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You're welcome, and thank you for watching!

If you are asking if it's ok to replace a 105°C 300v cap with a 70°C 250v capacitor, I'd say no... as the temp rating is not as sturdy as the original. The 250v vs. 300v would be ok if it's US 120v powered, but not if Euro (220-230v) power. For temp and voltage, the replacement must have ratings that are equal to or exceed the original ratings, do not use if either rating is less than the original.

Nice. Once modified, it really does make it quick and easy. Thanks for watching!

Great tip, thanks for watching!

Thanks for the info, and for watching!

Thanks for watching!

It does take some work, and it comes with risk to be sure! Thanks for watching, and I hoped it helped.

What do you mean with the battery only lasted 5 years? Did it just stop working completely or suddenly drained way too quickly? Or did it just come to a point where it charged to an unacceptable power level? My s10 of over 5 years is doing just fine. The battery has surely degraded a lot but it's not at a point where I need to keep it near a charger all the time.

@@Rayer24 I can add that as mentioned in another post that of the two S10e's that I purchased together, one developed battery issues only a few years into operation, and the other is still working perfectly years after the first one failed. These phones are used and charged under nearly identical situations, yet the lifespan was nowhere near the same. I think it speaks to the large variability in battery quality used in these phones, and that as nice as Li-ion is as a battery chemistry, we still have a way to go when it comes to lot to lot quality and reliability. Thanks for watching!

@@Rayer24 The capacity of the battery was noticeably reduced. When I removed the the OEM battery it was swollen.

Yeah, the color codes are not always the same. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

There can be too much grease in a bearing (over and under lube are both problems for different reasons). In this case I did check, and the bearings had an adequate amount of grease so I did not add more, which would have led to an over-packed bearing. Thanks for watching!

Lol! Thanks for watching.

Mine were pretty snug as is once clamped in, but it couldn't hurt. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, and thank you for watching!

I did not, however this phone in actual use beside it's twin (we have 2) with the stock battery still shows no discernable difference in capacity, even under heavy use... we have been very pleased with it. Thanks for watching!

The previous commenter stated "used large channel lock wrench to hold inner ring", which would work fine, as well as simply using a vise (gently) to hold while removing nut. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

I'm glad it helped, and btw, the next video shows you how to repair that head if you wanted a spare. Thanks for watching!

Be safe, wear PPE, and secure to something before you drill if at all possible. Thanks for watching!

I found mine at Amazon, under a vendor called HQRP. Just look for "ceiling fan capacitor" under this vendor or just a general Amazon search, and you'll find a ton of choices. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@halfmoontechlabs Thank you for this information, I also have looked on Amazon. The HQRP supplier is a good source. However, I have 2 separate capacitors with different uF ratings. One cap is prob START the other is RUN. I have not been able to find a 2 wire [red wire and white wire] rated at 4uF with or a 3 wire [brown, purple gray wires] with 6uF ratings. I see a lot of capacitors with 5 wires but don't think i should try to use on of them. So basically I am at a loss.

@@roydunham3384 Sometimes if the there are say, 2 black wires, they can be in fact the same common wire, just internally connected to allow for ease of installation. I can't directly exchange advice or emails with viewers on electrical questions, so I recommend taking the fan or it's capacitors to a local hardware store (a real hardware store) and ask them in person, as they should have someone knowledgeable with electrical on staff. Or, pay the vendor you contacted the $25 plus shipping if you get stuck. Good luck, and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

Watch my very next video, where I cover this exact topic. Thanks for watching!

@@halfmoontechlabs Thank you so much! :)

Thanks for watching!

Lol, you saw that, huh? Yeah, but got it done nonetheless... Thanks for the laugh, and for watching!

Eeek!, Yeah, careful there, and thanks for watching!

Good for you! lol. Overkill is what I do ;)

It really is easy if you're even moderately handy with tools, and well worth the effort to save future expense IMO. Thanks for the comment, and the support!

It drove me nuts too, and figured I'd share my results. Thanks for watching!

It really is thin on that part of the head, where it takes the hardest damage. Thanks for the watching, and the additional info on your solution!

I appreciate it, and thanks for watching!

That's one way to get it in there quick. Thanks for watching!

You are quite welcome, and thanks for watching!

I couldn't agree more... Thanks for your comment, and for watching!

I'm glad I got to see this one

You're welcome, and thanks for watching!

I'm glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!

Thanks! No, not yet, but when and if I do, I'll make a vid of that process as well. Thanks for watching!

