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Hi Doug I'm not an engineer, maybe I missed my calling. Thanks for the kind words. I hope my video helped you solve your problem with the Avalon. Here's where I bought the replacements www.twomenonegarage.com/toyota-1. I got the white nylon gear replacement. Neither shows the Avalon but you can contact them at the link on their website.

I didn't have a service manual so for me it was trial and error. I knew the pump needed some, so I put what I could in there and then put the yellow/black screw cap back on. I tilted the cylinder up and held it in place with a zip tie to keep it from tilting down and leaking out. You need enough to get the pistons down into the cylinder, then I put as much in the pump area (with the trailer tongue down max) as I could get in there. As I recall, when I got it put back together I manually assisted the pump to raise the motor and frequently checked the fluid level over several days. You need to bleed the cylinder to get the air out, always checking the fluid.

Hi Jason, thanks for the compliment.🙂 I usually try to buy repair parts from the manufacturer of whatever item I'm repairing. In this case it was probably Pacific Boat Trailers pacifictrailers.com/blogs/boat-trailer-tips-advice/ufp-brake-actuator-parts-list-and-schematic. They bought out UFP but it's the same people running it, just new owners; very helpful people. That breakaway cable is supposed to stay locked when it's been deployed, but I think you're talking about the cable getting jammed in the mechanism. When my trailer was fairly new I had to do an emergency braking for some clown who dove in front of me just as we were coming to stopped traffic. After that I had multiple problems with the brakes overheating. Eventually I replaced the shock absorber and that helped. I also upgraded from a small pickup to a Gen 4 4Runner with a 4.7L V8 and that pulled harder to release the brakes. My trailer has a quick disconnect for the brake line just aft of the removable tongue. When my brakes would jam I'd disconnect the brake line and push in the little pin in the end to release pressure.

Hi Andy, that's terrible what they did to your motor. I hope my video helps you. I have others on my page that may help you as well, pics from different angles. I had not had any problems with starting until the stator went bad. It did have problems with the motor dying when I slowed down, but that was years before the stator went out. With the stator, the motor would start when the engine was cold from being in the garage. On the lake it wouldn't start at all, or only with extremely long cranking. Even then it would die if the RPMs were below 1200.

Aces 😃 Glad I could help

Hi Brian, the symptom of sudden/momentary drop in power was the first thing I noticed. It happened only above about 30 mph. Below that it ran fine. When it did happen there was the drop in power but the overheating alarm 'chirped'. It never got any worse but I couldn't run at full throttle at all. I replaced the rev limiter and that solved the problem Down the road a couple of seasons the motor was running fine, but if I throttled down it died and was extremely difficult to start, two times. I was on the water, about 4 miles from the dock. I thought I was going to get stuck, but I had a group 27 battery and I was able to crank enough to get it running. The next morning it started immediately. The next trip I went on it wouldn't start at all. I ended up replacing the stator and the motor started up right away. Yay! But when I took it up full throttle it died at 4900 RPM, nose dived, dropped RPMs and went full throttle, nose dived, etc. Below 5000 RPM it ran fine (like with my 4-blade prop). It acted like it was the rev limiter again. I bought another one, same story. I disconnected the rev limiter and have not had a problem since then. If you suspect the rev limiter, disconnect it: On the switch box (power pack), left row, 3rd wire down (on mine) is a black wire with yellow stripe. (This wire comes from the kill switch at the console.) Also on that same post is a black wire. That black wire goes to a junction box between the switch box and rev limiter. If you remove the black wire and tape up the end that removes the rev limiter from the circuit. (If not careful, you could over-rev your engine, particularly when starting.)

Hi, Brian. You can post your question here. I'm not a professional technician for outboards but I will try to help you. If I have a problem with anything, I Google search to try and find someone who has blazed that trail before. In this case I found very little, but I was able to purchase a service manual for my outboard and figure things out. It's running again and seems to be okay. So please, post your questions here.

