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Perfect video. No fluff, then a b.s. video. Straight to work, preciate ya. 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿

Rob don’t know if you still monitor old videos but this tutorial just saved me a big headache super detailed and answered all my questions and doubts I had!! Better yet I’m doing it on an obs as well Thanks again Rob!!

Stude Dude!

Sweet, thanks, very helpful. Can you ground the relay to a bolt on the body somewhere, instead of to the battery negative?

Excellent installation! One of the only TH-cam fuse block installation videos that is done right. Many others who have no fuse protection between the battery and the relay. Many who have grossly undersized the wiring to the relay. Many who have used standard 40 Amp, non-continuous duty relays feeding to a 120 Amp fuse block. Many with no loom wire protection or grommets through panels. This installation will provide you with years of trouble free performance.

Thays cool bo

Wheel barrow wheel bearing.

Wow, you sure have been busy!! Can't wait to see the Stude down on the ground.

Exactly what I was looking for. From your triggered fuse block you can feed a lot of accessoires without having each acc triggered by its own relay, of course their switches need to have enough amps to feed the acc. I want to rewire a Ford 1973 and need a triggered fuse block for head-tail-fog lights, turn signals, power windows, radio, heater, electrical fan and so. I guess this will with such triggered fuse box

Will the 10A fuse you use blow when you add more accessories to the power block? Or is it just being used as a tap to just trigger the relay with 12V to close the circuit?

Im confused as to how you spliced into the trigger wire, you ran it off the relay in to the fire wall with the big power wire? And then you removed the injector wire from the your circuit breaker block under the dash? And tied it all in? But it wouldn’t make sense because at the end you are still getting 12v on the fuse so it is still hooked up. Help me out because this is exactly what im trying to do as well. Thanks

Excellent video thanks - I really needed this to add an auxiliary fuse box to my 1958 classic Morris Minor car to run additional equipment.. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Good video, thanks

Just curious what size gauge wire did you use for the ground?

Nice and easy! Thanks very much!

Wish there were links

SHESHH😤! This is straight music to the ears 🔥🔊! Love the build bro! Keep the content coming !

What did you do with the manual fuel pump. Did you remove it?

thanks helpful

Throw that noisy fuel pump in the trash.

….nice looking & sounding truck, what size torque converter did ya go with? 🤔

Very nice, simple and clear video. Shows exactly what I am attempting to do in my vehicle. Thank you!!

Sharpies will also cure wrench marks

I ran -6 to my pump and -4 for return with a Holley blue pump. Cured my vapor lock issues 440 mopar mill.

IMO. The best way to cut stainless braided is wrapping a zip tie around the line and cut through it parallel and straight through the clamp area as a guide the gently peel tie off and a perfect straight cut and no frays. I get them first time every time that way…my .02

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did You Change out The Distributor Gear For The Mutha Thumpr Cam?? I am Installing That Roller c am in My '74 Vette Now,, Just Found You and Its A Great Channel

Great vid. Thanks

You got a guess on numbers? Been thinking of getting a pair of those super 23 heads

I've had 3 Edelbrock fuel pumps fail on me ,off the shelf from the parts store , i might use Holly next time . Great video thx for sharing ✌

Thank you for sharing! I like seeing the mega fuse on the #4 feed, and the fire wall grommet. inspirational. '66 Jeep truck total re-wire

Did you say 20 percent of 120 is 96?

Nicely done - looks really good

What kind of fittings did you use? Can you put the description in the comment? Thank you for your video, Ima do this to my truck!

Hey Rob, question about the bendix. When I took mine apart, the bendix was stuck in a collapsed position so it wasn't engaging. You couldn't see the pin hole because the gear part of the drive was covering it. I have freed the bendix up but it doesn't move very far in and out. When I watched your video where you showed the bendix moving at around 8:35, yours doesn't move much either. I haven't reassembled mine because I assumed the bendix needed to go back to the collapsed position when disengaged. Does the bendix only move that small amount and is that enough for it to engage / disengage the flywheel?

Thanks dude, what I was looking for.

Good job gave me knowledge 2 copy and construct my own

Great timing on posting this video. I disassembled the Prestolite starter from my 63 Studebaker GTHawk 289 V8 yesterday. The starter was rebuilt 30 years ago so it is in great condition. Like your starter, the only real problem is a sticky Bendix drive that doesn’t slide back and forth to engage and disengage the ring gear on the flywheel. Since this Bendix drive still appears basically new, I am going to clean and lubricate it rather than replace it. The gears on both the ring gear and Bendix drive look great. Hope your video inspires others to repair their starters like the video did for me.

Hi Rob, great job on the starter! A lot of folks just replace parts, but like you did a good cleaning and lube will most of the time work wonders. What shop is doing your machine work on the engine? Are you planning to come to the Tri-State Meet in Maggie Valley on September 9th & 10th?

th-cam.com/video/Asgwq5cV2co/w-d-xo.html

Make sure you remove the oil gallery plugs. Two at the front and rear. One of the rear plugs is behind a steel freeze plug. Contact Fairborn Studebaker in Ohio for a R2 regrind canshaft.

Hi Rob. The red paint is a primer that was used to also seal any casting sand in the block. Black was the stock color for the finish paint. I'm pretty sure that it was a semi-gloss finish.

Good deal on getting the engine disassembled Rob. Looks like a great engine to rebuild.

I've had 7 Studebakers, and one thing that I would suggest is to unbolt the brackets that hold the front brake lines to the frame, weld the holes closed, weld any cracks you see, and weld some steel plates in that area. Add the plates to the top and both sides. I had a '61 Lark frame crack there, and when I put the brakes on while backing up, the front bumper would go up and down. I had a large engine in it which stressed the frame, but the welder said that he had seen the frames crack there in Studebakers as early as 1950. I'm guessing that the frame may have had some abuse driving on dirt roads, and this might be a good bit of insurance while you have it apart. Also, I have found that Walmart has low prices on carb, brake, and other cleaners. Purple Power works well for cleaning grease and dirt from the frame. Again, Walmart has a good price on it. If the power steering cylinder is leaking, the Lares Corporation has a lot of steering parts. The system is similar to what Ford and other companies used. I replaced the cylinder with a new one from Lares for my 1959 Ford Fairlane, and it made a huge difference steering the car. These cylinders are not rebuildable, however you can replace the piston rod seal. The seal on the piston will get worn, and not give as much boost as it once did. Good luck!

What size relay did you use?

You should look into adding a link to the parts you used so you can get paid a little. U never know some of these guys are making real $. Been thinking about getting into making videos too

Thank You!!

Loved it man… following your journey

Any updates on this ride?!

How much horsepower