Though I agree that high voltage spikes are more commonly the cause (via perforation of dielectric, leading to internal short), another common cause is excessive heat, especially as caps age and the ESR starts to rise. LOW voltage for excessive periods (especially on highly inductive loads, like a motor) can cause heating (remember power is I²R), because the current spikes abnormally high from continually trying to turn a reluctant motor... power rises, and then the heat, and again, poof goes the cap. Many ways to cook a capacitor, but your point is taken ;) Thanks for watching, and for the comment!

@@halfmoontechlabs certainly, I replaced a cap on a ceiling fan that was beginning to slow down, only had medium-medium-low and was quite noisy too.

Glad you liked it, and thanks for watching!

Glad it helped, thanks for watching!

Still loving mine, good luck, and thanks for watching!

I did approach one neighbor a while back (who has a couple of great trees, including one that would allow me to upgrade to a 160-OCF, which I REALLY wanted to put up, but he was obviously not in favor even though it's on the back of his property, and out of view... but it's his yard, and so I respect the decision. So an 80-OCF dipole it is. I lucked out, as the former neighbor behind me years ago saw me struggling in the back yard trying to find a fit, and out of curiosity, she asked what all that "stuff" is for. So I went into ham radio ambassador mode, explained the hobby, the public service angle, and that as an FCC licensed operation, it comes with rules for safety, interference, etc... She then asked me "would it help if you could tie off one end to my tree in back that faces your property?" I said yes it would, but I was hesitant to ask, as people are usually either suspicious about the safety aspect, or just don't understand the hobby at all, and defer to "No" out of an abundance of caution. So up it went! Then they moved, and I decided to be proactive and reach out to the new owners "Welcome to the neighborhood, and oh... let me explain that wire in the tree way in the back". They were super cool, and said no problem, steady as she goes... SO if there is a moral to the story, I guess there is no shame in asking, but be prepared for a no, and keep a smile on... because sometimes people will pleasantly surprise you. And you can always go vertical... ugh. Thanks for watching, and for the question!

@@halfmoontechlabs Thanks....! Yeah, I just moved into a new place...fairly decent backyard but no trees high enough to do anything with, There are two neighbors behind me with the tress I want! Trying to build up the courage to just go over and ask. The most they can say is no....I get that! Hoping to the contrary! Plans already in the works for a GAP vertical soon and later to put up my 50' Universal with a 3 element beam. I thought at least if I could get a wire antenna up, that would get me on the air. BTW, if you don't mind, where did you get the canon? 73, K9ALT

@@cannong1728 Check out my other vids, one shows exactly how I built my air cannon! On the neighbor talk thing, another approach is to talk up how the wire is barely visible to invisible depending on situation, and that if you can't find a workable solution, then "I guess I'll have no choice but to put up a tower... I'd rather not, but I'm running out of options", lol. Let them do the math on which they would rather look at ;) Good luck!

To be honest, I've heard of it, but have no data at my fingertips on what works, doesn't work, or recommended combinations that are proven winners. Like most lubrication scenarios, it will be application-specific as to what combinations are most effective. Google will have to be your friend on this one ;) Thanks for watching!

@@halfmoontechlabs You're welcome. I'm thinking primarily of loose cup and cone bicycle bearings.

Yes it is, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for comment, and for watching!

Good to know, and thanks for watching and commenting!

Most are 24vac, but the coil can be fired momentarily with DC as well, it just requires a lower voltage... hence the 9 to 18 vdc requirement when using an ac valve. Thanks for watching!

The lengths are customizable for your purpose, but as mentioned in "Bill of Materials" section of video (chapters are marked) for my build, approx 5 feet of 2" PVC for "tank" which is on bottom, and approx 5 feet of 1-1/4" PVC for actual barrel as well. Firing circuit is a simple series circuit, in other words the circuit that I built goes from 9v battery through 2 switches in parallel (one a toggle, one a momentary pushbutton) to one valve wire. Last, the second valve wire goes back to second terminal of 9v battery, completing the series circuit loop. Some valves are finicky and want slightly more than 9v. If that's the case, then use two 9v in series. Note that this smaller 9 or 18 volts DC pulse is all you will need to fire a 24v sprinkler valve coil normally intended for AC use. Thanks for watching!

The nice thing about greasing your own bearings is that you can decide what grease to put in based on the service requirements. Wheel bearing grease would be fine for some types of service (such as wheels, lol), but you can pick the bearing grease based on the type of perils that your device may be subjected to. Need more heat resistance? Need something that can operate submerged? High RPM? Extremely cold duty? Pick the type that is optimal for your type of use. Good luck, and thanks for watching!