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How do I get the clip back on the brake booster for the pedal

Thank you 😊😊😊😊😊😊

Just replaced my motor. This procedure worked like butter. Very simple. ThanX so much

Is that same solution ecotec 2.0 ?

I'm getting ready to do this for my daughter's car can you just cut back the original hose 3 inches take out that orifice or whatever it is and then reconnect it or do I have to buy a whole new hose

Heater core bypass at Autozone for $20, Done!

😂😅😅

if they keeps talking like this he's going to get himself blown up

Replaced engine but did not do this i just added coolant to the reservoir but only took probably half a jugg , could this be causing it to overheat looks like coolant isnt moving at all?

2012 v6 Two months back I got a misfire for cylinder 3 , took everything off then notice the coils have blew off …. Ok then replaced the coils now getting cylinder 1 & 3 🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️

by the looks of ur engine my broder , in my opinion, is by all the slugge in ur gine they def didnt keep up to the ecotech specs bc these require a lot of oil changes so the inside dont look like that. we deny all engines loooking like that from the inside. only 3000 oil changes ecotechs

Kamote k. MORE talking no Doing

I wonder if the 1st gen mazdas have rhis too?

Nice tes Mr God bless you

De dónde comienza el orden de las bobinas?

how do you do a fuel pressure test on these cars? t fitting on the hoses at the rail?

Thanks

Thank you !! Great info

I only ask because every time I do an oil change I cannot reset the oil light in my oil light shows that my oil is low but it's not. My reset button for the trip odometer does not work when I press it so I'm guessing the cluster behind it is messed up

Will this pretty much be the same concept as a 2007 Subaru Forester?

WOW.. what a cluster Fook!! hahaha .,, BUT .. i gotta say,, excellent video.. you moved thru the whole thing/steps really well,,, kudos to ya!! peace!😎

can i just bring my car to you? this pump situation is killing me...

You are awesome!! Yes do the thermostat while in there. They do fail and its a pain doing it the other way. I also really appreciate you latest video on this car. Removing that restrictor valve is money. This designed failure Ford made is a PITA. I am on my 3rd pump and 2nd resivior. Did the new high pressure line. The white teflon orings Edlemann part # 70005 i bought in bulk online along with the brass install tool Edelmann part # 70016. It worked very well as i tried alot of different tricks. I used a little heat to help it shrink back down once it was installed. After it cooled it shrunk down nice. I then used a mirror and watched as i tightened it down and manipulated it with a curved pick to help it find its home as i slowly worked the line tight. I then snugged it down really well with a 18mm line wrench. Holding vacuum very well. I then bled it in the same manner as your latest video. Mutiple times. Stated the car with someones help and kept the resivior topped off. So far no leaks.🙏

Where is the fuel pump relay for this car ??

Pm

Man you are the guy! Everyone wants to make this hard including me instead of just removing the shaft and making shit easy. Wish u were near va id pay u to do it 😭

In modern cars and trucks (post 1981) it should be noted that all hex screws, nuts, and bolts are Metric. Some SAE sockets and wrenches will fit and work fine, but are not exactly the right fit.

Worked like a champ, just helped the neighbor do his in the driveway.

Confused on why he did extra and damage the wires on purpose

Ford Sucks!

could it also be the fuel pump driver controle module causing it

Could this be common issue with #2 cylinder? Same symptoms.

So the fuel doesn't stay in the fuel rail overnight I'm having a similar issue I changed the spark plug and coil pack and the cylinder 6 still says misfire so I was wondering if it was a fuel injector and I went and checked overnight in the morning and there was no fuel squirting out the Schrader valve when I clicked it

Nice video well explained just one thing you supposed to pull the heater core out

Where and how do I remove that restrictor valve or on the return line??

I wish this wasn't an after the fact video. All the talk talk talk, is fine, but its cheaper. Than us visually seeing this. I love your ending QUOTE. as we all agree. The engineering on this stuff is absolutely bonkers. A Volvo Heater core is so easily accessible that its a boop in and out issue. SO WHY IN THE WORLD are any of these things buried so deeply. Its equivalent to a hypothetical alt reality, where Radiators would be inside the engine. WHY DOES ANYONE design any COOLING/HEATING elements into any hard to reach places. WE STILL HAVE TO ASK YOU THO!? WHY DIDN"T YOU SHOW US THE ACTUAL CUTS AND INSTALL PROCESS? You just happened to congratulate yourself after it was back in, enough to make a video? LOL Don't answer that.

All you had to say at the beginning is "engineer's" I'm done!

