LRS Maker
LRS Maker
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Simple bearing removal trick
Simple trick to easily remove a bad bearing from a pulley without any special tools.
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Rich in the 80s - DivKid
มุมมอง: 189

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Timelapse Camera Build for my 3D Printer | Affordable & Automated
มุมมอง 3.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video shows you all the details on how I build my timelapse camera for my 3D printer (the Artillery Sidewinder X1) using octolapse. Which is running on a raspberry pi with octoprint. 0:00 Intro 0:43 Hardware 1:50 Design 3:25 Printing the parts 4:57 Hacking the lights 6:32 Cabling 8:59 Assembly 10:29 Octolapse configuration 13:49 Results 15:07 Final thoughts All the models and files can be ...
Sidewinder X1 SKR 1.4 + Raspberry Pi setup inside housing
มุมมอง 11K3 ปีที่แล้ว
You can find the STL file for the subframe here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4759811

ความคิดเห็น

  • @hossainforhad5335
    @hossainforhad5335 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    hi can you help me to set my x1 ?? plz

  • @vafpcollection3903
    @vafpcollection3903 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    do you can help me, i have sony ezv10 and bambu a1 mini

  • @AphaGoodies
    @AphaGoodies 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Yo, where did u find those gimbal mounts?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      AliExpress as is all the other stuff

    • @AphaGoodies
      @AphaGoodies 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@LRS_maker thx :)

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@AphaGoodies the one i have is called SmallRig Video Metal Mini Ball Head Cold/Hot Shoe Mount w/ 1/4" Screw Support Bracket for DSLR Camera LED Light Monitor 2059 a.aliexpress.com/_EzLh4zf

    • @AphaGoodies
      @AphaGoodies 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@LRS_maker oh thx. also what software do you use (like octoprint or cura??)

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@AphaGoodies yeah octo

  • @Gounesh
    @Gounesh ปีที่แล้ว

    Lovely! Wish I could’ve use such thing on my Bambu Lab printer!

  • @TowxTenandSix
    @TowxTenandSix ปีที่แล้ว

    What is that camera?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker ปีที่แล้ว

      It's a raspberry pi HQ camera

  • @noodlememes6589
    @noodlememes6589 ปีที่แล้ว

    Over engineered but I love it!

  • @diegohidalgo2817
    @diegohidalgo2817 ปีที่แล้ว

    Will you share a diagram?😢

  • @stuh4645
    @stuh4645 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for this, it answered most of the questions I had. Did you use a wiring diagram or can you share one?

  • @diegohidalgo2817
    @diegohidalgo2817 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great work, you just inspired me, thank youe

  • @FromLake
    @FromLake ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the video maat

  • @RizwanSarwar
    @RizwanSarwar ปีที่แล้ว

    So you can't really replace the quality of a good DSLR. I tried to get away with RPI camera a while back but it was a struggle. Also to get @WildRoseBuilds quality timelapses, you need consistent lighting. Your environment is contributing a lot to poor picture quality. Finally really like what you have done with the lights, I think you need brighter lights and then apply post processing filters to get cool images. You are right track.

  • @filipeglopes
    @filipeglopes 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Where can we get the build?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The link is in the description

  • @infernalbird2
    @infernalbird2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So... I'm trying to recreate this with my own flare but I have no experience with arduinos, how do you power them, can I use something a little less expensive?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm using a 3euro esp32, which is insanely overpowered for this application but i have them lying around. I just power it with a simple 5v source like a phone charger, it doesn't draw much power

    • @infernalbird2
      @infernalbird2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@LRS_maker I went with a sparkfun. Thanks for sharing this and providing some inspiration!

  • @waffenwalter5962
    @waffenwalter5962 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing!!

  • @mtayseer82
    @mtayseer82 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I think the reason the edges are blurry is octolapse using aggressive video compression.

    • @mtayseer82
      @mtayseer82 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The 16mm lens has better quality as well

  • @baisongliu6792
    @baisongliu6792 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great work !! keep it up man!!👍

  • @ronsone8373
    @ronsone8373 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good start off for your channel Nice!

  • @MADEIN3DPRINTING
    @MADEIN3DPRINTING 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I think more light can improve image quality on this camera .

  • @oliverkhor4415
    @oliverkhor4415 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing👍👍

  • @twosuns20
    @twosuns20 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice upgrade. Are you planning to add a BLtouch? I also want to add klipper with input shapper to get rid of ringing and ghosting but it seems harder than adding a BLtouch.

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      BLtouch would be nice, but don't really have too much first layer problems so not a priority. Input shaping is definitely beneficial for this type of printer, but don't see myself having the time to figure it out anytime soon. Do you know any documentation of people who did it for this printer?

  • @mrgefaket3176
    @mrgefaket3176 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Where to get the 3d prit file? <3

  • @mactastic144
    @mactastic144 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why would you need a Pi when you have a 32-but main board?

  • @colbypetty6422
    @colbypetty6422 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    What percentage of infill did you use for the bonfire light base? was it 100% infill with natural PLA opaque white

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's more like 15, should be as minimal as possible to let the light through. Best would be 0 but printing might become difficult.

  • @shadowheart43
    @shadowheart43 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    What if you accidentally press the button???

  • @La838
    @La838 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Lars nice set up! Did you have any issues at all powering the Pi off the SKR after all this time?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      No issues but you will need to get the dcdc converter to have sufficient power

  • @armando3182
    @armando3182 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Did it make a difference in print quality and speed? Also how much did you spend? Thanks in advance.

