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I got the router wing from Harvey when I bought my saw. The router lift is a Jessem. I've been using the router lift for about 3 years now and would buy it again. Jessem makes high quality tools. I have other products of theirs that I'm very happy with.

I guess you can buy push sticks like this but to me the fun is making them and then I can make them to my specifications

A day late getting back to you, sorry. I don't have specs because as I say in the description, it's trial and error. The pole has to be very secure because it will either start loosening your post in the ground and/or potentially pull out or bend screws if too small. I would through bolt instead of using screws. I found if you have it open all the way, it can jam up and cause it to reverse direction. In other words, the pole can't be parallel to the track on the opener. As you can see in the video, I don't have it open all the way. I did eventually adjust it to open a little more for fear someone might back into it. You can also see where I cut 3 sides of the garbage can in to places side by side, that was for my first opener to access the adjustment screws, not needed anymore. Another option, which I couldn't use because my driveway sloped upwards, is to attach a wheel with a very short section of chain to the motor. Picture a wheel like on a gocart with the sprocket. Now the motor will drive the wheel and you set the stops on the opener as you normally would for travel distance. And to really make it work well, I'd have a decent size spring on a bracket so the wheel can travel up and down for minor variations in your driveway.

Are you asking for how to use a circular saw? If so there are some really talented people on TH-cam, The Wood Whisperer is one, Stumpy Nubs is another, Matt Estella, many others.

@@Rich32262 sorry, I kinda mangled the message with my far fingers, but I think you kind of help me make my point. I love those channels you mention, but when I searched those channels for info about circular saws, the best they offer is a defense of table saws. I don't have space for one, and I'm not making furniture or on the other hand, framing houses. I'm just a guy trying to do tiny jobs like making a bike hanger or hanging some nice custom planters off my fence. I watched Stumpy Nubs talk about how great the fence is on his table saw and how it's so much better than a track guide for a circular saw. He didn't once acknowledge the existence of my issue: my circular saw blade was skew to the edges of its table. On the other hand, your video is the first one I've found that properly identified this issue. And I thank you for it.

Let's not push it. If I'm going to do that I might as well get some real metal conduit instead of using PVC. That's pretty funny though.

I didn't show how to fix it because I had already fixed it by the time I did the video. The video was an afterthought I'm just showing you the part that bent on mine hoping that would help you figure out what part might be bent on yours. I wasn't sure that straightening the part was the fix. Again had I shown from the very beginning I would have shown you checking to see if my saw blades were bent if the saw blades were sharp if the saw blades were dirty etc. Again the video was an afterthought

With everything mounted in it's place, can you pull the release for the opener (the spring loaded pin) so that the trolley (the part that goes over the rail assembly) will slide freely as you open the gate by hand. If it will open and close without binding, I'm not sure why it would be bending on you. I don't know how long the conduit is you're using. A full 10' length may be too long. You may also have to move the opener closer or farther from the gate hinges. Hard for me to trouble shoot without seeing it.

What's that old saying "they sure don't make em like they used to".

True story. I replaced this part with one from my local Makita, saw is still drifting left no matter what you do and if you try to correct, it just binds the blade and kills the motor. Check the base-blade for square both directions and that seems fine. Not sure what it is at this point.

@@evictioncarpentry2628 Sorry, no idea.

It's not just Makita. Got a Bosch in the mail. It's out of alignment. They do not put much care in manufacturing these things. It's all mass produced horseshit.

I'm sure you could could find metal wheels somewhere. Some with or without the bearings in them. I guarantee you can find makeshift lathes on TH-cam, I'd be leery about how safe they would be though. I guess you could also put the wood on a drill press and use a round file to make the grooves or a coarse sand paper wrapped around a dowl while the wood was turning. Good luck. BTW, I've considered adding a third wheel to each block but then I have to consider the hook I have. I'd have to look at the capacity from the ratchet strap I took it from and because it could be bent open. I'm no engineer.

