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I’m curious as to how this compares to the belt 3D enderxy kit. Build is awesome tho man 👌🏼 not nearly enough videos on these sweet printers

AI thumbnail? Eww....

Oof. The battery costs more than my printers D:

😀 P r o m o S M

How many mm/s?

Any updates on this? Part 2 and 3?

The answer is yes. You’re welcome everyone.

More NG content!

Good video. My build is very similar and I have some questions but can’t find you on Discord. Can you help?

You should really invest in some Bambu printers they are more reliable and faster then Enders. And you are going to be spending just as much after you upgrade your Enders. I had an ender 3 pro and I bought a Bambu printer it is amazing completely different experience so much better.

I'll throw my information in since I am NG 0.52. the Reversal Pin in klipper was all the change you needed to do for directions, and that would have eliminated your change of offsets etc, also the bed level issue is known, and I found it was related to how hot I printed the Z carage parts. I had all 3 lead screw points fail on me after the first print I did because it flexes that much. reprinted the ABS hot, about 280 and the joints are much stiffer and it no longer has the issue with 1 side or the other dropping while printing. your Green machine looks Great!!

thanks for the video! I’m looking into doing something similar and this is invaluable

I think this is awesome. That even with the advent of "streamlined" commercially available printers people still have the desire to tinker and keep to the spirit of 3D printing. I myself recently got a very capable machine but I also have a nice little ender 3 that's served me well and might just deserve such a new lease on life. Thanks for the vid.

Yeah made one out of ABS about 3-4 years ago to convert the stock stand of my 2nd monitor to vesa so I could use it vertically. It’s been going strong ever since.

hey man, enjoyed your video. Try to work on your camera setup. Make sure things are in focus. Keep it going!

Need that LDO kit!!

Dude, this is freakin' awesome, and I love the green color! Regarding bearings, you can get Drylin brand bearings that (I think) are PTFE based and don't need much (if any) lubrication. I'm not sure how they fare over time, being just plastic and not having recirculating balls, but I've used them on my printers and seem to work well with the amount of printing I do, and they're quieter too, but YMMV...

awesome video, love the green colour.

Really doesn't take a lot of grease bro. Are your smooth rods chinesium metal? That stuff is tricky, looks real, smells real, weighs less, not very hard or strong. Probably cheaper to ship though so kudos on that. Oh, and those are not "linear rail bearings". They are Linear Motion Bearings but if you just called them "LM" or "LMU" bearings, that works too. 3D printers in general use a MINIMUIM amount of grease for reasons that will become obvious very fast if you don't heed this warning.

Measure the model height with a caliper unless you know which layer it stopped on, then you can get the height from the slicer. Using Orca as an example, 1- Use the cut function to slice off whatever you measured on the model or got from the layer height. 2- Disable brim and bottom solid layers. 3- Setup a new machine profile that DOES NOT HOME 4- Home the printer manually and touch the top of the model, somewhere within your last printed layer. If you don't have a touch style probe you can use something like a thin metal ruler and then subtract its thickness. If you can't hit a spot on the model try to use something like a piece of paper pulled tight across the model if you have a touch probe, otherwise, use a ruler or similar and subtract. No need to subtract with the paper method. 5- Begin your print and reduce print speed to 35%, this will help melt the previous layer into the next and blend any imperfections. If your bed doesn't home in the center, well why? You should only be using your bed level sensor to home, if you're using a second sensor on your gantry, why? You're not adding any failsafe's, you're just adding more reasons why your first layers suck or are inconsistent.

Soldering neodymium magnets? Good idea xD is it still magnetized?

Awesome video. Really hoping you do a full build video.

I just purchased a second 3D printer and was hoping to try to venture out into the craft fair world to see if it would be a fun way to add a little income to our family as we also enjoy going to the shows and I've noticed that the ones around here have very few "kid friendly" booths. Without getting into details about what you guys made, I'm guessing that you made enough profit from the first show to see that it's a worthwhile investment to continue doing the craft shows? I have a bit of cold feet because I've never done anything like this before but I think it would be fun, especially as someone who knows how to 3D model and can come up with original designs if the money is there.

If you got that color from sunlu I had the exact same problem

you should use Noctua fans

How do I turn off subtitles

Waiting on the tutorials!!

well done and good video as well keep up the good work, god bless you and stay healthy and wise always

Why would you hardcode subtitles onto a video? TH-cam has a closed caption tool... let people chose if they want annoying words constantly changing on the screen.

That looks almost like old green, the color of ancient industry that goes well with minium red.

Got yourself a new sub here. Well put together video. The editing as well as the clear explanation of everything you were doing put the message across perfectly. This looks like a cool, good fun build. That can probably be done even recycling some components from an older printer that one may have laying around collecting dust. The subtitles are sort of redundant because your voice came through clearly. In time and with some new camera equipment, this can become a good 3D printing channel.

My man! This project looks awesome! You just gave me the epiphany I needed to finally realize my own self-designed/DIY 3D printer build. I plan on using a mix of kit parts and/or market printer components. But I plan on building the frame and much of the motion system via my own design. I want a CoreXY printer. Or at the very least a very good Cartesian-CoreXY style like the Ender 5S1 which I purchased recently to get that top quality or FAST speeds while retaining quality which my SOVOL SV06+ pair just can't do even fully tuned with Klipper. They are GREAT as utilitarian printers the SOVOLs.. But when you NEED quality, a bed slinger just can't cut it, a lot of the time..

What stepper drivers are running those motors??? They are SUPER loud like the original Ender 3's ? awwwwww NM, you answered my question at the end

Dude was that Cyanotic?

New sub . Dude you’re talking fine. You don’t need the subtitles. . Thanks though!

This is so COOL! I think any CNC'd parts may help? If it is in need, would love to sponsor and reach any potential collab! (PCBWay zoey)

damn you got me thirsting for a 3d printer 😩

Why did you write the description with chatgpt?

Thanks for sharing this, we are doing our first craft fair in a few weeks.

Super awesome, so what's the total cost of parts

so what is your all in price for the build?

Nice , i bet it works well

I have most of the parts to build the ender NG. I will go with a manta m4p with klipper. But first I need to build my Voron 0.2

Amazing

Try a probe repeatability test with klipper and check the z axis grub screws. Not all microswitches are built the same, and cheap switches have higher tension on the plunger which can deform some bed mounts, so maybe build an unklicky probe instead. Also give kamp a try.

Wow

awesome work on the build, keep us updated

1 get the printer off the floor, 2 you could put a 3d printing enclosure around it To hold the heat. 3 prep the machine by heating the bed about 15 mins ahead of time. Do NOT MOVE IT IN THE HOUSE if your just printing abs.

for your abs layer issues, I'd suggest you slow down your print speed, speed is the enemy of quality prints, have your bed warmed up to temperature for like a half hour before starting the print to help warm the chamber, then let the part sit inside the printer after it finishes without opening the doors for 15 minutes or so, so the printed part cools off slower.

Who ant been there😢