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@@SubZero-vh3wp front to back? About 17 1/2 inches but you can customize it to your liking, in description I have link to pictures I uploaded showing cutout measurements

@@CSWSTHEHUSTLE sent it to 2wheels Dynowork, they did a good job at it and was a very simple process of mailing it to them and got it back pretty much within a week

@FlashedNinja how much did it run you if you don't mind me asking and thanks for the responses

@@CSWSTHEHUSTLE the cost for the ECU flashing? $300 plus shipping cost since I had to ship it myself which was only $8 when I did. So total about $330-ish overall. The cost does change depending on different bikes but for the ninja 650 that's what I paid.

@FlashedNinja I have a 2012 ninja 650 with aftermarket exhaust headers back, been thinking hard about doing a ecu flash and then got stumped: full exhaust, o2 plug cap already installed and no check engine light, maybe it's been flashed already?

@@CSWSTHEHUSTLE previous owners on the bike? If so then it's possible though not sure on the older model if a light would flash for O2 sensor capped, it wouldn't come on if you swap your exhaust or headers. Give it a good check on anything else mod wise but possible it's been flashed but who knows by who as it could have been flashed for performance or other things. If it's riding well without issues or spark plugs not showing signs of lean or too rich then I would leave it as is and would only send to get flashed if there are some rideability issues or it's running off.

First you should look up service manual maintenance schedule, if the bike is "new" to you and even with 650 miles it being a 2020 year model being 4-5ish years now any fluids you haven't regularly done will need to be changed out for better peace of mind. Brake fluid intervals is every 15k miles or every 2 years, coolant and hose inspect or change at about 22k miles or every 3 years mainly the fluids the hoses if they are still good should be fine can be checked back again at 22k miles, check clutch cables and Freeplay, inspect brake hoses and brake parts (manual says change every "4 years" but nothing to worry about if they are still good they don't go bad that easily unless your beating the cables or something lol),

Also for the throttle body they only inspect if they are synced at the first service, they would only do work on it if it came out of factory off sync, throttle body is faulty but other than that you won't need to worry about it until 7.6k miles

@@FlashedNinja I've kept the bike in a heated dehumidified garage always. I'd like to finish out the season with all those fluids though and leave those jobs for the winter 😅 but thank you for the reply. I do have the service manual I just wanted to know the absolute necessary items for now. I'll inspect the hoses, cables, and such. I did buy this bike brand new at the end of 2020.

@@steelemoto4190 pretty sure with those conditions most rubber components would be good but still better safe to just inspect them. I would mainly worry about the fluid for coolant the brake since you already regularly change the oil. Component wise focus more on the brake and inspect the hoses and parts as they can slowly deteriorate from the brake fluids since it's a bit of a harsh chemical. For the coolant just give the hoses a squeeze and slight bend with just your hand, it shouldn't be stiff and should be able to have a slight squish when squeeze and no cracks or tears should be noticed when doing so. Other than that I say you should be golden for the season if you intend to change anything til winter coolant isn't going to cause issues unless your bike getting hot, brake fluid will still work just fine just test a hard brake to make sure it will do its job in emergencies.

@@FlashedNinja Yeah I'll probably need to add coolant to the overflow reservoir I'm sure. But I will definitely do the brake fluid change and coolant flush come fall! I have ridden it and the brakes feel very solid. Thanks man!

Yo check the video description I have a link if you look further down to the necessary pages from the service manual you need to do any of this work. It should have all the info including torque spec 👍🏻.

@@FlashedNinja Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!

I do not own the bike it was part of a demo ride event but yes it does have quick shift option

Right where I put that plug at 1:14:25 mark. You basically want to block any flow between that hole to the AIS some people use an actual marble others use rubber plugs or anything similar to what I put. Also at 48:28 you can see a better view of the location of where that spot is as I remove the air box.