Hi Chaz, thanks for your comments and details. When I did this I didn't have the service manual (I do now). I found several videos but the one I reference in my video helped me more than anything. He provided the very detailed layout of all the parts. I didn't have much to go on and I really wasn't sure that it was my problem. Happy ending, however, because it still works just dandy. Again, thanks for you watching and your comments.

I was out fishing, running okay, slowed to about 1500 RPM, motor died, wouldn't restart. I waited about 20 minutes and motor started. I went to the next spot, motor died as I approached the spot. I waited 45 minutes this time but it did start. I went to the next spot, motor died (wouldn't stay running below 1200 RPM) and wouldn't restart again. These symptoms happened on a previous trip, twice, but I was able to get back to the dock. After the second trip it never restarted until I replaced the stator.

Thanks, hoped it help you 😀

@@richward2288 sure did

You're welcome. I'm glad I was able to help. Mine is still going strong, no problems. :)

I've used a large garbage can for a 50 Evinrude I used to have. When I got the 115 I used the ear muffs, which I still have. In this neighborhood the houses are closer together so I try not to disturb the neighbors. We have an HOA here and I don't have the room to store a big plastic drum. The PVC works somewhat but I need to cover the back of the cavitation plate with a wet towel or something. Exhaust comes out of there as well as the prop hub.

Now we should make video on the water pump change. That would be a good video

@@davidc7406 A couple of years ago I got too close to a pinch point and tore up my prop and damaged the lower unit. Insurance paid for a replacement, so I won't need to do that any time soon. Replacing the stator was tough enough. :)

I think you may have installed the latch incorrectly. The A-60 is for a 2" hitch ball. You can't use a 1-7/8" ball. The latch is probably not closing under the 2" ball because of the installation. Not knowing what you took apart, I can only guess what the issue is. I suggest you look at this latch area, starting at 12:53 in the video and compare it with yours. I had removed that hitch pin and took out the spring. It was a tricky part to put back in and I think that's where your problem is. The spring can go back in either direction. I think you have it reversed. Maybe the latch is not in the right position either, but this seems to be the problem area. Good luck :)

I asked on the NextDoor app for our neighborhood and no one offered any help. I just needed a simple spot weld on the bracket for the bottom step of my RV steps, which I managed to do in about 5 minutes once I got it started.Just spent 5 weeks in the trailer and the weld is holding.

@@richward2288 Many times you can stop buy a welding supply store and ask... many guys that buy new welders are just chopping at the bit to weld with their new toy.

I agree. Better clamps than jumper clamps would have made a difference

Fornay E6013 3/32" Worked better when I exposed some metal on the tip of the rod, cleaned all contacts, including the jumper cable teeth and added the Vise Grips and bare 12 gauge wire.

Hello FLC 🙂 I'm not understanding. Can you give me the minute in the video where you see it? I don't recall making anything for the exhaust.

It just dawned on me that you are asking about the thing I made for the prop. 🙂 That's PVC pipe from Home Depot and some cheap runner carpet pieces rolled up inside to absorb some of the noise. My neighbors were complaining. I put it together dry (no cement) to see how it worked and it helped with the noise. Remember that the exhaust also comes out (on mine anyway) at the sacrificial anodes above the cavitation plate. DO NOT PUT IT INTO GEAR. 😲 It worked very well, you just need to use a 90° elbow instead of a 45° so it goes deep into the bucket. 😀

You're welcome 🙂 I'm glad my video helped you

Glad I was able to help you, JD559

Hello Doshin, TH-cam has stopped notifying me again. Sorry to be late with my reply. I'm glad I was able to help you with the repair. Mine is still going strong so you hopefully you will have good service from your opener. 🙂

Great! Glad I was able to help. Mine still works. 😀

Hi Warren, I didn't have anything to hold the camera so I had to stop filming and take that peg out. No, didn't break mine. Did you have the shifter in the forward position, about a 45° angle? When the shifter is at that angle there's nothing holding the peg except that rounded/split end. Mine came out easily. My boat is garage kept year around. It's old but there's no accumulation of dirt or corrosion anywhere.

