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Thank you! I just ordered a shorter steering shaft and the U joints/extras I will need to bring the pinion closer to the control arms and break the straight line steering shaft into an angle. I will keep the bump steer in mind when I am ordering my tie rods and getting closer to that point. I really appreciate the help from everyone.

That purple Steering Bearing/Heim came with the collapsable steering column I ordered from Speedway Motors. It has some room for play and it seemed to work great on the kart for what its intended purpose is. The collapsable shaft size is 1 1/8" but I haven't found a Heim that size (only 1 1/4), but I ordered a 3/4" straight shaft to angle the steering shaft down 45degrees or so at the end of the collapsable column. Speedway also sells 3/4" heims that I will use to stabilize that 3/4" straight shaft on that downward angle where it will meet the pinion.

I appreciate the feedback! So the steering column I got was too long, and I’m ordering a shorter steering rack and breaking it 45 degrees or so so that I can bring the pinion back more. I didn’t know the tie rods needed to be at pivot point but it’s a good thing I’m already redoing it. This was just a Mach up. But the pedals say they are 12” tall and I had 12” where my feet were, but it immediately dropped to like 7” as I move towards the front of the kart because the angle that the column was at was too sharp. With the new setup I’ll basically 45 deg cut down to the floorboard of the kart so the pinion will be closer to the control arms. Thank you for that info tho i will definitely take it into consideration when im replacing the position of everything!

@Yamahoss yea look at some of KJ RACING CART BUILDS. he has nice idea of movable peddles. Could be a great idea to help out instead of recruiting the cart up.

Thanks for watching!

Stop lying you watched it so you could see him bounce up and down on that thing

@@josiah1994 😂😂😂

I built my own rear hubs, and I’m using Miata front spindles, there’s a video about it on my channel check it out!

@@Yamahoss im making my own f4/f1000 inspired coffin on wheels from kart parts and ill post on it soon. its mostly from cool guys like you who provide inspiration and motivation as constructors. keep it up man

Thank you bro! I don’t think there’s an organization yet, it’s still pretty new in the USA but there I’ll be soon 👀

I actually don’t have the plans available for the public because there are many modifications that I had to make to the design after the fact to make it work. KJ Raycing has similar plans for sale and they are much more reliable. One day I will have plans available but I don’t right now.

It’s off of my 2013 r1 so that’s Gen3 if I’m not mistaken it might be Gen2 not totally sure tbh but a zx10r is going to be sickkk af dude!

Thank you bro! They are 15x8 Vors wheels I’m not sure the exact model I just bought the ones I thought would look good with this kart lol

Me too broh😎

Thank you so much!! Let me know if you have any questions when you get started!

Invest in a respirator and proper PPE. Trust me, you don't want metal in your eyes or lungs.

Hahahah I wouldn’t doubt it if I’m on the spectrum as well 😂 thank you man, I will!

I designed my own frame in Bend Tech Pro and the rest I’m kind of just winging it lol

@Yamahoss thanks for responding as I have bend tech myself and I've got 3 sets of plans I'm working on now to soon sell on my site when I'm ready to go all in. Keep it up

@@cbowenjr72 thank you! I should have another video going up soon. Thats awesome though I hope to see your karts in action one day!

@Yamahoss well ive built my own design on 2 custom drift trikes and a custom build for racers from dirt tracks to drag racing. So yes I hope soon and start my TH-cam so guys can follow along to build my plans. Look forward to the vid

Thank you for the heads up! I am actually working on that right now so I haven’t gotten to that point yet. Really appreciate the tip. I’ll let you know how I get it to work

I am waiting on some heims to be delivered and will send you video of what I may do to try to resolve the issue@@Yamahoss

How do you mean? What shape are your trailing arms? I bit the bullet last weekend and completely rebuilt my back right trailing arm because it was crooked compared to the left from warping :( it might be best to just rebuild it rather than cutting into the metal and compromising the structural integrity of the trailing arm itself

@@Yamahoss but even after rebuilding it the two points of ourV shaped trailing arm doesn't fit into the knuckle because they get shrink/ wrap due tk welding

@@Yamahoss will using a jig help out ? Right now we are doing it freely...