@@FlashedNinja hey what torque spec did you use for your bike? And if not how did you torque both to same, just off of feel? I’m trying to get my bike done tomorrow and watching this video over and over trying to prepare for the sparkplugs as I can’t find torque specs anywhere

@@Shif77yy the spark plugs will just need to be tightened normally no need to apply much force, you want them to be tight enough to stay on but be able to remove them without trouble 👍🏻

@@FlashedNinja i dont have much experience with what mechanics call “feel” pretty new to mechanical work especially on my own stuff i think i found a torque spec close enough to it at 11 ft lbs but that is for a 2019 z650 it could fill the gap of knowledge i cant find. What do you think about that torque, does it seem like too much?

@@Shif77yy no worries gotta start somewhere and yeah that sounds about right, as for feel basically when you get to undoing the spark plug I guess a close feel you could closely resemble would be to opening a new jar of jelly. And tightening it should be the reverse of that feel hopefully that makes sense and helps.

No tank was about quarter empty, I basically rode it for the past few days. It is kinda heavier with a full tank, and once you start unplugging stuff off the tank the fuel won't spill out. So no need to drain but I do suggest removing the tank when quarter or less fuel in the tank for easier handling.

@FlashedNinja Thanks friend. The service manual says to "Draw the fuel out from the fuel tank with a commercially available pump" but that seemed a bit much.

@@LMoney4 yeah but on looking at multiple videos on removing the fuel tank many people seem to just take it off with fuel still in it, I was skeptical about it but seems to just work. You will at least want a small block of wood to put under to keep the main plug lifted up from touching the ground or table.

If you have a stock air filter tune not exactly necessary you can go without a tune but you could get a tune if you wanted to but it isn't absolutely necessary. Only if you get an aftermarket air filter that is more high flow than the stock one you is when you will want a tune.

No problem man! Glad it's useful for a lot of people. Also 2014 US models uses an open loop rather than a closed loop system, basically instead of relying on an O2 sensor to fix the air/fuel ratio it mainly relies on its system table chart based on Temp and rpm range or at least that's my understanding. With stock exhaust and OEM air filter it will have a low air high fuel ratio I would only guess when I thought they ran lean out the factory unless there was a previous owner and didn't mention any mods done to it. You would only find out if your exhaust is leaking anything or when you get around to changing the spark plugs if they look covered in a good amount of soot then it's running rich if it's just a minor amount and exhaust isn't leaking anything should be fairly normal tad rich but nothing worrying. If you're installing an aftermarket filter it could help decrease the richness but with the stock exhaust it may still not do too much I forget what effects doing what does 😅. Best of luck ride safe ✌🏻 side note the way you ride it can also affect air/fuel aggressive riding can make your bike run a bit extra rich as the ECU is literally fighting for it's dear life making calculation for every dramatic change in riding.

The aluminum spacer between the mid pipe and the exhaust? That came with the exhaust I got in the link I provided but if you buy the exhaust from another place you may want to see if they include it otherwise it will be a separate item to buy.

Yeah right in the description but if it no longer works I'll update it later

I knew I forgot to update something to this video... a.aliexpress.com/_msiCBJ6

how did it go. i want to do it myself, but im scared

@antoniobaak146 it was actually very simple but lots of bolts. I would recommend giving yourself a good full day and take it slow. Label / bag everything as you go and you'll be fine.

@@blindlightn650 thanks for the quick reply! are there alot of different sized bolts that u need different tools or are they mostly the same?

@antoniobaak146 you should have had a tool kit when you got the bike, but even if you didn't it was all standard Allen key sizes to get bolts off. Do yourself a favour aswell, use a marker pen to put a mark on the bolt (and something non permanent like tippex on the fairings) so you can tighten it back up to exactly where it was from the factory. I also used some masking tape to stick each bolt on top of where it came from so I didn't have lots of bags with bolts lying around everywhere. Worked a treat.

I haven't been able to shoot for a good while but I think i remember someone asking same question and looking into it and they say no due to the tip not being reinforced to handle it but there were some forums saying reinforcing the tip with padding (didn't find out what type or how exactly to reinforce it) would allow it to use fast flight but you will start to see degrading in the shots over time and possible delamination. I never upgraded the bow any further than how it came when i brought it just the usual wax maintenance on the strings, tightening the limb bolts over time if i don't unstring the bow and some better gear for myself last time i used it, it still shot as good as it did new though the limbs flex a bit more now and might be overdue for new drawstring.