Hi Tim, Happy Thanksgiving Yes, we have saved ourselves quite a bit of money. I get a lot of views and comments on the power tilt video, even from people with different sized Mercury motors. I have made several videos now; power trim, stator and switchbox replacement, rev limiter, remote throttle, starter motor repair, fuel pump rebuild, carburetor rebuild, and assembling the brake actuator on the trailer. I think it's safe to say we've saved a boatload of money. 😂

Happy Thanksgiving to you and family as well. I'll check out some of your other videos over the holiday. Not sure if you have watched any of my other videos? I do more than just outboards. I just picked up a vintage 1964 Honda 90. Very cool little trail bike. Really in good condition.

@@TimsWorkshopTJY I had a '74 Honda CB200 in 74-76 I think. Times got tough and I had to sell it. I miss it but never got into riding again. I'll check out your videos

I read the various explanations in the service manual and they are pretty complex. I can give you a guess on how this thing works but I'm not an outboard mechanic. Fluid is above and below the the bottom piston, the one on the shock rod and also the memory piston. The O-rings form a seal to maintain pressure in both areas, depending on the required trim/tilt. Bottom piston has several BB sized balls with springs. (See video at 15::22) These allow fluid to flow past it if you strike an underwater object, to allow fluid from above to enter the lower area and force the shock rod to extend when you hit an underwater object. When the pump is energized (trim up) it puts pressure on the fluid and that pressure pushes the memory piston up to the shock/bottom piston. Push the trim button down and the pump reverses drawing fluid back to the reservoir and allowing the memory piston to drop, which lowers the pressure and the shock rod and bottom piston to drop. Let go of the trim button and pressure above and below the bottom/shock piston, with vacuum on the memory piston keep everything in place and the motor stays where it is. I hope that gives you a general idea of how it works

Thank you Rich, I'll give it a try. Guess if I don't have the seals I need to fix it I'll have to order more parts. My kit came with 3 seals.

@@EldyValLeapaldt Did you order the Mercury kit? It should have all the seals you need, including the ones for the pump motor.. Go to the Mercury parts site with your motor's serial number and look in the section for the trim parts, get the kit number and search for it. You can probably get it on Amazon www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog

Thanks for the kind word, Mike. Just sharing my repairs for others. Motor has been running very well since this repair. New life in an old motor. 😃

Hi Howard, how's things down under? You guys are heading into spring while we've got the furnace going 🙂 I'm not quite understanding about the shear pin. Do you mean the pin removal (pry out) at about the 2 minute mark or the shock rod pin removal at the 3 minute mark? The first pin needs to be pried out. I used a screw driver to move it a little, then a chisel to get it the rest of the way so I could pull it out. The second pin holds the shock rod and comes out fairly easy. It just needs to be tapped with something so as not to damage it. Make sure the motor is supported on the kickstand so it doesn't fall on you.

Hi Rich, Thanks so much for your reply and help! Yes that’s right. The screws on the trim sender screws sheared off The trim sender itself fell apart in my hands. Regarding pins .. For me both were a nightmare.. Trilobe pin and the “shaft” I have a 1994 90hp mercury. Both pins seized ! Finally ,with bolt buster , Inox ,wd40 and an assortment of pry bars Trilobe pin came out 🙏🏻 The mercury rep mechanic told me that the Trilobe pin was a shear pin .I did try just hitting from port side and it didn’t shear 😅 The “shaft” was also totally seized. Tried ALL ways , heat ,as above loosening lubricants , then hitting with flat punches.Looked locally for various types of pullers and pushers including portapower to no avail. Finally, I found a steering bearing, clamp G clamp online. Cost me $45 Australian and was here in two days! I got a mate to come and help me hold the clamp in line while I was able to put a socket inline the right size on the port side And clamped against the starboard side of the transom bracket on the motor. I had a breaker bar half inch socket on the G clamp with an extension! With One loud bang the shaft moved. Continued to to push out shaft using this method until shock rod just fell down ,out! I disassembled and reassembled with new o rings as you kindly advised-same supplier you recommended. (I had to replace three ht screws holding the ball bearings . All torqued to spec.as your advise / service manual.) (Forgot to say my memory piston was difficult to remove .. purchased lock ring tool online to get out.) (shaft had been shimmed in place by someone? No wonder it wouldn’t come out. All parts back together except sender. Trim refused to lift. Read somewhere to check relief valve condition in full up position So removed and cleared. After several lifts up with trim up pressed and refilling reservoir each time was able to gradually refill cylinder and get hydraulic pressure back. Ok on trim down , but a bit of a compressed noise when on lift . However is holding in all positions. Definitely for me not plain sailing for me as a mechanical job.You can see it’s taken me a month and half working on and off. But like you Rich .. I’m a happy camper , thanks again for your help. Thought others might be interested too👍