@@Rich32262 thanks. I was just thinking about this problem as the notification came though. I think a regular drill in a vice driving a bolt holding the plywood circle, and then a round file followed by sandpaper, would do the trick. Might be slow but that’s ok. I’m thinking some old copper pipe for the sleeves. Possibly half inch. Just have to match the bolt roughly to the pipe. This is the sort of tool I’ll use occasionally but I’ll get that fun buzz every time simply because I made it. Thanks again. Oh, one more thing. You mentioned plans right at the end of this one. I don’t think they are needed but I was wondering if you forgot to add a link in the description. I can’t find another example that’s as straightforward to conceive as yours.

@@frederickwood9116 Someone else had mentioned plans too. I guess I said that in the video and forgot all about it. I'll try to figure something out. I'm on vacation now but when I get home I'll try to put something together. Thanks for the reminder.

Glad to help. I don't care about subscribers or to make money on TH-cam, I get alot of help here too, and just paying it forward.

It has obvious limitations like an explosion that could break the pipe prior to reaching the sprinkler heads. But if it's a slow starting fire, it may work well enough to keep from losing everything.

@@Rich32262 true. I’m thinking about making mine out of metal piping though

@@KnifeHandWoodDesign Nice! Gives good piece of mind.

I got the sprinkler heads for free and I just figured I put so much time into this shed it's better than nothing I wasn't looking for the ultimate in a sprinkler system. All this cost me with some half inch PVC cement in a little time.

@mespenschied I don't know why I'm just seeing this reply from you right now and it's been a year. Don't know if you installed yours yet but if I was real serious about it I would have used metal too. I just put a bunch of time into my wooden shed and thought this was better than nothing. I got the sprinkler heads free so it was dirt cheap.

I only use this during hurricane season here in Florida to set huge hanging plants on the ground (30 + year old staghorn ferns). Not only are most block and tackle type devices expensive, even for old beat up ones, I don't use em much. Thanks for the comment though, point taken.

That is the idea with those. I kind of contradict myself at the end. Even thought the wood stops are 90 degrees, sometimes the blades still need a little micro adjustment so they lay flat on the sharpening stone.

Is there anyway you can put a small square on it to see if the base plate is square with the saw blade?

@@Rich32262 I did, the blade looked square to the base.

@@jamesmcconnell8556 I'm no expert just a handy guy but it seems that if the arbor (shaft) is bent, the blade would be wobbling like crazy. With mine, it was the bracket attached to the base plate that adjusts the depth of cut. It curves up and has a slot in the middle. If you take this off of the saw, put it on a flat surface, put a square on it and see if that metal piece I'm talking about is square to the base plate. MIne was bent.

@@Rich32262 thanks, I’ll try that.

The Makita saws are so flimsy that the whole thing racks and twists as you push it through the wood.

This is why I like youtube. I get a lot of help on TH-cam and just try to pay back. Not trying to make any money.

Thanks, I'll build another one some day with nicer wood. This was a prototype that has worked out ok. Not my finest work but quite functional.

No, I have several Makita tools they've always been fantastic. This saw cut perfectly up until the point the base plate arm got bent.

@@Rich32262 happened to me too. I am using bosch. How to overcome this problem?

I don't even remember dropping mine but it was clearly bent. I would imagine even a slight bend will cause problems.

I concur.

How to take out the circular saw shoe/base? I am using bosch face the same problem😭😭😭

@@gurusekolah4318 I don't know about the bosch. You could possibly go to Bosch and look at the parts list for that specific saw, that will give a breakdown of how everything goes together. From that maybe you can tell how to take it apart and put it back together. Or maybe someone has done it on TH-cam. Good luck.

@@Rich32262 thank you

@@gurusekolah4318 Google for the manual/part diagram for your model online. Many part sellers offer free diagram for parts. Or observe the saw carefully and you can easily find how to do it.

I don't understand what your comment means.

Thank you. Used ones are crazy expensive and often beat up and rusty. I think I may add a third wheel for more mechanical advantage.

@@Rich32262 I am in Mexico and need to make a block and tackle to lift a truss for a barn I'm building. This model is the nicest one I have seen.

@@Jimmy_in_Mexico I may add another wheel to each piece for even more advantage, but do consider the hook you're using. Mine is just from a ratchet strap good to about 500 lbs. The metal is just bent around to make the eye. It could open with excessive weight. Make sure whatever hook you use can handle the weight you're lifting.

Just saw this, no doubt about the limitation of the hooks, they are from ratchet straps.