To be honest pretty darn good this is probably real carbon fiber probably cheaply made but also well made if that makes sense 😂 i keep meaning to upload an update but stuff keeps getting in the way i may just re-record the update to include any wear and tear on the exhaust but all in all it's still pretty good for a knock off

Thanks I now know what blipping the throttle is lol 😂 also i no longer have this bike but can definitely say that year model didn't have traction control i think they did add it to the newest models but i forget. Honestly the way the bike handles it's pretty forgiving you don't really need it but probably more for fresh riders with no prior experience. I come from dirt bike riding aside the blipping i definitely knew how to control the throttle from flying out of me lol.

So there are two ways that works since not all stem mount and bolts are created equally. For the first, what you want to do before you install it into the stem, get a washer (preferably rubber but any washer is fine) that fits over the stem mount to be able to raise it up to tighten to the lipped part of the stem bolt. Tighten the cylindrical screw until it snuggly fits the insert in the stem and tighten until it stops rotating. The other option requires removing the stem bolt, a thick rubber shim or rubber tube to stick to the inside part of the stem bolt that will make it enough to just insert the stem mount as normal and tighten everything as you normally would. The stem bolt isn't uniform and has an inner lip so the stem mount doesn't have enough room to tighten completely since part is tightening on the lip while the other part is trying to tighten on any surface it can so adding the shim or tune will make sure it is tightening on all available surface. There is a third option but that requires buying another stem mount since quad lock also sells a "pro" version which seems to have a "slightly" longer stem insert giving you that extra gap to allow the mount to tighten completely.

Now that's what I call high quality H2O.

I guess "im a new rider don't expect anything" doesn't mean anything... Anyways yeah i rewatch this video from time to time definitely not my best plus I've sort of improved more now compared to when i did this one 😂

@@FlashedNinja was just saying not trynna be a dick bag.

Honestly still running strong and sounds the same as it did first time, i guess it's a hit or miss with most clones but this particular clone is pretty well built and everything is still all solid. No rusting, no parts melting/chipping or the usual wear and tears of clone exhausts. I'll be uploading a video sometime soon of a 1 year checkup, and sound test with and without the db killer. I will say the only thing that did break was the db killer 😂 it flew off at some point a few months ago. The screw and the thread for the db killer isn't a good match so it loosened up even after putting thread lock on it so it wouldn't come off but not an issue for me.

@@FlashedNinja nice ! Thnx for the update

You are correct it is mainly for Dyno and for racing. The other reason is not major but it reduces decel pops, and removing the AIS helps the engine run slightly cooler and the bike runs smoother since it's not introducing extra oxygen to burn off any unburnt fuel. The legality only depends on where you live and you should check what laws say about it in your area but most of us still do this regardless 🤷🏻‍♂️ not exactly a full explanation and maybe someone will pop in to give a proper explanation 😜 but hope that helps

It's a quad lock with stem mount, i have a link in the description for it, they work on most sport bike but on the ninja 650 their website doesn't recommend it but with a little finesse it certainly fits 😂

It's mph

I'm following the service manual periodic maintenance i was right at 7.8k just 200 miles over the schedule for the spark plugs and besides what you see on the video i did all the usual changes needed, all except for the air filter it still had a good 4-5k miles before change but due to whoever the previous owner was it was pretty dirty so i changed it early along with what i did in video. Hope that helps, i usually try to do everything as scheduled on the service manual.

For certain it's leaking from the hose and not where it connects to? I would check for any possible leaks from the connections of the hoses to save you the trouble of buying and replacing it, but if it is a hole or cut at the hose then yeah, that could also be while temps could be hot

I'm not sure if the guy you got it from did anything else besides the custom exhaust but i would find a day to pretty much inspect the bike thoroughly in case he had some mods he left in or or took out of it and the ecu was previously flashed poorly or something. If you have one check up your service manual. If not i have a link to one i used.