WOW! What a story, Howard. I feel for you that you had that much trouble. Sounds like your motor is stored outside and/or you use it in salt water. I'm fortunate to have mine garage kept, but then I can't take it out without traveling 1.4 hours to get to a lake. I guess it's like plumbing. The really hard part is getting the old stuff off. I'm simply amazed at what you went through. I bow to any mechanic. I am only mechanically inclined and I come from the school of hard knocks. In days of yore a shear pin was a brass pin that went through the prop shaft and prop. Hit a rock and the brass pin sheared off, protecting the drive shaft. Rubberized props have replaced that. For my memory piston I just pressurized the system and out she flew, across the garage floor. Someone else posted in here that they had a hard time as well. I don't see how the trilobe could shear off from any operation. To me it looks like it's purpose is to make the pivot shaft turn and rotate the sending unit when you trim the motor. Without that pin the sending unit wouldn't work properly because the shaft wouldn't rotate properly. I was fortunate enough not to have to open up the pump motor side of this gizmo. I did have air in the system when I finished but I would just lift by the skeg as I used the pump to help raise the motor, lock it in place and check the fluid. Close that up and take it off the kickstand, open the bypass nylon screw to let it down. Raise it up again, lock it, check fluid, unlock, lower with the bypass screw. I did that about 10-15 times and it has removed all the bubbles. It's been working like new since I made the repair. You had a tough time, for sure, but now now you have made the repair and should be very proud for all the work you did. I'm glad my video was a big help for you.

Took me hours to get the upper pin out. Finally got the engine angled just right to punch it out from the back side. Don't think those are sheer pins. They are intended to pry out. Might try stainless bolts with locking nuts next time.

I'm going to guess that you don't have access to the motor. The serial number should be on the top of the swivel bracket, the right side. It's the thing that holds the motor to the transom. Since the catalog doesn't list the entire fuel pump assembly all I can give you is the part number for mine, which doesn't include the rest of the pump, only the center section - 14360A43. It may or may not fit your motor. ** Looking at that number on Amazon and eBay, it does appear to be the complete pump.** I still think your best bet is to call a Mercury dealer and give him the information you have about the motor; year, HP, etc. He might be able to help you locate the entire assembly or else help rebuild your old one.

Part number will vary according to your serial number. Get the serial number off your motor (right side on the mounting bracket) and go to this site (Mercury parts), www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog select the option to open the catalog, enter your serial number into the box and it will show you a list of motors by HP/Cyl/Mfg location etc. On the left side look for fuel pump. Using my serial number I see a complete fuel pump assembly, just the parts. So you'll have to check with your local Mercury dealer to see if they can order one for you.

Thanks for the compliment. I hope the video was helpful and you could resolve your problem. My opener is still going strong but I had to replace the electric eyes on the door because they kept giving a false blocked door reading. Found replacements on Amazon and I'm good for another 25 years. 🙂

Hi, thanks for the compliments. I hope you found my video useful.

