount the sanding pad each time you feel the edge needs to be sharpened and as it is wise to sharpen between the roughing of the piece and the final cuts to have the best possible out of the gouge surface minimizing sanding I personally don't suggerst it. An ordinary file can not be used on hardened steel and even less on HSS steel that is used for many modern tools, so use a diamond coated card, best option, or a stone, the grit can be anything between 600 and 1000, I would not use a much coarser one unless you have to remove some chipping in the edge or something finer, it is very important that you òrefresh the edge frequently, as soon as you feel that the edge begin to degrade as doing so only few seconds with the card or stone will suffice, while if the edge gets very dull you need much more time, sharpening without power tools the more often you sharpen the less time you spend sharpening. I hope it helps (but is possible to buy a bench top grinder and a decent grinding wheel for cheap, you don't have to spend the money a tormek system or a diamond coated grinding wheel or a professional grade grinder cost).

Thanks a bunch!

I'm 100% sure, but it could be.

Thank you for watching

Thank you! Cheers!

Hi, it’s a wax product called Briwax. www.amazon.com/Briwax-Furniture-Wax-Polish-Clear-1/dp/B001E4AQHS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=briwax&qid=1705609301&sr=8-1

Thanks!

Thank you 🙂

Thank you, go for it!

Thank you

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you!

Haha. Forbidden cereal 😂

@@TurnedOutGood .... high fiber diet?

@@klatt4057 woodn't you know it 😉

@TurnedOutGood ..... "woodn't"...... very cleaver?

@@klatt4057 🤣

🤣 its the best source of fibre

Thank you! Cheers!

Hi Gert, if you are wanting to store spirits in it, I would avoid using any glue. You will need to use interference fits to avoid any leaks, but things such as charring the inside will help to seal it. Traditional barrels are held together using the metal bands, as mine is a decorative piece I just used glue. I found this video to be quite interesting on how barrels are made. th-cam.com/video/kaXvFw8ve_I/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.

Hi there, overall lighting/camera did play a part but it was a string of leds similar to this www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOITH9M?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_F79PA2P05RPKJVHFG37W

I use a bench grinder to sharpen my lathe chisels🙂

It’s so satisfying! Thanks for watching 😃

Thanks for watching👍

Haha thanks, no problem 👍😎

Aah right, there are 30 staves (pieces) which makes it 6° (360°/30/2=6°). Stave size (before turning): W:16mm, H:30mm, L:200mm. Cheers.

Hi there, which vertical pieces are you referring to? Can you share the time stamp

You're welcome 😁

As always, thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I'm glad you get enjoyment out of these videos😊. I do think some of the sharpening jigs can be quite expensive for what they are, which is why a DIY option is worth trying. Haha despite appearances my freehand sharpening is not the best. I get by, but pretty sure I take off too much material each time😅. When I tried with the jig I was impressed at how easy it was to use and how good the final result was.

@TurnedOutGood .... I understand. I didn't want to pay for a high-priced jig either. But I love the simple jig you made, and I'm sure there are plenty of others who would like it also. Keep up the good work. 👍

Mine is a little over engineered as the intention was to allow different sanding angles, but I never have, I always leave it flat. All you really need is a flat surface mounted to a shaft, which can then be put into the tool rest. I've made a quick video for you to see🙂th-cam.com/users/shortsSiDvf63KTA0

@TurnedOutGood ..... I don't think that is over- engineered. I think that is just right. You may have used it only in the flat position so far, but some day you may really need to sand something that can only be done at an angle (maybe because of the odd shape or size), and you will be glad for your over-engineering. Thanks for video.

You're welcome!