Thanks so much! I wish I had seen your suggestion before I had went way down the road of trying to take the hvac unit all the way out. Once I saw this, I went this route, and was back together driving it in 1/2 the time. This dudes pretty smart, if you are facing this challenge, I suggest you take his advice, and do it "his way."

When I changed the coil on my 04 TJ, I loosened the dash with the steering in place. Then, I jammed a Grainger catalog between the dash and the windshield. It was enough room to pull it out and replace it. I never had to pull the steering or disconnect airbags. It also gave me a chance to take the AC evap out of the heater control box.

We’re is cylinder’s 6 I waited till the end

The day mine goes bad is the day it gets bypassed as that's a ridiculous amount of work and winters aren't too bad here as a plug-in 12 volt heater will work fine. Another year or so and the car will likely be in the junkyard.

I just completed the Timing Chain replacement on a 2012 Malibu 2.4 Engine a couple days ago. I am a moderate level self taught mechanic but this engine was the first time I did work on one. But I observe very well and found the following things out during the process of repairing it. This job is NOT for a Novice Mechanic because of the skill level, it is a bit more intensive than a simple repair. I took the time to type this all out, so you could understand why it happened in the first place. This issue becomes more common, once you have 100 K miles or more on the car. This engine is real fussy about Clean oil and the right Viscosity, so if you are behind on Oil Changes, you are doing harm to the engine. Before you go into a tear down mode, Remove the 2 Cam Sensors on top the Valve cover and notice if they are filthy and plugged up with Gunk. If so, you haven't been changing the correct oil often enough, shame on you ! LOL ! Clean the Sensors real good, using Carb Cleaner and check the Electrical readings with a VOM. Look on TH-cam for how to check them out. Reinstall them and reset the codes and see if that was the issue. Otherwise, get ready for more serious work you are about to do. What I can tell you is that the chain did skip over the Cam Sprocket teeth, to trigger Coded P0016 and P0017. What those codes means Is that the Crank Sprocket and the 2 Cam Sprockets are now in disagreement and the engine is out of correct timing. Continuing to run the car in this condition will likely have it jump again and that's where you can get into serious trouble because on an Interference engine. You can usually tell when this is happening just by the poor performance of the engine, besides the codes showing up.Valves and pistons will eventually smack each other and cause catastrophic damage to both. Why this happens starts off as the Chain Guide and Tensioner Guide become worn down, which causes slack in the chain.Then, with a Hard down shift while driving, that will be enough force for the chain to jump the teeth on one of the Cam Sprockets.The Tensioner can only apply so much force to try and take up the slack but the guides are so worn down that the tensioner can't offer enough tension to take up the slack. Upon disassembly, you will also likely find the Guide in the front of the engine will be in 2 or 3 pieces. If you can't find the pieces they have dropped into the oil pan. Don't be overly concerned if you have this situation, the pick up screen on the oil pump will be enough to stop them and not block oil flow to the pump. Pay attention to the Teeth on all the Sprockets, mine showed wear, mostly from the Timing Chain skipping over the teeth. They were scuffed up on the sides of the teeth. Since this is a labor intensive job (Likely 4 hours or more for most people), I decided to replace ALL of the Sprockets, both Cam and Crank sprockets. I wasn't going to chance doing this job twice ! So what parts I did replace are these. Cam Sprockets, Crank Sprocket, Timing Chain, Guides, Tensioner and the Oil Jet which is a small Black plastic piece, Timing Cover Gasket. On top the engine, Valve Cover Gasket which include the Gasket around Spark Plug Coil Packets. What unusual tools you will need is a 32 mm Socket, a 24 mm Open End wrench, a Gear Puller to remove Crank Shaft pulley, a Floor Jack and a block of wood to support the engine and you will re removing the Passenger side Motor mount along with the Serpentine Belt. Note, you will likely need an Air Gun to remove Crank Shat Pulley Bolt, they are pretty hard to remove without the engine turning over.You will need a Torgue wrench for several bolts on install too. I hope all of this makes some sense to you and offers some assistance. Good Luck !!

What you are calling bolts, the rest of the world calls nuts. Bolts, studs and nuts are three different things

Thankyou just did mine took about 4 hours working slowly! Works great now , I added some coolant and located bleeding screw took 5 min and turned heat up while car was on !

Thankyou !

Welp ima just let it stink n leak

Looks like I'm trading my car in

Where u get that part so cheap ?

It is helpful to give the vehicle year

I do them in 5 hours the right way pulling the dash out