Hi Jayson, there are several areas that could affect braking. Fluid comes from the master cylinder to the right brake then crosses to the left brake on mine. Have you checked the brake lines for kinks or bends? Have you replaced all the fluid at some point? Old fluid holds moisture and will rust the lines from inside. Rust can impact caliper operation. Did you remove/replace the calipers? The bleeder valve should be on the top of the caliper. If it's on the bottom then the calipers are on the wrong sides and won't bleed properly. Here is the bleed operation I have. It's for both 2-wheel and 4-wheel trailers: Check that all hydraulic fittings are secure. Read and understand all instructions before starting. Two people are required for manual bleeding. 1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir plug and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Use either DOT 3 or DOT 4 automotive brake fluid. Follow instructions on brake fluid container. Avoid shaking brake fluid container and pour fluid slowly to minimize air entrapment. Let fluid in reservoir stand until completely free of air bubbles. 2. IMPORTANT: Before bleeding brake lines, bleed the actuator master cylinder. Insert a screw driver through hole in bottom of inner member and use short strokes to pry on pushrod (while holding safety release bracket up) until no air bubbles are seen coming from small orifice hole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir. 3. Start bleeding procedure on the brake furthest from master cylinder. 4. At the brake assembly, connect a transparent bleeder hose to bleed screw fitting on wheel cylinder and submerge free end into a container partially filled with brake fluid. Do not reuse this fluid. 5. The first person strokes the pushrod slowly while holding safety release bracket up. The second person opens the bleed screw fitting. He then closes the bleed screw fitting BEFORE the first person SLOWLY releases the pushrod. Repeat this procedure until the fluid expelled from the bleeder hose is free of air bubbles. Remember to always tighten the bleeder screw before releasing pushrod. During this procedure, the master cylinder reservoir fluid level must be maintained at no less than 1/2 full. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other brake and the brakes on the front axle, if equipped with tandem brake axles. 7. If installation is tandem axle with brakes on both axles, repeat bleeding procedure on rear axle brakes for the second time to assure purging of all air in system. 8. As a final check after bleeding is completed, stroke pushrod and check to be sure brake system is pressurized by attempting to rotate a tire. 9. Push up on the safety release bracket to ensure that pushrod is in released position. 10. After bleeding has been completed, re-check fluid level in master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to indicator on reservoir plug. Do not overfill.

@@richward2288 Thank you for the detailed explanation. WOW! TH-cam needs to keep you. Couple of things, I found the line was cut (from previous owner) I purchased the trailer 3 weeks ago. I removed the the hydraulic line and replaced with another one. I plan to bleed the lines tomorrow using your instructions above. If everything else fails, I plan to replace the A60. I believe I should be looking at part # 34043 (I have dual axle but only 1 axle has disc brakes)

@@jaysoncayetano2438 I'm not sure why you want to replace the inner slide actuator. If one line is working/stopping but not the other it would seem to me there is something wrong with the lines after the master cylinder. The master cylinder compresses the fluid to both lines at the same time. You might want to call Pacific Boat Trailers about the issue. I have used Pacific Boat Trailers in the past and have found them to be very helpful. My trailer was made in 1994 and they were able to help me get replacements for the rotors. (an OEM rotor had crack in it, so I replaced both) pacifictrailers.com/pages/contact-us. You can go to their site and look up that part number. When I Google it, that part number says it's for a single axle. Mine is a single axle with disc brakes. I don't know about a dual axle that has brakes on just one of them. The bleeding instructions are from the owners manual. I found it online: trailmastertrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/UFP-Actuator-Maintenance.pdf

@richward2288 thank you sir! I did the bleeding this morning and both I got everything to work and tighten. The new issue is, I notice the brake fluid leaking where the push rod pushing the master cylinder bottom part. I replaced the retainer ring which was rusted pretty bad. After replacement I don't see any leak right now I'm leaving it out the way it is. If I don't see any leak I'll put everything back together. Appreciate all the help and input I really do.