@@amirathod2274 I was just about to ask if you are using a Jig! I actually just had to do all of that for my front control arms, so my next video will be about that. If you want to message me on Instagram in the meantime, you can send me pictures and I can help you in more detail on there since we can direct message🤘🏼

@@amirathod2274 a Jig definitely makes or breaks it though (I found out the hard way also). I was able to tack weld the straight pieces that hold the heims, to the jig and then weld the connecting arms while the straight pieces stayed in one place.

I actually went back and grinded down all these welds and re welded them. Not too happy with how they turned out the second time but it’s all a learning process. I appreciate the tip!

I appreciate the tip! Thank you for your support🙏🏻

Lmao if I had something to show for every time I redid something I’d have 2 karts already 😂 thank you for the support bro! I hope to see yours one day!🤘🏼

I need you to be more specific broski

@@Yamahoss sorry left out the word medal on accident. I was wondering how many feet of medal you used for the total build and where you sourced it👍

@@brandongasper573 no worries haha, I would need to go back and look to see exactly how much metal it was, but it also depends on your build and the bends. You will have excess because when you buy say 6 6’ tubes, some of those cuts will leave you with like 4” and 2.5” of extra after you cut all you can off one of those 6’ tubes. And those little bits add up so you need to take that into account when you’re buying metal. I think I ordered 10 or 12 - 12’ tubes from OnlineMetals.com or MetalsDepot.com it just depends where it’s cheapest.

If I damage this sprocket I will need to replace it. I’m already designing a drive train with a limited slip differential so that I can maybe race it and I’ll be able to mount a different sprocket.

Sorry bro no plans to share right now, it’s a constant work in progress

Thank you Owen! I’m about to start working on it again, I just got all moved. I am using 1.5” OD x 0.12” Wall, DOM Carbon Steel tubing for the frame and 1” OD x 0.12” Wall, DOM Carbon Steel Tubing for my control arms. Keep me posted if you start a build!

Not right now, there are similar builds other people like KJ Raycing put out but I don’t have any available yet.

It’s a Woodward Fab Rotary Bend Notcher with a Hydraulic Ram attached to it with a Swag off-road connector for the Hydraulic ram. I have it hooked up to my air compressor.

So then how am I supposed to fix what I’ve already welded?

Grind, grind, and when you think you’re done, grind some more! Also there’s no need to weave your welds, just focus your puddle directly into the joint itself, then your welds will have better penetration, and look cleaner. Maybe also slow down your wire feed about a half notch. Another good tip is do NOT weld everything completely until you have everything put together. Tack weld the entire cart, that way if you need/want to make a change, it’s simple to just cut a tack weld. You may think it’s extra steps to have to completely disassemble after it’s completely built, but I assume that you will take it apart to paint it anyway!?!?

I appreciate your help! I grinded everything and re welded it all. I’ve been tacking from then on out but man that grinding was a pain in the butt lol. Thank your for the tip

I’m using parts from a Miata! So the CV Axle and hubs are Miata and the carriers I designed and sent .dxf files to SendCutSend and built it from there!

@@Yamahoss do you know of any other cv’s that may work? I’m in Australia and miata’s aren’t as common here then they are in the states haha.

@@EngineeredToDesign I could definitely do some research later and find out, but I know that miata CV’s have some of the best plunge ranges. I’m not sure if what I find will help but I can try!

@@Yamahoss definitely thank you, I have used rav 4 rear cv’s out of a 1998 but the wheel hub isn’t flat on the back like a miata is to be re drilled..

@@EngineeredToDesign if you can’t find a CV Axle that has a flat back like the Miata, you can always buy a spline Hub and put it on the end of your CV Axle and then weld the spline Hub to a drivetrain template or a flat piece you can attach or weld to the piece that connects it to the drivetrain. Just make sure your spline count is the same on both your Axle and the Hub. I haven’t found much that resembles the Miata CV but that would be my alternative solution.

Thanks bro! I actually designed this myself in Bend Tech Pro, but I used the Sierra Car and KJ Raying’s Karts as a reference to design this based on my size and stuff