The gasket of the pipe at the engine? I'm not sure I think that would cause exhaust leak right at the engine meaning you're kind of shooting the heat back at it

The block off plate doesn't give it a major difference until you get it flashed it isn't anything grand but once it was flashed it popped less than usual. Some tuners know how to either stop the pops or make it a certain amount, the temp also changes due to the flash they change the timing of the fan to help keep it cool. Another thing you could do but is just like a 2-3° difference I'm no expert on it but blue ice coolant. Other than that 215° us pretty normal temps i think above 225-230 is when it's really hot and anything more is overheating temps. What are you trying to get out of these? I was aiming for better mileages and cooler running temps and just a little pops here and there.

@@FlashedNinja I really love the pops lowkey...A better mileage for sure, since i installed the o2 sensor and the check light came off the gas mileage reads better... a cooler temp would be better since my bike has the fairings i would like to feel the heat less, coupled with the Florida weather it just crazy hot. I feel like it gets super hot and boils so much that the coolant is trying to find way to spill out so it end up coming out the hose. I only noticed this after riding for 2Hrs straight on the Interstate and coming to a stop.

@@FlashedNinja My next goal will be to flash the ECU from Mooremafia or 2wheeldyno. and lastly if all fails, just run distilled water since i live in Florida

I'd say the comfort is pretty fair definitely good for a max of 1-2 hour ride for passenger depending on how picky they are about seat comfort. 😂 A whole lot better than my zx6r for sure, but other than that it's fairly comfortable for passenger. She definitely preferred the seat of the versys 1000 that thing was a couch for both rider and passenger.

I had kept it on right until i got the ecu flashed so i wouldn't get the engine light on it they disabled it

@@FlashedNinja Okay so the O2 that get screwed in to the Exhaust was still on even after the ECU flash then?. Also referring back to Block off plates installation video, I should go ahead and install a resistor, since i wont be flashing my ECU any time soon? ....I got the BLOCK OFF PLATES DNA AIRFILTER SPARK PLUG and about ready to install them

No after i got the ecu flashed i removed it entirely and just used a plug bolt to close it off. And yeah a resistor will need to be done so you are not getting engine light on until you get the ecu flashed.

@@FlashedNinja In the event i get the ECU flashed, do i take off the resistor or just leave it there?

@@XJENERAL you can leave it there but they usually disable that too so you can remove it or leave it, i left it cause i didn't want to open the whole thing back up just to unplug it lol

You can flash either version 👍🏻 i just put that in title just for anyone asking which one i had

The AIS is just emission standard stuff no benefits in blocking it except just reduces the deccel popping and also for better readings if you take it to get Dyno tuned, and yeah i forgot to remove it 😅 ended up taking it all apart again learned my lesson to test before bolting everything back on 😂

It's kind of hard getting it as they seem to be going out of stock pretty quick and it's usually limited stock. Mine came with it when I brought it used but i would try RevZilla or cycle gear or any site you normally buy at and just keep eye out.

Combined me and my wife are a good 370lb and the bike seems to ride off pretty good not much struggle, unless you are taking off at a higher gear or from a slow speed going up a climb but like taking highways or higher speed roads it rides fine no issues. The only other thing was the tank is a bit slim and is hard getting a good grip with your legs to hold yourself when coming to stops. Other than that the seating for both of us is perfect not a touring bike but more comfortable than my current zx6r and the seat height makes it easy to bring both feet down when stopping or balancing, and for reference I'm 5'9".

@@FlashedNinja 5’6” I can also flat foot this bike I have a 29-30.5”inseam, so be being smaller I think this bike will fit me more. But I was also looking at a z900 but it’s much more aggressive especially for the passenger on 2Up.

@@Illness.og. if you like the z900 you'll probably want the z900rs that has that old school look the seating is a bit more comfortable for 2-up but the z650 is also perfect

@@FlashedNinja z900rs I sat on once, it’s freakin tall lol! But yes you are correct the z650 might be much better for 2 up since the z900 is way more aggressive the passenger sits almost like joe my girl does on my ninja. Which me being short does help her either.