@@jaysoncayetano2438 You're welcome, Jayson. Glad my video was helpful. I've replaced my master cylinder and the new one rusted within the first year. Rust never affected the operation but I'm always careful to prevent the rust from getting into the reservoir. It's lasted for many years without any problems.

Hi Josh, I'm glad I was able to help you. Thanks for watching. 🙂

See if this helps th-cam.com/video/qrhUhCVZKN8/w-d-xo.html

If you mean the tab on the bottom of the actuator, that's the push rod release. If you accidentally pull away from the trailer with the breakaway cable still attached, it will activate the brakes. That tab locks the pushrod in place so there's pressure in the lines. To disarm you push up on the tab and that releases the pushrod and brakes. There's no spring. When the breakaway cable is pulled the pushrod drops into a collar and holds it there. Pushing on the tab releases it. When not activated it should just be free, but there's not much play in it. If you look at 27:34 in the video you can see that when the breakaway is pulled, it pulls the plunger into the master cylinder. When that happens that tab will drop into the slot on the plunger and stay there. Then you have to push up on the tab to release the plunger. If your brakes are operating normally then that tab is probably just binding on the pushrod. The tab on mine stays in place and doesn't have much free play.

Clever. I considered that but I had been having problems with the rectangular lid of the oil fill. The foam kept leaking, even after several replacements. Overheating and warping that filler area with a heat gun did not help. I found the different oil tank and replaced it but it doesn't fit very well. It is hard to unscrew and remove the filler cap/dipstick. I don't see any way to improve it. I can force the screw cap off but the easiest way is to remove the cowling and refill the tank.

Glad I could help you

Never open the fill cap in the down position. It's under pressure. Only open in the up and locked position. There is a tilt lock on the left side of the motor near the lube point. Maybe you mean the release valve screw??? I raised the motor then opened the release valve screw slowly until the motor was down. Closed the valve, raised the motor, locked it with that tilt lock, opened rhe reservoir and checked fluid level. Foam indicates air in the system

At the beginning, you can see how to use the tilt lock. You always want the tilt lock engaged If you open the fluid fill cap because when the motor goes down it compresses the fluid. th-cam.com/video/61W_0cLc1qw/w-d-xo.html For bleeding, start the video at this position to understand how I did it. Watch it all the way through before starting th-cam.com/video/61W_0cLc1qw/w-d-xo.html

Ok i didn't think you had opened the fill plug in the down position. So my next question is by opening the bypass valve to slowly lower the motor does that allow the fluid to fill in the reservoir?

​@@cdebacaa1 Opening the bypass valve allows fluid and air to bypass the pump and return to the reservoir. That is my understanding. If you were at the lake and needed to raise your motor manually you would open the valve and raise the motor by lifting at the skeg until high enough for trailering, then close it again (motor toter in place). With that bypass valve open you can raise or lower the motor my hand. Just be careful :)

Glad i was able to help you. 🙂

Hi, BOAC :) Glad I was able t help you. Mine is still going strong, no problems. Hope you get great service out of yours

Starting at 15:33 in the video I show you how I did it. In a nutshell, I used metal duct tape wrapped around the pins in the gland nut wrench. The tape added padding to protect the edges of those holes. jamesstokes8015 commented below that he used drill bits in those holes.

@@richward2288 Yes, I saw that, however what is holding the other end of the shock rod in place while you loosen the bottom piston. Did you just hold it by hand, or did you put a large screwdriver threw the other end of the shock rod where the pin goes to get leverage? You mentioned it being very difficult to pry loose.

@@knicol33 Look at the video for time: 17:29. You'll see I have it vertical in my bench vise. I wouldn't insert anything metal in the connector. It might scratch it. If you have to put something in there use a wooden dowel, but a bench vise would be best. th-cam.com/video/61W_0cLc1qw/w-d-xo.html

@@richward2288 Thanks! I totally missed the bench vise.

@@knicol33 Easy to do. I made these so I could reference them myself. Good luck with the rebuild. Several people have found it useful