  • @saadsas1989
    @saadsas1989 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a Sidewinder X1 printer and I want to install SKR 1.4 + Raspberry Pi 4 Please help and I will send you money after trying the printer and it's ok

  • @FuriousImp
    @FuriousImp 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wat een MacGyver actie 🤣 De mijne heb ik ernaast staan in een kastje, is prima zo. Ij ga OctoKlipper installeren, dus ik denk niet dat ik een SKR 1.4 nodig heb. Voor automatisch uitschakelen heb ik een Sonoff S20 met een andere firmware zodat ik het via een octopi app besturen kan (Voor het uitschakelen van mijn printer). En daarbij een auto shutdown app voor octoprint zelf.

  • @MCgranat999
    @MCgranat999 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I thought about something similar but I decided not to because of the WiFi reception, maybe I'll consider it again. One question, have you tried to utilize the integrated official display with something like OctoScreen?

  • @AviDarks
    @AviDarks 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Will this also be possible for the artillery genius?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't own one so I don't know if it fits, you might have to redesign the subframe.

  • @efnick96
    @efnick96 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey, great video, got a few ideas from it. Although I am using Klipper at the moment I am curious on how you has your touchscreen connected to skr 1.4T. Do you a diagram for the cable ? Thanks

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      There is a TFT output on the SKR board, just connect it to the screen with the existing white ribbon cable. Though you need to change the connector from a 2x4 dupont to a 1x4 in order to fit in the SKR board. I just got four dupont connectors from some breadboard jumper wires and jammed in a piece of paper next to them to make sure they don't fall out

  • @Ap0calips89
    @Ap0calips89 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great Video, describes exactly what i plan to do. Maybe you can go into your Marlin configuration with the Sidewinder in a separate video? :)

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you! I do have the config files included in the thingyverse link of the description. I'm not planning on a video, config files are so boring to talk about haha. I can advise you to look at the examples on the official Marlin page for the sidewinder and go from there if you want to reconfigure it yourself, or just use mine. Cheers!

  • @MightyGrave
    @MightyGrave 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    awesome Work :) I'll do the same. Only the firmware is what a struggle with atm.

  • @JC-pv9xd
    @JC-pv9xd 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey where did you get the led ring light? Also can you provide the arduinoncode?

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I used a neopixel ring with 12 LEDs, you can get them anywhere like aliexpress or a local electronics shop. Sorry for late response, don't receive notifications. Arduino code below:

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      #include <Arduino.h> #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h> #define NEO_CTRL_PIN 16 #define NUM_LEDS 12 Adafruit_NeoPixel strip(NUM_LEDS, NEO_CTRL_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); uint16_t hue_array[NUM_LEDS] = {0}; uint16_t hue_array_old[NUM_LEDS] = {0}; uint loop_time_ms = 10; uint cool_down_rate = 10; //hue integers per cycle float spark_chance = 0.3; //spark chance per second per pixel (0 to 1) uint hue_increase_on_spark = 2500; float intensity_spread_factor = 0.2; //spread factor in hue difference per second uint maxhue = UINT16_MAX/6; //corresponds to yellown (~11000) void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); strip.begin(); strip.setBrightness(128); strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off' } void loop() { delay(loop_time_ms); for(int i=0; i<NUM_LEDS; i++){ hue_array_old[i] = hue_array[i];//store last cycles hue values hue_array[i] -= cool_down_rate;//apply cooldown too the fire if(hue_array[i] > maxhue){//protect against buffer overflows hue_array[i] = 0; } float lhs = esp_random()/float(UINT32_MAX); float rhs = spark_chance*loop_time_ms/1000.0; if(lhs < rhs){//apply sparkchance hue_array[i] += hue_increase_on_spark; } //Serial.print(lhs);Serial.print("\t"); Serial.println(rhs); } for(int i=0; i<NUM_LEDS; i++){//check bounds if(hue_array[i] > maxhue){ hue_array[i] = maxhue; } } for(int i=0; i<NUM_LEDS; i++){//control the intensity spread int neighbour_diff = 0; if(i == 0){ neighbour_diff = hue_array_old[i+1]-hue_array_old[i]+hue_array_old[NUM_LEDS-1]-hue_array_old[i]; }else if(i == NUM_LEDS-1){ neighbour_diff = hue_array_old[0]-hue_array_old[i]+hue_array_old[i-1]-hue_array_old[i]; }else{ neighbour_diff = hue_array_old[i+1]-hue_array_old[i]+hue_array_old[i-1]-hue_array_old[i]; } hue_array[i] += neighbour_diff*(intensity_spread_factor*loop_time_ms/1000); uint32_t rgbcolor = strip.ColorHSV(hue_array[i], 255, 255); //convert hue value to RGB color strip.setPixelColor(i, rgbcolor); //update the pixel value } strip.show(); //push the colors to the neopixel ring }

    • @infernalbird2
      @infernalbird2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@LRS_maker sorry to bother you with this, but when i'm trying to upload this from arduino I can't find the esp_random declaration. Should that be in there too? Arduino isn't happy and keeps giving me an error

    • @LRS_maker
      @LRS_maker ปีที่แล้ว

      @@infernalbird2 no worries, I use an esp32 microcontroller, this is a board specific function. You can replace it with any other function that works on your micro, just google Arduino random function.

    • @infernalbird2
      @infernalbird2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@LRS_maker I got a spark fun red board, I figure it should work very similar? I'll have to watch some videos tonight.

  • @saulgaraylopez3976
    @saulgaraylopez3976 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    👏