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Thermoforming the polystyrene becomes a lot harder for larger shapes. You can try but you may run into problems. For larger, purely decorative mirrors you may have better results looking into bending polished stainless steel sheets. Example (though these mirrors are flat): www.niklasroy.com/polyskop/

Then you're using a plastic lens with a different focal length or the Nikon has a different flange distance and you didn't adjust the mount part for the difference. If you can't focus on infinitely-far away objects the distance between lens and sensor is too large. Getting it right is ultimately a matter of trail and error with unknown disposable lenses. You can adjust the distance as a parameter in the Fusion360 model and reprint the large base plastic part which holds the lens.

You're welcome. Sold similar files or the specifically the ones I uploaded?

@@vlztn suppose same files, only difference was a big watermark on focus ring

Dude, wtf?

Ultimems HD301-A2. You can find more info here: volzo.de/posts/raspberry-pi-projectors/

No, haven't heard about that before! I tried to avoid using any solvents for smoothing, as you said: that's often nasty stuff...

I tried that and had a few issues with this process. When using resin for the negative mold you're limited with regard to geometry because your resin mold is rigid and you need to separate it from the first lens+plastic mold. When using silicone for the second mold instead, every surface needs to be coated with mold release so silicone won't bind to silicone and this ruins the surface quality.

Short answer: you could, but you couldn't focus to infinity. Long answer: the distance between lens mount and sensor is 44mm for Canon EF lenses (and similar for other DSLR cameras) to accommodate the mirror. If you would place the disposable camera lens with ~30mm focal length right at the lens mount of the DSLR you could only use It as a close-up macro lens because you could never move the the lens close enough to the sensor to get a focus at objects more than a meter (or so) away.

@@vlztn I tried it on a Canon 700d (DSLR) and it's true that it can only focus at a distance of 3-5cm. Can I improve this lens with a long plastic tube to attach to the body cap? How long is good enough?

​@@congfj9549The longer the tube, the higher the magnification. Experiment and find out what works well for you.

Much appreciated.

That's what I used in the video: www.modulor.de/en/polystyrene-mirror-coloured-smooth.html

You can find all the links and some notes for assembly in the blog post linked in the description

Dann ist die Linse etwas zu weit vom Sensor entfernt (oder die Linse die Du verwendest hat eine etwas geringere Brennweite). Im Blogbeitrag sind die Fusion360 Dateien verlinkt, der Abstand der Linse zum Sensor kann man da als eine Variable ändern: help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=SLD-MODIFY-CHANGE-PARAMETERS Das ist ein wenig Fummelarbeit mit Neuausdrucken und Ausprobieren um für eine unbekannte Linse den genauen Abstand zu finden, aber wenn man nahe genug dran ist macht das Fokusgewinde den Rest.

Super, vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Schönen Abend!

If the distance between lens and sensor is exactly the same as the focal length of the lens, objects at infinity are in focus. Most disposable camera lenses have a focal length somewhere between 30-35 millimetres, the flange distance (metal ring to sensor surface) is 18mm for Sony E-mount cameras, so you probably need to move the lens a centimetre in away from the camera.

@@vlztn you are very kind and patient :) thank you!

Yes this lmao

I would guess that using a single glass lens would decrease and not improve the image quality. There is quite some clever engineering involved in making these aspherical plastic lenses. If you buy a singe off-the-shelf glass lens you'll have some new problems (different optical aberrations). If you still want to try that I would recommend to select a lens from the Thorlabs or Edmund Optics catalogue first and then design a lens housing around the dimensions and focal length of that lens. In the linked blog post you can find the Fusion360 design files if you want to use these as a starting point.

@@vlztn thanks! If the FFD is 18mm , I need an F18 lens at least?

yes. if the flange distance is 18mm your lens should have a focal length longer than that otherwise the lens would need to be able to move slightly into the camera housing to focus at infinity.

No, I never tried any Funsaver lenses, but there might be a remix on printables.com suitable for these.

@@vlztn thanks!

Probably you'll need to enable the "trigger without lens" option in the menu (might be called slightly different).

I'm not sure if I understand the question correctly...

@@vlztnin the point is, i try to make dispolens using analog pocket lens, but it macro, cannot to take building like yours

The basic principle would be the same but the distance between lens and sensor would need to be much longer so it works as a macro. Probably it would be easier to design a new housing from scratch instead of adjusting the one I did for the disposable camera lens.

I guess that would work. The easiest way to tinker around with lenses is this website: opticexplorer.sharedigm.com/ You don't need to use lens assemblies made of multiple single lenses, you can just use two single lenses and adjust some distances. An estimate of the correct distance from the website should be enough for you to design and print a physical part and do the adjustments in the distances with a bit of paper as spacers or focus screws. The most straightforward way to get a decent selection of lenses and worldwide shipping is Edmund Optics or Thorlabs.

@@vlztn thank you very much!

No, I own only Sony E-mount cameras. If you are familiar with Fusion360 you can design your own flange adapter for the X-mount and reuse all the other parts. CAD files can be found in the blog post linked in the description.

possible: yes, but it would not be much of a benefit. The single plastic lens has pretty bad optical aberrations (sharpness, vignette, ...) compared to optical systems with multiple glass elements. The designers did solve this problem by using the lens only with the very small fixed aperture. With an adjustable aperture one could open it up (and the image would get pretty soft probably) or close it down further (probably after two or three stops diffraction would be an issue)

@@vlztn Thanks, I have an old Film Yashika Electra 35 lens that used to be radium coated. I am keen to use that on my Sony A7RV, but I don't know how to build adapter for that

Got it cheaply as very old stock from a local analogue photo shop a few years ago. Wouldn't buy one again today.